Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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HolmanGT

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I'm sorry, I have trouble explaining things sometimes. I meant the post with the air holes in it from the factory. I drilled nothing. Here are some pics. Can you see the solder on the tip?View attachment 460938 View attachment 460940

I probably read it wrong... I went back and unless you changed it, it read as I would expect. Thanks for the pictures. By the way did that post just pull out?

That is the only thing that has bothered me about the Lemo and the Lemo 2 it the connection between the 510 pin and the inner post. I can solve it on the Lemo but have not found an easy way to do it on the Lemo 2.
 
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dwcraig1

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I just checked my mail box, Ya I know it's Sunday, and guess what was in there?! Evolv hooked me the F**K UP! Even after I told them it was my fault they still sent me a brandy new board and quick! Like a less than a week waiting. Thank you Evovl. Anyway here goes round two with the silver Waidea flask. Wish me luck.View attachment 460941
I didn't notice at first that the ones Evolv sent back to me had the mounting rails already removed. I'm not sure if that was because that's how mine were when I sent them or what.
 
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V_lestat

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Tpat591

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Got lucky there. Flasks are getting harder to get due to being pulled from FT, FC, & others. Jumped on a Waidea at 3F and it appears I got the last one. As soon as I ordered, the page for it showed no longer in stock. If you want one better think about pulling the trigger pretty quick.

Just wanted to note from the photo above that I'm not the only Taifun lover.
Waidea Flasks are still on the Focal website for $64.95 shipping from China. They are only out of stock in USA warehouse. Search for them using keyword "VF V3".
 
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Tpat591

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Kangxin Vapor Flask V3 Style Kx - 40d Chip 40W Variable Wattage APV Box Mod-53.44 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

That's the one I got. Not sure what chip it is but as far as I can tell they did one helluva job cloning the actual dna40.
I see everyone talking about these other flasks and not providing a single link to anything so figured I would share since its in stock.
$9 expedited shipping and I got it in about a week.
Here is your link search Result:Vf v3 in focalecig. The other day Focal was dumping those Kangxins for like $39.75ea shipped in the clearance section
 
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AtmizrOpin

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I didn't notice at first that the ones Evolv sent back to me had the mounting rails already removed. I'm not sure if that was because that's how mine were when I sent them or what.
LOL mine too! I sent mine in with no rails and got one back the same way, however this board looked 10 times cleaner than the one I ordered from Protovapor. Here's a finished pic. She vapes awesome. That's my scrappy cell phone camera messing up the dna screen. IMG_20150531_223728-1.jpg
 

AtmizrOpin

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I probably read it wrong... I went back and unless you changed it, it read as I would expect. Thanks for the pictures. By the way did that post just pull out?

That is the only thing that has bothered me about the Lemo and the Lemo 2 it the connection between the 510 pin and the inner post. I can solve it on the Lemo but have not found an easy way to do it on the Lemo 2.
Yes it just pulls out from that rubber white rubber grommet. Then just put a lil solder blob on the end that touches the post that sticks out the bottom that has the tank attached to it. Screw the base back onto the tank (you'll notice that pin begin to protrude out the bottom of the 510 a lil more than it did stock because of the solder you added) and tap it down a lil with something heavy to "seat" that soft blob of solder into the that tank post. Done.
 

Spidey2011

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I got my VF 60W yesterday and spent all evening building on my Goliath that also came yesterday! I don't see where I will ever be near 60w. It works extremely well and the highest I have gone is 30w keeping temp protect off the screen. There is a learning curve and 30g nickel is the biggest pain in the ***!

Best way I have found to work with it is to twist it with 30g Kanthal. I did up a 6/7 coil on my coilmaster and it worked and fit the build deck perfectly. No leaking even with the other air hole uncovered and open. Coil came in at .10 ohms on a 3mm mandrel. Wicked with Rayon.

The Goliath is performing excellent and is definitely my tank of choice out of my RTA's. I still can't seem to get the flavor that my RDA's have though. Same juice but the tanks just have a different flavor.

I have a Zero 60w coming and every mod will have it's own tank, I'm OCD like that. A singel battery may be an issue as I have a hard time putting the VF down!

As for a review, @TheBloke did a much better job than I could. I got it in silver after seeing his review and fit and finish was very good. Buttons are clicky and screen is easy to work with. Directions sucked but I expected that as well.

Sorry to see them gone. Hopefully we can get the board and retrofit a Waieda to be the same.

Thank you all for all the information and reviews. It is a community like this that has kept me off analogs this long and even in most situations where I would have bummed a smoke off of someone I have not had an issue turning the other cheek.

Happily vaping away on TC,
Sean
I twist 2 strands of 32ga nickel and do 6 wraps on one of my smaller screwdrivers. Comes out to .14 ohms, usually. Set at 32 watts with 420 degree temp protection and love it.
 

HolmanGT

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Yes it just pulls out from that rubber white rubber grommet. Then just put a lil solder blob on the end that touches the post that sticks out the bottom that has the tank attached to it. Screw the base back onto the tank (you'll notice that pin begin to protrude out the bottom of the 510 a lil more than it did stock because of the solder you added) and tap it down a lil with something heavy to "seat" that soft blob of solder into the that tank post. Done.

AtmizrOpin,
Thanks for the tips. I know what I'll be doing first thing in the morning. :toast:
 
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seanol

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I twist 2 strands of 32ga nickel and do 6 wraps on one of my smaller screwdrivers. Comes out to .14 ohms, usually. Set at 32 watts with 420 degree temp protection and love it.

I tried a 1.5mm coil and just couldn't get it right. Wicking was poor and while it vaped, I thought I could do better. I made up some twisted 30g Nickel/Kanthal and on a 3mm mandrel I go the wick right and it was easy to work with on the small build deck.

I built a semicontact coil for my subtank and the juice I was using came alive! I think with the combo wire a contact coil is not really possible as the twists don't line up. Either way it vapes fine, no burning, and the coil has no black spots after half a tank.

I could never get the RBA deck to wick right on my Subtank. Tried every method and still got dry hits. Now all I get is vapor. TC definitely saved this tank from oblivion.

As to your issue with resistance jumping, I have not seen that other than when I had a leg partially cut through. When I went to straighten the coil I found it as it broke immediately.

Good luck and try twisting with Kanthal, makes it much easier to work with coil wise.

Sean
 

AtmizrOpin

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So I was just using it and noticed the temo jumping quite a bit. It would fire and then read 430 and shut off completely, then fire again. Like it was firing in bursts. Checked and the coil is all good, not touching anywhere.
Shut off as in screen goes dark then turns back on? What is your set temp, your wattage, batteries charged, type of batteries, type of tank etc? This is just a guess but from what little you posted it sound like power from the batteries aren't getting a solid connection to the board somewhere or you're not holding the fire button down hard enough. Who knows, more info is needed.
 

Spidey2011

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Shut off as in screen goes dark then turns back on? What is your set temp, your wattage, batteries charged, type of batteries, type of tank etc? This is just a guess but from what little you posted it sound like power from the batteries aren't getting a solid connection to the board somewhere or you're not holding the fire button down hard enough. Who knows, more info is needed.
No, screen stays on. It just stops firing. Wattage drops to zero for a second until the temp drops. Set at 420 degrees, 34 watts, fresh purple efest batteries, kanger subtank with a .14 twisted 32ga coil.

I'll inspect the coil for a broken leg when I get home, but I don't think that's gonna be the problem. Didn't see it when I opened the tank earlier.
 

AtmizrOpin

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No, screen stays on. It just stops firing. Wattage drops to zero for a second until the temp drops. Set at 420 degrees, 34 watts, fresh purple efest batteries, kanger subtank with a .14 twisted 32ga coil.

I'll inspect the coil for a broken leg when I get home, but I don't think that's gonna be the problem. Didn't see it when I opened the tank earlier.
Could be a loose connection somewhere in the rba, loose rba. So you're taking a vape, you hit your temp limit(420) and the wattage drops to zero? Then wattage ramps back up to 34, or close to 34 when the coil temp reading drops below your set temp limit? Has it displayed or have you seen the screen display "temperature protection" when it reaches 420°? Does it stop firing like that in regular wattage/kanthal mode? Since I do not own an Infinite/SXK flask it's extremely hard to help resolve this issue without having the mod in front of me. I'm sure if I can't figure it out someone else in this thread can. Some very knowledgeable people here.
 

Spidey2011

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Could be a loose connection somewhere in the rba, loose rba. So you're taking a vape, you hit your temp limit(420) and the wattage drops to zero? Then wattage ramps back up to 34, or close to 34 when the coil temp reading drops below your set temp limit? Has it displayed or have you seen the screen display "temperature protection" when it reaches 420°? Does it stop firing like that in regular wattage/kanthal mode? Since I do not own an Infinite/SXK flask it's extremely hard to help resolve this issue without having the mod in front of me. I'm sure if I can't figure it out someone else in this thread can. Some very knowledgeable people here.

It'll actually read 430 when the wattage drops. And yep, it ramps right back up. It's also a kangxin, not an infinite. Was gonna try my billow on it to see how it does with kanthal, but I'd need to adjust the 510 pin and I don't have a screwdriver by the bed. Lmao. But when I screwed my subtank back on, it started reading at .24 and then dropped to .19. It was a .14 when I built it...... just about has to be a coil problem, right?
 

AtmizrOpin

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It'll actually read 430 when the wattage drops. And yep, it ramps right back up. It's also a kangxin, not an infinite. Was gonna try my billow on it to see how it does with kanthal, but I'd need to adjust the 510 pin and I don't have a screwdriver by the bed. Lmao. But when I screwed my subtank back on, it started reading at .24 and then dropped to .19. It was a .14 when I built it...... just about has to be a coil problem, right?
Could be a coil problem. Just know that before screwing on your atty built with ni200, make sure it is room temperature. Nickel changes its resistance with temperature increases and decreases. Ex. don't unscrew a hot nickel atty then immediately screw back onto the mod. Your ohms will be inaccurate. Now that I know it's a Kangxin with the Rayn V3 board I think I can help. I'm pretty sure it will never display the " temperature protection" message because they removed it via firmware update. It is 100% normal for the wattage to drop down, sometimes drastically, depending on how hard your drawing air across the coil when you inhale. It does this so you don't go over your set temp limit. Try lowering your wattage.
 
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