Turbocad's finally selling mods :)

[BobC]

Very nice Bob!! It is really smaller than I thought. May have to rethink the dna 75 especially since Turbo has really maximized battery life making some setup changes in the chip....brilliant btw Turbo




That is really cool I had about decided I wanted ultem buttons but this pretty much seals the deal

Naut, I have a thing about size, which overrides power, if you want this to last, or run coils requiring over 45-50 watts, I suggest the DNA200 with two batteries and 133 watt capacity, Turbo had both with him when he brought mine over, it's only a little bit bigger

 

[BobC]

Kingdal, it really depends on how you use it,

If you're not using much more then 10-12 amps, battery life is as good as any DNA40,

If you're using 15-20 amps (40-75 watts) battery life will be an issue on the 75, you're better off with the DNA200

 

[Nautilusfan]

Naut, I have a thing about size, which overrides power, if you want this to last, or run coils requiring over 45-50 watts, I suggest the DNA200 with two batteries and 133 watt capacity, Turbo had both with him when he brought mine over, it's only a little bit bigger

Thanks Bob, I am probably better off with the DNA 200 Less than an inch taller and the other dimensions are approximately the same

 

[Chowderhead1972]

Kingdal, it really depends on how you use it,

If you're not using much more then 10-12 amps, battery life is as good as any DNA40,

If you're using 15-20 amps (40-75 watts) battery life will be an issue on the 75, you're better off with the DNA200

Agreed.

 

[turbocad6]

Very nice Bob!! It is really smaller than I thought. May have to rethink the DNA 75 especially since Turbo has really maximized battery life making some setup changes in the chip....brilliant btw Turbo

what setup changes are you talking about here? not sure what you mean?

yeah guys, as far as battery life, a single 18650 is still only going to give you what a single 18650 can give. if you vape ~25-30 watts or less then a single 18650 may get you through a big part of the day, of course depending on how much you vape. if your vaping well over 40 watts then battery life will be much less than this. personally I vape in the 25-40 watt range and when I use a single 18650 mod it def falls short of a whole day, with dual 18650's I can easily go well over a full day


for me, with a dna75 I would need to carry 2 mods or at least do a battery swap, with the dna200 I can only carry the one mod without worrying about running out of power which is why I developed the dna200 in the first place. I don't like having to worry about battery swaps or charging during the day when I'm out, so for me it's either carry the dual 18650 dna200 or 2 different single 18650 mods.


my advice personally is if you vape much over 40 watts on a regular basis def go towards the dual 18650's


ray, bro, I'm sorry, when you asked me for instructions on using the dna75 I assumed you knew that temp control only works with temp control compatible wires so I completely skipped over that part in my basic instructions, but yeah, for temp control to function it requires the use of either ss316, ss317, ss430, titanium or ni200. there are also a few other compatible less common wires too, but kanthal and nichrome both do not work in temperature control mode and even if you have it set up in temp mode it will actually default to power mode while firing. if you look at the screen while firing you'll notice that while firing it says "OFF" where the temperature display would otherwise be.

when I get a chance I'm going to try to do a very basic and simple beginners guide to temp control vaping. I know there is tons of info out there but it may be overwhelming for someone just starting out with only basic mech experience to get started.

I got pics of woods, I'll upload them in a bit as soon as I finish entertaining the wife

 

[Nautilusfan]

what setup changes are you talking about here? not sure what you mean?

Weren't you talking about lowering the minimum voltage to 2.8v to keep the low battery indication from activating as it normally would?

 

[Nautilusfan]

As I think about it though battery capacity doesn't vary even if the chip parameters do....sooooo dna200 for me

 

[BobC]

.............

I got pics of woods, I'll upload them in a bit as soon as I finish entertaining the wife

Pics or it didn't happen

 

[BobC]

eScribe How - To: http://api.viglink.com/api/click?fo...//www.evolvapor.com/manuals/EScribeManual.pdf

 

[Raynman]

How the heck do you get to the power mode?

 

[turbocad6]

ray, hold down the up and down buttons together for 5 seconds and it'll then say "temp locked" or "power locked", now while in this up/down locked mode, when you press either up or down 2 times it will start to cycle through the profiles and with each successive up or down press it advances to the next profile, there are 8 profiles stored in the chip and it will continuously cycle through these 8 profiles with each successive up/down button press... when you see the profile you want to be in, stop pressing up or down and it will then stay in that profile... you can at that point again press and hold up/down for 5 seconds again which will take it out of this locked mode and it will remain in the profile last displayed.

there are profiles on board as I programmed it for ni200, ss430, ss316 and ti, there should be 2 profiles that don't include any of these, and those would be your regular power profiles. I believe as shipped to you there are a total of 3 different ni200 profiles, 1 ss430, 1 ss316, 1 Ti and the remaining 2 are power profiles... truth is that regardless of which profile you happen to be in though, when you fire a regular kanthal coil on this mod it will automatically default to power mode anyway, so no matter what profile you are actually in, you can just set your wattage and it will vape in power mode, even if temp is displayed when not firing...

in a power profile the default on screen main view should be showing watts to be raised/lowered with the up/down buttons instead of a temperature.

if you happen to be in a profile that is showing a temperature as the main screens display instead of the wattage, then you are still in a temperature controlled profile.


* in a nutshell there are 2 different lock modes of the dna chip, one is the up/down lock mode and the other is the fire button lock mode.

*to enter or exit the up/down locked mode you hold up & down together for 5 seconds... in this locked mode the mod is locked from using up/down to change the main displayed parameter and also from this locked mode you can then switch profiles by repeatedly pressing either up or down.

*the second lock mode is the firing lock mode, which is entered or exited by pressing the fire button 5 times in a row... when in this locked mode the mod won't fire, it is essentially locked, and in this mode is where you can then adjust the secondary parameter of temperature or watts. while in this fire locked mode if you press up & down for 5 seconds it will then enter the adjustment mode to allow you to raise or lower the secondary parameter which can be either watts or temperature, depending on the profile it happens to be in.

to put it simply, there are 2 adjustable parameters, temperature and wattage. one will be on the primary display, while the other will need to be accessed in the fire locked mode. which one is on the primary display and which one is in the secondary position requiring adjustment in the fire locked mode is determined by the profile selected. all of this is customizable in escribe but should be perfectly usable as it is set up now.

let me know if anything needs further clarification. I wish I could sit down with you for 10 minutes and show you, it's really is simpler than it may sound here, I'm sure if you play with it a bit you should get it.

 

[Raynman]

Got it now.....Whew.

 

[turbocad6]

ok woods, the first 6 are stabilized burl woods and shown in pairs,



first pair, one on the left is double dyed, one on the right is stabilized/resin hybrid, both buckeye burl

second pair, again one on the left is double dyed and one on the right is stabilized resin hybrid

third pair, these are both double dyed stabilized burls

all of these will look richer and deeper when finished as mods, right now they are just raw cut blocks, I did wet them with water just so you can kind of see the colors but when done with a high polish and finish will def pop more than these pics can show

 

[Raynman]

Gonna be stunning when they're done. Congrats to whom ever gets them.

 

[turbocad6]

ok, now the other woods, these are going to be much more difficult for you to really see much at all in there current form. as I said if you are interested in a particular wood then let me know which and I'll cut it to a mod sized block and try to show you a better representation. as these woods come from the supplier they are rough cut and heavily coated with a heavy wax to slow the drying to prevent checks and cracks and to promote an even drying or "seasoning". truth is with many of these woods and many raw wood blocks in general you're really not going to know exactly how it's going to look until it starts to shape up closer to mod size, in this raw form they all kinda look like crap but when cut down and shaped and polished is when there real beauty becomes apparent I will be cutting these down to mod sized blocks and show better representations as I do, but just wanted to show what they look like now


cocobolo

katalox

paduk

macassar ebony

burmese blackwood

caribbean rosewood

honduran rosewood

kingswood (very similar look and properties of desert ironwood)

black palm

brown ebony

kingswood

lauro preto and zebrawood

 

[turbocad6]

also, here is another example of why it is hard some times to show a good representation of what the finished product will look like, these 2 next shots are the white teak burl. as you can see in the first shot and most of the second shot, it looks very different from the raw cut end of this block which looks almost white in comparison, yet it's obviously the same wood, the finish on the wood makes a huge difference in the appearance by the way, this white teak burl may already be spoken for, I'll know for sure once the person who requested reserving it confirms after seeing the pics here

 

[turbocad6]

Weren't you talking about lowering the minimum voltage to 2.8v to keep the low battery indication from activating as it normally would?

yeah, evolve recommends that dna75's set up with a single 18650 be set up with a low voltage cutoff of 2.75 volts, this doesn't mean that batteries will come off of the mod anywhere near this low, this is just the low cut off on surge and the trigger on surge of a low battery warning. this effects the battery gauge and the low battery warning, batteries will still come off the mod at over 3 volts after it warns you of low battery, but this doesn't actually do anything to increase the actual power available from the battery.

in reality a single 18650 in a dna75 will give you about the same amount of vape time as any other 18650 regulated mod give or take

also yeah, I forgot to mention here and show that the dna75 uses leds on the fire button. it lights up when firing, when charging it pulses red and when it's fully charged it shows green. all of these colors are programmable or can be turned off completely in escribe. it's a bit gimmicky but I guess some may find it cool. ultem buttons allow this to shine through well of course. the dna200 doesn't have these leds on board

 

[Aal_]

yeah, evolve recommends that dna75's set up with a single 18650 be set up with a low voltage cutoff of 2.75 volts, this doesn't mean that batteries will come off of the mod anywhere near this low, this is just the low cut off on surge and the trigger on surge of a low battery warning. this effects the battery gauge and the low battery warning, batteries will still come off the mod at over 3 volts after it warns you of low battery, but this doesn't actually do anything to increase the actual power available from the battery.

in reality a single 18650 in a dna75 will give you about the same amount of vape time as any other 18650 regulated mod give or take

also yeah, I forgot to mention here and show that the dna75 uses leds on the fire button. it lights up when firing, when charging it pulses red and when it's fully charged it shows green. all of these colors are programmable or can be turned off completely in escribe. it's a bit gimmicky but I guess some may find it cool. ultem buttons allow this to shine through well of course. the dna200 doesn't have these leds on board

doesn't making the cutoff lower, allow for higher watts at low levels? or does the dna ignore this setting in actual operation and relies on its own battery readings? So basically does lower the cutoff give you a looser breaking on the watts?

 

[kingdal]

Kingdal, it really depends on how you use it,

If you're not using much more then 10-12 amps, battery life is as good as any DNA40,

If you're using 15-20 amps (40-75 watts) battery life will be an issue on the 75, you're better off with the DNA200

Thanks Bob, thats good to know. I'm usually around 40-45 watts so I guess this is just like a regular 18650 mod. Trying to decide between the size and battery tradeoff. Decisions, decisions

 

[kingdal]

Turbo, sent you a PM. Thanks