The "WeekEnder"

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jayny

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I know Zippy doesnt have the best reputation in the R/C world, but I figure I wont be taxing the Bat as hard in a mod as they do in a car. I only need about 2-3C out of one.

So I rolled the dice and got a pair of these:
Z57002S3P-25%2813%29.jpg


I figure a 5700mAh 25C bat for less than $14, heck thats in the same price range as 2 18650s.
With dimensions of: 69x46x31mm
It opens up some other possibilities in terms of enclosures.

I also got one of those battery checker-uppers that Bap has. I will compare the Zippy against the A-spec.

these fellas crack open to get them smaller, or they sealed up...
 

mikepetro

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these fellas crack open to get them smaller, or they sealed up...

My assumption is that they will crack (or destructively tear) open like the other hardpacks. Certainly they will be a few MM smaller at that point.

Edit: I will do one when I get them and take pics and measurements.
 
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bapgood

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little bit off topic, but can you safely wife more than 2 lipos in parallel, say 3 ? all brand new of course

This should go without saying, but just to clarify for anyone reading.

Yes you can parallel as many as you want, but they should be new, same brand, same size mAh.
 

BJ43

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After hearing so much aclaim from Mike and Bap about the TFGT, I decided to go back and see why I could not get mine to work. They kept flooding. Someone put up a site with a flight manual for it and now they are flying straight and level.:) I was thinking the flooding was thru the juice channels and it was the chimney. The little oring wasn't even going into the cap and the juice just drained out. You would think with all my years flying I would read the manual. Anyhoo, they are now becoming my favorites.:D
 

Schnarph

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I've had an idea for making a "WeekEnder" tube mod for a while now, using 3 tubes (2 for batteries, 1 for the DNA and 510 connector). Most likely I'll use 3/4" copper M pipe, but if I can get really cheap SS mech mods I'll do that instead. I'm not too worried about voltage loss using a SS body, 30 watts is more than enough for me... even 25 would be overkill. The only thing stopping me is needing a mamu/bap screen cradle with a face curved to fit a 22mm or 33mm tube (screen mounted vertically). Any thoughts or opinions would be appreciated. :)
 

turbocad6

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I'm building a tube mod with a dna and I would suggest that you really might not want a bezel protruding on a tube. what I'm planning on doing is cutting the opening and then getting a piece of acrylic tube or rod about the same diameter and making a window that fits in from the inside so it's flush and sealed without protruding. just cut the piece slightly oversize, slide it in behind your opening and then trace the opening, then sand/dremel whatever up to the traced line all around, leaving a step around the tracing about as thick as the tube but slightly more so the acrylic protrudes slightly. it can then be sanded to flush flush and polished back to clear. you could also do this with just a block of acrylic but a rod will get you closer to start from
 

Schnarph

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I'm building a tube mod with a dna and I would suggest that you really might not want a bezel protruding on a tube. what I'm planning on doing is cutting the opening and then getting a piece of acrylic tube or rod about the same diameter and making a window that fits in from the inside so it's flush and sealed without protruding. just cut the piece slightly oversize, slide it in behind your opening and then trace the opening, then sand/dremel whatever up to the traced line all around, leaving a step around the tracing about as thick as the tube but slightly more so the acrylic protrudes slightly. it can then be sanded to flush flush and polished back to clear. you could also do this with just a block of acrylic but a rod will get you closer to start from
That makes perfect sense, but I'd really like a cradle inside the tube to hold the screen safely. I don't mind the bezel protruding, as long as the inside of the bezel fits the ~22mm tube OD. I'm not going to sell it or enter it in a contest, I just want to keep the screen in place and intact. As for the window and protection from the outside, your suggestion is a great idea. Although, I wouldn't mind if the window was flat, the width is pretty small and with a protruding bezel it might not be noticeable.

The best alternative I've come up with is similar to the ZNA but with 2 tubes and a flat face like box/rectangle to house the DNA.
 

turbocad6

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well I don't know how far you've gotten or how you plan to put this together but putting it in a tube is very tight. not sure you'd ever be able to place it in a bezel from behind the way you are saying tbh. I am making mine as an insert that the dna mounts too, then just slide it into the tube as an assy. the screen will be mounted to the insert, not the tube or the bezel really and just wind up sitting behind the lense. I'll get you some pics but it basically fits into a tube the size of an 18350 length.

buttons and bezels and getting everything to line up and fit and work well will be a real challenge, it's nothing like putting the dna in a box, that's for sure... even the electrical connections are tricky to pull off. putting the dna into an 18-19mm ID tube is tough.
 

turbocad6

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thinking about what you're looking for, I'd probably cut a section out of a tube large enough to drop the dna in from the side, then have the bezel be a cover for it. would make it everything much easier and doable if you're not looking for perfect, and even that can be done kind of nicely too.

to put it in the tube seamless and only have a bezel the size of the display and have good working buttons that look good will be much much harder. here's the beginning of what I got, I made a plastic housing/ frame for the dna ~ the size of an 18350 battery. basically making the dna into a drop in 18350 sized format.













what I was saying for the cover was something like this window but longer of course







if you're looking for 2 batteries and a dna then instead of 3 tubes what about 2 tubes with a base for the dna? this one is one tube for bottom feed but could be 2 batteries instead. easier to put the dna in a square base than a tube and 3 tubes will be pretty fat and awkward to hold, dual tubes feels good

 

rolf

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After hearing so much aclaim from Mike and Bap about the TFGT, I decided to go back and see why I could not get mine to work. They kept flooding. Someone put up a site with a flight manual for it and now they are flying straight and level.:) I was thinking the flooding was thru the juice channels and it was the chimney. The little oring wasn't even going into the cap and the juice just drained out. You would think with all my years flying I would read the manual. Anyhoo, they are now becoming my favorites.:D

hi bj !
wish I could try mine ! had a problem with it . the threads in the top cap and upper chimney were stripped !! so that's where the problem with the alignment and binding and pushing the combustion chamber down and not sealing it came from...ft on vacation so have to send them an e mail .
 
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