Tootle Puffers, Part Three! (The Sequel of the Redux)
- Thread starter Katdarling
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
I'll take that as a yes!
You have a short
It's not reading anything, the tester is turned off...What's wrong with this coil? It's reading 0.00
Try turning it on and seeing what it reads
Niiiiiice!!! Anything intetesting?When it rains it pours.
Vapemail!!
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It's not reading anything, the tester is turned off...
Try turning it on and seeing what it reads
Oh I know that. I had just turned it off
Ah, ok... Now THAT's a shortOh I know that. I had just turned it off
Looks like a do-over to me. Keep in mind, you don't want those coils to be much below 1.2 ohms. They use a rubber insulator and if the coil or legs get too hot, they could melt through the rubber and short to something. Firing one of them a .19 could be very bad...
Ah, ok... Now THAT's a short
Keep in mind, you don't want those coils to be much below 1.2 ohms. They use a rubber insulator and if the coil or legs get too hot, they could melt through the rubber and short to something. Firing one of them a .19 could be very bad...
Okay, you must've thought I was a real dumb dumb there. I should've left it on for the pic.
Thanks that's exactly what I wanted to know
Turns out one of those is not mine. My 12yo managed to order something from Japan [emoji848]
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Gorgeous, Krisma.
Can you tell I'm all about small, unassuming, discreet vape gear?
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Sent from Uranus using Tapatalk
Can you tell I'm all about small, unassuming, discreet vape gear?
Sent from Uranus using Tapatalk
Niiiiice!
@ChelsB , no problem. I didn't think you were dumb at all, I figured something like that.
I think the biggest issue with rebuilding those PT coils is making sure the negative wire (the one between the rubber and the outside of the coil base) gets folded over really tightly before inserting the rubber. Then lift it enough to get nail clippers or wire cutters nice and close to cut it off. Anything left should be tucked in and down to avoid any contact with the center pin.
Also, use a lighter gauge wire (nothing bigger than 30ga) to keep the overall width of the coil down giving less of a chance of the positive side coming into contact with the coil body. I always had good luck with 30ga.
6 wraps of 30ga Kanthal around a round tooth pick (just under 2mm) should come in a around 1.3 ohms. The tooth pick will drop into the wicking slots and keep the coil set perfectly while you put it together. Once the bottom pin is set and the leads trimmed, slide out the tooth pick and check your resistance.
If it reads a short, use the tooth pick to position the coil right in the middle of the opening so it isn't touching the outer walls. Once it reads good; wick it, check it again, fill the tank, vape, and enjoy (grunting is optional)
I think the biggest issue with rebuilding those PT coils is making sure the negative wire (the one between the rubber and the outside of the coil base) gets folded over really tightly before inserting the rubber. Then lift it enough to get nail clippers or wire cutters nice and close to cut it off. Anything left should be tucked in and down to avoid any contact with the center pin.
Also, use a lighter gauge wire (nothing bigger than 30ga) to keep the overall width of the coil down giving less of a chance of the positive side coming into contact with the coil body. I always had good luck with 30ga.
6 wraps of 30ga Kanthal around a round tooth pick (just under 2mm) should come in a around 1.3 ohms. The tooth pick will drop into the wicking slots and keep the coil set perfectly while you put it together. Once the bottom pin is set and the leads trimmed, slide out the tooth pick and check your resistance.
If it reads a short, use the tooth pick to position the coil right in the middle of the opening so it isn't touching the outer walls. Once it reads good; wick it, check it again, fill the tank, vape, and enjoy (grunting is optional
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