Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[WeirdWillie]

Ok when I set my meter to 2v setting (since I dont have a 20v seeting on meter only 600v, 200v 2v & 200mv) and I place positive lead on battery bottom and neg lead on bottom of atty and I set watts to 30w on flask and fire the meter shows -.473 now when i do this same test on my Kanger ipv mini set to 30w my meter shows -.121 and when i set my MOXIE mod to 30w and perform the same test my meter shows -.010

Can some one tell me what this means? It looks as if the FV is higher but is it showing a bad ground?

Edit!!!!!!!!! so i tried the FV again this time set to 23w and performed the same test and help the fire button steady still it leveled out on the meter reading and I get a reading of -.012 then it goes to no - and shows .190

is this ok?

I am so totally confused now. It seems to be working correct it does not do the stop firing like I said before in earlier post with the Kanger mini tank. I think i was just letting up on the button maybe.

I am starting to think that reading this thread has made me paranoid and it is working correct and I haven't even tried it with the ni200 coils yet only in non temp control mode.

I think you may be getting paranoid and reading too much into it.

Before you get too deep off out in left field lets start out with the most simple of troubleshooting first.
checking voltage while dry firing a DNA40 without an atty attached is pretty useless in and of it's self

What atty and what kind of build are you running?
Have you tried a different atty with a different build?
What is it exactly that you feel it is or isn't doing?
Have you tried cleaning your 510 connections?

 

[Vassago01]

I use the setting on the meter that I have that I would use to check the 18650 battery but the 2 volt scale as long as it's DC sounds good to me. As far as 0.473 v, if correct is quite a bit.

I did the volt check again with 23w and I get an initial reading of -.012 but if I continue to hold it goes to .190 (without the - in front) and seems to stop. Mind you this is holding the fire button for Between 5 and 8 seconds. I didn't want to keep doing this cause the atty was getting hot. Dual coil kanthol build at .7 ohm.

So DW does this sound ok?

 

[Vassago01]

I think you may be getting paranoid and reading too much into it.

Before you get too deep off out in left field lets start out with the most simple of troubleshooting first.
checking voltage while dry firing a DNA40 without an atty attached is pretty useless in and of it's self

What atty and what kind of build are you running?
Have you tried a different atty with a different build?
What is it exactly that you feel it is or isn't doing?
Have you tried cleaning your 510 connections?

I was just curious initially when I first got it that maybe it wasn't performing the same at 15w as it was at 30w. I since unscrewed top cap checked ground and all looks tight and ok. I then put it back together and it seems to fire with a difference now. On to the volt thing someone said to check a ground you use the volt meter and check the readings. And this is where I got confused. I used to different attys one it, a stillaire v2 with a .7 dual coil build and the other is a kanger mini with a .8 single coil build. With the stillaire attached I did the volt check thing and got with 23w on VF I get an initial reading of -.012 but if I continue to hold it goes to .190 (without the - in front) and seems to stop. Mind you this is holding the fire button for Between 5 and 8 seconds. I didn't want to keep doing this cause the atty was getting hot.

I think I am putting the cart before the horse here and it maybe working correct since now I definitely see a difference between 15 and 30w when firing. I also cleaned the battery cap threads just to make sure they were getting a good connection.

 

[WeirdWillie]

Here's something I want you to try.
Take an atty with a coil attached, no cotton in the coil.
attach the atty to the VF clone, with your meter set to VDC (Volts DC) I want you to test the voltage across the post when fired.

 

[Vassago01]

Here's something I want you to try.
Take an atty with a coil attached, no cotton in the coil.
attach the atty to the VF clone, with your meter set to VDC (Volts DC) I want you to test the voltage across the post when fired.

so when you say post you mean the neg and positive on atty?

 

[WeirdWillie]

so when you say post you mean the neg and positive on atty?

yes

 

[Vassago01]

yes

ok I built a quick .98 ohm single coil on my IGOw plus atty put it on the VF and fired it at 17w the VF readout showed 1.0 ohm with 4.1v at 17w when I fire it with my meter attached i get a reading on my meter that says - 03.6v

 

[WeirdWillie]

ok I built a quick .98 ohm single coil on my IGOw plus atty put it on the VF and fired it at 17w the VF readout showed 1.0 ohm with 4.1v at 17w when I fire it with my meter attached i get a reading on my meter that says - 03.6v

Thats ok
now take one lead to one of the brass battery caps and the other to the atty positive post.
What do you get?
BTW you will get a slight voltage drop threw your meter thus the 3.6v on your meter

 

[Vassago01]

Thats ok
now take one lead to one of the brass battery caps and the other to the atty positive post.
What do you get?
BTW you will get a slight voltage drop threw your meter thus the 3.6v on your meter

with neg lead off meter to brass battery cap and pos lead on atty pos post my meter says 3.4

 

[WeirdWillie]

with neg lead off meter to brass battery cap and pos lead on atty pos post my meter says 3.4

You just proved your ground is good, voltage is good and wattage is good.
I=E/R and P=IxE
P= power (watts)
E= electromotive force (volts)
I= intensity (amps)
R= resistance (ohms)
4.1v/.98= 4.18367 ... I= 4.18367
4.18367x4.1v= 17.1530 watts

Now calm thy self quit being obsessively paranoid and enjoy a vape

 

[sando7]

nevermind

 

[Vassago01]

You just proved your ground is good, voltage is good and wattage is good.
I=E/R and P=IxE
P= power (watts)
E= electromotive force (volts)
I= intensity (amps)
R= resistance (ohms)
4.1v/.98= 4.18367 ... I= 4.18367
4.18367x4.1v= 17.1530 watts

Now calm thy self quit being obsessively paranoid and enjoy a vape

Tank you sir, this is by far the best test for checking ground I have seen. I actually understand what I did and what I was seeing. Thank you again WeirdWillie

 

[Vassago01]

One last question instead of changing out the 510 on the VF couldn't you just solder the ground loop between the brass nut and the smooth nut on other side of loop. essentially soldering the loop on better? Just curious not that i need to perform this since Willie showed my ground is ok.

Seems like it would be easier to do then swapping out the 510 for the fatdaddy 510. I mean if you are ok with the non spring loaded 510 that's on it.

 

[WeirdWillie]

I'm a electrical engineering professor.
I usually get paid for this.

The problem with trying to check voltage and ground like you were, was that you forgot you were dealing with a regulated mod not a mechanical mod.
Regulated mods look for the coil resistance before they will fire simple if/then or if/then/else statements in the programing prevent firing.

example:
void applyVoltage() {
// the "if" clause: Atomizer resistance must be measured
if (isResistance){
// the "then" clause: apply voltage
currentvoltage--;
}
}

or
more like this

void applyVoltage() {
if (isResistance) {
currentVoltage--;
} else {
System.err.println("Check Atomizer");
}
}
I'm sure they are using tables to calculate wattage, temperature and determine if to use temperature mode or not but you get the idea.

 

[WeirdWillie]

One last question instead of changing out the 510 on the VF couldn't you just solder the ground loop between the brass nut and the smooth nut on other side of loop. essentially soldering the loop on better? Just curious not that i need to perform this since Willie showed my ground is ok.

Seems like it would be easier to do then swapping out the 510 for the fatdaddy 510. I mean if you are ok with the non spring loaded 510 that's on it.

Yes you could just solder the 510 ground wire to the brass nut, but this still negates the fact that there is still not a secure low impedance chassis ground it's self other than whats going to the top cap.

The Fatdaddy v3 shorty is an upgrade for those that prefer a spring loaded 510 that use a wide variety of atomizers with varying 510's to always insure they make contact.

 

[Ryedan]

It's not prone to shorting, if that's what you're worried about. It's glass, and the ribbon cable is sealed inside the glass. I just clean mine with a micro-fiber cloth when it needs it.

Some folks use a bit of mobile phone screen protector film across the top.

Yup, that was what I was worried about. Thanks for the info Croak

 

[Phone Guy]

Well my flask from focal got to the usa yesterday. So hopefully this week I should receive it.

 

[sando7]

..........................

i'm getting a decent vape

 

[dwcraig1]

I recently got a multimeter and although I didn't believe I was currently having any ground issues, I ran this test just now for funsies (and to find something else to do with my DMM!)

I pushed the red lead into the groove of the battery cap (and also tried one of the vent holes), and held the black lead against the base of my Lemo RTA, as low down as possible on the bottom gnurling.

I tested in wattage mode with a 1.40 single coil. The value I got depended on the wattage the mod was firing:

At 40W, it read -0.0175 (-17.55 in Millivolt mode)
At 35W, it read -0.0154 (-15.44 in Millivolt mode)
At 10W, it read -0.0030 (-3.10 in Millivolt mode)

Nice to have a good reading I have taken my top plate off a couple of times, and the most recent time I ensured the hex screws were tightened down as hard as humanly possible - pressing down on the plate while screwing, as Croak advised.

The voltage readings of the above post pretty much indicate that there is something to the way I posted about how to tell if the top plate is properly (grounded) to the main body.
So in the interest of getting a little deeper into this I took the liberty of loosening the four screws of my top plate and got voltage readings all the way up to 2 volts with the board turning off.
Now when I re-tightened the screws and checked voltage again it was 0.1 volts (was 0.03 before). So then I see this small gap when holding it to the light because while the screws were tight the plate wasn't squarely against the body. After re-doing it the voltage reading went back to 0.03 @ 30 watts with a 1Ω load. It make no difference whether it's a regulated device or not as this is looking at the power supply to the board, not from it. As long as the board turns on and has a load and the threads of the battery caps/housing are clean this works.

So it seems that the way I posted about how to tell if the top plate is connected good or not told me I had a problem with the top plates grounding to the main body, pretty good for a test that some say doesn't work.

This post is more about maintaining my credibility than anything else. For sure I'm not trying to start any kind of p'n match of sort.

 

[dwcraig1]

Does the Waidea VF use a balanced charger? I don't recognize the edge of the board in the picture below and am wondering why it has a wire coming in from both sides.