* holds back massive rant about using joules in this context*
For a ballpark calculation that sounds about right.
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* holds back massive rant about using joules in this context*
For a ballpark calculation that sounds about right.
Can't help you with that sorry. Been using titanium on my D2. Like it betetr then nickel but still prefer kanthal.
Picked up this real old school dripper the other day. Like from the 80's or something. Called the innokin Vapor Forge. Ugliest dripper I ever seen. Got some kewl features. Built this with a super high ohm build of 1.0Ω and hit it at 40w. Pure heaven. Haven't been able to but it down
Picked up this real old school dripper the other day. Like from the 80's or something. Called the innokin Vapor Forge. Ugliest dripper I ever seen. Got some kewl features. Built this with a super high ohm build of 1.0Ω and hit it at 40w. Pure heaven. Haven't been able to but it down
*continues to hold back rant*
If you have a cheap/older multimeter with a analog display (pointer vs digital display) you can measure output voltage pretty well.
If you want to try it I can tell you how if you want.
If you have a cheap/older multimeter with a analog display (pointer vs digital display) you can measure output voltage pretty well.
If you want to try it I can tell you how if you want.
Threw out a order to 3FVapes abit ago for a squonker and dual deck for my Squape. Put it out of my mind like all China orders.
Time passes.........
Found a place in the US that makes clone Nautilus coils. Threw out an order to put in my Kaubki.
More time passes and I find I don't like the Kabuki and am gonna sell it. Want to include clone coils.
Time passes I check my 3F order and see I should have it tomorrow.
Still no clone coils.
Time passes.........
Found a place in the US that makes clone Nautilus coils. Threw out an order to put in my Kaubki.
More time passes and I find I don't like the Kabuki and am gonna sell it. Want to include clone coils.
Time passes I check my 3F order and see I should have it tomorrow.
Still no clone coils.
My Radius is on its way!!!
You should like it.
I was interested because on the surface it looked like it would work for me. Rozynoodle pointed out that its very limited and I think I'm gonna take a pass on it.
I picked up an AGA-T7 from a local B&M on the way home. I'll build it later tonight and fingers crossed, no leaks. 
So big shout out to Boden as promised if I liked the Squape Rs.
THANK YOU BODEN!!!!!!
Such a fantastic tank. So easy to build on. I mean crazy stupid easy nutz holy momma easy. I swap builds in this thing more then I swap my, er,........ well alot anyway.
The airflow is good. Almost enough. So close. Works great but if it had just alittle more air.
Had some great TC builds on it. Works the best of any TC yet but still not my thing.
Had a tootle puffer build with some really kicking 12mg nic stuff for a hotel stay last week. Hated the harshness of the juice but it worked good in the room.
Right now I have a .6 build at 15w which sounds like a crap build but I love it.
Can't wait to try duals. I can never get the vape I want off single coil. Also got a black Rs clone for the Provari but decided to sell the Provari anyway. But it will look good on the D2 with the titaium wire in the same order.
THANK YOU BODEN!!!!!!
Such a fantastic tank. So easy to build on. I mean crazy stupid easy nutz holy momma easy. I swap builds in this thing more then I swap my, er,........ well alot anyway.
The airflow is good. Almost enough. So close. Works great but if it had just alittle more air.
Had some great TC builds on it. Works the best of any TC yet but still not my thing.
Had a tootle puffer build with some really kicking 12mg nic stuff for a hotel stay last week. Hated the harshness of the juice but it worked good in the room.
Right now I have a .6 build at 15w which sounds like a crap build but I love it.
Can't wait to try duals. I can never get the vape I want off single coil. Also got a black Rs clone for the Provari but decided to sell the Provari anyway. But it will look good on the D2 with the titaium wire in the same order.
1 ohm is "super high ohm"? In that case, my 1.77Ω is stratospheric! And I run it at 9w, if not less. You can see I'm not REALLY a womper... I just enjoy the coil porn.
I guess that makes me a womper-voyeur. Andria
11 joules could be 11W for 1 second or 22W for 0.5 seconds or 44W for 0.25 seconds.
A watt-second is 1W of work (heat in our case) sustained for 1 second.
brb
Maybe I can help Ding, some things just don't need to be too technical and TC is one of them.
The joules on TC mods are just YiHi marketing schtuff... The first thing is everything that you know about Kanthal is really not required for TC purposes.
The Joules are basically Watts for our needs with these basic TC mods.
You really only need to worry about two things, that you coil is built to TC spec, Ni 0.1Ω-0.4Ω or Ti 0.1Ω-0.8Ω on the Cloupor Mini Plus. The second one is the temperature that you want your vape to be.
The Joules or Watts is the amount of power that gets the coil up to the set temperature. Some TC devices you can set some you cant, the iStick 40W TC puts 40W out to the TC coil to get it up to temp and it is not adjustable. Your Cloupor has an automatic setting, my iPV D2 I can set up to 50J (YiHi). If I set my power to 7J and my temp to 450F then it will take a 26g build of Ti quite a while to get up to temp, if I set it to 50J it will get there immediately. You shouldn't have to worry about any of that as I imagine the automatic power setting on you device measures the time it takes to ramp up to temp and adjusts accordingly.
This is what I want from TC. A consistent vape where every hit is the same. Also when my tank is dry or I have juice flow issues I don't get a dry hit. The iPV D2 does both of those things perfectly.
I think that your 330-350F might be a little low, I run my coils around 430-460F but you will know if your vape is warm enough or not.
On a Kanthal build a 0.1Ω coil on a fresh battery draws 42A bringing it temp so you can vape. The 0.1 Ni/Ti coil is brought up to temp in miliseconds from the TC circuitry and doesn't require the same hard amps to achieve this.
If this is not what you are looking for then I'll just fade back into the background again...
I imagine Boden will correct any errors in my logic as well.
Well... there is just one thing. Dinger asked how to calculate battery draw based on Joules.Maybe I can help Ding, some things just don't need to be too technical and TC is one of them.
The joules on TC mods are just YiHi marketing schtuff... The first thing is everything that you know about Kanthal is really not required for TC purposes.
The Joules are basically Watts for our needs with these basic TC mods.
You really only need to worry about two things, that you coil is built to TC spec, Ni 0.1Ω-0.4Ω or Ti 0.1Ω-0.8Ω on the Cloupor Mini Plus. The second one is the temperature that you want your vape to be.
The Joules or Watts is the amount of power that gets the coil up to the set temperature. Some TC devices you can set some you cant, the iStick 40W TC puts 40W out to the TC coil to get it up to temp and it is not adjustable. Your Cloupor has an automatic setting, my iPV D2 I can set up to 50J (YiHi). If I set my power to 7J and my temp to 450F then it will take a 26g build of Ti quite a while to get up to temp, if I set it to 50J it will get there immediately. You shouldn't have to worry about any of that as I imagine the automatic power setting on you device measures the time it takes to ramp up to temp and adjusts accordingly.
This is what I want from TC. A consistent vape where every hit is the same. Also when my tank is dry or I have juice flow issues I don't get a dry hit. The iPV D2 does both of those things perfectly.
I think that your 330-350F might be a little low, I run my coils around 430-460F but you will know if your vape is warm enough or not.
On a Kanthal build a 0.1Ω coil on a fresh battery draws 42A bringing it temp so you can vape. The 0.1 Ni/Ti coil is brought up to temp in miliseconds from the TC circuitry and doesn't require the same hard amps to achieve this.
If this is not what you are looking for then I'll just fade back into the background again...
I imagine Boden will correct any errors in my logic as well.
To use Joules you need to have a set time period in which power is applied or a set wattage and a variable time. If it's one second then 11J is 11W. If it is 0.5 seconds then 11J is 22W. If it is 60W but with 0.18 second that's 11J
Without knowing the time period you can't calculate battery draw.
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@Boden and @TrollDragon.... THANK YOU! I understand a little bit more now. I did somewhat remember that Joules and watts aren't really "interchangeable" (didn't mean to start a rant!). I wasn't quite sure how to phrase my question in the beginning.
I was trying to get a handle on some math, if possible. I have 2 LG HEs and 4 Sammy R-25 that I intend to use, but I was hoping to understand what kind of current draw was occurring. There are some things I just can't take on "faith" alone.
Long rambling short, I really do have to build could within spec, and I will "just be o.k."
And no, I won't "axe no more kweshuns", but I may ask another question or two down the road
Thanks again, guys
I was trying to get a handle on some math, if possible. I have 2 LG HEs and 4 Sammy R-25 that I intend to use, but I was hoping to understand what kind of current draw was occurring. There are some things I just can't take on "faith" alone.
Long rambling short, I really do have to build could within spec, and I will "just be o.k."
And no, I won't "axe no more kweshuns", but I may ask another question or two down the road
Thanks again, guys
With some assumptions as to the efficiency of the chip, sure.
In this case I would need to hook it up to my oscilloscope to find the voltage applied and the time period.
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