Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[Vassago01]

I ran them upwards of 480-500F after refinement on my real dna40, 22-25W, not that that matters much. My STmini doesn't really fit well on the Waidea so haven't tested it on that.

One thing to note, apparently the ni200 coils are not meant for use with the OG subtank (I don't know why just what I've read), so you made a good choice putting it in the mini.

I jacked it up to 480 and it's way better, so now I'm at 480 temp and 27.5w and seems to be a better warmer vape.

Not sure what I was expecting with temp sensing vaping. Maybe I thought the gods would shine on me and it would be like nothing I experienced before but I guess it's just a healthier way to vape maybe.

I am happy to say all is well with the Waidea VF knock on wood.

BTW what is refinement I don't see that on the VF clone but read about it in another thread. However they didn't go into detail as to what it was.

 

[Tpat591]

refinement is the mod monitoring resistance of the atty during idle periods to get a closer reading of actual resistance of the coil. Kangxin has a very active refinement in earlier models but they inhibit this feature more in the Waidea. You will see it when it rereads the atty resistance upon waking from sleep. Due to the grounding issue Waidea will usually get the initial resistance of the atty wrong, but when waking from sleep, it will refine that reading more accurately.

 

[Phone Guy]

Got my flask from focal on Wednesday the 29th. So I think that was what? 13 days? (16th to 29th) is that right? I'll have to look.

Anyway it's impressive. Looks and feels awesome. The 1 second delay in firing is annoying, the scroll speed of the wattage is Insanely fast, the top plate is slightly crooked, but it works out of the box. I have not opened it, I will when my dna40 arrives. I have a fat daddy Vapes connector, not sure which one, I'd have to go back thru my emails and see what I ordered back then.

Oh and using vtc5 batteries the battery caps don't sit completely flush, they need another quarter turn. I'll post some pictures later today. I've been awake for about 20 hours and obviously have no life since I'm posting at 4:30am my time. LOL

 

[Croak]

Got my flask from focal on Wednesday the 29th. So I think that was what? 13 days? (16th to 29th) is that right? I'll have to look.

Anyway it's impressive. Looks and feels awesome. The 1 second delay in firing is annoying, the scroll speed of the wattage is Insanely fast, the top plate is slightly crooked, but it works out of the box. I have not opened it, I will when my dna40 arrives. I have a fat daddy Vapes connector, not sure which one, I'd have to go back thru my emails and see what I ordered back then.

Oh and using vtc5 batteries the battery caps don't sit completely flush, they need another quarter turn. I'll post some pictures later today. I've been awake for about 20 hours and obviously have no life since I'm posting at 4:30am my time. LOL

Spend some time working the battery caps, threading and unthreading them rapidly at various points in their travel, and cleaning the caps and flask threads with alcohol as you go, and you might want to take a jeweller's flat blade screwdriver or X-acto knife (carefully!) to the inside of the threads on the flask to (carefully!) scrape out some of the extra anodizing. Shouldn't take long, and you'll get flush mounted and perfectly indexed caps (slots lined up the same angle), that work well enough to tighten or loosen with just finger or thumb pressure, and you'll pick up something like an eighth to a quarter turn of extra travel too. The threading is fairly well done, the prep before anodizing was not.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Kangxin has a very active refinement in earlier models but they inhibit this feature more in the Waidea.

I missed this?? Refinement? Really?? I dont really see anything on my kangxin v2 but I am seeing something very much like it on the heatvape (probs a KX-50D), at least with some setups.

 

[ThunderDan]

I was under the impression the ChiNA40 boards didn't have refinement?

 

[HDMontana]

My Kangxin V3 does a good job of refinement. Once in awhile, after filling tank and putting it back on, resistance will read a little high, but after a few firings it comes back down to where it should be.

HD

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I was under the impression the ChiNA40 boards didn't have refinement?

me too but the heatvape is doing something to my kanger Ni200 coils which are going from 0.14 to 0.12 in failry short order...Havent seen it with anything else though so it could be the coils (I wouldnt be suprised to be honest).

 

[TheotherSteveS]

My Kangxin V3 does a good job of refinement. Once in awhile, after filling tank and putting it back on, resistance will read a little high, but after a few firings it comes back down to where it should be.

HD

now you mention it, mine does that too! I just thought it was due to a lack of real-time resistnace display but I guess that doesnt make much sense..

 

[txtard]

Mine's been working ok for a week. This morning it would not stay in temp control mode. As soon as it would ask if it was a new coil and you said yes or same coil it would go back out of temp mode. I put 2 fresh 25r's in and it's now working again.
The batteries that came out were at 3.85 volts. Is this the famous ground issue? O this is a waidea also.

 

[dwcraig1]

Mine's been working ok for a week. This morning it would not stay in temp control mode. As soon as it would ask if it was a new coil and you said yes or same coil it would go back out of temp mode. I put 2 fresh 25r's in and it's now working again.
The batteries that came out were at 3.85 volts. Is this the famous ground issue? O this is a waidea also.

About where was the battery indicator when at 3.85 v ?

 

[dwcraig1]

So in the interest of science I pulled out the two batteries and replaced them with one VCT3, I should be able to run that one down in this life time.

 

[txtard]

About where was the battery indicator when at 3.85 v ?

The indicator had barely moved. It works great in non temp mode. Even with the fresh batteries in it, it won't stay in temp mode. Now when I take the batteries out and put them back in it will stay in temp mode. This is messin with my head.
.

 

[WeirdWillie]

The indicator had barely moved. It works great in non temp mode. Even with the fresh batteries in it, it won't stay in temp mode. Now when I take the batteries out and put them back in it will stay in temp mode. This is messin with my head.
.

Either you have a flaky coil build, which is where I'd start first.
Or grounding issues.
Ni200 and DNA40 is unforgiving when it comes to poor connections anywhere, remember you are dealing with a very tiny resistance to begin with, cuppled with the fact that a negitive voltage is being sent to the atty, connections and grounding has to be without a doubt solid.

Everyone is quick to blame the device when in fact a large precentage of the time it's user/build error and not device error.

 

[TheBloke]

While we're (sort of) on the subject of conductivity and so on, I wonder if anyone would favour me with an answer to the following general, mostly-OT question?

Is there a reason why the positive post of most attys, and mods, is generally a high conductive material (copper, brass) whereas the negative is usually just stainless steel?

I thought that DC positive/negative was reversible - like how I could plug in a two-prong power plug either way around, and put in a single battery either way around. So why is the positive worthy of having a highly conductive construction, and the negative is not?

Or is it simply that the positive is a smaller amount of metal, and doesn't form part of the threading/structure, and so is easier to make out of a softer metal like copper? Whereas the negative is often the whole thread area and the deck, which wouldn't last long if made out of a softer/weaker/non-stainless metal?

So is it a compromise? It would be ideal (for conductivity) if both positive and negative were copper or brass, but as a compromise it's better than nothing if just one of them is?

 

[Croak]

This isn't mains power here, it's DC. Polarity matters. A lot.

As for using more conductive materials, I think you're making a bad assumption there. Most quality mods have highly conductive materials for both power and ground. Don't confuse mods with atomizers. Atomizers concentrate on having a highly conductive positive to combat voltage drop, and they don't really give a hoot about negative because that's the mod's job, the atty is just there to pass that current on to the coil in a (hopefully) efficient manner.

 

[damped]

Finally screws and Ti wire (AWG 26) arrived, I couldn't find (at least not easy) screws with a hex or torx but the cross I received do their job very good, I could tighten them very strong and the top plate sits a lot more secure then with the supplied screws, I also cleaned (with a dremel) the countersinks on the top plate.
About the Ti build my first impressions are positive, I knew ni200 had some taste but now with Ti I know that kanthal also have it's own taste, with Ti no taste at all (till now).
Got to use it a little more before I'm sure of that.
Still very pleased with mine Waidea VF! it's working reliable on every aspect.

 

[Vassago01]

Finally screws and Ti wire (AWG 26) arrived, I couldn't find (at least not easy) screws with a hex or torx but the cross I received do their job very good, I could tighten them very strong and the top plate sits a lot more secure then with the supplied screws, I also cleaned (with a dremel) the countersinks on the top plate.
About the Ti build my first impressions are positive, I knew ni200 had some taste but now with Ti I know that kanthal also have it's own taste, with Ti no taste at all (till now).
Got to use it a little more before I'm sure of that.
Still very pleased with mine Waidea VF! it's working reliable on every aspect.

How about giving us a link and size for the screws... I know I would like better ones also.

 

[subby]

My Waida flask is still going strong after having it a few weeks.

My only complaints are that it marks and scratches up pretty easy, mine is a silver one and it has a few scuff marks on it already, nothing major but it did not take much to get the marks on it, the finish seems to scratch rather easily.

Also when I have around 1/4 battery left it starts to not fire at the wattage it is set at, say I have it set for 36w it may only fire upto 29-30w, like it is struggling to apply the full wattage, a change of fresh batteries fixes it up but I don't think it should be doing it. I usually change out the battery at 1/4 because of this but they are usually still at around 3.6v when this happens and I get the weak battery display when they are around 3.5-3.4v, could this be because of the bad grounding in these flasks? I think with 3.6v still left on it it should still be able to fire at full wattage? Just throwing it out there to see if anyone has any ideas.

Cheers.

 

[dwcraig1]

My Waida flask is still going strong after having it a few weeks.

My only complaints are that it marks and scratches up pretty easy, mine is a silver one and it has a few scuff marks on it already, nothing major but it did not take much to get the marks on it, the finish seems to scratch rather easily.

Also when I have around 1/4 battery left it starts to not fire at the wattage it is set at, say I have it set for 36w it may only fire upto 29-30w, like it is struggling to apply the full wattage, a change of fresh batteries fixes it up but I don't think it should be doing it. I usually change out the battery at 1/4 because of this but they are usually still at around 3.6v when this happens and I get the weak battery display when they are around 3.5-3.4v, could this be because of the bad grounding in these flasks? I think with 3.6v still left on it it should still be able to fire at full wattage? Just throwing it out there to see if anyone has any ideas.

Cheers.

Just something to think about , while the battery may measure 3.4 volts with no load it is considerably lower with a load.
As I posted this morning I removed my two batteries and installed just one 1500 mah and ran it down to the weak battery error. It worked just fine right to the point where I got the "weak Battery" error and at that point it stopped working (firing). Measured out at 3.38 volts.