The link I posted for it took about 2 weeks.
Edit: But this is a REAL good find, same price as the slow boat one. But it looks like a "Mini" instead of a "Micro". I dont have those mini usb cables laying around so much anymore.
Last edited:
The "WeekEnder"
- Thread starter mikepetro
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
The link I posted for it took about 2 weeks.
Edit: But this is a REAL good find, same price as the slow boat one. But it looks like a "Mini" instead of a "Micro". I dont have those mini usb cables laying around so much anymore.
lol! isn't it funny that the guys are looking for bigger while the ladies want something inconspicuous!
I just know that there is a joke here, but I am trying mightily to resist!
hum......looking at the wiring......is there but 1 yellow on the fire circuit? and only 1 wire on the out circuit? and only 1 wire on the charge circuit? and only 1 wire on the battery circuit? maybe the picture is fooling me...looks like there is a lot of through holes with no solder....
Good god man, have you ran out of zip ties yet
It looks really clean, but I never seem to have room for such luxuries. So I usually stick to a wrap of electrical tape here and there.
If you want to be super trick get some of that finely braided nylon tubing. I would put a dab of CA on the ends to keep it from fraying and in place on the wire and then put a small piece of heat shrink on the ends. It looks great but also allows your wires to stay together with out the bulk of the zip ties as well as keeping the wires flexible.
ROFL! paraphrased: 'Great job, Mike! Now please tear it apart and redo it..'
Not that stuff, but the same website had the stuff I was referring to Braided Cable Sleeving - Black/Color PET
Very keen eye, yep you are right.
I am using the Chassis as ground. Since all the grounds (negative connections) on the dna are shared except for the Up switch, all I needed was to hook up one ground. Ohm out a DNA board, without any wires hooked up to it you will read continuity between all negative terminals on the board except for the Up/Pot one. That means you can hook up a single negative tied to the chasis and it will work.
Now it is a good solid ground, I soldered a wire to the jamnut holding the 510 connector in.
I am not using the DNA charge circuit, that just happened to be the easiest ground for me to solder to.
The Fire button has a second lead tied directly to ground.
The negative side of the Battery in is handled by the common ground that I put on the Charger terminal.
The negative output is handled by the same connection.
Last edited:
One is all you really need, as long as you use good 20g wire and have good connections thru the case back to the battery. The ground circuit is shared on the DNA anyway (except for the pot/up). It just saves from running a bunch of extra wires.
yep...thought he might be doing a bit of creative circuitry, just wanted to make sure....
You guys are making me want to build a dna-20 mod. Gonna have to start getting the stuff together.
Yeah, the Evolv board is only 500ma, it would take forever to charge these 2 bats at that rate. Thats why I opted for a 1 amp charger.
Give us a pic from the other side of the DNA with the wires..
Too late.......
Yep I have the evolv board on my DNA12 weekender with two 3100 and it takes all night to charge.
it's never too late
Hmmmm, that keyhole is starting to look like a "Site" on a high powered sniper rifle.
Got on a roll, the end was in sight so I plugged ahead!
Here it is "The Weekender" all wired up.
At this point I gave it a "smoke check". Glad I did, I discovered I hooked up the Up/Down buttons backwards so I had to resolder them. At first I was just going to blow it off and live with it. Then my "Type A" kicked in and I went ahead and fixed it.
Also discovered a nuance about these protected battery holders. They dont power up right away when you first put the batteries in. I thought my build was dead! That I screwed it up somehow. Looked it up online and discovered that you have to "wake them up" first by plugging in the charger. After waking them up they functioned as expected. Not sure these bat holders would be a good choice for a "replaceable bat" type setup, what happens if you dont have a charger? It is working great in this application though.
In the photos above I had simply attached the DNA board to the back of the screen with a piece of foam double back tape. It made me nervous as it didnt feel very "robust". So I took a piece of Spanish Cedar from an old cigar humidor and fashioned a bracket. I glued the wood to the chassis, and then the board to the wood, using Plastic Weld. It worked out great, and I sure am glad that stuff dries quick.
Here it is "The Weekender" all wired up.
At this point I gave it a "smoke check". Glad I did, I discovered I hooked up the Up/Down buttons backwards so I had to resolder them. At first I was just going to blow it off and live with it. Then my "Type A" kicked in and I went ahead and fixed it.
Also discovered a nuance about these protected battery holders. They dont power up right away when you first put the batteries in. I thought my build was dead! That I screwed it up somehow. Looked it up online and discovered that you have to "wake them up" first by plugging in the charger. After waking them up they functioned as expected. Not sure these bat holders would be a good choice for a "replaceable bat" type setup, what happens if you dont have a charger? It is working great in this application though.
In the photos above I had simply attached the DNA board to the back of the screen with a piece of foam double back tape. It made me nervous as it didnt feel very "robust". So I took a piece of Spanish Cedar from an old cigar humidor and fashioned a bracket. I glued the wood to the chassis, and then the board to the wood, using Plastic Weld. It worked out great, and I sure am glad that stuff dries quick.
- Status
Similar threads
