The V1 did leave a gap, but not leaky gap... with the ginormous gasket on the bottom of the Nauti Mini, it's only an aesthetic issue.
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Tootle Puffers, Part Three! (The Sequel of the Redux)
- Thread starter Katdarling
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I have both the V1 and V2 of the VVTF. The V1 is slightly easier, as Shawn said, but it is a matter of degrees. Both are an exercise in patience and the V2 would make a priest jump and kick a stained glass window in frustration. The V1 would fit perfectly in the Kabuki and/or Vika with a slightly longer glass, the reason I was using the Zephyrus (I think) glass on the Kabuki.
The vika uses the nautilus coils and the factory coils are definately rebuildable. The actual RBA coil is the devil in disguise
Dont do it. Or if you accept the challenge.... set aside a weekend for finding the teeny tiny screws that take any opportunity to fling themselve across the room and immediately loose themselves.
I have just rediscovered my unicorn! I just recoiled my nectar and I'm loving it! Ordered 3 more it is super easy and I'm happy!!!
Yes, but it's an over the counter item so your doctor won't give you a prescription. The question my insurance agent asked me was, "Have you smoked cigarettes in the last year?", to which I answered, "No".
The hospital is where they would likely test you for Cotinine. I'd just tell them I don't smoke anymore but I just took a Nicorette this morning. They'll likely note that on the paperwork and the insurance company will probably ignore it.
https://www.newlinemedical.com/assets/pdf/Alere-iScreen-Cotinine-FAQ.pdf
I've watched a few videos on rebuilding the Nautilus bvc coils and it looks hokey at best. Got any tips?
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I had a mass of pics here somewhere.
Remove pin, insulator and old coil/wick The casing comes off leaving a little core. I use a little punch to push out the core rather than pliers to pull of the outer casing. (i tried pliers and I crushed the threading.) once you have the casing off the first time its easier.
I us fasttech prewound/wicked coils with Nr-R-Nr The NR legs stop the insulators melting. I remove the silica wick and rewick with rayon. I then wrap mesh around the core instead of cotton (don't like cotton)
Pop the outer casing back on press to secure and install in tank to vape.
Excuse the meat mallet but its my main inside mallet. There are a lot of ways to remove and replace the cover. I do it this way beause it had the least chance of damaging the components
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Or that.
I should say that I prefer horizontal coils and rayon so I cant help with vertical & cotton
Much easier once you have done a couple and figure out how to hold the little bits.
You've not seen the damage I can do with much less of a project.
At your distance (from me) of 17,000k though, you're probably safe. Notice that I said, "Probably."
Excellent. That's what I was missing... getting the thing completely apart.
What kind of mesh?
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I personally use rtas for rebuilding and clearos for convenience of pop in prebuilt coils. It's nice to know how to rebuild a stock coil but much easier to rebuild an RTA.
That's just my approach and philosophy.
That's just my approach and philosophy.
I use high pg so 400 mesh if you use thicker or higher VG then try dropping that to 300 or 250. It acts as your eliquid flow control so might need tweaking to customize
Yes but I use billet boxes with bridges and use the same coils in my tanks. So i just rewick a batch, pop in a new coil and forget for a few months until I need more
I should also say that I dont rewick/recoil these for money or time savings. I do this because manufacturers changed the wicking material of all these coils to cotton and I don't like the taste of cotton. I like the tanks and how they perform so I learned to rewick them with rayon. This completes my vaping equation. Granted its not for everyone but for how I want to vape its the only answer.
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