If the overall wire length is the same on a 3mm ID coil and a 2mm coil, the mass would be the same, and the resistance too. No?You also have to consider mass. Larger coils take longer to heat up and cool down. I'm personally a big fan of 2.25mm coils for mtl vaping. You typically also don't want to go wider than the air hole. Also try spaced coils if you haven't. If you tightly spaced a coil you get. Ore surface area for heating due to radiant heat. 2.25 mm and Six wraps tightly spaced usa. Great build.
I'm a big fan of 6 wrap coils. Spaced or otherwise. I find doing more wraps creates too much mass also.
Once again I'm having trouble rebuilding my STM RBA. It just won't register on the ohm meter no many how many times I fiddle with the leads. Any ideas as to what could be wrong?
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have a Tenna Jig and kinda like the cleverness of it... Tenna, as in Antenna... get it?
View attachment 662217
but keep coming back to the multi-mandrel... it's just convenient...
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Of course, I have a full suite of bitty screwdrivers, too, and the ceramic sticks...
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I'm getting a little sick and tired of Smok. Sure, their mods are pretty good, but their current run is damaging the industry at large. Damaging? Yup... B&Ms, trying to cater to such a diverse crowd, have sunk so much money into the gotta-get-em-all mentality created by the 564435 color combinations the Alien kit is available in, they're carrying little else... very few starter kits, no mechs, no rebuildables... just stacks and stacks of multi-colored alien kits. Meanwhile, in order to get any traction at all, other companies are trying the same thing... so there are now 36545 Therion colors, 43345 Predator colors, 43345 iStick colors which makes it look like there are very few DEVICE options... scan FastTech's TC Mod category... page after page of Aliens and Therions... Sooner or later, the demand for these kits will drop, and I can see thise B&Ms left holding dozens of these mods which will be so devalued by the flood, that they'll be lucky to move them at cost. This behavior has stifled innovation... why come out wuth something new and better, when you can slap a different coat of paint on something old and keep right on selling? And, in spite of the percieved personalization opportunities, it's making thing LESS customizable... skin manufacturers must be hurting... If I had my druthers, there'd be 5 color combos... stainless, black, white, brass/gold, copper. Any further customization can be achieved with skins/wraps/battery door/panels...
End rant...
@corn flakes Have you ever found an RTA that you liked?
I got mine with cheddar, lettuce, tomato, onion, and mayo.
Easily a half pound of beef on my doible burger...Did you have a salad or a burger.
A few. I like a 4 mm chimney, airflow restriction directly below the coil. Use smaller diameter DT's/
I have Kayfun V4, Kayfun Mini V3 and Merlin minis.
Maybe it's the ohm meter and not the Rba?
Once again I'm having trouble rebuilding my STM RBA. It just won't register on the ohm meter no many how many times I fiddle with the leads. Any ideas as to what could be wrong?
The center pin in the 510 connector could be pushed out. Push it back in before attaching the RBA.Once again I'm having trouble rebuilding my STM RBA. It just won't register on the ohm meter no many how many times I fiddle with the leads. Any ideas as to what could be wrong?
Do you have an external type meter, with test probes? If so, check the coil before putting it into the STM base.
If not, make sure the RBA is tight in the base, sometimes, if showing open circuit (i.e. "won't register"). Ime, a shorted coil/head/rba will show as 0.00, which, to me, is "registering". An open circuit, too high a resistance, will show 9.99, or "check atomizer" or.... depending on the mod.
The center pin in the 510 connector could be pushed out. Push it back in before attaching the RBA.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
The center pin in the 510 connector could be pushed out. Push it back in before attaching the RBA.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
Check the screws for corrosion? I'm also guessing that the connector pin in the base is out of whack like Shawn said.Yes, I have a separate ohm reader. It reads "non"
Check the screws for corrosion? I'm also guessing that the connector pin in the base is out of whack like Shawn said.
Nope... the STM base...Do you mean the on the RBA?