I should add, the use of Titanium wire is done at your own risk, there is a lot of debate about Ti safety for coils, etc... SO DO YOUR RESEARCH BEFORE USING ANYTHING.
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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Will certainly check that sub-forum out. Thanks a ton for the help. I have about 99 feet of NI200 from back when I built NR-R wires (as you can tell, I seldom did so) so I suppose I have plenty to play with. In any way, I'll probably pick up the Vapor Flask soon.
Is it? I access using tapatalk, so I don't see the forums listed the way a desktop browser does. LOL
Looks good! I bought mine in a shop specialized for hobby tools etc, they don't ship that's why I couldn't give a link.
When you tighten the screws make sure you use the right screwdriver or bit with a good fit and don't forget the screw-thread is much stronger than the mod-thread (rvs vs aluminium) so don't tighten them to much, you can destroy the mod-threads easy.
Make sure you cleaned (or use dremel) the surfaces between mod and top plate and also the countersink holes on the top plate for the best conductivity.
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I really don't see the need for new screws, the stock screws are decent quality and IMO Torx is far superior to Phillips in this application as well...it's damned hard to strip a Torx head if you use the proper tool, and therefore you can tighten it down much better.
If it's just a matter of not having a proper tool that motivates you to move on to Phillips, well, a good Torx driver is about the same price as a batch of 100 of those screws listed above.
If it's just a matter of not having a proper tool that motivates you to move on to Phillips, well, a good Torx driver is about the same price as a batch of 100 of those screws listed above.
But they are hex if I'm seeing them good enough.
I see little to no problem with them also,it's not like you have to run them in and out everyday.
I see little to no problem with them also,it's not like you have to run them in and out everyday.
I'm using twisted 28 awg Nickel/Kanthal and it's bloody fantastic - it certainly makes it a lot easier to build and keeps the coils in shape when re-wicking.
I'd recommend it wholeheartedly.
After reading threw a couple of pages of responses I think these clones have a lot of problems
One must consider just how many were produced and this is the place that you'll hear about the ones that failed...among other things.
Spend any time in the authentic Vapor Flask thread? No shortage of people reporting problems there, from grounding issues to DNA40 failures to fit and finish issues. Same pretty much applies to any other popular mod, for that matter, from the iStick to the Provari.
I really don't see the need for new screws, the stock screws are decent quality and IMO Torx is far superior to Phillips in this application as well...it's damned hard to strip a Torx head if you use the proper tool, and therefore you can tighten it down much better.
If it's just a matter of not having a proper tool that motivates you to move on to Phillips, well, a good Torx driver is about the same price as a batch of 100 of those screws listed above.
I bought cross ones because the shop had them in stock at that moment but like I said you can choose what you prefer.
I saw others doubting about the supplied screws (is it hex or torx) and I have a lot of screwdrivers and bits but none of them gives me a solid feeling on the supplied screws, I like the new ones more.
It's "not needed" to replace them like it's also "not needed" to replace the 510 with a Fat daddy spring-loaded one but I did
Which vapour flask clone has the least problems I wanna try temperature control vaping for cheap
We have reported the recommended corrections of using a solder ring terminal at the 510 and soldering a secondary ground wire from the chassis to the ground terminal of the ChiNA40 board to Waidea and supposedly they are taking the recommendations seriously and instituting them on the manufacturing lines. If you can hold out a few weeks, the Waidea will definitely be the one to get when these changes are implemented.
Before you order one it is recommend that you confirm with the place you buy it that the Ground repair changes have been implemented in the unit you will buy.
If you are comfortable opening up your equipment & doing a couple of fixes, the Waidea is still the one to buy, you just get it faster.
Before you order one it is recommend that you confirm with the place you buy it that the Ground repair changes have been implemented in the unit you will buy.
If you are comfortable opening up your equipment & doing a couple of fixes, the Waidea is still the one to buy, you just get it faster.
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So still no spring loaded 510 connection or maybe they will surprise us
, I think if I was in the market now (or a few weeks) for a new mod it would be one of my first requirements. New TC mods are coming out every week (or it feels like that) so when new buyers are comparing just the hardware specs between mods it's a -1 for Waidea. On the other hand it's good to see that like you said "they are taking the recommendations seriously and instituting them on the manufacturing lines" good thing for new buyers sure, only one thing I ask myself now is how is it possible to make such a design fault for company like Waidea? it's not so complex, you don't need high educated engineers as employees to tell you about the importance of solid chassis grounding or maybe it was a economical decision in the production proces, I don't know, maybe it's because sometimes I forget that they are a cloning company and mine expectations about them are just too high and maybe also not fair considering the price.But still I can recommend this mod for new buyers especially when waidea implement the given recommendations.
It's because TC and the DNA40 are new to them. They're just doing what worked perfectly fine for the DNA30 and its clones, and all the Yihi boards prior to the SX350J.
Just to point out, Vaporflask did this very same thing when they released the authentic 2.1 version of the flask with the DNA40 inside, with inadequate grounding. They didn't correct this for about a month in production, and required a warranty return to fix for people with the early versions. What do you want to bet Waidea had one of those early, non-retrofitted versions when they started work on cloning the device?
Just to point out, Vaporflask did this very same thing when they released the authentic 2.1 version of the flask with the DNA40 inside, with inadequate grounding. They didn't correct this for about a month in production, and required a warranty return to fix for people with the early versions. What do you want to bet Waidea had one of those early, non-retrofitted versions when they started work on cloning the device?
No I'm not gonna bet on that
but thx for your liable explanation, but don't you think they could have known it because it was already a well known issue when Waidea started with the V3, you should think they do some research before the cloning. But also I'm not sure about that, I'm not familiar with the release dates.But to be honest those things also happens when you buy from a well-established company.
Well, keep in mind that the VF 2.1 didn't release until around November 2014, and Waidea has been working on a clone of it since at least December.
And the problem isn't really that well known, unless you spend an inordinate amount of time on English language forums (cough, cough). VF doesn't have a proper website or any kind of FAQ, they do everything through retailers and a crappy Facebook page, so most consumers looking at a VF probably had no idea there were grounding issues in the first few batches, and doubly so for Chinese clone shops.
And the problem isn't really that well known, unless you spend an inordinate amount of time on English language forums (cough, cough). VF doesn't have a proper website or any kind of FAQ, they do everything through retailers and a crappy Facebook page, so most consumers looking at a VF probably had no idea there were grounding issues in the first few batches, and doubly so for Chinese clone shops.
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