Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[cobalt327]

WW, can the 510 pin itself be ground down, so as to make it "shorter", so that making the washer sit flush wouldn't intrude on the tight internal space? I realize this will marginally lessen the spring pressure but that could be regained by shimming it a like amount- if this was even needed.

ETA, IMHO what's needed is BD or Varitube to make a dedicated adjustable 510, LH threaded, no spring. This could be shorter than a spring loaded 510 and would make the swap uber easy.

 

[dwcraig1]

That's great news. I guess I need to order a FDV v3 shorty then. My Wiadea flask is on its way, the dna40 will be ordered after I decide if temp control is something I like or hate.

I'm still on the fence about the dna40, I'm wondering if it might be a better idea to skip the 40? I dunno yet. And if I ever get off my .... and send back (rma) the 4 or 5 dna's I've got, I'll have so many chips. LOL

My goal is to try temp control with the ChiNA40... If I like it, the coil building, learning curve, etc... A dna40 is pretty easy to get and retrofit.

You don't have to even use temp control with a DNA40 to like it, just think of temp control as one more added feature.

 

[WeirdWillie]

WW, can the 510 pin itself be ground down, so as to make it "shorter", so that making the washer sit flush wouldn't intrude on the tight internal space? I realize this will marginally lessen the spring pressure but that could be regained by shimming it a like amount- if this was even needed.

ETA, IMHO what's needed is BD or Varitube to make a dedicated adjustable 510, LH threaded, no spring. This could be shorter than a spring loaded 510 and would make the swap uber easy.

I assume you are talking about for the Kangxin, and my answer would be not worth the effort and possibly of ruin of a good 510
The kangxin is a tighter space by about 3mm than the waidea and at that the only spring loaded 510 that I found that woud work in it was the FD v3 shorty.

 

[Croak]

The Varitube 14mm low profile will work in the Kangxin, with the addition of a washer on the outside, beneath the 510. It's the same length top to bottom as a V3 Shorty, ~12mm. Won't look as good though.

 

[WeirdWillie]

The Varitube 14mm low profile will work in the Kangxin, with the addition of a washer on the outside, beneath the 510. It's the same length top to bottom as a V3 Shorty, ~12mm. Won't look as good though.

Does the varitube have the "v" notch on the back side for alignment like the FD v3 does?

 

[Phone Guy]

You don't have to even use temp control with a DNA40 to like it, just think of temp control as one more added feature.

The only things I know about the dna40 are this:
Temp control
1w to 40w range
Fires extremely low resistance (not even 100% sure what the ranges are)
Reverse battery protection
Larger circuit footprint with mounting rails which are user removable
Now available in large screen (pointless or useless for retrofit into a flask anyway, ok for a custom built if you want the larger screen)

Negatives:
Screen glitches
Several firmware updates/changes since launch. I've heard they've changed or added features on the latest versions from earlier versions. But, not 100% sure what those changes are. But as I understand it, there have been different releases of the same chip since launch (ie: small screen dna40) at least in firmware.

Now, my take on this is goes something like this.. If I wanted insane power (beyond my dna30 devices) there are other options (sigelie 150w?) out there. I generally vape in the 15w to 20w range as an average. Maybe that's because I know I can't go higher than 30w? i dunno. Can a person build to accommodate 40w 60w or 100w...sure. Would I? Again, I don't think so but I don't have that option available to me so it's hard to answer.

Is temp control for me? Another hard question to answer. It seems like a lot of hassle for protection I don't need. And I'm not clear if it actually improves a properly wicking build on a given wattage. I'd like to play with it, which is why I'll try the Chinese chip, I wanted the flask mainly for the enclosure anyways...not the chip.

Please, anyone feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken or misinformed. And I'll admit, I may not be thinking right about the dna40. I'm an Evolv fan boy, I'm saddened to hear reports of flaky dna40 chips/screens/performance. Which is exactly why I have not already jumped on the dna40 bandwagon, in my mind, the only reason to get it is for the temp control, I don't see myself needing the additional wattage power.

I hope that makes sense reading it, it did in my head

 

[dwcraig1]

^^^^ I think the problems that folks had early on with the Evolv DNA40 are now a thing of the past, at least for the greater majority of them anyway.
It's them cloned DNA40's I'm concerned with now.

 

[WeirdWillie]

The only things I know about the dna40 are this:
Temp control
1w to 40w range
Fires extremely low resistance (not even 100% sure what the ranges are)
Reverse battery protection
Larger circuit footprint with mounting rails which are user removable
Now available in large screen (pointless or useless for retrofit into a flask anyway, ok for a custom built if you want the larger screen)

Negatives:
Screen glitches
Several firmware updates/changes since launch. I've heard they've changed or added features on the latest versions from earlier versions. But, not 100% sure what those changes are. But as I understand it, there have been different releases of the same chip since launch (ie: small screen dna40) at least in firmware.

Now, my take on this is goes something like this.. If I wanted insane power (beyond my dna30 devices) there are other options (sigelie 150w?) out there. I generally vape in the 15w to 20w range as an average. Maybe that's because I know I can't go higher than 30w? i dunno. Can a person build to accommodate 40w 60w or 100w...sure. Would I? Again, I don't think so but I don't have that option available to me so it's hard to answer.

Is temp control for me? Another hard question to answer. It seems like a lot of hassle for protection I don't need. And I'm not clear if it actually improves a properly wicking build on a given wattage. I'd like to play with it, which is why I'll try the Chinese chip, I wanted the flask mainly for the enclosure anyways...not the chip.

Please, anyone feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken or misinformed. And I'll admit, I may not be thinking right about the dna40. I'm an Evolv fan boy, I'm saddened to hear reports of flaky dna40 chips/screens/performance. Which is exactly why I have not already jumped on the dna40 bandwagon, in my mind, the only reason to get it is for the temp control, I don't see myself needing the additional wattage power.

I hope that makes sense reading it, it did in my head

Just for the record the latest revision DNA40 I just put in my waidea VF clone hasn't shown any hint of a screen glitch yet.
And as most know I am by no stretch of the imagination an Evolv fan boy.
I'm of the opinion that the only thing you can with more than 40 watts is waste money, and brag.
If you know how to properly build and wick coils you can do anything 100+watt can do.

 

[WeirdWillie]

^^^^ I think the problems that folks had early on with the Evolv DNA40 are now a thing of the past, at least for the greater majority of them anyway.
It's them cloned DNA40's I'm concerned with now.

I think it's because Evolv probably cloned the screen glitch fix from the Chinese.
Sure is funny how mysteriously the issues plaguing the DNA40 suddenly dissappear once the clones hit the streets.
Haha authentic cloning the clone of the authentic LOL

 

[Phone Guy]

I'd actually like to try the yihi chip (350j) but I don't like the form of the sx mini... Not for any other reason than I've got 4 (?) dna mods, a nivel chip mod (semovar), mechs, never had a yihi....

 

[RUG GUY]

Noob question .. My flask seems to be getting very warm when chain vaping, and the duel coil Ni
build @.15 on a Freakshow is getting very hot..have 25 r batts in it, brand new.. Took each batt out and it would fire fine with one.. Batt life is not very good 75% after about 1.5 hours with a full charge.. Is this a grounding issue? Bad build? Or just normal with puffing on it every 30 seconds or so? Also when I took the batts out to check both were working, there was a burnt smell, I have been charging via USB..
Thanks in advance for any input..

 

[WeirdWillie]

If you are only getting 1.5- 2 hours on dual 25R's fully charged then yes you have a 2 fold if not more problem
First you need to come up for some oxygen chain vaping every 30 seconds is quite excessive for anyone or any mod.
Second why do you feel you have to have dual coils to get a satisfying vape, two coils mean twice the power consumption.
You can get just as good a vape if not better from a single coil with half the power consumption anyone that says different is either a lier or don't know how to build and wick.
If you are trying to chase clouds with a DNA40 or clone counterpart you're already going in the wrong direction.
It sounds as though to me either you are newish to vaping and following poor advice, or you are trying to get your VF clone to do something it was never intended to be.
Either way if you are in deed chain vaping like that you may need to rethink your nic level and or whatever eliquid you have, keep vaping like that and you'll become an antivaping poster child for the FDA.

 

[Tpat591]

the guts from a fatdaddy v3 will not screw into the existing 510 because the existing 510 inside diameter is slightly larger than the v3 insulator threads, so all attempts fail on converting the existing 510 is a failure.

Realize I'm like a Rottweiler with a bone here but I had a thought on this...If the thread Diameter being slightly larger means about 1mm it might be possible to make a "poor man's" HeliCoil by taking a larger gauge Kanthal say 26g-24g and wrapping it into the threads of the V3 Shorty Insulator before screwing it into the old Waidea 510 barrel. Ought to provide enough diameter reduction and holding power to mount the threaded Delrin Insulator for the V3 Shorty inside the barrel adequately and allow one to keep the original single slotted s/s 510 top plate with the floating pin, should it not?

Now is the point where you patiently explain what an idiot I am and why it will not work.

 

[dwcraig1]

Realize I'm like a Rottweiler with a bone here but I had a thought on this...If the thread Diameter being slightly larger means about 1mm it might be possible to make a "poor man's" HeliCoil by taking a larger gauge Kanthal say 24g-22g and wrapping it into the threads of the V3 Shorty Insulator before screwing it into the old Waidea 510 barrel. Ought to provide enough diameter reduction and holding power to mount the threaded Delrin Insulator for the V3 Shorty inside the barrel adequately and allow one to keep the original single slotted s/s 510 top plate with the floating pin, should it not?

Now is the point where you patiently explain what an idiot I am and why it will not work.

Aside from if it would, why not use nickel? Too soft perhaps?

 

[Tpat591]

Aside from if it would, why not use nickel? Too soft perhaps?

That was my thinking. Besides who stocks nickel that big? You guys know more about this stuff than I do. I'm just throwing stuff out there to see if it might work & since I don't have a V3 shorty here, I can't exactly test it myself.

It was either that or tinning the interior of the barrel threads with solder and re-tapping them.

 

[WeirdWillie]

Realize I'm like a Rottweiler with a bone here but I had a thought on this...If the thread Diameter being slightly larger means about 1mm it might be possible to make a "poor man's" HeliCoil by taking a larger gauge Kanthal say 24g-22g and wrapping it into the threads of the V3 Shorty Insulator before screwing it into the old Waidea 510 barrel. Ought to provide enough diameter reduction and holding power to mount the threaded Delrin Insulator for the V3 Shorty inside the barrel adequately and allow one to keep the original single slotted s/s 510 top plate with the floating pin, should it not?

Now is the point where you patiently explain what an idiot I am and why it will not work.

Your not an idiot, and don't think I didn't think about that too but the original 510 id aboit 1.5mm or so longer than the FDv3 and believe me you are going to need all the clearance you can get.
I tried wrapping the insulator with pipe tape for a temporary fit but when installed plus the thickness of the wire to the center pin it would bottom out on the top of the battery positive board and would eventually short out.
So instead of trying to reinvent the wheel that was already round and working, just the wrong size.
I decided to go with what will work and give me clearance ... problem solved.
No need to try and redneck engineer something when there is already a cheap easy and reliable solution.

 

[RUG GUY]

If you are only getting 1.5- 2 hours on dual 25R's fully charged then yes you have a 2 fold if not more problem
First you need to come up for some oxygen chain vaping every 30 seconds is quite excessive for anyone or any mod.
Second why do you feel you have to have dual coils to get a satisfying vape, two coils mean twice the power consumption.
You can get just as good a vape if not better from a single coil with half the power consumption anyone that says different is either a lier or don't know how to build and wick.
If you are trying to chase clouds with a DNA40 or clone counterpart you're already going in the wrong direction.
It sounds as though to me either you are newish to vaping and following poor advice, or you are trying to get your VF clone to do something it was never intended to be.
Either way if you are in deed chain vaping like that you may need to rethink your nic level and or whatever eliquid you have, keep vaping like that and you'll become an antivaping poster child for the FDA.

Thanks for the reply.. 1.5- 2 hours and My batts are at about 75% down from fully charged.. The Freakshow is set up for dual coils so I built it that way.. My first dripper and the flavor is awesome! I don't care about clouds.. Maybe 30 seconds is a bit of an exaggeration, but not by much.. Have been vaping for about 5 years, but until about 6 weeks ago was plodding along with an original lava tube and crappy old tanks, no airflow etc..then got a KangerTech mega, and have been chasing the best new gear sence.. My KangerTech Sub Mini has a single ni coil build. But the flavor pales next to the dripper.
i have dropped my nic level from 16 to 6 mg as this is so enjoyable I was getting the Heebee Geebees from to much nic from puffing more often.. I have a Freakshow 2 on the way that allows single coil builds.. In the meantime will try to block one of the air vents and do a single coil... So do you think my flask is getting warm from my driving it to hard? Or a problem with the flask? Thanks again for your responce..

 

[WeirdWillie]

Thanks for the reply.. 1.5- 2 hours and My batts are at about 75% down from fully charged.. The Freakshow is set up for dual coils so I built it that way.. My first dropper and the flavor is awesome! I don't care about clouds.. Maybe 30 seconds is a bit of an exaggeration, but not by much.. Have been vaping for about 5 years, but until about 6 weeks ago was plodding along with an original lava tube and crappy old tanks, no airflow etc..then got a KangerTech mega, and have been chasing the best new gear sence.. My KangerTech Sub Mini has a single ni coil build. But the flavor pales next to the dripper.
i have dropped my nic legal from 16 to 6 mg as this is so enjoyable I was getting the Helebee Geebees from to much nic from puffing more often.. I have a Freakshow 2 on the way that allows single coil.. In the meantime will try to block one of the air vents and do a single coil... So do you think my flask is getting warm from my driving it to hard? Or a problem with the flask? Thanks again for your responce..

Hehe ....Yes
Try backing that thing down to a single .15 ohm ni200 coil.
I run a twisted 28/30 .15ohm 10/11 wrap 2.5mm id

 

[Tuegr8]

The Varitube 14mm low profile will work in the Kangxin, with the addition of a washer on the outside, beneath the 510. It's the same length top to bottom as a V3 Shorty, ~12mm. Won't look as good though.

Might have to investigate that option for my KX model. I'm definitely NOT doing anything until I have learned all I can.

 

[cobalt327]

Noob question .. My flask seems to be getting very warm when chain vaping, and the duel coil Ni
build @.15 on a Freakshow is getting very hot..have 25 r batts in it, brand new.. Took each batt out and it would fire fine with one.. Batt life is not very good 75% after about 1.5 hours with a full charge.. Is this a grounding issue? Bad build? Or just normal with puffing on it every 30 seconds or so? Also when I took the batts out to check both were working, there was a burnt smell, I have been charging via USB..
Thanks in advance for any input..

Did your batts come from a reputable supplier?