The Trustfire is significantly longer, both visually and in the mod. But inspecting the ShockWave, I'm not sure how the length could cause any problems. It's a little difficult to describe - the battery (any battery) slides into the tube and rests on an o-ring which in turn sits on a hard ledge machined into the tube, much like a P+. The battery can't extend downward beyond that no matter its length, the extra is accounted for by the spring plunger in the top cap. The bottom post/switch apparently screws into that ledge and the ratcheting slots provide feedback and location position for when the post makes/removes contact at the battery's negative. That actually shouldn't vary that much from battery to battery since the battery length is accounted for by the top plunger. The thickness of the battery *wrap* is probably more of a factor here.
That said, all I know is when I tried that dud TrustFire and was cranking like mad and such, afterwards my switch had a severe problem. Regardless of what battery you use, remember that the bottom post merely needs to make contact. There is no need to crank it hard OR unscrew it far when changing batteries, and the only time I've found that an extra tight crank might be necessary is when you're using a Kick. That dang Kick *always* likes an inordinately tight connection.
Correct, The different length batteries are accounted for with the spring plunger which makes up for varying length.
Also correct, The master on/off switch can't come out on its own and can't be pushed out or loosened by the battery, regardless of type of battery, as the bottoms of the batteries all sit at the same height and are pushed down against the bottom with the spring plunger on top.
With the 5000mah trustfire or IMR battery, when the master on/off switch is "level" with the bottom of the mod, that is usually in the off position (just press the fire button to determine if the power is disconnected, if not, turn it one click(each click is a 1/4 turn) at a time counter clockwise until the atomizer won't fire). To turn back on, just turn it clockwise a click at a time (each click is a 1/4 turn) until it will fire when depressing the switch.
To get the master on/off switch to come completely out and free of the mod, one needs to crank it approximately 2 FULL turns past the off position for it to come out, so if you have it come out, it's just a case of turning it way father then it needs to be turned to turn it off. The battery can't force it out or make it turn out, so no worries.
Working on the video now and should have it up shortly.
Trust me, don't overthink it. It's a very simple mechanism. It just rachets up and rachets down, thats all there is to it.
this weekend Shockwave Bump....
