It shouldn't, but other mods don't putout like they should. I believe BJ has tested a vamo and it doesn't putout like it should at higher wattage settings.
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It shouldn't, but other mods don't putout like they should. I believe BJ has tested a vamo and it doesn't putout like it should at higher wattage settings.
Ordered the Bat for my next attempt:
Gens Ace LIPO Battery 6000mah 25C 3.7V
Anybody have any idea how much space you save by removing the hard case shell?
What are the pros and cons in using a 1s2p bat (like this one) vs a single cell bat?
Would I be correct that I could probably get 2 3000mah Bats out of it I tore it apart?
Would the individual Bats then be 12.5C bats?
I have to figure out an enclosure for it now.
I found a decent source for enclosures BTW, bought two from them already, including the one I used on this mod. They have several that could be adapted to our use, and they are cheap. Free shipping and delivery was about 2 weeks. They also included several extra case screws, which was nice.
RF Connector,SMA Connector,SMA Antenna,SMA Adapter,SMA Cable - Rfsupplier.com
Gens Ace LIPO Battery 6000mah 25C 3.7V
Anybody have any idea how much space you save by removing the hard case shell?
What are the pros and cons in using a 1s2p bat (like this one) vs a single cell bat?
Would I be correct that I could probably get 2 3000mah Bats out of it I tore it apart?
Would the individual Bats then be 12.5C bats?
I have to figure out an enclosure for it now.
I found a decent source for enclosures BTW, bought two from them already, including the one I used on this mod. They have several that could be adapted to our use, and they are cheap. Free shipping and delivery was about 2 weeks. They also included several extra case screws, which was nice.
RF Connector,SMA Connector,SMA Antenna,SMA Adapter,SMA Cable - Rfsupplier.com
Mike I found this place for the type of holder you used for this build and it says they are not to be used with button top cells.
Battery holder : Li-Ion 18650 Battery Holder (1S1P) With 2.6" long 20AWG & PCB (1S1P-18650)
Battery holder : Li-Ion 18650 Battery Holder (1S1P) With 2.6" long 20AWG & PCB (1S1P-18650)
No real pro or cons IMO. Likely the individual cells are half of what the total is. Most RC packs I have tore into, the cells are individually marked on each cell. So that should tell you.
That is two parallel cells, if you are not going to use the hard pack, it is much cheaper just buying individual flat cells and solder them parallel.
I get confused on the specs for this holder though. You source (nice local one BTW) seems to say that it limits the current to 5a but the specs for the PCM-L01S03-375 dont back that up.
It lists the Max Continuous current as 5a, but doesnt say anything about it clamping it there.
It list the current cutoff at 9.5a
The way I am interpreting it is that they rate it for 5a continuous duty but only shut down when you get about twice that.
Any thoughts?
It lists the Max Continuous current as 5a, but doesnt say anything about it clamping it there.
It list the current cutoff at 9.5a
The way I am interpreting it is that they rate it for 5a continuous duty but only shut down when you get about twice that.
Any thoughts?
Can you access the pcb in your spare and take a high res photo? If so we might be able to identify the components and get their specs and etc.
An easy test would be to let your battery get down to half or below and then turn the DNA up to 20 watts, and if it works then its obviously not limiting at 5 amps.
Really the DNA doesn't need any current protection, its more for the batteries in a dead short situation or if the DNA goes haywire for some reason.
An easy test would be to let your battery get down to half or below and then turn the DNA up to 20 watts, and if it works then its obviously not limiting at 5 amps.
Really the DNA doesn't need any current protection, its more for the batteries in a dead short situation or if the DNA goes haywire for some reason.
Stupid Question. Can the PCB be used as the charge board and eliminate using a separate charge board?
http://www.batteryspace.com/PCB-for-3.7V-Li-Ion-Battery-8.0A-limit.aspx
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A PCB board with a charge circuit, yes. But the not the PCB board on that battery holder, because it doesn't have a charge circuit (way to take a 5v input and CC/CV charge the battery)
I'm a little bummed about the battery holder not working for both flat top and button top batteries. My biggest concern with a DNA is reverse polarity, and these holders do that without adding any extra resistance to the battery circuit like options like Mamu's reverse polarity mosfet. The DNA handles the rest of the safety measures except a way to break the circuit if the battery dead shorts somewhere. So that is why the ptc fuses or other fuse type is used.
But even on 4 different brands of my flat tops, the positive of the battery did not make contact with the negative terminals when inserted backwards. The positive contacts on the bats are 8-9mm round, while the negative terminals have a distance of 11.11mm in between them.
Which is a good thing and I like that, just the part about not being universal to all 18650's is what I don't like.
I would probably just dump the pcb and wire in a fuse(s) if it were me, but all my 18650's are button top.....grrrr
Gearing up to go out of town for the Holiday right now. When I return this weekend I will dissect one of the 11,1v units they sent and take pics. It has the same current specs as the 3.7v model. I do have one 3.7v model left, and if I can do it non-destructively I will do that one in addition. I will have to wait and see if I can get the 11.1v apart without destroying something.
On a related not, does anyone have a good source for a 9a PTC fuse? I am setting my sights on the DNA30 if/when it happens.
BTW, couldnt a diode be used for reverse polarity protection? That seems so simple that I am sure someone has eliminated it already for some reason or another.
Just run two in parallel, it doubles the amp and halves the resistance imparted on the circuit. Breaktru and mamu have better explanations and documentation somewhere.
I have used a low profile mini blade fuse and really like them in some applications. The PTC fuses can build resistance over time, where the blade fuse just blows and replaced. But you obviously want the blade fuse somewhere fairly accessible.
Specifically, will this PCB charge the battery if you put 5v to it according to the wiring diagram?
Protection Circuit Module (PCB) for 3.7V Li-Ion Battery (8.0A limit)
Protection Circuit Module (PCB) for 3.7V Li-Ion Battery (8.0A limit)
Specifically, will this PCB charge the battery if you put 5v to it according to the wiring diagram?
Protection Circuit Module (PCB) for 3.7V Li-Ion Battery (8.0A limit)
I don't believe so, I think "charge" in diagram is referring to a charger.
It would be nice to have a charger on there as well.
Right but even in those mods it's reading voltage under load and adjusting it. It's not like mech mods where you have an unloaded voltage and loaded voltage.
I think I know what you mean, and so I think I agree with you.
The example I remember was that a vamo was set at 14 watts and for the given ohm reading it should have been outputting X volts, however it was actually outputting less. I'm not sure if the vamo was saying it was outputting X and was actually outputting less or what the situations was. I'm not familiar with the vamo so I can't say what the deal was. Mike and BJ were talking about their self defense vamo's in another thread.
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