I use the same ejuice...nicotine-6mg. and WTA-18mg...in my Minifits that I use in my Zeniths...
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Tootle Puffers, Part Three! (The Sequel of the Redux)
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I use the same ejuice...nicotine-6mg. and WTA-18mg...in my Minifits that I use in my Zeniths...
..
Another great battery update from @Mooch. Here is a link to his post on his FB page. It's a long post. If you don't have FB let me know and I'll copy/paste it for you.
What am I missing???
"Their 2500mAh 18650 looks identical to, and performs essentially identical to, the LG HE2/4...Their 3000mAh 18650 looks identical to, and performs essentially identical to, the Samsung 30Q."
So...if their batteries end up being less expensive than LG/Samsung...why not try a couple???
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Well, the problem is, if they are being less than truthful about being an actual battery manufacturer, and are playing fast and loose with their safety test data or chemical composition documentation, then people should be discouraged from doing business with them. Sure, you might get a re-wrapped 30Q today, but tomorrow who knows what you'll get under the wrap.
If this is a company you want to support I guess that is an option, Even if you ignore all the other concerns though these batteries are typically a LOT more expensive than the OEM-wrapped ones.
Because you should not compromise on battery safety. I worked in a battery powered industry for over 40 years, TV & film production, from nicad cell packs the size of a briefcase and battery belts the same weight as a divers belt - to todays very powerful waaay smaller packs for cameras and audio kit ... that taught me to take extreme care of power sources in a hectic environment, a mistake or being daft could end the day's work or remove some of your skin.
Have you seen an exploding or burning cell? It's educational.
These days I only buy cells made by the big 4 manufacturers from reliable suppliers and test them thoroughly before use, no rewraps. I'm very, very careful with anything using internal batteries as I'm not 100% sure of what cells are inside.
Go and look at eBay or other online marketplaces, so many fake cells with silly quoted capacities. A few weeks ago I saw a "Panasonic" 18650 on eBay with "320MAH" printed on the cell. Dangerous fakes.
So we have a whole new world of powerful battery use, vaping, with few users understanding the risks. If a company is criticised by Mooch I listen, he knows what he's talking about.
Got the Vapor Giant M5 set up and it vapes well. The juice capacity is nice but TBH I think I prefer the simplicity of the KF19 or my Dvarws
I tried an RDA for the first time last night. I got a Rincoe Manto Mini from Fasttech, only 11 weeks after ordering it. The Manco Mini is a really nice pass through, although, like most of these things, it's actually regulated. It keeps the voltage at 3.7V until the battery drops below 3.7V. It gives you warnings when the voltage drops below 3.5V. It's also super light, at 1.6oz.
So, unlike a true mech, you don't get that 4V to start with. It's up to your tootling selves as to whether that's a big deal or not.
The MM came with a super cheap RDA. Also some prebuilt coils and some cotton. I said to myself, "Why not?" So I chose a .85ohm Clapton, which tested out to .9ohm when I got the thing built. I just went and did it. Years of hanging out here, I don't need any instructions on this.
So my ugly build worked with the cheap RDA, and I found that even at low wattage, 98VG produces big cool clouds. Much lower and they wouldn't be so cool. I'm playing around with it, and already bought a bunch of RDA's. Just like mech mods, some very good stuff can be had even on a low budget. I just got over my last bout of shinyitis (mechs), and now it's RDA's!
I never really thought much of RDA's, because I always thought that you couldn't run them low enough to produce much vapor at levels that would still keep it cool. Drop-in coil atomizers still rule for the cool. Just ask @cornflakes. He knows the secret of cool as well. But RDA's are good for a more concentrated level of nicotine, even at 15W. So they'll be a part of my repertoire now.
So, unlike a true mech, you don't get that 4V to start with. It's up to your tootling selves as to whether that's a big deal or not.
The MM came with a super cheap RDA. Also some prebuilt coils and some cotton. I said to myself, "Why not?" So I chose a .85ohm Clapton, which tested out to .9ohm when I got the thing built. I just went and did it. Years of hanging out here, I don't need any instructions on this.
So my ugly build worked with the cheap RDA, and I found that even at low wattage, 98VG produces big cool clouds. Much lower and they wouldn't be so cool. I'm playing around with it, and already bought a bunch of RDA's. Just like mech mods, some very good stuff can be had even on a low budget. I just got over my last bout of shinyitis (mechs), and now it's RDA's!
I never really thought much of RDA's, because I always thought that you couldn't run them low enough to produce much vapor at levels that would still keep it cool. Drop-in coil atomizers still rule for the cool. Just ask @cornflakes. He knows the secret of cool as well. But RDA's are good for a more concentrated level of nicotine, even at 15W. So they'll be a part of my repertoire now.
Right now I'm rockin' a 0.5ohm hive coil on my Ragnarok in 18500 mode. I got some 18500 LiFEPO4 (or whatever) batteries, which start at 3.4V and run at 3.2V. They're supposed to have a flatter discharge curve. I'll report later.
Tootlin' cool clouds with some 5mg vanilla custard diy.
Tootlin' cool clouds with some 5mg vanilla custard diy.
My new eLeaf voltage meter won't read voltages that low. I'll need to do the rest of the sciencing later.
So far, though, so good. Unscientific, I've taken maybe 100 good tokes from this and vapor production hasn't really dropped very much at all.
So far, though, so good. Unscientific, I've taken maybe 100 good tokes from this and vapor production hasn't really dropped very much at all.
1000mAh. No discharge rating on the wrapper. What are those 26650's rated at? I'm getting a 26650 mech.
Their stated rating is 55a continuous --- the lygate reviewer only tested up to 30a, but they handled that just fine.
I think we're on to something here. A lot of my tanks dial in nicely at 3.2-3.4V. As always with mechs, load matching is the key. Now we have two voltage ranges to play with!
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