Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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cobalt327

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LOL! I agree completely! I'll take one for breaking Summers chops relentlessly over 4 Skype conversations until he finally got his boss to send Nicole the review unit and for getting your discovery to Nicole to bring to Waidea's attention for correction. Croak should get one for pointing out the chassis ground & Varitube 2 cent solder washer as a possible fix as well as starting this thread and refereeing it all this time!

Something tells me the three of us will probably have to settle for the warm & fuzzy feeling we get inside for having helped the community get one step closer to a better, more reliable product though!

yvmkj.jpg


Personally if I could get Waidea to start producing a 1:1 clone of the Stig Helix with a ChiNA40 in it, I'd be a happy man!
Hella nice looking mod! Is the spec for weight- 260g- correct? And it's aluminum? That's a CHUNK! lol My dna Zero is 202g and I thought IT was a chunk!! Over twice as much as the Cloupor Mini- which is heavy for its size (116.5g), being made of zinc and all. (all weights w/o battery or atty)

Don't get me wrong- I like a hefty mod. My Hanaa clone box feels kind of flimsy after using the Mini and Zero, it's just 110g empty.
 

TheBloke

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Hey guys! Guess what! My Waidea doesn't work properly! Who'da thunk it? As it's been so wonderful up until now, certainly not me!

I'll start with a little good news - I got the Lemo fixed up with the o-ring, and that gave me my first decent RTA TC vape from last night until today. A basic build, 12 or so wraps of 30 gauge, 0.25Ω.

I have emptied one tank on that build, and as it got dry the wattages fell as expected and I did not get any dry hits.

But what I have continued to notice throughout all my TC vapes thus far, including setting up and using the Lemo, is that, no matter what I did, it never ever showed Temperature Protection. I still had never seen that message once, ever, even when I fired dry wire at 40W / 200°.

So I started doing some proper testing. And the results did not amuse me.

The Summary


  1. I tested this with set temperatures of 200° - 450°, set wattage of 40W, and with three RDA (clones) and builds:
    1. Derringer RDA @ 0.24Ω - 13 wraps of 29G
    2. Marquis RDA @ 0.19Ω - 8 wraps of 30G
    3. K.Loud RDA @ 0.19Ω - 8 wraps of 30G (different coil to one above)
  2. I never get Temperature Protection shown, ever. Instead, it will show firing down to 0.0 watts.
  3. But usually it will fire 0.4 - 0.9 watts
  4. The result is that it is persistently heating to a higher max temperature than configured, which is especially noticeable at low temps and with dry wire.
  5. For example, testing with bare wire: at 200° it will give me 240 - 360; at 300°, 370-450; at 400°, 460-500; at 450°, up to 500.
  6. When I did a cotton burn test at 450°, the cotton got slightly singed/browned.
  7. I also noted that my VF has an auto-cutoff of 23 seconds, a rather strange number! I believe this is not in the genuine chip? But I assume is in the other clones - I can't imagine that's specific to mine as well!


The Video

I maded you a video, so you can tell me how fcked I am!

It's 10 minutes, so I understand if no-one watches it. But if anyone has a moment to skim through it, I would be grateful.

Shown in the video are the first two tests described in The Summary - Derringer @ 0.24 and Marquis @ 0.19. The K.Loud behaved exactly the same so I didn't bother videoing it.

In all tests I was very careful to ensure the build was screwed down as tight as humanly possible. That's also why I did the third test with the K.Loud, as it has a convenient deck for that - it has a screw post for the positive, so I could use pliers to tighten the positive wire between two nuts. On the K.Loud build, I also wrapped both wires twice round their posts/screws before tightening, so the connection could not have been tighter.



  • Derringer test (0.24Ω - 13 wraps of 29G) is first;
  • Marquis test (0.19Ω - 8 wraps of 30G) starts at 4:15.
  • Dry cotton test (with Marquis @ 450°) starts at 7:52.

The Results Table

I summarised the results of the first test in that video, the Derringer RDA with the 0.24Ω build, in the following table:

All fires are @ 40W. In Watts Range, where there is a higher number at the start before a comma, that is a figure other than 40W that showed briefly at the start of the vape.

Temp °Fire #Max tempWatts RangeDuration (s)
20013605.6, 0.7 - 0.917
20022400.0 - 0.423
300145039, 0.8 - 0.910
30023700.3 - 0.723
40015000.918
40024600.0 - 0.823
450155039.7, 0.912
45024900.7 - 0.915
45034902.0, 0.8 - 0.910


One thing I did notice is that when I did multiple fires, the second or third fire was not as far out in temp as the first. Still too high, always. But not as bad.

The Thoughts

It has been working so far in "normal" conditions - with a damp/drying wick. And the problems are mostly noticeable at the lower end of the scale, 200-400F, which is below where I'd ever normally vape.

Nonetheless it did partially fail the key test everyone gives TC mods - it singed cotton when set to 450° F.

And regardless of whether it is in fact usable, which it probably is, it's clearly not doing what it should be doing and, more importantly, not doing what everyone else's Waidea and Kangxin's are doing.

What seems to me the strangest thing is that it never, ever says Temperature Protected. It will say it's firing at 0.0 watts sometimes, which is surely when it should be flashing TP?

What I don't know is do I have two differences/problems, or one? Is it getting the temp wrong because the Temperature Protection mode is not kicking in? Or do I have a revision of the chip that never says TP, just "0.0 watts" (which could be argued to be better, and certainly not much worse), and I have a second problem that is causing it not to hit the right temperature?

I'm rather leaning towards the latter, because otherwise I can't explain how it would never flash TP when it is sometimes reading 0.0 watts. So if so, what would that mean - problems with my 510? Should I expedite my replacement of the existing 510 with a Fat Daddy v3 Shorty?

Any advice, suggestions, commiserations, criticisms of my video taking abilities, or anything at all, much appreciated!
 
Last edited:

WeirdWillie

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Dang I forgot to mention what I did to help insure a good secure case ground instead of just relying on the top cap/screws and 510 ground.
I used AA-DUCT 902LP pure silver electrically conductive epoxy.
What I did was epoxy an 18awg wire in the little compartment underneath the display where the fire button is, and routed it back to the board.
Guess I should hav taken some pictures.
Before anyone ask yes it is highly conductive and is good from –50°C to +170°C
 

Croak

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Right behind you...
Waidea seems to have simply edited out the Temp Protect message on their board, nothing to get knicker twisted about. Mine doesn't display that message, but fires identically to my Kangxin that does flash it from time to time.

As for the temps and burn test, you can replicate pretty much the same thing with a Kangxin or genuine Evolv board (neither of which totally cuts power, ever). Heat soak and resistance climbing make the margin of error on those long unrealistic no-airflow firings of yours too large to be exact.

The cotton burn test is a worthless metric as well, as oft-stated, nobody vapes totally dry cotton, and they don't vape it from an open build deck with no airflow either, and unless you've got a FLIR or thermistor on that coil, you don't know the exact temp, and besides, some singing in the 420-450 range is common even on the real DNA40.

And you can pretty much throw out any results from a Marquis, those long leads screw up the resistance average enough to make it an unreliable platform. As nice as it is for Kanthal builds, it's utter crap for Ni200 builds (long legs, airflow that doesn't reach to the far side of the coil, thick platform heat-soaking).


TL;DR: There's nothing wrong with your Waidea. You're overthinking it and expecting too much.
 

WeirdWillie

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ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 4, 2014
895
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Houston, Texas
Hey guys! Guess what! My Waidea doesn't work properly! Who'da thunk it? As it's been so wonderful up until now, certainly not me!

I'll start with a little good news - I got the Lemo fixed up with the o-ring, and that gave me my first decent RTA TC vape from last night until today. A basic build, 12 or so wraps of 30 gauge, 0.25Ω.

I have emptied one tank on that build, and as it got dry the wattages fell as expected and I did not get any dry hits.

But what I have continued to notice throughout all my TC vapes thus far, including setting up and using the Lemo, is that, no matter what I did, it never ever showed Temperature Protection. I still had never seen that message once, ever, even when I fired dry wire at 40W / 200°.

So I started doing some proper testing. And the results did not amuse me.

The Summary


  1. I tested this with set temperatures of 200° - 450°, set wattage of 40W, and with three RDA (clones) and builds:
    1. Derringer RDA @ 0.24Ω - 13 wraps of 29G
    2. Marquis RDA @ 0.19Ω - 8 wraps of 30G
    3. K.Loud RDA @ 0.19Ω - 8 wraps of 30G (different coil to one above)
  2. I never get Temperature Protection shown, ever. Instead, it will show firing down to 0.0 watts.
  3. But usually it will fire 0.4 - 0.9 watts
  4. The result is that it is persistently heating to a higher max temperature than configured, which is especially noticeable at low temps and with dry wire.
  5. For example, testing with bare wire: at 200° it will give me 240 - 360; at 300°, 370-450; at 400°, 460-500; at 450°, up to 500.
  6. When I did a cotton burn test at 450°, the cotton got slightly singed/browned.
  7. I also noted that my VF has an auto-cutoff of 23 seconds, a rather strange number! I believe this is not in the genuine chip? But I assume is in the other clones - I can't imagine that's specific to mine as well!


The Video

I maded you a video, so you can tell me how fcked I am!

It's 10 minutes, so I understand if no-one watches it. But if anyone has a moment to skim through it, I would be grateful.

Shown in the video are the first two tests described in The Summary - Derringer @ 0.24 and Marquis @ 0.19. The K.Loud behaved exactly the same so I didn't bother videoing it.

In all tests I was very careful to ensure the build was screwed down as tight as humanly possible. That's also why I did the third test with the K.Loud, as it has a convenient deck for that - it has a screw post for the positive, so I could use pliers to tighten the positive wire between two nuts. On the K.Loud build, I also wrapped both wires twice round their posts/screws before tightening, so the connection could not have been tighter.



  • Derringer test (0.24Ω - 13 wraps of 29G) is first;
  • Marquis test (0.19Ω - 8 wraps of 30G) starts at 4:15.
  • Dry cotton test (with Marquis @ 450°) starts at 7:52.

The Results Table

I summarised the results of the first test in that video, the Derringer RDA with the 0.24Ω build, in the following table:

All fires are @ 40W. In Watts Range, where there is a higher number at the start before a comma, that is a figure other than 40W that showed briefly at the start of the vape.

Temp °Fire #Max tempWatts RangeDuration (s)
20013605.6, 0.7 - 0.917
20022400.0 - 0.423
300145039, 0.8 - 0.910
30023700.3 - 0.723
40015000.918
40024600.0 - 0.823
450155039.7, 0.912
45024900.7 - 0.915
45034902.0, 0.8 - 0.910


One thing I did notice is that when I did multiple fires, the second or third fire was not as far out in temp as the first. Still too high, always. But not as bad.

The Thoughts

It has been working so far in "normal" conditions - with a damp/drying wick. And the problems are mostly noticeable at the lower end of the scale, 200-400F, which is below where I'd ever normally vape.

Nonetheless it did partially fail the key test everyone gives TC mods - it singed cotton when set to 450° F.

And regardless of whether it is in fact usable, which it probably is, it's clearly not doing what it should be doing and, more importantly, not doing what everyone else's Waidea and Kangxin's are doing.

What seems to me the strangest thing is that it never, ever says Temperature Protected. It will say it's firing at 0.0 watts sometimes, which is surely when it should be flashing TP?

What I don't know is do I have two differences/problems, or one? Is it getting the temp wrong because the Temperature Protection mode is not kicking in? Or do I have a revision of the chip that never says TP, just "0.0 watts" (which could be argued to be better, and certainly not much worse), and I have a second problem that is causing it not to hit the right temperature?

I'm rather leaning towards the latter, because otherwise I can't explain how it would never flash TP when it is sometimes reading 0.0 watts. So if so, what would that mean - problems with my 510? Should I expedite my replacement of the existing 510 with a Fat Daddy v3 Shorty?

Any advice, suggestions, commiserations, criticisms of my video taking abilities, or anything at all, much appreciated!


Does sound like grounding and/or 510 issues to me.

Edit
Never mind I not thinking today... hitting TP real early and/or open atomizer would be an indicator of ground and/or 510 issues
along with jumping in and out of TP mode.
 
Last edited:

lenon

Full Member
Nov 1, 2010
62
51
TX
Hey guys! Guess what! My Waidea doesn't work properly! Who'da thunk it? As it's been so wonderful up until now, certainly not me!

I'll start with a little good news - I got the Lemo fixed up with the o-ring, and that gave me my first decent RTA TC vape from last night until today. A basic build, 12 or so wraps of 30 gauge, 0.25Ω.

I have emptied one tank on that build, and as it got dry the wattages fell as expected and I did not get any dry hits.

But what I have continued to notice throughout all my TC vapes thus far, including setting up and using the Lemo, is that, no matter what I did, it never ever showed Temperature Protection. I still had never seen that message once, ever, even when I fired dry wire at 40W / 200°.

So I started doing some proper testing. And the results did not amuse me.

The Summary


  1. I tested this with set temperatures of 200° - 450°, set wattage of 40W, and with three RDA (clones) and builds:
    1. Derringer RDA @ 0.24Ω - 13 wraps of 29G
    2. Marquis RDA @ 0.19Ω - 8 wraps of 30G
    3. K.Loud RDA @ 0.19Ω - 8 wraps of 30G (different coil to one above)
  2. I never get Temperature Protection shown, ever. Instead, it will show firing down to 0.0 watts.
  3. But usually it will fire 0.4 - 0.9 watts
  4. The result is that it is persistently heating to a higher max temperature than configured, which is especially noticeable at low temps and with dry wire.
  5. For example, testing with bare wire: at 200° it will give me 240 - 360; at 300°, 370-450; at 400°, 460-500; at 450°, up to 500.
  6. When I did a cotton burn test at 450°, the cotton got slightly singed/browned.
  7. I also noted that my VF has an auto-cutoff of 23 seconds, a rather strange number! I believe this is not in the genuine chip? But I assume is in the other clones - I can't imagine that's specific to mine as well!


The Video

I maded you a video, so you can tell me how fcked I am!

It's 10 minutes, so I understand if no-one watches it. But if anyone has a moment to skim through it, I would be grateful.

Shown in the video are the first two tests described in The Summary - Derringer @ 0.24 and Marquis @ 0.19. The K.Loud behaved exactly the same so I didn't bother videoing it.

In all tests I was very careful to ensure the build was screwed down as tight as humanly possible. That's also why I did the third test with the K.Loud, as it has a convenient deck for that - it has a screw post for the positive, so I could use pliers to tighten the positive wire between two nuts. On the K.Loud build, I also wrapped both wires twice round their posts/screws before tightening, so the connection could not have been tighter.



  • Derringer test (0.24Ω - 13 wraps of 29G) is first;
  • Marquis test (0.19Ω - 8 wraps of 30G) starts at 4:15.
  • Dry cotton test (with Marquis @ 450°) starts at 7:52.

The Results Table

I summarised the results of the first test in that video, the Derringer RDA with the 0.24Ω build, in the following table:

All fires are @ 40W. In Watts Range, where there is a higher number at the start before a comma, that is a figure other than 40W that showed briefly at the start of the vape.

Temp °Fire #Max tempWatts RangeDuration (s)
20013605.6, 0.7 - 0.917
20022400.0 - 0.423
300145039, 0.8 - 0.910
30023700.3 - 0.723
40015000.918
40024600.0 - 0.823
450155039.7, 0.912
45024900.7 - 0.915
45034902.0, 0.8 - 0.910


One thing I did notice is that when I did multiple fires, the second or third fire was not as far out in temp as the first. Still too high, always. But not as bad.

The Thoughts

It has been working so far in "normal" conditions - with a damp/drying wick. And the problems are mostly noticeable at the lower end of the scale, 200-400F, which is below where I'd ever normally vape.

Nonetheless it did partially fail the key test everyone gives TC mods - it singed cotton when set to 450° F.

And regardless of whether it is in fact usable, which it probably is, it's clearly not doing what it should be doing and, more importantly, not doing what everyone else's Waidea and Kangxin's are doing.

What seems to me the strangest thing is that it never, ever says Temperature Protected. It will say it's firing at 0.0 watts sometimes, which is surely when it should be flashing TP?

What I don't know is do I have two differences/problems, or one? Is it getting the temp wrong because the Temperature Protection mode is not kicking in? Or do I have a revision of the chip that never says TP, just "0.0 watts" (which could be argued to be better, and certainly not much worse), and I have a second problem that is causing it not to hit the right temperature?

I'm rather leaning towards the latter, because otherwise I can't explain how it would never flash TP when it is sometimes reading 0.0 watts. So if so, what would that mean - problems with my 510? Should I expedite my replacement of the existing 510 with a Fat Daddy v3 Shorty?

Any advice, suggestions, commiserations, criticisms of my video taking abilities, or anything at all, much appreciated!


Yeah, Croak and Anson are exactly right. What you're seeing is normal and expected behavior. The problem is that you're firing @ 40 watts under unrealistic conditions. Your flask is pumping 40 watts into those coils for ~1 second right at the beginning of your fire. Because the coil is completely dry, unwicked, and has 0 air flow, that short pulse of high power is heating it up past the limit you've set. Then it backs off to less than one watt in an attempt to cool it down. Again though, you have basically nothing working to cool the coil, so the power just stays extremely low, and the temp high.

As for your cotton burn test, your cotton should get a little singed at 450. 420 is where it should come out clean. But again, as Croak said, it's really a pretty useless metric anyway since it's done under unrealistic conditions.

Edit: Go try those tests again while holding the coil in front of something that blows cool/cold air, like, your car air conditioner set as cold as it will go (if you have one), or a strong fan. I would think you'd see very different results.
 
Last edited:

sando7

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Silver Waidea VF V3 from FC US Warehouse showing tracking of "Departed Post Office" in NC, so should finally be here Wednesday or Thursday. Really looking forward to it - glad it didn't get delayed as long as the ipv4.

-Treeburner


same here got up from my nap and "Hoop there it is", mine is scheduled for the 23rd, but i'm real close so i expect it a day early at least i'm hoping....good news for us
 

Tpat591

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Hella nice looking mod! Is the spec for weight- 260g- correct? And it's aluminum? That's a CHUNK! lol My DNA Zero is 202g and I thought IT was a chunk!! Over twice as much as the Cloupor Mini- which is heavy for its size (116.5g), being made of zinc and all. (all weights w/o battery or atty)
Don't get me wrong- I like a hefty mod. My Hanaa clone box feels kind of flimsy after using the Mini and Zero, it's just 110g empty.

Tis a beast! The sidewinder style box mods have always weighed a ton but I always liked them. Having a DNA40 in the form factor is something I want to see done. It is a 26650 mod so the weight is not unexpected and the Brass Boot section adds a bit of weight as well. Just as well they haven't cloned it yet because I've been spending way too much on equipment I don't really need lately. Since I found the Egrip w/RBA for out & about it is less of a priority these days.
 
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