The Womper Woom OR You Might Be A Modwomper

[TrollDragon]

Thank you @TrollDragon . I'm honored

I grabbed a touch of 26, 28, and 32g Ni. Had NO clue what resistance to build so I read through other threads to see what others did. Hit up steam engine to get an idea of what number of wraps I needed.

Read that Ni should be spaced. Winged it. Yes, the velocity deck rocks. I guess I'll be looking at a mini or two

Too Fine!

I saw a Velocity Mini tonight with dual 6/5 wrap of 20g Kanthal, way too hot for me. The guy who uses it has a Twisted Messes with dual 16g 5 wraps on 4mm for 0.06Ω... He runs that on a Lethal box mod triple 18650's in parallel.

 

[Monotremata]

Not to detract from all the rad VF squonk talk but man, what a difference wicking makes!! After my mech incident yesterday, obviously it charred the crap out of my wick right in half.. Normally I use this yarn I got at Joann's Fabrics. Its 4 strands of cotton all twisted together, right around 2mm or so in diameter, and my coils are 2.5mm. Usually works perfectly fine for me.. I decided to try a good old cotton ball once again (havent used them in almost a year now).. Got a slightly bigger piece than my yarn wouldve been, it went through the coil pretty snug. Trimmed the edges to where they just hit the deck.. POOF I think my vapor production just tripled by going with a slightly fatter wick. I sneak vapes in my room when everyone else isnt around and man, the first couple of rips I took I couldnt even see my computer monitor in front of me! Couple times on the way to work this morning, I had to roll down the window because I couldnt see the lines in the freeway in front of me! Does the wicking really have that much effect on it? Obviously Im giving it more juice than my normal sized wick, but wow the clouds that come out now are gnarly thick and huge! Not anything cloud chaser worthy, but seriously, I have to blow them sideways in the car now or I have a few seconds where I cant see in front of me! Unfortunately it sucks down juice like nothing. I filled my 15ml dropper bottle last night before I went to bed since I had to work at 5am and usually get up just in time to leave hehe, and its already almost 2/3 gone. Think its time to buy some 120ml bottles now so I can make bigger batches of juice if Im gonna keep this up..

 

[chopdoc]

Not to detract from all the rad VF squonk talk but man, what a difference wicking makes!! After my mech incident yesterday, obviously it charred the crap out of my wick right in half.. Normally I use this yarn I got at Joann's Fabrics. Its 4 strands of cotton all twisted together, right around 2mm or so in diameter, and my coils are 2.5mm. Usually works perfectly fine for me.. I decided to try a good old cotton ball once again (havent used them in almost a year now).. Got a slightly bigger piece than my yarn wouldve been, it went through the coil pretty snug. Trimmed the edges to where they just hit the deck.. POOF I think my vapor production just tripled by going with a slightly fatter wick. I sneak vapes in my room when everyone else isnt around and man, the first couple of rips I took I couldnt even see my computer monitor in front of me! Couple times on the way to work this morning, I had to roll down the window because I couldnt see the lines in the freeway in front of me! Does the wicking really have that much effect on it? Obviously Im giving it more juice than my normal sized wick, but wow the clouds that come out now are gnarly thick and huge! Not anything cloud chaser worthy, but seriously, I have to blow them sideways in the car now or I have a few seconds where I cant see in front of me! Unfortunately it sucks down juice like nothing. I filled my 15ml dropper bottle last night before I went to bed since I had to work at 5am and usually get up just in time to leave hehe, and its already almost 2/3 gone. Think its time to buy some 120ml bottles now so I can make bigger batches of juice if Im gonna keep this up..

The more wick, the more juice to the coils, the more vapor production. I usually like a 3mm coil with enough wick where I can pull it thru without distorting the coil. I do that on tanks and RDA's and it does consume more juice, but the flavor is well worth it, and lots of clouds too. After 40 years of smoking I dont have the lung capacity for huge mega weather changing clouds but I can still fog up a room pretty quick.

 

[TrollDragon]

Not to detract from all the rad VF squonk talk but man, what a difference wicking makes!! After my mech incident yesterday, obviously it charred the crap out of my wick right in half.. Normally I use this yarn I got at Joann's Fabrics. Its 4 strands of cotton all twisted together, right around 2mm or so in diameter, and my coils are 2.5mm. Usually works perfectly fine for me.. I decided to try a good old cotton ball once again (havent used them in almost a year now).. Got a slightly bigger piece than my yarn wouldve been, it went through the coil pretty snug. Trimmed the edges to where they just hit the deck.. POOF I think my vapor production just tripled by going with a slightly fatter wick. I sneak vapes in my room when everyone else isnt around and man, the first couple of rips I took I couldnt even see my computer monitor in front of me! Couple times on the way to work this morning, I had to roll down the window because I couldnt see the lines in the freeway in front of me! Does the wicking really have that much effect on it? Obviously Im giving it more juice than my normal sized wick, but wow the clouds that come out now are gnarly thick and huge! Not anything cloud chaser worthy, but seriously, I have to blow them sideways in the car now or I have a few seconds where I cant see in front of me! Unfortunately it sucks down juice like nothing. I filled my 15ml dropper bottle last night before I went to bed since I had to work at 5am and usually get up just in time to leave hehe, and its already almost 2/3 gone. Think its time to buy some 120ml bottles now so I can make bigger batches of juice if Im gonna keep this up..

I have seen posts about the cotton yarn before in older threads about trying different wicking materials. I didn't think anyone still used it.

You need to step into the Rayon thread and check out the superior wicking and resilience of Rayon.

 

[Johntodd]

Yes to rayon! One of the single biggest improvements to my vape since I started vaping.

 

[TrollDragon]

Well I managed to get a fix for the TC problems on the eVic VTC Mini... It's called an IPV D2.
I'll wait and see if there will be a new firmware update to address the TC issues on the VTC.

 

[Boden]

Well I managed to get a fix for the TC problems on the eVic VTC Mini... It's called an IPV D2.
I'll wait and see if there will be a new firmware update to address the TC issues on the VTC.

Strange.. I'm not having any temp control issues with the VTC mini. The hotter and cooler buttons work just fine

 

[TrollDragon]

Strange.. I'm not having any temp control issues with the VTC mini. The hotter and cooler buttons work just fine

Excellent!

What a lot of us have found over on the eVic VTC mini thread is:
Put room temperature atty on the mini with it's temp unlocked and let it detect the temperature, I do this and it detects the Ni 200 build at 0.2 ohms. I vape it at 380F/20-25W and it provides a warm excellent vape and does not trigger temperature protection till the wick is dry.

Now let the mini go to sleep and the atty to cool down. I hit the fire button to wake it up and the resistance has dropped to 0.11 ohms, now this thing vapes very similar to an eVod and hits temperature protection constantly after the first second. You have to turn the temperature up to 550F to get any sort of decent vape in this mode.

Unscrew the atty and let it cool, hit the fire button a few times to reset the resistance back to zero. Screw the atty back on and it detects 0.2 ohms again. I hit the fire button, the VTC asks New Coil? I say yes and have a wonderful vape at 380F without ever entering temperature protection. Until the mini goes to sleep again.

This can be recreated all day and does not matter if resistance is locked or not. It's not just the Kayfun V4 that has this problem, it also does it on fixed pin toppers like the FeV V3, Origen Dripper V2, Mutation X V3 and the CCI Militia.

I tried building with Ni 200 down into the 0.07 ohm range but that was even worse and you can only fit a 0.15 ohm 28g Ni 200 build so many places...

I put that same topper on the IPV D2 set it to 400F/30J and vape away without issue, there is definitely a firmware or hardware problem with many of the VTC mini's.

 

[Boden]

Excellent!

What a lot of us have found over on the eVic VTC mini thread is:
Put room temperature atty on the mini with it's temp unlocked and let it detect the temperature, I do this and it detects the Ni 200 build at 0.2 ohms. I vape it at 380F/20-25W and it provides a warm excellent vape and does not trigger temperature protection till the wick is dry.

Now let the mini go to sleep and the atty to cool down. I hit the fire button to wake it up and the resistance has dropped to 0.11 ohms, now this thing vapes very similar to an eVod and hits temperature protection constantly after the first second. You have to turn the temperature up to 550F to get any sort of decent vape in this mode.

Unscrew the atty and let it cool, hit the fire button a few times to reset the resistance back to zero. Screw the atty back on and it detects 0.2 ohms again. I hit the fire button, the VTC asks New Coil? I say yes and have a wonderful vape at 380F without ever entering temperature protection. Until the mini goes to sleep again.

This can be recreated all day and does not matter if resistance is locked or not. It's not just the Kayfun V4 that has this problem, it also does it on fixed pin toppers like the FeV V3, Origen Dripper V2, Mutation X V3 and the CCI Militia.

I tried building with Ni 200 down into the 0.07 ohm range but that was even worse and you can only fit a 0.15 ohm 28g Ni 200 build so many places...

I put that same topper on the IPV D2 set it to 400F/30J and vape away without issue, there is definitely a firmware or hardware problem with many of the VTC mini's.

I read about that.

I was joking about the kanthal temp controls working just fine

 

[TrollDragon]

I read about that.

I was joking about the kanthal temp controls working just fine

Ha Ha I didn't realize you meant Kanthal, in power mode or bypass mode the mini works like a dream!

 

[DingerCPA]

Master @TrollDragon - I will be getting another TC device (non-BF) and I'm curious as to how you're setting up your KFs? Wire, resistance, diameter? I think that will go incredibly far in the avoidance of the "dry-hit" world (since I can't seem to get my wicking completely correct with a kanthal build.)

TIA

 

[Boden]

Master @TrollDragon - I will be getting another TC device (non-BF) and I'm curious as to how you're setting up your KFs? Wire, resistance, diameter? I think that will go incredibly far in the avoidance of the "dry-hit" world (since I can't seem to get my wicking completely correct with a kanthal build.)

TIA

I can give you my never fail Kayfun kanthal wicking technique if you like.

 

[DingerCPA]

I can give you my never fail Kayfun kanthal wicking technique if you like.

Yes, please and thank you!

ETA - I have a KF Lite (clone) with NO additional airflow - this seems to be my bane. Also have a KF 3.1ES (clone) which does much better - seems to flow the juice a bit better.

I typically build a 3/32 coil - used to be 30g, but now 28g, and the slightly larger diameter coil has helped, but not always. I suppose I could go to 2.5 or 3mm. Haven't tried in a long time

 

[Boden]

Yes, please and thank you!

Is easy

But first what PG/VG ratio are you using and how many watts do you like to use? And which Kayfun are you using.

 

[TrollDragon]

Master @TrollDragon - I will be getting another TC device (non-BF) and I'm curious as to how you're setting up your KFs? Wire, resistance, diameter? I think that will go incredibly far in the avoidance of the "dry-hit" world (since I can't seem to get my wicking completely correct with a kanthal build.)

TIA

Many thanks but I am far from Master status...

My Kayfun Undead (Commercial version of a modified EHPro with two extra air holes and a drilled center pin) & my 3.1 always get a 1.3Ω, 7 wrap, 28g contact coil wrapped on 2.5mm and run at 15W. They are either wicked with Japanese Cotton or Rayon depending on available time and my mood.

With KGD style cotton I cut off a strip twice as wide as the coil, peel off both outer skins as thin as possible, twist and pull the cotton through the coil. I use a fingernail to hold the coil in place while wicking. Bunny ear the ends up through the chimney bottom, cut and tuck. Make sure you pull the cotton away from juice channel opening at the edge of the deck.

With Rayon there is more work involved, and a lot of it is from experience using the "Right Amount" of Rayon. Once it is pulled through the coil (A denser amount than the KGD as Rayon shrinks) I bend the ends over and trim them a little past the deck. Split the wick end horizontally into two sections, 70% on top and 30% on the bottom. Cut the top part off a couple of mm away from the edge of the coil and trim the bottom part to be touching the deck. Do this for both sides. Wet the wick with liquid and make sure the bottom (tail) section of the wick is up against the coil block wall and also onto the deck. Put your chimney bottom back on carefully and center the Rayon after it is on, making sure the tail is not near the juice channel opening.

See what I mean about available time and mood...

If I were to run TC on either of those I would get some Titanium T1 wire. It is stiffer and springier to work with but you can make contact coils and it doesn't require 185 wraps like Ni 200 does, unless your using 30g or 32g Ni, but those are so tiny and soft to try and wick. I have some coming in the mail from Unkamen 26g &28g. There are other choices as well such as Spider Silk but it only comes in 26g and Crazy Wire who makes a 29g.

I'll let you know how the Ti wire works out in my Kayfuns when it arrives.

Hope this helps some.

 

[AndriaD]

Excellent!

What a lot of us have found over on the eVic VTC mini thread is:
Put room temperature atty on the mini with it's temp unlocked and let it detect the temperature, I do this and it detects the Ni 200 build at 0.2 ohms. I vape it at 380F/20-25W and it provides a warm excellent vape and does not trigger temperature protection till the wick is dry.

Now let the mini go to sleep and the atty to cool down. I hit the fire button to wake it up and the resistance has dropped to 0.11 ohms, now this thing vapes very similar to an eVod and hits temperature protection constantly after the first second. You have to turn the temperature up to 550F to get any sort of decent vape in this mode.

Unscrew the atty and let it cool, hit the fire button a few times to reset the resistance back to zero. Screw the atty back on and it detects 0.2 ohms again. I hit the fire button, the VTC asks New Coil? I say yes and have a wonderful vape at 380F without ever entering temperature protection. Until the mini goes to sleep again.

This can be recreated all day and does not matter if resistance is locked or not. It's not just the Kayfun V4 that has this problem, it also does it on fixed pin toppers like the FeV V3, Origen Dripper V2, Mutation X V3 and the CCI Militia.

I tried building with Ni 200 down into the 0.07 ohm range but that was even worse and you can only fit a 0.15 ohm 28g Ni 200 build so many places...

I put that same topper on the IPV D2 set it to 400F/30J and vape away without issue, there is definitely a firmware or hardware problem with many of the VTC mini's.

Sounds a LOT like what its big brother Evic does -- works fine when first setup, as long as you keep hittng it on a regular basis -- but let it sit unused for 15+ minutes, and it just goes straight to hell.

I'm done with TC until I can afford an SX Mini M.

Andria

 

[AndriaD]

Not to detract from all the rad VF squonk talk but man, what a difference wicking makes!! After my mech incident yesterday, obviously it charred the crap out of my wick right in half.. Normally I use this yarn I got at Joann's Fabrics. Its 4 strands of cotton all twisted together, right around 2mm or so in diameter, and my coils are 2.5mm. Usually works perfectly fine for me.. I decided to try a good old cotton ball once again (havent used them in almost a year now).. Got a slightly bigger piece than my yarn wouldve been, it went through the coil pretty snug. Trimmed the edges to where they just hit the deck.. POOF I think my vapor production just tripled by going with a slightly fatter wick. I sneak vapes in my room when everyone else isnt around and man, the first couple of rips I took I couldnt even see my computer monitor in front of me! Couple times on the way to work this morning, I had to roll down the window because I couldnt see the lines in the freeway in front of me! Does the wicking really have that much effect on it? Obviously Im giving it more juice than my normal sized wick, but wow the clouds that come out now are gnarly thick and huge! Not anything cloud chaser worthy, but seriously, I have to blow them sideways in the car now or I have a few seconds where I cant see in front of me! Unfortunately it sucks down juice like nothing. I filled my 15ml dropper bottle last night before I went to bed since I had to work at 5am and usually get up just in time to leave hehe, and its already almost 2/3 gone. Think its time to buy some 120ml bottles now so I can make bigger batches of juice if Im gonna keep this up..

Was that cotton ball "organic cotton"? If not... organic cotton is as big a step-up as the cotton ball was to the yarn. If you got the japanese cotton pads, then not only is the flavor better, but it even wicks better. If the cotton ball you used is organic cotton... then the flavor with the JOC pads is much the same, but the wicking is better.

Andria

 

[TrollDragon]

Sounds a LOT like what its big brother Evic does -- works fine when first setup, as long as you keep hittng it on a regular basis -- but let it sit unused for 15+ minutes, and it just goes straight to hell.

I'm done with TC until I can afford an SX Mini M.

Andria

They say it is a very similar problem indeed and some of the temporary fixes for the VTC mini came right from the VT thread.

An SX Mini M Class would be sweet but that DNA 200 stuff looks mighty fine and the new SX Mini ML Class might be one to wait for.
https://ecig-city.com/shop/sx-mini-ml-class-pre-order/

 

[AndriaD]

They say it is a very similar problem indeed and some of the temporary fixes for the VTC mini came right from the VT thread.

An SX Mini M Class would be sweet but that DNA 200 stuff looks mighty fine and the new SX Mini ML Class might be one to wait for.
https://ecig-city.com/shop/sx-mini-ml-class-pre-order/

It doesn't give any info on how it differs from the M class -- and it's $200. What I'm hoping is that these $200 ones become so popular that the prices on the M class drop below $100. That's why I always wait -- some new thing will come along and make the old thing really cheap. (which is why I have an i5 computer and not an i7!)

Andria

 

[DingerCPA]

Is easy

But first what PG/VG ratio are you using and how many watts do you like to use? And which Kayfun are you using.

Typically anything from 20P/80V to 30P/70V. I will build around 1.5 ohms, running about 10-12W. I have better success with the 3.1ES (Fasttech clone) than I do with my KF Lite (also a Fasttech clone.)