The Womper Woom, Womp it again Sam.

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Boden

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Sep 7, 2012
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Not insulted at all :) I learn a lot from your posts (the ones I understand :facepalm:), and if I had a question about coils, watts, volts, thermodynamics, etc, you would be the first person I would ask. You are a valuable asset to us all with your knowledge. Thank You for all the knowledge you have imparted to us all. :D
Wait..what, somebody learned something.. I won't do that again.

While waiting for things and stuff I banged out a first stage prototype yesterday.

Before you ask, the Sharpie buttons and screen don't work ;)
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TrollDragon

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New to me, probably old hat to most of you.

Strange little problem with the VT133 jumping out of TC while using the Crius Plus (V-Deck) and a dual 24g SS316L build at 0.20Ω. The VT133 read it as 0.21Ω and all seemed fine until you fired the build. The temperature reading would jump to 5 digits 413?? and then switch to OFF. I removed the RTA, reset the resistance and put the RTA back on, same problem. Pulled the deck checked the coils for cut leads and made sure the grub screws were tight, all good.

Put it back on the VT133 and same problem. The Crius vaped fine at 65W in power mode so I know it couldn't be the build. I tried it on the VT75 and found the same problem...
Bingo :idea:

The base of the Crius Plus has interchangeable decks. Conductivity is made with a moveable brass pin through a rubber grommet on the 510 connector, this butts up against the decks main post. I had cleaned both of those with a piece of paper towel when I put the build in and they were not dirty. So I took the deck out again and applied a little 600 grit wet/dry paper to both the ends of 510 pins and deck post.

Put it all back together, the VT133 read it as 0.20Ω , hit the fire button and it's all working perfectly now. The pins didn't look corroded at all, but there must have been just enough to cause a big jump in resistance and the VT133 to kick out of TC.

This is the first time I have experienced the DNA jumping out of TC and I'll have to watch the Crius to see if it does it again.
 

LJFinFLA

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Jul 9, 2014
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New to me, probably old hat to most of you.

Strange little problem with the VT133 jumping out of TC while using the Crius Plus (V-Deck) and a dual 24g SS316L build at 0.20Ω. The VT133 read it as 0.21Ω and all seemed fine until you fired the build. The temperature reading would jump to 5 digits 413?? and then switch to OFF. I removed the RTA, reset the resistance and put the RTA back on, same problem. Pulled the deck checked the coils for cut leads and made sure the grub screws were tight, all good.

Put it back on the VT133 and same problem. The Crius vaped fine at 65W in power mode so I know it couldn't be the build. I tried it on the VT75 and found the same problem...
Bingo :idea:

The base of the Crius Plus has interchangeable decks. Conductivity is made with a moveable brass pin through a rubber grommet on the 510 connector, this butts up against the decks main post. I had cleaned both of those with a piece of paper towel when I put the build in and they were not dirty. So I took the deck out again and applied a little 600 grit wet/dry paper to both the ends of 510 pins and deck post.

Put it all back together, the VT133 read it as 0.20Ω , hit the fire button and it's all working perfectly now. The pins didn't look corroded at all, but there must have been just enough to cause a big jump in resistance and the VT133 to kick out of TC.

This is the first time I have experienced the DNA jumping out of TC and I'll have to watch the Crius to see if it does it again.

Thanks for the heads up Troll. I don't have a Crius and I haven't had any problems with the VT133. It's good to know that there's a solution should it happen. I have a question for you about the Hohm Wrecker G2. Vapercube has them on sale. Are they worth the buy? I mean am I going to go WOW or just say it's another box mod?
 

TrollDragon

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Thanks for the heads up Troll. I don't have a Crius and I haven't had any problems with the VT133. It's good to know that there's a solution should it happen. I have a question for you about the Hohm Wrecker G2. Vapercube has them on sale. Are they worth the buy? I mean am I going to go WOW or just say it's another box mod?
I love my Wrecker G2 LE!
I wouldn't say it's a WOW mod... But...

Say you have been vaping your dripper. Occupied with something else at the same time and reached for your vape forgetting to drip... Halfway through that 100W pull the wick goes bone dry and you are left with that lovely yummy burn!

The VT133 would happily continue to drive power to the coils, where the G2 would cut power to them before the dry hit. Were talking Kanthal or NiCr build here, both units would temp protect on TC wire.

The first time that happened to me on a Kanthal Clapton build, it was a WOW, big smile moment. So yeah the G2 has some WOW factor to it. :thumbs:

The DNA mods are full automatic, you just fire them up and go, hit cruise control and run all day.
The FSK mods have automatic TC modes just like the DNA's do, if you are running TC wire then the default settings work excellent. When you switch over to Kanthal or NiCr TC then you can try the automatic settings or adjust the FSK curve manually in xXx mode.

Build quality is excellent and they HOHM Tech is reported to have a great customer service.
A lot of people don't like ohm and M/F symbols around edge or the the dated box style. It is all CNC'ed aluminum, no plastic, not even the buttons.

You can get a better price right from HT web store using the coupons.
G2WRECKER65OFF for new ones ($65)
HΩ Wrecker G2 (Hohm Wrecker) 171W Temperature Control Box Mod

G2REFB for the factory refurbished ones ($54).
HΩ Wrecker G2 (Hohm Wrecker) 171W Temperature Control Box Mod Manufacture Refurbished
 

TrollDragon

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Crius Plus Update:

The Crius Plus has been kicking me out of TC on the VT133. I has to do with the resistance changing on the mod because of that Kanger grommet type floating 510 pin in the base. I cleaned it earlier and it lasted for a couple of hours but kicked me out again.

So I popped out the brass 510 pin and the rubber grommet.

I figured if I put the 510 pin and grommet in from the other side of the base, the deck post would push against it with more tension or an o-ring could be installed under the pin to raise it. Shades of WeeLeaf iStick 20W floating pin here...

The brass pin's head is a little too close in base walls for my liking. I mounted it in my drill and turned the head diameter down a millimeter to give it more clearance. Reassembled the Crius Plus and so far TC is working properly again on the VT133.

Time will tell...
 

Atchafalaya

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