Unoxidised Wick preparation with VV device

[SunRam]

Has anyone successfully prepared an unoxidised wick (e.g. Petar K method) with a regulated device, specifically a young june or l-rider lavatube version? I've got an AGA-T+ on the way, and would really like to go the unoxidised route, but not quite sure if I will be able to pulse out the hotspots with my young june lavatube, since I do not own a mechanical or unregulated mod. Got an eVic on the way as well, but I think it will pose the same problems.
I know the guys with Provari's struggle, due to E1 errors and the 5 click menu problem while pulsing. Any thoughts/suggestions?

 

[Jeremy Evans]

couldnt you just flip the wick upside down, to where the mesh wouldnt be going into the tank to short it and then oxides it. Then just flip the wires to flip the mesh back down into the RBA after and it would be good?

 

[NayrTrawe]

I managed to do it once successfully on my Provari but it was really frustrating due to constant error messages. It worked great for a couple days but after I de-gunked the coils (I use all VG, very dark liquids) I was back to square one. Since I didn't notice any improvement I went back to pre-oxidizing my wicks and haven't looked back. Based on my limited experience, as long as you have your wick and coil done properly the key is just to have a lot of patience and keep at it until it works.

 

[jazon1]

ive had 0 problems using un oxidized mesh, i just do one rap of roley paper from top to about half way down the wick, tightly rap my coil around it, tighten everything up and dry burn it for a few seconds til the paper is all burned off, then lightly blow away the left over ash, fill my tank and im good to go.

 

[scrappy]

I have no problem with my vamo. I'll boil my mesh for 10 mins, then make my wick so there's no oxidation when I pulse it. The trick I do in my dripper is I slide my wick into the coil but I don't let it touch the bottom. Then I pulse it a little. If all the coils don't light up in 3-4 pulses I twist the wick until they all light up. This will build up a tiny bit of oxidation. Then I'll push the wick all the way down and repeat the process. What I've found is if the coil doesn't light up even after a few pulses that the wick is too tight. It should be loose enough you can slide the wick out easily.

 

[Section1]

ive had 0 problems using un oxidized mesh, i just do one rap of roley paper from top to about half way down the wick, tightly rap my coil around it, tighten everything up and dry burn it for a few seconds til the paper is all burned off, then lightly blow away the left over ash, fill my tank and im good to go.

I might give that a try to speed thing up. I don't have any rolling papers though. Can I use something else like a tea bag?

 

[Thompson]

ive had 0 problems using un oxidized mesh, i just do one rap of roley paper from top to about half way down the wick, tightly rap my coil around it, tighten everything up and dry burn it for a few seconds til the paper is all burned off, then lightly blow away the left over ash, fill my tank and im good to go.

Wouldn't that be an oxidation method? At the very least its adding a layer of carbon.

 

[jazon1]

yea it has a slight oxidation between the coils and SS but only where needed the rest is blown off, much easier then any other method i have tried. no playing with the coils or regular oxidation,works perfect every time.

 

[Kemosabe]

when doing an unoxidized ss build, i find it strange that a VV device errors out, yet we feel comfortable using mech mods to pulse.

we are bypassing the safety feature and it makes me uneasy. but this is probably becasue i dont fully understand. what is the purpose of the error code safety feature? is it just to alert you that there is a short in your atty (and its assuming the atty is non-rebuildable, they think it must be trashed)?

i plan to use my vmod 2.0 to do my pulsing and then use my provari once its up and running. i understand that even a AW IMR 14500 can handle over 4 amps. so my coil would have to be WELL under 1 ohm for the battery to be stressed enough to malfunction. does this sound like a safe way of approaching the unoxidezed mesh build?

 

[Horselady154]

yea it has a slight oxidation between the coils and SS but only where needed the rest is blown off, much easier then any other method i have tried. no playing with the coils or regular oxidation,works perfect every time.

This may sound stupid, but do you recommend any particular brand of papers? lol

 

[Thrasher]

when doing an unoxidized ss build, i find it strange that a VV device errors out, yet we feel comfortable using mech mods to pulse.

we are bypassing the safety feature and it makes me uneasy. but this is probably becasue i dont fully understand. what is the purpose of the error code safety feature? is it just to alert you that there is a short in your atty (and its assuming the atty is non-rebuildable, they think it must be trashed)?


i plan to use my vmod 2.0 to do my pulsing and then use my provari once its up and running. i understand that even a AW IMR 14500 can handle over 4 amps. so my coil would have to be WELL under 1 ohm for the battery to be stressed enough to malfunction. does this sound like a safe way of approaching the unoxidezed mesh build?

whats happening is yes there is a short but with a regulated device thats as far as you can go before the safety triggers and kills the power. on a mech, while pulsing you will find it is usually only a second or two after the first sparks the short quickly works out and burns an oxidation layer under the shorting coil - a point you cannot reach if the mod keeps shutting off.
it is not as if the coil is shorted and then we choose to run it that way permanently- its just the safety feature prevents us from using the coil to do the oxidation by itself and getting anyfurther then the first grounded short.

to illustrate - on the provari you press the putton and see the short sparkle then an E1
on a mech you see the sparkles, and let go, after a press or two you see the first wrap start to glow. pulsing of the button further "burns" the shorts off and slowly one by one you see the coils begin to glow once the full coil is glowing you are pretty much done.
then the provari in most cases will register this as a normal working coil.
this is how i do it - on my natural first then transfer over to the prov.


to the OP one of the ways to get around the completely non oxy method on a regulated mod is just torch the end of the wick that sits in the coil with a lighter to blacken it a bit and kill the initial shorting.

to the other poster, turning the wick upside down then putting it back sounds good in theory but as son as you move the coils you reposition the oxidized spots and have to start over. the actual oxidation will be only directly under the wraps so if the wick is a few mm off the bottom of the atty as soon as it drops or moves a short may appear yet again.


Raw mesh, on a provari touching the sides and sitting on the bottom.

 

[EDO]

With the PetarK method....first you make a perfect coil around a drill bit....then you fit the wick. But he uses a mechanical mod. In order to do the PetarK method on a regulated mod, you have to make the wick fit the coil very loosely. That's the main trick... a very loose fitting wick. Then you start pulsing the switch...if the fit of the wick is right with in 10 seconds all the coils will glow evenly. This will oxidize the wick. After this add juice to the tank and just do 5 x 10 second wet burns while holding the device horizontal. This will give you a layer of gunk as insulation on the coils and will totally break in the coil....so your first vape will taste excellent. The gunk build up will aslo set the wick in place and it won't slide as easily as before.

 

[SunRam]

Some good posts, thanks!

With the PetarK method....first you make a perfect coil around a drill bit....then you fit the wick. But he uses a mechanical mod. In order to do the PetarK method on a regulated mod, you have to make the wick fit the coil very loosely. That's the main trick... a very loose fitting wick. Then you start pulsing the switch...if the fit of the wick is right with in 10 seconds all the coils will glow evenly. This will oxidize the wick. After this add juice to the tank and just do 5 x 10 second wet burns while holding the device horizontal. This will give you a layer of gunk as insulation on the coils and will totally break in the coil....so your first vape will taste excellent. The gunk build up will aslo set the wick in place and it won't slide as easily as before.

Thanks, will definitely try that!
How loose is loose? I presume all the coils must touch the wick all the way round, but on a scale of 1 to 10, where 1 would barely touch by the breadth of a hair, and 10 would dig layers into the coil, what would you suggest?
Or, stated otherwise, if you hold the atomizer by the wick, should the wick slide out of the atomizer?

 

[EDO]

SunRam.... On your scale a 2 or 3. Once I slide the wick in position.... I can slide the wick up an inch and down an inch 5 times in 5 seconds....so pretty loose. But once you let go of the wick there is no fear that it will drop or move on its own. Once you do a bunch of wet burns the wick will not slide easily at all....you will have to twist it initially then you can slide it out. Do the wet burns at lower watts.
Initially you might have to vape at a lower watts but after a quarter of a tank you can vape at higher and higher watts. But the taste should be great from the beginning. Once the coil is made and the wick is fitted...it should take only a couple of minutes to get up and running. Take the most time in making the coils perfect and fitting the wick right....the rest is real easy.