The Super-T ELA discussion and tips, tricks and Info sharing Thread:

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anavidfan

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PM me, I will try my best to help you out. Just to help, I find that 3mm reg silica or 2mm ekowool works best. Again, if you use thick juice you might go smaller. I use 32 gauge kanthal with 34 nickel for the resistance, I find the thinner nickel is easier to wrap. Flooding could be a few things, either your parts are not tightened enough, such as the rebuidable unit etc or that you didnt close the juice control when filling. Let me know I have a few other tricks up my sleeve. Ody never leaks for me unless I get forgetful.
 

anavidfan

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Hello fellow "Satin" ELA owners, Im getting close ( I hope) to the arrrival of my second and last ELA. It being the first and only Satin or media blasted stainless steel item, I wanted to know the best way to keep it looking good. I know things like Autosol and other abrasive cleaner/polishes are out of the question.

Are Cape Cod wipes okay, and what about Fitz rifle wax? I am really getting happy with the thought of getting the "Satan". I have the satin accent rings and have been using them both and love the way the satin feels in my hands.

For years people, like snork, go on about how lovely the satin finish is and its something that needs to be seen in person to appreciate. It really is nice. Its as if someone took titanium and smoky diamonds , ground them up and sprayed it on. Whats cool is that is NOT sprayed on so it wont wear off.

Thanks for any information you all have to share. Im seriously thinking of sending the kayfun lite off to be satinized, I know it wont match exactly, but it will look nice. I can just see it now, I will save and save and finally send it to be refinished and Kayfun will bring out a satin Kayfun lite after.
 

vaptamist

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Honestly, I just occasionally rinse mine off in hot water and let it air dry. And that's only if I have some sort of juice accident, or if I'm cleaning the threads because I got pocket lint in them. Once it dries out, I wipe it down with a soft cloth if there's any sort of minerals left over from the water drying.
 

Nach

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Yep, pretty much no upkeep other than general cleaning. No polishing needed at all. It's amazingly scratch resistant.

Here's a photo I took over a year ago. When I got my two big firsts! Best USA regulated mod and Best USA mechanical mod!!

ySab4UG.jpg
 

snork

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The one thing I've noticed is that the satin finish can flatten out, wear off over time on edges and raised areas if you just cram them in your pocket, let them roll around, throw 'em in a box, etc. It's not a big deal at all because the hue remains the same and you have to look for it. On two occasions I've sent a batch back for a touch up.
 

anavidfan

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Hey Nach, Ive always like the DIDs, but for me Genesis were not a hit, but I did have a DID for 3 days and delivered it in person to the rightful owner, long story, it was sent to me by mistake by MW......

I love the form , simple,clean and so well made. I see a few come and go in waves on the Classifieds, have you ever set it up with silica instead of mesh? I hear its possible, but I only tried it once with a Storm Rider and it was a miserable experience. I sold the Storm RIder to someone that was desperate for one.
 

aziffel

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Hey Nach, Ive always like the DIDs, but for me Genesis were not a hit, but I did have a DID for 3 days and delivered it in person to the rightful owner, long story, it was sent to me by mistake by MW......

I love the form , simple,clean and so well made. I see a few come and go in waves on the Classifieds, have you ever set it up with silica instead of mesh? I hear its possible, but I only tried it once with a Storm Rider and it was a miserable experience. I sold the Storm RIder to someone that was desperate for one.

Not Nach,but I have 1 with mesh and 1 with xc116.I prefer the mesh taste,but the xc116 wick works fine
 

OnTheFidele

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Hey guys, I need some help.

I was charging a 18350 battery in my Xtar SP2 at 0.5 Amps and started to smell some hot plastic. Looked at my charger and the indicator light for that side of the port was blinking very rapidly (red/greed). I unplugged the unit immediately. The battery was a little warm, as was the charger. What does this mean? :confused: Do I have to buy a new charger?
 

Nach

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Hey Nach, Ive always like the DIDs, but for me Genesis were not a hit, but I did have a DID for 3 days and delivered it in person to the rightful owner, long story, it was sent to me by mistake by MW......

I love the form , simple,clean and so well made. I see a few come and go in waves on the Classifieds, have you ever set it up with silica instead of mesh? I hear its possible, but I only tried it once with a Storm Rider and it was a miserable experience. I sold the Storm RIder to someone that was desperate for one.

I've never built it with silica, but that doesn't mean you cannot. I've seen others do so and also use cotton. Mesh tastes the best for me and I stick to it.
 

Cucco

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Hello ela lovers. I have one in satin. Love it. Use it a lot. One question. Sometimes I find the ring doesn't lock down as well as it used to. Maybe I over tightened it? Anyone ever have the battery tube slip when the ring is lockd?

The tension ring is made of aluminum. Therefore, I would assume they may tend to wear or warp. David announced yesterday, some replacement aluminum tension rings should be available this week.
 
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jamesd1628

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Hello ela lovers. I have one in satin. Love it. Use it a lot. One question. Sometimes I find the ring doesn't lock down as well as it used to. Maybe I over tightened it? Anyone ever have the battery tube slip when the ring is lockd?

I'm not too big on cleaning my devices. That's one of the many reasons I love Super T devices so much, with the low-maintenance rhodium and whatnot. However, I have taken to cleaning my ELA locking ring about every two weeks or so. It tends to gather a lot of lint, crud, etc., and when it does, the locking ring loses some of its grip.

Its pretty easy to clean with soap and water. You need to clean the ring itself, as well as the threads on the body. I have also removed the aluminim inner ring several times for cleaning. It's not that difficult. Just use a small flathead screwdriver to push it out. Push it out through the bottom (the threaded side), because the top side has a ledge that makes removal more difficult. I actually slightly deformed the ring once, but got it back into shape by wrapping it around the sliding tube (the ribbed part) and pressing it around that tube. After a good cleaning, it should regain its locking strength.
 
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