Drop in a 20a gfi breaker.... Most of those have indicator lights that can help diagnose issues
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
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Technically the fridge should be on it's own breaker and ALL countertop breakers in a kitchen should be on GFCI breakers.
Personbally I do not think a fridge whould be on a GFCI breaker, they can sometimes trip from power surges and such and if you do not notice all in your fridge spoils.
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Thank you guys for confirming my suspicions.... If anything, I might have considered DOWNGRADING the breaker to a 15A (because I'd WANT it to pop if overloaded.)
Yes, but older house's are not all up to current code.
Eta Finally a topic I can help someone with!
P.S. I'm going to have to double-check to see what circuits are routed to the kitchen. I think I only have two (besides the range - which is wired for 220, I think) Layout of the kitchen is "compressed". I could probably move my coffee pot over to the outlet where my microwave and fridge are currently plugged in and put the microwave back where the coffee is, but I am thinking that outlet is on the same circuit anyway 
Usually all kitchens are split plugs so I think it's time to bring in an electrician to diagnose this issue. I also don't see to many 20A circuits for kitchen plugs since they are usually split.
All depends on what wire was used to wire the kitchen, the 20A breaker might be too much as well. The wall plugs would look different for a 20A circuit.
All depends on what wire was used to wire the kitchen, the 20A breaker might be too much as well. The wall plugs would look different for a 20A circuit.
One good thing - house is old enough to be copper wiring, not aluminum (like the house in which I was raised....) Shortly before my Dad passed, he had the house rewired with copper so he didn't have to fight the CU/AL issue with the outlets.
Yep current codes require combo AFCI/GFCI breakers and the AFCI breakers are troublesome at best. Anything with a brush type motor in it is likely to trip one. Vacuum, Blender, Mixer, etc.Yes, but older house's are not all up to current code.
Eta Finally a topic I can help someone with!
I'd have an electrician wire in two more circuits.
Well I wouldn't being a master electrician myself but you get the idea
Well I wouldn't being a master electrician myself but you get the idea
It would be cheaper to get someone local to do it. I get paid for travel time both to and from the worksite.I'm only a few hours away
Also when replacing a plug/receptacle, do not buy the cheapest one, they will not last. the .69 receptacles at Lowes are garbage. the next step up ones are fine though.
A 15 amp breaker wouldn't handle a refrigeratorµwave. They total about 1700 watts.I'm only a few hours away
I have a question for Evic-VT owners, concerning TC mode (Ti in this case). The manual sort of implies that if I remove my atty and hit the fire button, and then put the atty on, that when I hit the fire button it will ask me if I want to reset the base resistance. But it doesn't. I seem to have to play with it and I am concerned that I am accidentally firing it while trying to reset it, heating up the coil. Is there some way to assuredly reset the resistance without risk of firing it?
Maybe we should have mod womper coil building classes. I build my own. I would not take pictures and post my artistically beautiful build pics because they are not. But they do work and my mods do not blow up, or shut down in protest. And smoke comes out of my mouth when I vape them. So I consider my building successfulThanks and I am in the same boat with building. I can but my builds are really straight forward and much of the time I hand that duty off to my trusted SIL (not really married but daughters fiance gets tiresome to write out even though I just did feel the need to
It only asks that if the new coil is >5% difference in resistance from the old coil.... But I've had no issues with new coils even if it didn't ask that.
I have found that the easiest way is to pull off the atty......press the fire button to "reset", turn the mod off (5 clicks) install new coil/atty, then turn back on..... This seems to give me a more accurate first reading, since it reads the coil live.... So it starts to read as soon as any contact is made.... If I don't turn it off I get too high of a reading to start, and it takes awhile to refine down.....well I wanna use it NOWZ! Turning it off lets me
My house was built in 2002 and the fridge is on it's own breaker. The oddest electrical failure I've ever had was back in 2010, I lost power to half of the outlets in my house. Called the electrician in and when he went to the breaker box, it turned out that one column of breakers had power and the other didn't. He went out to the meter and tested it and it turned out that one of the two electric supply lines coming to the house didn't have power. Ended up calling the electric utility, and they came out and hooked up some cart to my house that looked like those battery charger carts that garages use to jumpstart cars. They left that at my house until a week later when they isolated where the break was and they dug up my next door neighbor's lawn and fixed the break. Since the fault was in their lines, I was able to submit the bill for the electrician's service call and was reimbursed.
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