Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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HDMontana

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I think I might order the 60 watt flask that fasttech just posted. Don't know why, I don't need it. I guess I'm just a sucker for shiny, new things. Still waiting for my black ipv4. I did notice that it didn't say that it had a spring loaded 510 pin. Says the 50 watt does, unless I just missed it.

HD
 

Croak

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@Croak , regarding the use of alcohol to clean out anodized threads and also clean up the sandpapered top-plate, I had been looking at getting some 99.9% pure Isopropyl Alcohol on eBay.

But then randomly today I found in a supermarket a bargain spray can of: "Detergent spray with acetone", and in the description it describes it removing "most greases, oils, resins, lubricating fluids, metal filings, super fine particles, fresh lacquers, paint residue from brushes" etc etc.

My googling suggests that Acetone is stronger and harsher than IPA, so I assume it would do the job of removing anodizing just fine. So my question is really whether it would be too harsh, and might cause any other problems? (Besides it requiring more safety precautions to use.)

I recommended alcohol because it won't harm the anodizing, but will still help in removing particles and lubricating your sanding medium, before evaporating without a trace. Acetone is a paint remover and the preferred surface prep before painting something, but won't have much more effect on the anodizing than alcohol or water. It can, however, wreak total havoc on plastic.

If you really want to strip the anodizing without a lot of elbow grease, foam-style oven cleaner works a treat, if you can contain it to just the threads. You'd want to mask the outside pretty good, and use it sparingly inside, with gloves in a well ventilated area, it's potent stuff, and I can't overstate the risk of damaging the exterior finish if you use it.

In the States, EZ-Off foaming aerosol is the go-to stuff for home stripping of anodizing (it also works a treat for getting melted shoe off of motorcycle exhaust pipes, and is great on BBQ grills and ovens too, go figure). In the UK, Mr. Muscle Oven Cleaner spray and Brillo Oven and Grill foam are basically the same stuff, and costs about 8 quid instead of 30 for imported EZ-Off.
 

Nibiru2012

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I have the 40 Watt Kangxin Flask V3. It works just fine and I get good vape quality and clouds with mine set to 30 watts in TC mode.
Please don't suffer any buyer remorse I believe you'll find that the MOD should fit your needs just fine!
 

TheBloke

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I recommended alcohol because it won't harm the anodizing, but will still help in removing particles and lubricating your sanding medium, before evaporating without a trace. Acetone is a paint remover and the preferred surface prep before painting something, but won't have much more effect on the anodizing than alcohol or water. It can, however, wreak total havoc on plastic.

If you really want to strip the anodizing without a lot of elbow grease, foam-style oven cleaner works a treat, if you can contain it to just the threads. You'd want to mask the outside pretty good, and use it sparingly inside, with gloves in a well ventilated area, it's potent stuff, and I can't overstate the risk of damaging the exterior finish if you use it.

Awesome, thanks very much for the detailed reply. I'll keep the Acetone spray for paint stripping then!

I've definitely got some foam oven cleaner so I'll investigate that - might well be Mr Muscle.

And I'm ordering 500ml IPA for general stuff. I'll start with a rub of that on the threads, and the sandpapering/cleaning of the mating surface of the top plate.

I misunderstood what you were saying re the threads: in earlier posts you said to rub out the threads with IPA, and then more recently talked about removing anodizing, so I thought it was the alcohol doing that. But I get now that the alcohol will just remove any general loose crud, without touching the anodizing, and that if I still need to go on and remove anodizing then for that I'll use the foam cleaner, and/or just hard scraping with craft knife or whatever.

Thanks!
 

Hammy75

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Well my defective Kangxin flask made it back to FTs RMA address in Miami so they have sent out the 50w Black to replace it. One of the guys on the FT forums ordered the 50w Silver but received the 60w. His initial impressions are spring loaded 510 works well, has the nickel purity setting and TP Works as it should. I don't think he's had it for a full day yet so all this taken with a grain of salt:).
 

TheBloke

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Well my defective Kangxin flask made it back to FTs RMA address in Miami so they have sent out the 50w Black to replace it. One of the guys on the FT forums ordered the 50w Silver but received the 60w. His initial impressions are spring loaded 510 works well, has the nickel purity setting and TP Works as it should. I don't think he's had it for a full day yet so all this taken with a grain of salt:).

Damn now you're getting my hopes up that I'l get a 60W too! :) Nah, 50W will be fine anyway. And that's all great to hear!

Glad your flask is getting sorted as well.
 
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TheBloke

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Bloke I think ours shipped the same day. Looks like the Canada vs UK Flask race is on:)

Ah ha! :) Do you know if yours went out ePacket?

My shipping record from China is thus far great - 9 days and 5 days with ePacket. I also bought a small packet of knurled brass nuts from China via eBay, ordered April 28th with an estimated delivery of May 18th - June 4th, and it showed up May 12th, after exactly 14 days. Given I only paid $5 in total for the product and delivery, and it must therefore have been the most economy of economy deliveries (besides an actual boat, I suppose), I was once again pleasantly surprised.

Of course, now I've gushed so much about China to UK, this one is going to take forever :) And my most recent experience of international is slightly more negative - a packet of cotton sent to me from the US sat in customs for five days.

But I suppose the fact that I can talk about five days in customs as being my 'bad' experience does say how lucky I've been :) Now I just have to hope I'm not jinxing it!

Do you recall how long it took you to get your first flask?
 
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Hammy75

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I did go with epacket as I usually do when ordering from China. My typical delivery time used to be 7-10 days once FT status switched to shipped. I say used to be as I just moved 2 provinces away and about a 14 hour drive. Usually stuff from China lands in Vancouver then would hit Mississauga Ontario then within a day I would have it. Now all bets are off as I am on the East Coast now. It's all an unknown but will be interesting. I think the biggest variable is the time in customs. Usually my stuff clears in a day or so but I have had them keep it for a week once. Either way I am glad it's on it's way and I will soon find out.

May the best Epacket (Customs dice roll) win...
 
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Phone Guy

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Man you guys have had really good shipping times from China... my good shipping times with ePacket have been about 2 weeks to the USA. I've had 1 sooner than that, and some longer than that... but g/t 2 weeks is a base average.

Not sure if I mentioned it here, I've got a 510 brass screw for another mod coming from the manufacturer, JUST A BRASS SCREW, that's been stuck in custom's since APRIL 4th! so close to 6 weeks. And I'm helpless until it clears. The post offer says all I can do is wait. It may clear tomorrow, it may take 6 months? I have no clue :(
 
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TheBloke

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Does anyone have the FT 40w or 50w yet?

My 50W shipped yesterday. I'm hoping I'll get it Tuesday, but Wednesday is probably more likely.

There's a 60W listed now too. Typically it was added just before mine shipped! I chose not to cancel and switch to that, as I don't think I'll care about the extra 10W all that much (I normally run my IPV4, which is max 60W, on a setting that tends to send no more than 50.) Besides I wanted it as quick as possible :)

At least one person we know of has received theirs, but he doesn't post here (that I know of.) He posted in the FT forums. And strangely enough, despite ordering 50W, he received a 60W. So I'm secretly hoping maybe I'll get 60 as well :)

I will of course report in lurid detail as soon as I get mine!
 
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Unior

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I keep debating which to order the Waidea or this FT. I don't have a temp. Control yet. I keep waiting to see how this FT is going to work mainly because it has spring loaded 510 & bigger screen. Plus this chip is made by sxk/ infinite Which is different than Waidea. I don't know if that is good or bad yet.
 

ThunderDan

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I keep debating which to order the Waidea or this FT. I don't have a temp. Control yet. I keep waiting to see how this FT is going to work mainly because it has spring loaded 510 & bigger screen. Plus this chip is made by sxk/ infinite Which is different than Waidea. I don't know if that is good or bad yet.

Hopefully the 50W/60W doesn't have the fire delay the board the Waidea uses has.
 

TheBloke

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I keep debating which to order the Waidea or this FT. I don't have a temp. Control yet. I keep waiting to see how this FT is going to work mainly because it has spring loaded 510 & bigger screen. Plus this chip is made by sxk/ infinite Which is different than Waidea. I don't know if that is good or bad yet.

Yup, you're not alone in those wonderings! Spring loaded 510 should definitely be a big plus, and the increased wattage should be helpful for most vapers - it certainly can't hurt. Ditto the lower resistance, and in fact that's one of the bigger plusses for me; right now I'm vaping a 0.07 coil in my IPV4 and I like that extra flexibility, which enables a lot more dual coil builds for example. My Aqua v2s are really designed for dual coil, but don't have the space for any dual coil build above 0.10 that I can think of.

The bigger screen is OK, but not anything I'm personally too bothered with. Ditto C temps, which might seem odd as I'm in the UK and I do all other temp measurements in C - but because all my vaping experience has thus far been in F, and I talk about it with more Americans than Europeans, I'm just sticking with F for now even though my IPV4 can do C as well. I've got a feel for 390 vs 420 vs 450 F etc, and can't be be bothered to re-learn the numbers for C, and doubly can't be bothered having to convert back and forth every time I discuss it with people :)

As for SXK vs Waidea, I don't know on that - but SXK are amongst the higher-rated factories out there. So the pedigree is good.

But the devil is always in the detail with these complex devices, and whereas we know the Waidea is now on revision 4 or 5 of the Kangxin line of chips - we've seen changes even throughout this thread, with newer deliveries/batches exhibiting slight changes to the earlier ones - this is presumably version 1 or at most 2 of the SXK/Infinite chip. So to a lesser or greater extent, new purchasers will be beta testing. It shouldn't happen, but it usually does with these new, cheap devices (and frankly, even with the expensive ones - looking at you, Evolv and Vapor Flask!)

That said, the SXK/Infinite chassis itself has been around for ages, so presumably is pretty solid - we would expect no ground issues, for example. Hopefully none with the 510 either, though the use of the spring loaded with TC has not been around for ages, so that's a possible doubt.

Hopefully the 50W/60W doesn't have the fire delay the board the Waidea uses has.

And that's a very good point, which I keep forgetting! I'm really, really hoping that this problem has not been replicated in the Infinite. And I feel there's a good chance it hasn't, because Infinite have gone back to the original DNA 40 to do their own clone. Hopefully they got it right where Waidea didn't quite. (And I'm now double checking that Geeco review to see if I can see evidence either way EDIT: I think it's fixed! See next post.)

Anyway, if you can hold out a few more days, then early-mid next week I can give you a full comparison between the Waidea and the 50W (or perhaps 60W) SXK Flask.

In the meantime, check out this video review of the Geeco 60W Zero clone. We know that it's using the same chip/board as the new flasks. I've not watched the whole review, but I skipped ahead to the pros/cons and the guy thinks it's very good. One of his main complaints was the non-spring-loaded pin, which won't apply to the Flasks. Another was the lack of a decent menu system, with so many complicated combinations of buttons, in and out of lock mode, to change stuff - but that applies to all the DNA 40 clones. Evolv cursed us with their terrible UI and the Chinese cloning crowd seem to feel compelled to replicate rather than revise it.



As one caveat to his review, he's not the most knowledgeable on TC in general ("I think maybe some TC mods only go up to 480? Some go up to 500°? But this goes up to 600°!" not sure I've ever heard of a real TC mod that only does 480° :) ) So he's perhaps not fully confirmed the finer details of operation.
 
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ThunderDan

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Yup, you're not alone in those wonderings! Spring loaded 510 should definitely be a big plus, and the increased wattage should be helpful for most vapers - it certainly can't hurt. Ditto the lower resistance, and in fact that's one of the bigger plusses for me; right now I'm vaping a 0.07 coil in my IPV4 and I like that extra flexibility, which enables a lot more dual coil builds for example. My Aqua v2s are really designed for dual coil, but don't have the space for any dual coil build above 0.10 that I can think of.

The bigger screen is OK, but not anything I'm personally too bothered with. Ditto C temps, which might seem odd as I'm in the UK and I do all other temp measurements in C - but because all my vaping experience has thus far been in F, and I talk about it with more Americans than Europeans, I'm just sticking with F for now even though my IPV4 can do C as well. I've got a feel for 390 vs 420 vs 450 F etc, and can't be be bothered to re-learn the numbers for C, and doubly can't be bothered having to convert back and forth every time I discuss it with people :)

As for SXK vs Waidea, I don't know on that - but SXK are amongst the higher-rated factories out there. So the pedigree is good.

But the devil is always in the detail with these complex devices, and whereas we know the Waidea is now on revision 4 or 5 of the Kangxin line of chips - we've seen changes even throughout this thread, with newer deliveries/batches exhibiting slight changes to the earlier ones - this is presumably version 1 or at most 2 of the SXK/Infinite chip. So to a lesser or greater extent, new purchasers will be beta testing. It shouldn't happen, but it usually does with these new, cheap devices (and frankly, even with the expensive ones - looking at you, Evolv and Vapor Flask!)

That said, the SXK/Infinite chassis itself has been around for ages, so presumably is pretty solid - we would expect no ground issues, for example. Hopefully none with the 510 either, though the use of the spring loaded with TC has not been around for ages, so that's a possible doubt.



And that's a very good point, which I keep forgetting! I'm really, really hoping that this problem has not been replicated in the Infinite. And I feel there's a good chance it hasn't, because Infinite have gone back to the original DNA 40 to do their own clone. Hopefully they got it right where Waidea didn't quite. (And I'm now double checking that Geeco review to see if I can see evidence either way EDIT: I think it's fixed! See next post.)

Anyway, if you can hold out a few more days, then early-mid next week I can give you a full comparison between the Waidea and the 50W (or perhaps 60W) SXK Flask.

In the meantime, check out this video review of the Geeco 60W Zero clone. We know that it's using the same chip/board as the new flasks. I've not watched the whole review, but I skipped ahead to the pros/cons and the guy thinks it's very good. One of his main complaints was the non-spring-loaded pin, which won't apply to the Flasks. Another was the lack of a decent menu system, with so many complicated combinations of buttons, in and out of lock mode, to change stuff - but that applies to all the DNA 40 clones. Evolv cursed us with their terrible UI and the Chinese cloning crowd seem to feel compelled to replicate rather than revise it.



As one caveat to his review, he's not the most knowledgeable on TC in general ("I think maybe some TC mods only go up to 480? Some go up to 500°? But this goes up to 600°!" not sure I've ever heard of a real TC mod that only does 480° :) ) So he's perhaps not fully confirmed the finer details of operation.


Heh, that guy isn't knowledgeable on anything. I haven't watched the review, but I've seen a couple of his in the past, how to say this nicely, infinite fanboy is the nicest thing that won't get censored.
 
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