Turbocad's finally selling mods :)

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Tamer El-Meehy

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yes, yes you did :) although technically you would have a spot somewhere further up the list if you so desired, but where you are is fine too, to give you a little more time should you want that :)

I'll drop you a line whenever I'm ready and you can adjust my position as appropriate :) but it's a crime not to be on this list.


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super_X_drifter

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here is the default squonk holes for the dna75's. the 2 tone one may be sold but the other one is up for grabs here, I will make 2 more 75's in the next few days to sell here to raise some funds and then go back to finishing up the dna200's once and for all.

this is really a sweet little mod, I didn't think I'd like them nearly as much as I do, I've wished for a squonker just like this for a few years now, more than enough power really at 75 watts, full temp control with any wire and very compact. it's only a single 18650 though. I've been rolling with dual 18650's for a while now, so I really got used to having way more than enough battery life for a whole day plus, but then again I'm really liking this little thing too, may have to build one for myself :)

as I've said, I'm not much of a fan of CA finishes but some woods just beg for a CA finish and this is one of them, it really pops with a well done CA finish. many or most woods I prefer a natural oil rubbed finish but certain woods like this I guess I don't mind the CA finish so much, only problem is I get carried away with trying to make the finish flawless and it winds up taking me a really long time to do a finish like this, adds several hours to the build

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the materials for the 200's should be here Tuesday, I hope to have a finalized 200 design locked in by the end of the week. aside from the 510 upgrade there is just one more tweak that I'd also like to do, more on that when I get back to working the dn200's :)

That 2 tone looks bad ayuss. Savage lookin mods Turbobro. Congrats for gettin this off the ground man.
 

BobC

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ha, I thought the xanax would hold you over till tomorrow so I've been working on finalizing the dna200 and buffing and rebuffing your mod :lol:

the dna200 is now finalized, completely. I winded up doing it without having to add the offset for the 510 and without adding much to the width at all, had to add very slightly to the height but it's still only .83" taller than the single 18650 mod.

this afternoon I'll button up your mod Bob and I should be able to deliver it to you tomorrow afternoon some time :)

It's all OK now,
Doubled up on the Xanax, and aside from the dribbling, I'm all better now :rolleyes:
 

distortoblotto

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The official unofficial incomplete list, still waiting for confirmations :)*
*
*
*
nautilus fan
sqonker
73neb
benthos
clark f
distortoblotto ( dna 75)
havok333
Tamer El-Meehy
67Tele
Kingdal
ghola1was

No further confirmation needed T, Just let me know when you are ready. :thumb:
 

turbocad6

Unregistered Supplier
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Jan 17, 2011
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brooklyn ny
hey Bob your mod is done, I'l deliver it to you tomorrow :)

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also, I have made a slight change to how I'm now doing the 510's in these mods. I am of course using the varitube bottom feed 510's. the first 2 dna75's that I did I used them as they are designed, with a ring terminal between the 2 nuts to make the positive connection, but since then I have come to realize that for an end user to service this thing after the fact would be a huge pita because of this, plus the ring terminal adds clutter and unnecessary bulk where it is not needed, hampering the free movement of the pin itself.

I mean the design seems to be solid and chances for leaking or any problems is very low, but if it ever became necessary for the owner to disassemble it for any reason I decided to make it much more user friendly. the one thing that I wish varitube did with this 510 is to add a screwdriver slot or allen key drive to the center pin. this would make it easy for anyone to take it apart and reassemble it after it is installed in the mod, so now from this mod going foward I'll be modifying the center pin with a screw driver slot and not using a ring terminal any more, now I am making a direct soldered connection to the top brass nut. this will make it very easy to take it apart and replace the o-ring should it ever become necessary to do so, all you would need to do is loosen the second nut and spin it off, then turn the pin with a small flathead screwdriver to unscrew it from the wire connected nut and re=screw it in when reassembling it, easy to do and easy to set it to the correct depth before tightening the second nut.

as these originally come this is not possible to do, you'd need to set the pin depth and tighten these 2 nuts before installing the whole insulator and pin assembly after it's assembled, making it difficult to assemble and difficult to tighten properly. now with the new way I'm doing it by cutting a screwdriver slot you never need to remove the insulator at all, it can stay in the SS 510 housing, making it tighter and leak free and overall much easier to work with and better overall I think.

here is a shot showing how the insulator can get pre installed and tightened properly to the 510 housing before assembling the center pin and how the nut is attached to the 16ga wire. you can also see in this shot the battery positive contact which is a solid silver button contact on a copper base for a solid low maintenance connection and in the next shot the silver coated beryllium copper negative spring, again for a solid low maintenance battery connection. you will very rarely have to do anything to these contacts, they do not build up any kind of carbon or arc at all like is common with a mech because these are not make/break contacts like in a mech. a quick wipe every few months is all it takes to keep these contacts in top shape :)



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and here is a shot of it assembled and connected in the mod


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turbocad6

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Jan 17, 2011
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brooklyn ny
ok, as far as woods I have in stock right now, I have the following in quantities of more than one mod on most of these, and all large enough for a dna200 or a dna75 unless otherwise noted:

brown ebony
burmese blackwood
african blackwood
black palm
carribean rosewood
honduran rosewood
katalox
kingswood
madigascar ebony
paduak
bi colored zebrawood
cocobolo
lauro preto
red thingyan burl
white teak burl(dna75 sized only)


all of these woods except the african blackwood and the red thingyan burl and the white teak burl have no upcharge for the wood block itself, so all are included in the base price of the mod. the african blackwood, red thingyan burl and white teak burl may have a small upcharge because of the additional cost of these particular wood blocks...

I also have one block of a very rare for this size block of snakewood which will be very difficult to make a mod successfully from. snakewood is very difficult to work with, needs to be worked very slowly with long resting periods between operations and a mod made from this will def cost quite a bit more than a base mod. I don't know if I would even commit to building this for someone because of the extreme amount of excess time it will take to build a mod from this snakewood and the high probability of problems with it, so I may just work this block in spare time and if/when it actually materializes into a mod, then offer it up here. if this turns out this will be a real trophy mod and truly unique piece but again, don't know that I'd commit to anyone on this before it actually turns out, just mentioning it here for the sake of mentioning it :)

I also have a few blocks of stabilized and dyed or hybrid stabilized/resin blocks that I will need to get pictures of to accurately describe them here. a few blues and purples... these blocks are premium high quality expensive blocks, stabilized the right way under high pressure so there will be an up charge for mods made from these particular blocks.

I'l try to get pictures tomorrow of these blocks and try to get some pics of the other woods too, although some of the stock woods may be difficult to really see because many are larger blocks covered with wax, truth is the only way to really see what a block like that will look like as a mod is after it is cut down to mod block size, but if anyone is interested in any particular stock wood let me know and I'll trim that block down to mod size to try and show you the best representation possible of what it may look like as a mod.

anyone who chooses a stock wood is not fully obligated to it until it is done and they like the way the final results look. if you choose a wood without being able to really see an accurate representation of the wood and then don't like the look of it when it's done, you can opt to choose another wood. no one is committed to anything until they love the final product. this may not apply to some of the specialty or high end blocks but we'll deal with that on a case by case basis, in the end my only goal is for you to be happy with your mod

of course, anyone is welcome to select there own block from whatever source they may find but it's usually best to check with me first to ensure that what you are choosing is suitable for our use here. absolute minimum block sizes for a mod including a door built from the same block are as follows:

dna200 *

** 4.3 x 2.35 x 1.5 **

dna75 *

** 3.45 X 2.1 x 1.5 **

now these^^ are absolute bare minimums with no wiggle room whatsoever!! these dimensions are assuming a very clean, truly squared, accurately measured and well finished block to start with, which is not always the case when sourcing blocks, so ideally I would really like to add at least .1" to each dimension here to be on the safe side! a bit larger is always better! I'm only giving these absolute bare minimum dimensions in case you find a block that you really love but winds up being a bit on the tight side of things... always be sure to check with me to confirm anything you find that is close to the bare minimum sizes listed above in any dimension!! anything with voids or bark inclusions or surface imperfections or less than ideal surface finishes or less than perfectly square or sloppily measured at, or very near these bare minimums in any dimension will be a problem!! confirm with me before committing to any block that you are unsure of!



ideally you should be looking for the following as a practical minimum size, and these are the "official" recommended minimum size block:

dna200

4.4 X 2.45 x 1.6

dna75

3.6 X 2.2 X 1.6

again, larger is always better
 
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turbocad6

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Jan 17, 2011
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that's african blackwood, natural oil rubbed finish. what's nice about a natural finish is it's easier to touch up and refresh, sand out a scuff or blemish and re oil and re wax it.

a CA finish, while it is a bit harder and more durable in many ways, it can be a real pita if it does get scratched or damaged, requiring a complete refinishing and a lot more work to repair the finish, so in my opinion a natural oil rubbed finish is better for a mod that's going to get used and abused because it's a lot easier to refresh it from time to time, a light sand and re oil/re wax and she's good as new.

a ca finish is more durable and less maintenance up to a point, yeah, but past that point a natural finish is easier to work with. both have there benefits and drawbacks but when it comes down to feel in the hand, nothing beats the silky velvety smooth feeling of a natural wood finish to me, but that's just one mans opinion :)
 

Rossum

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It's an amazing time to get on a quality mod list like this, turnaround is weeks, instead of years :cool:

I wonder how long that's gonna last :blink:

;)

Good point!

updated list:

The official unofficial incomplete list, still waiting for possible prior confirmations
*
*
*
*
nautilus fan
sqonker
73neb
benthos
clark f
Aal
distortoblotto(dna75)
tpedwards
havok333
Tamer El-Meehy
67Tele
Kingdal
ghola1was
Rossum (DNA75)
 
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