Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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TheBloke

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Yup same chip! There's the new Flasks, the Geeco Zero clones, and the rDNA 40 clones.

What I want to know is when will Infinite, or anyone, do the honest thing - as Kangxin have done - and put out a new mod with this new chip, under their own brand. Have the courage of your convictions, Chinese cloners! :)
 
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ThunderDan

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Yup same chip! There's the new Flasks, the Geeco Zero clones, and the rDNA 40 clones.

What I want to know is when will Infinite, or anyone, do the honest thing - as Kangxin have done - and put out a new mod with this new chip, under their own brand. Have the courage of your convictions, Chinese cloners! :)
Kangxin's attempt was half-flasked. ;)
 

Phone Guy

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I ordered fdv v4, v4 short, v3 short, and v3 cores today. Hopefully Monday they'll get here. My dna40's should be here tomorrow. I have 1 fdv v3 not sure it's a shorty or regular. Had it for a while. So my upgrade fun should start this weekend.

Temp control sux. I'm not impressed. I've used ni200 and Ti wire. Still doesn't even compare to kanthal.

The "purity" thing will become a standard, I liked that the dicodes does it and now the Chinese chips have it, that will be a standard eventually even for the real players like Evolv and yihi. Just makes sense. Adjust and calibrate to your wire... And sooner or later there will be other wires for TC. vaping innovation is mind boggling. [emoji14]
 

TheBloke

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Temp control sux. I'm not impressed. I've used ni200 and Ti wire. Still doesn't even compare to kanthal.

Can you elaborate? (Or link me to where you did previously?)

So far I love it. But I don't have a great sense of taste, I struggle to get really nuanced flavour out of a lot of juices. So I could understand if the somewhat muted flavours I generally always get is for example masking differences in flavour in TC vs power-mode Kanthal that others might spot.

Ditto I've never been bothered about really hot vapes, just warmish is OK for me - another area where I've heard people say TC doesn't compare.
 
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dwcraig1

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For me I get good results with Ni200, I just happen to get better results with resistor wire. I see it as safer in the hands of inexperienced users and is going to have to be to sell the devices in the near future but I just don't think that I need it. I am interested in it and do experiment with it but my main squeezes have resistor wire.
 

Croak

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@TheBloke , "New Coil" is mostly for refinement. Chances are, this board doesn't have refinement. You can clearly see it's checking resistance in real time, knows where its at when you press fire(coil and internal temps), and knows where it's at while it's firing. When firing, it'll see the difference in resistance curves between non-nickel and nickel in very short order, and it probably clears whatever TC memory it retains when it detects an open circuit and starts from scratch every atty change. Might be better than Evolv's method (which is quite often spotty switching between temp control and wattage mode as well). Might be worse.

What it looks like to me is they took a good look at Evolv's source code(or ChiNA40 source code), and instead of just (mostly) copying Evolv outright like the Rayn boards, they saw the problems with refinement (that even Evolv has attempted to address with atty lock), and did away with it entirely. It doesn't rely on a fixed cold baseline, and that leads me to believe it's totally different code that recalcs the deltas on the fly and is actually crunching more numbers than an DNA40, which relies heavily on a baseline to compare against lookup tables. The purity setting is further indication of them thinking outside the box.

@dwcraig1 , when it's all working well, I get better results out of Ni200 builds than Kanthal. And I'm not a newb at building with Kanthal. The trick is getting it working well, and realizing that some atomizers just plain suck for Ni200 builds, even though they were excellent with Kanthal.
 

Phone Guy

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Can you elaborate? (Or link me to where you did previously?)

So far I love it. But I don't have a great sense of taste, I struggle to get really nuanced flavour out of a lot of juices. So I could understand if the somewhat muted flavours I generally always get is for example masking differences in flavour in TC vs power-mode Kanthal that others might spot.

Ditto I've never been bothered about really hot vapes, just warmish is OK for me - another area where I've heard people say TC doesn't compare.
I've been vocal about it in way too many threads to list LOL. but the basics are, I've got ni200 annealed in 28, 30 & 32g. I got some titanium grade 1 in 30g & 32g. I do not have the tempered nickel.

I've done several builds, primarily in my Taifun gt2 and squape Reloaded. Those are my 2 favorite attys ATM. have used them for a while with kanthal. In kanthal mode I am generally a 1.5ohm (ish) guy around 15w to 20w. That vape, to me, is warm to hot, full of flavor.

The TC builds I've done are producing lots of vapor, as much vapor as my kanthal builds, but the vapor is basically cold. No warmth or very little warmth. When I go too high on the temp setting I can taste the wire burning (at least I think that's what I'm tasting).

I have been unable to get the heat I want, and as a result the flavor I'm used to. Maybe I'm equating heat to flavor? Unfairly even? But that's what I want from my vape and I have been unsuccessful getting that from various TC builds.

I said this somewhere earlier, there is no way so many people that have switched to TC builds on various wires from kanthal and had the same experience as myself. So I obviously have a weak link somewhere. It's either my attys? My builds? Or my mods.

I've got some real dna40 chips coming in, and some fdv 510 connectors, so I will be able to eliminate the mod question soon.

I've been experimenting with other attys to eliminate the atty question.

My builds, well... That I can't comment on. I'm not a new vaper. I don't consider myself an expert or anything, but I've been vaping for a couple of years now. Building Coils from Protank's to gennys to kayfun's to drippers... Granted my Coils have almost always been compressed contact Coils.. My spaced Coils were Protank and genesis days (early days) so admittedly I'm re-learning the "art" of spaced Coils.

If I could get the same vape from a TC build that a 1.5ohm-1.6ohm kanthal coil delivers at 15w to 20w, I'd be ecstatic.
 

TheBloke

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the basics are, I've got ni200 annealed in 28, 30 & 32g. I got some titanium grade 1 in 30g & 32g. I do not have the tempered nickel.

The TC builds I've done are producing lots of vapor, as much vapor as my kanthal builds, but the vapor is basically cold. No warmth or very little warmth. When I go too high on the temp setting I can taste the wire burning (at least I think that's what I'm tasting).

I have been unable to get the heat I want, and as a result the flavor I'm used to. Maybe I'm equating heat to flavor?

Damn man, sorry :( I have heard others say the same thing, that they're not liking the TC experience because it's just not warm/hot enough.

I guess the most drastic suggestion would be to try not only another mod, but a Yihi instead of DNA 40. I would think that that would be the ultimate way of eliminating the mod question. The IPV4 is very affordable, and it will go up to 60W using a different algorithm to the DNA (clones).

But I'm sure after just buying those chips and FDs you might not want to buy yet another thing, especially if it's an unknown as to whether it'll be any better. And when I said I'd heard other people saying they didn't like TC because of lack of warmth, at least one was in the context of the IPV4. So it does seem to be a general aspect of the technology.

That said, I do regard my IPV4 as producing more heat than my Waidea. I just did another quick test: Lemo 2, single coil, twisted 28/30 Hard Finish Ni200, 0.15. Set to 400°F/40W on the Waidea and 400°F/50J on the IPV4. Definitely a bit warmer on the IPV4 - I could feel the vapour more, if you know what I mean; feel it touching the back of my throat. The Waidea wasn't cold, and I could detect it being a little warmer than background, but the IPV4 was definitely warmer than that. By no means hot, but there was a difference.

I suppose that's primarily down to the extra 20W available to the IPV4, but perhaps the algorithm also plays some part. The IPV4 always uses Pulse Width Modulation in TC mode - apparently that's a difference people can notice, but I'm not sure in what way (besides a possibly audible buzz.)

I'll be able to compare a bit better when my 50W (or if I'm lucky, 60W) Infinite Flask arrives. Then I'll be able to see DNA 40 style on at least 50W - which is where my IPV4 is around more often than not (I set the IPV4 to 40J more often than 50J.)

I might also have considered the Yihi SX Mini M because as well as the 60W TC, it also has its Powerful and Powerful+ modes that modify the strength of the vape in TC mode as well as normal. But I haven't used it personally and when I mentioned that possibility in another thread yesterday, @ThunderDan said he hadn't found it much use in TC mode, just in Power mode.

I really can't imagine it'd be your builds - even if you sucked totally, which I'm certain you don't, with all the experimenting you'd done you'd chance upon a better one sooner or later. Put another way, I have far less experience, and I'm sure less skill, and the result is it takes me far too long to make a build I feel happy with - but I do get there. If I can, I'm certain you do.

Do you ever use RDAs? I'd think that would be the best test bed - find an RDA known for hot vape, verify that in Power mode, then compare in TC. If you can't even get that hot enough for you, you'll know there's also no hope for tanks and other RDAs. I was going to say the Derringer or Freakshow Mini based on them being so small, but some Googling tells me they're not particularly hot - though the Freakshow at least is regarded as 'warm'. But there must be an RDA out there known to be particularly hot. And frankly any small RDA should surely be generally warmer than a tank.

Anyway, really hope you get it sorted. I know how disappointing it is to get all this stuff and then it not turn out like it does for everyone else - I have that battle regularly with regards to flavour. I've stopped watching juice reviews because it just depresses me hearing them talk about fourteen different 'flavour notes' where I'm like "I think it's strawberry? Oh ok, banana."
 
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HDMontana

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I can relate to your juice flavor comment. I DIY my own juice and have about 15 different flavorings. I only have one mix, that I enjoy, that uses 2 flavors. Other multi flavor mixes didn't turn out so well. Always find myself coming back to single flavor juices. Guess my flavor palet isn't that great.

HD
 
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TheBloke

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As for my flask, it appears to be following an identical trajectory to my last FastTech order:
Day 1: shipped; Day 2: Shenzen; Day 3: Leaving On A Jet Plane for LALA land.

So it should have landed in the UK sometime in the last hours. But because of the ridiculous policy of customs workers not to work over the weekend - damn them, I pay their wages, I want them to go ahead and come in this weekend! - Customs Day will hopefully be Monday for delivery, hopefully, Tuesday!

Hopefully :)
 

dwcraig1

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By-Ka XL clone on Waidea flask clone
 

Unior

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Couldnt wait any longer! I wanted the black 50w which was 'in stock' until a few hours ago at FT. The only one left 'in stock' was the 40w silver. Which should be plenty for me because I am pretty new to higher watts lower ohms. And of course temp control. There is 1 review now on 50w silver. Only complaint so far is tight battery fit.
 
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TheBloke

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Couldnt wait any longer! I wanted the black 50w which was 'in stock' until a few hours ago at FT. The only one left 'in stock' was the 40w silver. Which should be plenty for me because I am pretty new to higher watts lower ohms. And of course temp control. There is 1 review now on 50w silver. Only complaint so far is tight battery fit.

You ordered the 40W? :) Thanks man, it's nice to finally meet someone even more impatient than me :)

Keep an eye on those stock levels and on your order. If yours hasn't shipped when others come in stock, I would message them and ask to change it. 40W is fine, it's what we're all using right now. But 50 or 60W is better if you can get it - I do prefer TC on my IPV4 with 60W vs my Waidea at 40W.

So yeah you'll do fine with the 40w, but if you can get an easy chance to get the 50 or 60 instead you should.
 

dwcraig1

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I'd really like to get one of those 60 watter's from FT but cash is a bit tight. I'm entertaining the idea of offing my two Evolv boards and 510 shorty's to fund one. Trying to figure it slowly here. Maybe off one board and one socket and still have some options left.
BTW, I need nothing, I just want...... it doesn't ever seem to stop.
 

TheBloke

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I'd really like to get one of those 60 watter's from FT but cash is a bit tight. I'm entertaining the idea of offing my two Evolv boards and 510 shorty's to fund one. Trying to figure it slowly here. Maybe off one board and one socket and still have some options left.

I would! Do you really need all those Evolv boards? I mean you already have several installed, working DNA 40 devices don't you ? Plus a ChiDNA 40 or two? I'd definitely rather have a 60W Flask than yet more DNA 40 boards..! Especially given the whole flask is only a fraction more than one DNA 40 board + one FD!

BTW, I need nothing, I just want...... it doesn't ever seem to stop.

Damn straight!
 
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