Remove the old wick. It's amazing what warm water and a toothbrush can do to a bare coil left on the atomizer deck. Then put a new wick and vape on.
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Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
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Titanium wires
- Thread starter imeothanasis
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you have to change your coil cali. Burning wires was never an option. Maybe a dangerous attitute
I don't get it. Titanium coils don't get so dirty so fast if we remember two things: temperature shouldn''t get crazy, and the juice shouldn't contain too much flavoring.
Starting at 100% solvents, no flavoring, no nicotine, and keeping the temperature below Farenheit 450, Ti coils would be good for a couple months, easily. Adding flavoring they get encrusted but with flavoring below 10% it's really minimal. Same with temperature. More flavoring and heat gets 'em dirtier. To me that's a message: keep it clean & keep it cool.
As to cleaning, this paranoia about Titanium oxides is not for me. That white stuff is even used on donuts! Still, I see no reason to get 'em red hot either. I just get 'em warm enough with a TC Mod, dip in water, pick off any crap with a little file and repeat. Old toothbrush with baking soda's very good too. They emerge nice and clean.
TRUE CONFESSION!
I just cleaned the Ti coil on my black Tobeco Kayfun V4. I have been using it in TC mode on either one of my KangXin VF minis since August 8th. The other VF mini is running in VW mode with a 28 gauge kanthal coil, on a silver Kayfun V4 and the same everything else. I swap 'em, one VF mini is grey metal, the other dark green. This set been all over Europe on this trip. Plane, Metro, Buses, Rental Car, walking, you name it.
I am a sneak of low profile stealth-vaping. I even vape on 'effing Lufthansa. Anybody who vapes on planes knows them Luftwaffe byatches are the worst. Before there even was a policy, and before most people had even heard of e-cigarettes, back in the days when you could just vape away in your seat and the stewardess would at most say "what is THAT?", a steely blue eyed Lufthansa byatch took one look at my rig and gargled: "Dass ist Verboten!" So let me tell you, when you vape on Lufthansa, you take your life is your hansa! Anyway I vape a lot, and I vape everywhere. On planes, BTW, one secret is the little blue blanket.
So last month I went through 4 50 ml bottles of my own Banana Macaroon juice. It's all VG, 5-6% flavoring, zero nicotine, and for viscosity reduction we tap in: a few drops of Bicardi 151 rum. Today I opened the black Kayfun and removed the darkened Japanese cotton wick. It practically fell apart. I cleaned the Ti coil, mostly with baking soda and an old toothbrush. No deformation, just used a 7/64ths drillbit for added rigidity. The wire is 28 gauge Spider Silk. There are 9 wraps on a 7/64ths bit, it reads 0.35 Ohms. When building, the Spider Silk Ti wire is clean and ready to use right off the reel, though it never hurts to wipe it with 90% alcohol.
After the month's hard use, and the cleaning, it came up sparkling. So I rolled and I shredded a new Koh Gen Doh cotton wick into place, put it all back together, poured in some Macaroon, set the temp to 310 F, watts to 10.0 (those are mellow settings), and off we go. On a TC mod that lacks a Ti setting, temp should be set somewhere like 100 degrees F below your desired temperature, they say. It's been working alright so far for me.
No need to make a new coil, and MAN, does it taste good!!!! Banana and almonds and vanilla, caramel, sweet honey and rum. For cloud-chasing the wattage goes up to 30, the temp stays at 310F. That makes it ramp up fast and hard. These XD50 chips they use on the KangXin VF mini and some others allow setting wattage and temperature independently. Plus the behavior of a temp-control feedback system in an enclosed tank is a bit of a mystery I think.
I've seen some pretty crudded-up coils, and I'm not sure if it's more due to excessive temp or excessive flavoring. I suspect both. With too high a temperature the flavoring loses definition, it was never designed for that, so people use more, that cruds up the coil more, and so on.
Starting at 100% solvents, no flavoring, no nicotine, and keeping the temperature below Farenheit 450, Ti coils would be good for a couple months, easily. Adding flavoring they get encrusted but with flavoring below 10% it's really minimal. Same with temperature. More flavoring and heat gets 'em dirtier. To me that's a message: keep it clean & keep it cool.
As to cleaning, this paranoia about Titanium oxides is not for me. That white stuff is even used on donuts! Still, I see no reason to get 'em red hot either. I just get 'em warm enough with a TC Mod, dip in water, pick off any crap with a little file and repeat. Old toothbrush with baking soda's very good too. They emerge nice and clean.
TRUE CONFESSION!
I just cleaned the Ti coil on my black Tobeco Kayfun V4. I have been using it in TC mode on either one of my KangXin VF minis since August 8th. The other VF mini is running in VW mode with a 28 gauge kanthal coil, on a silver Kayfun V4 and the same everything else. I swap 'em, one VF mini is grey metal, the other dark green. This set been all over Europe on this trip. Plane, Metro, Buses, Rental Car, walking, you name it.
I am a sneak of low profile stealth-vaping. I even vape on 'effing Lufthansa. Anybody who vapes on planes knows them Luftwaffe byatches are the worst. Before there even was a policy, and before most people had even heard of e-cigarettes, back in the days when you could just vape away in your seat and the stewardess would at most say "what is THAT?", a steely blue eyed Lufthansa byatch took one look at my rig and gargled: "Dass ist Verboten!" So let me tell you, when you vape on Lufthansa, you take your life is your hansa! Anyway I vape a lot, and I vape everywhere. On planes, BTW, one secret is the little blue blanket.
So last month I went through 4 50 ml bottles of my own Banana Macaroon juice. It's all VG, 5-6% flavoring, zero nicotine, and for viscosity reduction we tap in: a few drops of Bicardi 151 rum. Today I opened the black Kayfun and removed the darkened Japanese cotton wick. It practically fell apart. I cleaned the Ti coil, mostly with baking soda and an old toothbrush. No deformation, just used a 7/64ths drillbit for added rigidity. The wire is 28 gauge Spider Silk. There are 9 wraps on a 7/64ths bit, it reads 0.35 Ohms. When building, the Spider Silk Ti wire is clean and ready to use right off the reel, though it never hurts to wipe it with 90% alcohol.
After the month's hard use, and the cleaning, it came up sparkling. So I rolled and I shredded a new Koh Gen Doh cotton wick into place, put it all back together, poured in some Macaroon, set the temp to 310 F, watts to 10.0 (those are mellow settings), and off we go. On a TC mod that lacks a Ti setting, temp should be set somewhere like 100 degrees F below your desired temperature, they say. It's been working alright so far for me.
No need to make a new coil, and MAN, does it taste good!!!! Banana and almonds and vanilla, caramel, sweet honey and rum. For cloud-chasing the wattage goes up to 30, the temp stays at 310F. That makes it ramp up fast and hard. These XD50 chips they use on the KangXin VF mini and some others allow setting wattage and temperature independently. Plus the behavior of a temp-control feedback system in an enclosed tank is a bit of a mystery I think.
I've seen some pretty crudded-up coils, and I'm not sure if it's more due to excessive temp or excessive flavoring. I suspect both. With too high a temperature the flavoring loses definition, it was never designed for that, so people use more, that cruds up the coil more, and so on.
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I just received today Ti grade 1 from ESG. I have two questions:
1. How in the name of God can you make a decent coil out of Ti grade 1?!?! I didn't see anything so SPRINGY! It is unbelievable springy! I worked with kanthal, Ti grade 2, Ni200, all of them are manageable, but Ti grade 1 is impossible.
2. The biggest surprise was the resistance; 6 shabby wraps around 2.5mm shaft reads 1.7 ohms!!! I thought Ti grade 1 has a lower resistance than Ti grade 2. 6 wraps of Ti grade 2 on a 2.5mm shaft gives me a constant 0.6 ohms. Why this wire with grade 1 has more than twice the resistance?
1. How in the name of God can you make a decent coil out of Ti grade 1?!?! I didn't see anything so SPRINGY! It is unbelievable springy! I worked with kanthal, Ti grade 2, Ni200, all of them are manageable, but Ti grade 1 is impossible.
2. The biggest surprise was the resistance; 6 shabby wraps around 2.5mm shaft reads 1.7 ohms!!! I thought Ti grade 1 has a lower resistance than Ti grade 2. 6 wraps of Ti grade 2 on a 2.5mm shaft gives me a constant 0.6 ohms. Why this wire with grade 1 has more than twice the resistance?
I use Ti G1, 26ga, 6 wraps on 2.5mm for my Subtank Mini builds. It's a little more springy than Kanthal - but not that much. Mine come out around .6Ω.
Hi calinbotez,
yes for sure Ti grade 1 is springy.
You have to train your fingers a little bit
Imeo make the ti 1 coils very fast now and very good,I for example are not so good
but i will learn it.Maybe Imeo can make a video for all of us how he make his ti coils
As for the resistance you did something wrong, maybe you have a short?
You need to wrap around a smaller mandrel, if you want 2mm inside diameter you should wrap around something about 1.8 mm. This way when the coil springs back it will be about 2mm and your calculated resistance (if using a calculator) should be close to accurate.
Ti 1 is not springy at all guys. I dont know why you say that. In fact its less springy than kanthal! And it has low resistance.
Maybe you didnt bought T1 but something else that is springy and with big resistance. You have to be careful.
Maybe you didnt bought T1 but something else that is springy and with big resistance. You have to be careful.
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I don't know Imeo, I have seen this stated time and time again. Have you tested other sources of wire?
Perhaps it's just your preferred gauge is less springy than others.
Imeo, it's strange, because you said that all Ti grade 1 wire from ESG is from you! I bought from ESG. It's springy and definitely it has bigger resistance than normal. I bought 28 gauge wire. Maybe you can check yourself this wire.
P.S.: you said that is less springy than kanthal. The Ti wire I got from ESG is more, more, more springy than kanthal.
P.S.: you said that is less springy than kanthal. The Ti wire I got from ESG is more, more, more springy than kanthal.
F1 and Cali, I didnt know that esmokeguru sells this wire. But I do said that Ti 1 comes from me, meaning that real Ti comes from me. Maybe esmokeguru brought his own T1 wire on his site without my knowledge that is not real Ti. Maybe he got fooled by Chinese people.
I am not always sure what my sellers sell, so you have to always ask the seller about what you buy if its not a GG product. Better ask if it comes from me.
I am not always sure what my sellers sell, so you have to always ask the seller about what you buy if its not a GG product. Better ask if it comes from me.
Yes, Ti wire is a bit springy, but it certainly should be manageable.
Titanium grade 1 resistivity is pretty close to grade 2, maybe slightly lower. With 28 gauge Ti, 6 wraps around 2.5mm should give you around 0.4 Ohm. So this looks like a contact problem to me. Check the wire screws are tight and the 510 connection is solid. If you are using Tilemahos v2: make sure the center post extension isn't loose. You may also try to screw in the 510 pin completely for better contact.
If nothing helps, check the wire: 100mm of 28g Ti G1 wire should have something like 0.6 Ohm.
Remember that Titanium resistance increases with temperature. Therefore, make sure the wire is at room temperature when measuring. Otherwise, your results will be useless.
24g grade 1 is easier Ti wire to work with and get a low resistance.
I have 9 wraps on a 2.5mm kuro coiler, it comes out at 0.5ohms.
Run the wire quickly through a gas flame, don't let it get hot, only yellow or blue color.
The springiness will be mostly gone.
I have 9 wraps on a 2.5mm kuro coiler, it comes out at 0.5ohms.
Run the wire quickly through a gas flame, don't let it get hot, only yellow or blue color.
The springiness will be mostly gone.
I put 100mm Ti G1 wire from ESG on a Kayfun Lite Plus, just a loop, not a coil, just for measuring the resistance. It says 2.06 ohms.
Same test (a loop of wire, 100mm long, held in the screws, no shortcuts, no anything) with Tilemahos V2 base, and with Tilemahos V2+ base. It reads 2.07 ohms. All screws are tightened.
What kind of Ti grade 1 wire is this?
I wonder if @calinbotez got Ti or maybe something else?
It's like pink or anythink, you don't really know what you got.
Considering the absurd prices Ti wire fetches, it's
not surprising if people fake it.
I have Ti grade 1 wire from Galllium Source
and Spider Silk wire from envyCIG.com a.k.a.
"wire by envy". Both are about 28 gauge and are
thus supposed to be 0.40 mm. I use 28 gauge
all around. It's a good general thickness wire,
and using the same gauge makes things easier.
The gallium Source wire is 0.38 mm and uneven. It's
coated with machining oils, no big deal but at these
prices they should clean it. Resistance is around
0.044 ohms per linear cm. It's a bit rough-looking.
The Spider Silk is more even, 0.40 mm thick and
0.040 ohms/cm, shiny and much cleaner. I object
to the misinformation they spread, like the idea
that cleaning wire with acids could leave residue
of hydrofluoric acid. That's nonsense because HF
is so reactive it reacts with everything and couldn't
possibly remain on the wire, the packaging, anything.
Their BS aside, their wire is of good quality.
Neither Ti wire seemed especially unmanageable
or springy. I had far more trouble with plain Nickel,
and was happier with "tempered" nickel wire. That is,
until (after a week or more) I started feeling like I
was breathing something less than ideal, with pains
in my chest, and so I switched to Titanium, whereupon
all this discomfort disappeared.
The resistance of 28 gauge Tempered Nickel measured
0.0124 ohms per linear centimeter. If you have a
decent ohm meter you can check the resistance
of what you have before winding a coil.
A 10 centimeter length of 28 gauge (0.40 mm) thick
Ni200 Nickel wire should measure around 0.12 ohms.
A 10 cm length of 28 gauge (0.40mm) grade 1
Titanium wire should measure around 0.40 ohms.
It's like pink or anythink, you don't really know what you got.
Considering the absurd prices Ti wire fetches, it's
not surprising if people fake it.
I have Ti grade 1 wire from Galllium Source
and Spider Silk wire from envyCIG.com a.k.a.
"wire by envy". Both are about 28 gauge and are
thus supposed to be 0.40 mm. I use 28 gauge
all around. It's a good general thickness wire,
and using the same gauge makes things easier.
The gallium Source wire is 0.38 mm and uneven. It's
coated with machining oils, no big deal but at these
prices they should clean it. Resistance is around
0.044 ohms per linear cm. It's a bit rough-looking.
The Spider Silk is more even, 0.40 mm thick and
0.040 ohms/cm, shiny and much cleaner. I object
to the misinformation they spread, like the idea
that cleaning wire with acids could leave residue
of hydrofluoric acid. That's nonsense because HF
is so reactive it reacts with everything and couldn't
possibly remain on the wire, the packaging, anything.
Their BS aside, their wire is of good quality.
Neither Ti wire seemed especially unmanageable
or springy. I had far more trouble with plain Nickel,
and was happier with "tempered" nickel wire. That is,
until (after a week or more) I started feeling like I
was breathing something less than ideal, with pains
in my chest, and so I switched to Titanium, whereupon
all this discomfort disappeared.
The resistance of 28 gauge Tempered Nickel measured
0.0124 ohms per linear centimeter. If you have a
decent ohm meter you can check the resistance
of what you have before winding a coil.
A 10 centimeter length of 28 gauge (0.40 mm) thick
Ni200 Nickel wire should measure around 0.12 ohms.
A 10 cm length of 28 gauge (0.40mm) grade 1
Titanium wire should measure around 0.40 ohms.
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Not all titanium wires are the same guys.
When you want to bring a new product to the market, you have to think first and thats what I did as I always do.
About titanium. Why we brought it to the market:
1. biocompatible, so suitable to vaping
2. it can be made in wires
3. It can be made in diameters suitable to vaping
4. It doesnt have zero resistance
5. It has lower resistance than nichrome and kanthal, something we like because we can make more threads, so better smoke and taste
6. It had great temperature coefficient for the upcoming Proteus
7. Its not VERY springy but it is more than nichrome and kanthal. (So I had to find a way to make it NO springy)
These factors make titanium the best wire for vaping. But there are so many titanium wires out there, so I had to take some more decisions. What grade, how clear, based on what standard, and I had to find a way to make it less springy. Also I had to see if factories can keep the same quality in every batch.
My decisions were:
Grade 1, that is the most clear
But even if grade 1 is the most clear, there are grade 1 wires that are more clear than others. The clearness was between 99 and 99,8%. I choose the last one.
The standard that I based was ASTM B863
The way to stop its springness? I annealed it. Easy and healthy procedure.
Thats how a product must come to the market. Not just "titanium wire". And thats how my wires are made.
I suppose that all sellers around the world will do it like this now that they have learned what they have to do, so you will be able to buy the right stuff
When you want to bring a new product to the market, you have to think first and thats what I did as I always do.
About titanium. Why we brought it to the market:
1. biocompatible, so suitable to vaping
2. it can be made in wires
3. It can be made in diameters suitable to vaping
4. It doesnt have zero resistance
5. It has lower resistance than nichrome and kanthal, something we like because we can make more threads, so better smoke and taste
6. It had great temperature coefficient for the upcoming Proteus
7. Its not VERY springy but it is more than nichrome and kanthal. (So I had to find a way to make it NO springy)
These factors make titanium the best wire for vaping. But there are so many titanium wires out there, so I had to take some more decisions. What grade, how clear, based on what standard, and I had to find a way to make it less springy. Also I had to see if factories can keep the same quality in every batch.
My decisions were:
Grade 1, that is the most clear
But even if grade 1 is the most clear, there are grade 1 wires that are more clear than others. The clearness was between 99 and 99,8%. I choose the last one.
The standard that I based was ASTM B863
The way to stop its springness? I annealed it. Easy and healthy procedure.
Thats how a product must come to the market. Not just "titanium wire". And thats how my wires are made.
I suppose that all sellers around the world will do it like this now that they have learned what they have to do, so you will be able to buy the right stuff
Where can I find your Titanium wire? You said that we must ask the vendors. I don't think asking the vendor is OK, because many people read this forum. Including some vendors. They can say their wire is from Imeo, this not being the truth. The best idea, in my opinion, is you publishing here all the vendors that purchased the Ti wire from you, so we know where to buy. Otherwise, it would be trial and error, wasting money, as I already did with ESG. I ordered two days ago from your store in Spain, let's hope that their wire is OK.
Bingo! We have a winner.
Annealed Ti G1 is, at least to my perception, softer than kanthal. Almost no springback.
Hello imeo
I asked Vassilis @ESG to ask you for me for Grade 1, 0.4mil. I hope you can supply him.
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