Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[subby]

My Waida flask is starting to have performance drop off earlier and earlier it seems in the last few days, when I get below 50% battery it will not fire above approx 25-26w, seems to be all it can push. Would this be the grounding issue and if so, what is the best and easiest way to go about fixing it? I have seen a few suggestions, just do not know which way to go.

 

[dwcraig1]

If you haven't done one on one of these flask before, let me give you a little tip.
Remove the onboard buttons right off the bat. You're not going to need them and they are going to get in the way.
The first one I did I removed the fire button but left the up and down buttons, on power up it immediately ramped down to 1 watt.
Once I sink wrapped everything one of the wires was pressing on the down button, space is a premium in there so just go ahead and pop the top of the buttons off DO NOT completely remove the entire fire button just gut it there is a trace path that passes threw the fire button, if you remove the entire button assembly you will loose the trace and the board WILL NOT work.

Not to dispute what is probably good advice but on the first one I put in my Kx flask I completely removed the fire button and it worked fine till I stuffed it in the case and broke off the screen. The second one I left it intact, I felt there was enough room since not using the parallel board but broke off that screen too. On the third, the one I'm using, I completely removed the fire button. Still I feel it's good advice though to just gut them.
I haven't had a day off in more than nine years, sometimes I can hardly find the time to make a coil and a bottle of juice.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

First off let me say greetings to all. Super stoked to be able to post here. I've been following this thread for a couple months now and it has been amazing. I know the new hotness is the new fasttech flasks, so forgive me but I
would be grateful for any help with the placement of the second ground from the DNA 40 board for my Waidea flask. One for the atty ground and the other for battery neg. Where and what can I attach it to? I'm guessing I'm gonna need silver epoxy. Do I even need that secondary ground? Dna 40 from protovapor should be here weds. I want to have all my ducks in a row. Thanks guys. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[kteto]

I occasionally use Ni200

don't mind asking you the setup of your TF 2..i been building NI200 2mm 26g or 28g single space coil 0.12ohm but somehow the flavour still way off..any good tips??

 

[dwcraig1]

don't mind asking you the setup of your TF 2..i been building NI200 2mm 26g or 28g single space coil 0.12ohm but somehow the flavour still way off..any good tips??

Not much I can tell you really, the last one I did is 2.5 mm id, 9.5 wraps of 28 gauge nickel. It is really closely spaced, probably looks like a contact coil as they are that close.
Keep in mind that the wick slots on mine are 3.2 mm wide also. You can still use a wide wick with the stock sleeve, just leave it thick up to the slots and thin the part where it come the the slots.
Every (almost) aspect of it is like the way I do my Nichrome coils. It has one more wrap and is just a tad spaced but other than that it's the same. Good flavor.

 

[TheBloke]

Despite my hubris, I seem to have got away without offending the Gods of Customs. My 50/60W Flask appeared on Royal Mail's tracking at 08:58 this morning, and should therefore be well on track for delivery tomorrow.

As long as I didn't instead offend the Gods of Postage, I suppose!

 

[kteto]

Not much I can tell you really, the last one I did is 2.5 mm id, 9.5 wraps of 28 gauge nickel. It is really closely spaced, probably looks like a contact coil as they are that close.
Keep in mind that the wick slots on mine are 3.2 mm wide also. You can still use a wide wick with the stock sleeve, just leave it thick up to the slots and thin the part where it come the the slots.
Every (almost) aspect of it is like the way I do my Nichrome coils. It has one more wrap and is just a tad spaced but other than that it's the same. Good flavor.

Thank mate..im using the same setup for kanthal wire and the flavour is outstanding..my next build will coil id 3mm and closed contact coil..

 

[diceman1000]

My Waidea VF V3 will be here today... Is there a picture tutorial anywhere for the ground fix? I won't worry about it until it's really necessary, but it would be nice to have a link book marked...

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[TheBloke]

My Waidea VF V3 will be here today... Is there a picture tutorial anywhere for the ground fix? I won't worry about it until it's really necessary, but it would be nice to have a link book marked...

Sent from my LGUS990 using Tapatalk

WeirdWillie's detailed guide at this post.

Edit to add: that's a full guide to actually replacing the whole 510, which is more than you need. But it also shows you how to access the ground to do a proper solder job etc.

If you want quicker steps than actually soldering a ground, the simplest step to take is to remove your top plate then re-screw it down as tight as possible. Further than that is to also sandpaper the underside of the top plate and the "mating surface" of the top of the flask (ie where the two touch) then clean them with alcohol.

Also clean all the battery threads thoroughly with alcohol, and optionally clean out anodized gunk with a sharp knife (and swab out with alcohol).

Further details on all that:

Yeah, first step is to see if all four screws on top are tight. Second step is to take out the batteries, then remove all four screws on top, and carefully clean the underside of the top plate where it mates with the main body (mild abrasive pad and alcohol is good for this), and make sure the ground cable looped around the 510 is making good contact (a quick fix is to poke it in with a flatblade screwdriver). While in there, be careful around the ribbon cable for the display, it can be easily broken and the ground wire runs right by it. Once it's cleaned and you've done the best you can on the 510, screw it back together, making sure the screws are nice and tight (use a good tool to avoid camming out the head of the screws).

Optionally, you can run a bead of solder between the 510 cable and the brass nut to ensure a better connection, but I'd hold off on that, as that will for sure void your warranty as it's easy to spot, just taking the top off and cleaning things is not.

Before putting the batteries back in, clean the contact side of the battery cap, and the threads on both the battery caps and inside the flask as best you can (once again isopropyl alcohol is handy for this, as is an abrasive plastic pad). Use a paper towel to wipe up the alcohol, and keep at it until you stop seeing black on the towel.

Put the batteries back in, cross your fingers, and hit the fire switch.

 

[WeirdWillie]

First off let me say greetings to all. Super stoked to be able to post here. I've been following this thread for a couple months now and it has been amazing. I know the new hotness is the new fasttech flasks, so forgive me but I
would be grateful for any help with the placement of the second ground from the DNA 40 board for my Waidea flask. One for the atty ground and the other for battery neg. Where and what can I attach it to? I'm guessing I'm gonna need silver epoxy. Do I even need that secondary ground? Dna 40 from protovapor should be here weds. I want to have all my ducks in a row. Thanks guys. Any help would be appreciated.

The secondary ground may or may not necessarily be needed.
That being said, if you use AA-DUCT silver electrically conductive epoxy, you can epoxy and let it fully cure for 24 hours to any sanded, and prepped out of the way spot in the main body.
The last one I did I epoxied the wire inside the center tube side wall all the way to the bottom where the usb charger wires penetrate, other end solders to B-

 

[diceman1000]

Thank you so much The Bloke, much appreciated

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[nelsonm64]

anyone ever figure out why these waidea flasks wont drain the batteries evenly? I have a waidea with no usb charging and only one battery drains... if I put a single battery in it will work in either slot? that tells me both posts are connected, weird huh. any ideas?

 

[rks1949]

I received my (replacement Vapor Flask Clone for the seller on E Bay this morning! This one works perfectly! Have any of you made a ni200 28ga build for the Lemo V2 RTA? I'm really liking the TC feature on this with my RDA,and thought it might work well on the lemo also?

 

[dwcraig1]

anyone ever figure out why these waidea flasks wont drain the batteries evenly? I have a waidea with no usb charging and only one battery drains... if I put a single battery in it will work in either slot? that tells me both posts are connected, weird huh. any ideas?

Well just that the positive leads each have their own connection on the parallel charging board so maybe it has some control of it.

 

[nelsonm64]

Well just that the positive leads each have their own connection on the parallel charging board so maybe it has some control of it.

would mine even have a charging board? it doesn't have a USB charge port, it's the first version waidea released.

 

[TheBloke]

I think that having no charge port means it must be a Kangxin? Kangxin released a version without USB charge, then another with. I thought the first Waidea (at least the first with TC) had a charge port?

What logo/branding does the screen show when you first turn it on - or wake it from sleep?

 

[nelsonm64]

I think that having no charge port means it must be a Kangxin? Kangxin released a version without USB charge, then another with. I thought the first Waidea (at least the first with TC) had a charge port?

What logo/branding does the screen show when you first turn it on - or wake it from sleep?

duhhh. your're totally correct! it IS a kangxin. sorry for the confusion guys, not sure wtf I was thinking there...

 

[diceman1000]

Well, for my Waidea Flask today... It hits temperature protection almost instantly and the ohms jump all over the place... I am not pleased... Is this a ground issue? Should I just send it back for a replacement? So very disappointed

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[TheBloke]

Well, for my Waidea Flask today... It hits temperature protection almost instantly and the ohms jump all over the place... I am not pleased... Is this a ground issue? Should I just send it back for a replacement? So very disappointed

Sorry man, I had similar day 1 disappointment

No, that doesn't sound like ground issues. It sounds like 510 issues. Firstly, what range of tanks/RDAs have you used? If you've only tried a couple, try more. Remember there's no spring loaded pin, so you might have to tighten down a bit harder than you're used to. If you have attys that have an adjustable 510 pin, try adjusting them out a bit so there's more for the VF 510 to connect with.

Is this your first TC mod or do you have others?

List all the attys you've tried - some are known to work poorly or not at all with TC (until fixes are made), eg the Lemo 1, the Kanger Subtank Mini (sometimes), the Kayfun 4 I believe (unless a special upgraded pin is used), etc.

 

[diceman1000]

I'm using the Subtank Mini with a nickel OCC head...

And yes, this is my first TC mod...

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