Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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Yes it looks like it to me. Same exact description & price as Waidea. I kinda like the top being silver on top.
Just what difference it's makes I'm not sure but this doesn't look like my screen.
Yeah and it says "same specification as 2806" which points to the black Waidea I bought.
Ahh, memories - the excitement of my first TC, my first flask.
Now it sits in the corner, staring at me poignantly; "I can still make you happy!" it says. But I do not listen. I just do not.
There, there, little Waidea. It'll be OK. Soon i will rip out your heart and put in a better one.
No indeed! Where did you find that?
To be honest that looks like a mock-up to me, it's not the font I've seen on any dna 40 (clone) ever. They did replicate the right-alignment of the temperature and ohms, but no real mod can ever display 000F.
I think it's a Photoshop, perhaps from before they had the actual screen working?
That's exactly what I was planning on doing once my black Kaingxin arrives.
I have a spraycan with chrome paint (really looks more like chrome than the regular silver paint everyone knows) and I'm going to take off the top part and spray paint it.
Wish they would've made a real chrome top for it in the factory. That's how real flasks look.
Like FT Sku 2135201
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Oh yeah! I was on there just the other day, but I didn't zoom in on the photo.
How strange. All the other photos match the real unit - why use this wacko mock-up?
It has to be a mock-up - it's not even straight, the 50W is higher than the rest and slanted compared to the rest. In fact it's slanted compared to itself, the W is ever so slightly higher than the 50.
They must have done it months ago and not bothered to replace the photos on their own FB with their real photo they send to vendors
Or just used the wrong one by mistake.
Or the display was just mounted crooked. Looks like the top is slanted as well.
That chrome paint tends to be decorative so I wouldn't use it, it's less durable than car paint which is very easily damaged.
hey guys and gals,
so my SXK flask is straight up sucking. each time i think i fixed the problem and i do not. there is something strange going on with my Black 60W unit. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. i will be submitting this as ticket to FT as well but i have read on the FT website that they want you to get it looked at locally first.
i am continuing to have battery issues. as i screw in a battery, the screen will turn off and on repeatedly. If i screw the battery cap in all the way the power cuts off. There is a very small window that seems to work when screwing in the battery caps. that window does not seem to stay the same either, it will work for a minute and then quit.i can not screw both batteries in and know that i am getting good connections on both because once one is in i am never sure if the other is connecting properly. I am really at a loss here. it really does not make sense to me.
other thing noticed while trying to get this to work.
*Using a Ni coil the ohms are different at different points as the cap is turn in. some time temp control is working and sometimes it is not. I have had it pass the dry cotton test and have had it fail.
*As i screw the battery cap in the screen will come on and off intermittently, if i try firing (anthill or Ni) it will ask if it is a new coil. i click up for yes and the screen cuts out.
*it appears to me the top positive connection is not exactly centered on mine they also seem to be a little angled. This could be my imagination because i have just been staring at the $60 paper weight for the past few hours
this really sucks, could this be a problem like some others have had where the black VF are just not grounding right at the top plate?
any advice or ideas? @TheBloke
thanks
so my SXK flask is straight up sucking. each time i think i fixed the problem and i do not. there is something strange going on with my Black 60W unit. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. i will be submitting this as ticket to FT as well but i have read on the FT website that they want you to get it looked at locally first.
i am continuing to have battery issues. as i screw in a battery, the screen will turn off and on repeatedly. If i screw the battery cap in all the way the power cuts off. There is a very small window that seems to work when screwing in the battery caps. that window does not seem to stay the same either, it will work for a minute and then quit.i can not screw both batteries in and know that i am getting good connections on both because once one is in i am never sure if the other is connecting properly. I am really at a loss here. it really does not make sense to me.
other thing noticed while trying to get this to work.
*Using a Ni coil the ohms are different at different points as the cap is turn in. some time temp control is working and sometimes it is not. I have had it pass the dry cotton test and have had it fail.
*As i screw the battery cap in the screen will come on and off intermittently, if i try firing (anthill or Ni) it will ask if it is a new coil. i click up for yes and the screen cuts out.
*it appears to me the top positive connection is not exactly centered on mine they also seem to be a little angled. This could be my imagination because i have just been staring at the $60 paper weight for the past few hours
this really sucks, could this be a problem like some others have had where the black VF are just not grounding right at the top plate?
any advice or ideas? @TheBloke
thanks
Take your top plate off, lightly sand bottom of top plate where it mounts and firmly reinstall.
It is a bad electrical connection between chassis and top plate. When you tighten battery caps it pushes up on top plate forcing it away from chassis killing your ground connection to the board. SXK never installed a chassis ground to the chip/board.
It is a bad electrical connection between chassis and top plate. When you tighten battery caps it pushes up on top plate forcing it away from chassis killing your ground connection to the board. SXK never installed a chassis ground to the chip/board.
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check your bottom battery cap's threads and remove anodizing if there is any
Ok realized I never cam back with my impressions of my new Waidea unit to replace my failed kangxin. So far it's been working fine, other then one small issue every once and a while. I find sometimes it's firing above the set wattage for a short time till It gets above about 350° almost like it has a preheat. However I'm starting to get a little annoyed with my subtank mini, it's just not wicking fast enough with my very high vg liquid. I'm looking to replace it with one better suited for high vg, currently looking at 1) squape reloaded clone, 2)lemo 2, and 3) rose v2 clone. I would love to hear from some of you on your impressions on each with high vg. (I'm allergic to PG) If you have any other suggestions for tanks I would love to hear it.
If I have been following correctly there is no earth to the board and its relying on the earth feed to the 510
As mentioned above but I think you have already sanded the top plate and case mating surface
Only other thing I can think of is the 510 to top plate surface area may be partially insulated with paint
Undoing the 510 locking nut can you get to the mating surface and clean it up
My Lemo 2 works better now that I have filed two "U" shaped notches on each side where they line up with juice holes on deck. Before it would be dry hit after dry hit with anything over 50/50. She hits hard now and keeps up with all my max vg juices. However I would not recommend this tank for max vg in stock condition. I hear the aqua, and rose are great out of the box for higher vg juices. My Goblin loves to drink max vg juices. I recommend that
Hello all thank you for the help thus far.
a few quick clarifications to hopefully better explain the situation.
When i first got the device i realized there were a few problems with the battery cap threads. i cleaned those up as best possible yesterday. the battery connection problem has been getting worse and worse though. is there an explanation as to why it would get worse and worse? I am willing to try sanding the top plate, actually headed to the hardware store now to get some fine grain sand paper and steal wool. should i sand both the top plate and the case around the screws?
as for the 510 base plate here is a picture it appears to be a clean open area for the connection, please correct me if i am wrong.
thank you all again
yeah it looks clean where the earth plate sits, just unless there is a separate earth to the board which a previous post led me to believe not
Then there needs to be clean metal all around the base plate and casing mating service
Looking at that though it does not appear as over spray but purposely painted
This would suggest there would be a separate earth supplying the board as the paint is obviously insulating any path from top plate to body
Can you see another black wire inside the case as an earth for the board running from the battery sled
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