If I understand correctly, anodizing actually alters the molecular structure of the surface of the aluminum, leaving it very hard and resistant to scratching, staining, and corrosion. The coloring is obtained by adding different substances to the process, as opposed to just adding dye or paint.
Does powder coating have any effect other than coloring the metal?
It actually alters the molecular structure TOO much. Meaning, the aluminum no longer conducts and we found out the hard way today ... see below for more info.
There is nothing great about anodizing. Yes it is basically staining the metal; however, anodizing tends to fade fast esp. with black (will tend to look purple over time).
I think powder-coating is the way to go. Of course you can scratch it like any finish, but powder coating is way more durable than say paint, etc. I believe the reg e-cigs are powder-coat. I haven't even ordered one of these, but was glad to see them go to powder-coating. Just look at the pics. That is a nice finish.
I have noticed that matte black will start to look glossy if you spill juice on it and wipe it MULTIPLE times, but I believe they did not go with flat black they went with Satin black.
Should LOOK great in powder-coat as opposed to anodizing, IMHO...
Haven't noticed a fad on some really old anodized dials, etc... They are easily 10-12 years old and looks the same with a few deep scratches, etc... No purple ... LOL. Although, I know several people on here would LOVE purple
PCing is the way to go, and will move forward all on parts.
It is all about CLASS my friend
Gotta love Steve!
Prodigy is beautiful... I had a dream about it last night!
Does anyone remember if Steve said whether the passthrus will be one and will take adapters for all types? On PS page looks like the 801/901 has the reg type and the 401/510 have the thicker type with adapter. Is this the "V1/V2" thing? The 28G wire will be in the originals and then the 20G will be in the new version that takes an adapter?
Awwww... Thanks Spikey
Not sure what you mean about adapters. Both the Prodigy and uSBpass now take adapters and are roughly built the same way ... That make sense? Also, yes the original USB pass will be 3' 28g and the 2nd batch and moving forward will be 6' 20g
So ... Here we go guys ... The Final Stretch ....
Latest Info ....
The Anodizing and Etching LOOK LIKE PERFECTION ... The only problem is, THEY DON'T WORK! As stated earlier, when anodizing something, it in fact changes the chemical structure to a certain extent ... We didn't in fact know it would change it to the extent it now sits in. When anodizing, the use of plugs/thread covers/etc... is almost impossible, and anodizing is best done on parts that are non-electrical, or simply piece that don't involve conductivity. The reason = As soon as the piece is anodized, its no longer conductive, plain and simple.
So, while the below may look awesome ... They don't work
Luckily, our very large set went off to the PCer's today and should be ready to go Monday for a Monday shipment. The PC versions look even better ... EXCEPT, you are NOT able to engrave AFTER the PC, so that means the engraving ends up being the same color as the actual PC. We decided to keep the retro 80's font for now as well, as programming to take this 1 off Prodigy font would just add another few days to the mix. With anodizing, etching works ... With PCing, you have to actually delve deeper and engrave, then PC.
Here are the anodized Prodigy's that will NOT be shipping anywhere anytime soon ... They do make some great mantle piece/paper weights though
Next week, once the PC prodigy's start shipping, we will go back and see if we can strip the entire interior coating on these anodized version ... if they end up conducting, then we can ship them...if not, they will remain desktop paper weights
Enough Talk ... Pictures