I warped mine taking it out and it became too tight. I gave your method a shot to get it back in shape and it has helped - thanks a bunch
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I warped mine taking it out and it became too tight. I gave your method a shot to get it back in shape and it has helped - thanks a bunch
Yeah, my daily use ELA (blued rings) must have gotten tightened down hard one too many times. It frequently slips until I put the Kung Fu grip on it and twist with the power of my Gi. 
But keep in mind that I've had mine since June.
Needless to say, I need to purchase some of those spare aluminum rings.
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But keep in mind that I've had mine since June. Needless to say, I need to purchase some of those spare aluminum rings.
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I was thinking since many like myself dont want to warp our inner locking ring, if maybe using a water pik or other such power spray might help to keep it clean without taking the chance of messing up our aluminum ring? I think I might have a water pik around and give it a try.
With the recent announcement of another run of ELAs in the new year, I thought Id recommend that if you plan to use your ELA in 18650 mode to get the extension tube. Though it will work with the reg tube it adds more stability to the device even if you dont plan on using it with a a kick or crown.
I will have to try the extension tube. Never played with it yet. Hmm.....
Maybe its my hands, but It seems when I use it in 18650 mode I have problems getting a strong grip of the locking ring to get it tight and I get wobble. WHen I use the extension tube I get a nice tight join.
Im sure its mostly my stupid hands.
Im sure its mostly my stupid hands.
I have to agree. If you will be using a Kick and/or an 18650, the extension tube is a great investment. It adds a negligible amount of weight for the secure feeling you get. And if you have larger hands, the 18650 + Kick configuration works just fine.
I get the same. When in 18650 mode, I use the longer tube to get the more secure feel
Hmmm, I use it in 18650 mode w/o the extension tube and everything is as rock solid as smaller modes.
But I'll probably purchase an extension when they come around again, just in case I ever decide to kick. Doubtfull, but still nice to have the option.
But I'll probably purchase an extension when they come around again, just in case I ever decide to kick. Doubtfull, but still nice to have the option.
Since my ELA is always Kicked....I use the extension tube with a 18490 battery/Kick2..... It goes deeper into the main body adding stability....
I found an odd thing with the satin ELA. I had wanted to swtich the top cover on them so I could have contrasting finishes and found the I could not put the polished top accent on the satin top cap. It worked fine the other way around and thought why?
I took a look and thought well, well maybe, just maybe a burr? Nope, perfect like always, but after looking under my lighted magnifying glass, I noticed that there are less threads on the satin accent cover than on the older polished one.
A change ? But no problem as I can just switch out the whole top assembly. Just thought Id share, in case someone else thought of doing the same.
I took a look and thought well, well maybe, just maybe a burr? Nope, perfect like always, but after looking under my lighted magnifying glass, I noticed that there are less threads on the satin accent cover than on the older polished one.
A change ? But no problem as I can just switch out the whole top assembly. Just thought Id share, in case someone else thought of doing the same.
I have a little something going on with my satin ELA too. It came with brass rings. When I got my shiny I also got an extra set of satin rings.
The *only* lower ring that will screw all the way on my satin ELA is the brass one that came with it. All ring varieties work fine on my shiny ELA. I think I'll be sending the satin in to see what's up.
The *only* lower ring that will screw all the way on my satin ELA is the brass one that came with it. All ring varieties work fine on my shiny ELA. I think I'll be sending the satin in to see what's up.
That is odd, too. I will have to see if the accent rings that came with my polished will work with the new satin. I ordered polished accents with my satin because I already had a set of satins that I ordered separately. Thanks for sharing.
I just switch out all the other accents, including the bottoms and they are fine to interchange. Only top cap cap accent cover is off. Like I said this is not really a problem as I can just switch out the whole top cap unit.
But your situation is not good as you cant have the fun of having a different look. Im sure they will figure it out. Maybe they can just send you out the parts and then you can send back the problem piece so you dont have to be without.
I just switch out all the other accents, including the bottoms and they are fine to interchange. Only top cap cap accent cover is off. Like I said this is not really a problem as I can just switch out the whole top cap unit.
But your situation is not good as you cant have the fun of having a different look. Im sure they will figure it out. Maybe they can just send you out the parts and then you can send back the problem piece so you dont have to be without.
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I come to the conclusion that batteries vary in size. I have noticed that when I change out a battery that I many times have to readjust the tube and the top center pin slightly. I can use 2 batteries and pop in another and then start getting a hot button. I take it apart and do the adjustments and no hot button. I suppose if one is a bit longer it shoves the battery up to the center pin just a tad too tightly.
Has anyone else noticed anything like this?
Has anyone else noticed anything like this?
Thats probably because the Kayfun doesnt have a adjustable center pin and just happens to be at the right height to make perfect contact with it. My Odysseus have an adjustable center pin and every time I rebuild them I have to screw the attys center pin in and it varies so I have to adjust the ELA pin every time. Its really easy to adjust , just turn it one way or the the other. I love how easy it is to fine tune things on ELA.
On Kayfun you not get variables when changing things out. THe deck stays as is , so does the center pin of the Kayfun. With Odysseus everytime I have to clean the wick, which is every tankful with most flavors I have to unscrew the rebuildable part from the base.
On Kayfun you not get variables when changing things out. THe deck stays as is , so does the center pin of the Kayfun. With Odysseus everytime I have to clean the wick, which is every tankful with most flavors I have to unscrew the rebuildable part from the base.
Yes, batteries of the same type do vary in size; length and diameter. I change the battery in my ELA by loosening the locking ring, pulling the two halves of the mod apart, removing the battery, placing the fresh battery in the bottom half of the mod, dropping the top half of the mod onto the bottom half with battery and the tightening the lock ring. I let the weight of the top half of the mod regulate the gap between the two halves of the mod and don't use any pressure to narrow the gap because if I do, the mod will fire when it's stood on end. This method automatically adjusts the height of the ELA to the height of the battery with no further adjustment needed on the button or positive post.
I use my ELA mainly in 18500 mode and I get a slightly different gap between the two halves with each of my batteries. The above method will work with any size batteries and also when changing battery sizes. I'd rather have this gap than need to adjust my button throw or my center post when changing batteries.
Love my ELA - but - there is a very obvious voltage drop between it and say, a Nemisis (I have 3). Just doesn't hit as hard, and the meter shows a drop of a good .4 volts. Love the device - but the nemesis kills it in performance. It has become the - well...this is a little too harsh on the nem - I'll put in on the ELA thing. Love the ELA - but even nemesis clones are better hitting.
After having the ELA for a pretty good while now, I would suggest that most of the voltage drop issues are tied to the locking mechanism. It gets dirty pretty quickly, and it's the only Super T part that I clean on a fairly regular basis (every two weeks or so). Cleaning it really helps. Also, it helps to lock the device down pretty tight. I do this by unscrewing the top cap about half a turn before sliding the tube down and locking it. I then tighten the top cap that last half turn to get a good, tight lock on the battery. With that setup, the voltage drop is pretty low. I'm not a professional voltage tester like some ecig users, but I can tell a difference when I set it up this way.
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