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Blu is ......uh... A Chatty Cathy ..... A Conversationalist ..... Loquacious ..... Talky and Loose-Lipped
(I Jest)
Speaking of drip tips. I still have a Blued Velocity snub nose that I would love to trade for a Blued Velocity standard size if anyone is interested. 
ShockWaves are now adopted members of our families. Living the good life, not much to say to the public.
What we ought to do is at some coordinated time and date all post massive pictures and massive amounts of them to the "Show your setup" thread flashmob style.
What we ought to do is at some coordinated time and date all post massive pictures and massive amounts of them to the "Show your setup" thread flashmob style.
Having problems mounting my Kayfun on the Shockwave. Looking for a way to get some Noalox. Other than that, Shockwave:
- hits harder than any mech I've tried to date, including the ELA (although ELA isn't far behind)
- has the best quality side button I've used to date
- has the best thought-through and machined master switch I've tried to date
- is small and lightweight considering its default battery size
What else is there to say?
- hits harder than any mech I've tried to date, including the ELA (although ELA isn't far behind)
- has the best quality side button I've used to date
- has the best thought-through and machined master switch I've tried to date
- is small and lightweight considering its default battery size
What else is there to say?
Quick question .... the edges of my "T" and the ring around it with the notches, on the bottom switch, are a little sharp. They hurt my fingers when I am adjusting it, and wondered if anyone filed theirs a bit? Maybe fine steel wool rubbed a bit?
And should I take the "T" off to do it? I don't want to end up scuffing everything in sight.
And should I take the "T" off to do it? I don't want to end up scuffing everything in sight.
Quick question .... the edges of my "T" and the ring around it with the notches, on the bottom switch, are a little sharp. They hurt my fingers when I am adjusting it, and wondered if anyone filed theirs a bit? Maybe fine steel wool rubbed a bit?
And should I take the "T" off to do it? I don't want to end up scuffing everything in sight.
Sharp? Its a 45 degree angled edge, but not sharp enough to cut you.....I would never put a file to mine
Not sure about yours .... mine is sharp ..... never mind, I'll take care of it.
Maybe a little bit of wadded up stainless steel mesh. I saw Imeo recommend it for a gentle way of cleaning contacts, I tried it and it worked well. I think the T switch might be aluminum so it probably wouldn't take much work.
Happened to me too, once. I was just patient and finally got it loose. What has probably happened is that the flat upper surface of the power switch is binding against the flat machined surface on the interior of the body. If you visualize that and realize it's not a matter of cross threading, all you need it to do is break loose and you're good.
Maybe squirt a bit of oil (non-smelly) between the switch and body and allow it to sit a bit.
Like I said, it came loose for me, but David said that if all else failed he'd take care of it.
Maybe squirt a bit of oil (non-smelly) between the switch and body and allow it to sit a bit.
Like I said, it came loose for me, but David said that if all else failed he'd take care of it.
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