Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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Although I have no reason to doubt @dwcraig1 has a SXK flask with no separate earth supply to the board
With the variations/versions that have been sold clarification on the flask in question would be wise
I have a batch of these on route & may need to do this fix prior to passing on to their new owners
Although I may opt to fit additional earth
Look forward to your reports of your findings and observations on whether establishing a second ground from chassis to board gnd terminal has any effect on the reported tendency of these units to read resistances on the low side and best place/method to establish the ground on the chassis.
Pics would be greatly appreciated by members attempting to follow in your footsteps in doing the same on their own.
Thank you for volunteering to investigate this further!
Pics would be greatly appreciated by members attempting to follow in your footsteps in doing the same on their own.
Thank you for volunteering to investigate this further!
This is the fifth problem I've heard from the latest batch of Black devices. @JAlexander 's are in a sense the most severe. Two further guys on the FT thread both had 0.00 / Low Res, and both have the black. One of those has already done the top plate/"mating surface" sand and it fixed it immediately, the other hasn't attempted yet. Then two other guys are having uneven battery draining, but that was the battery tube threads not the ground, and seem to be fine since they cleaned those out.
@JAlexander you should do the sanding whenever you can, it's really easy.
So far we know about:
If Allen @ SXK replies to my first email I will send him this list along with whatever other data I have by then. But so far, not so good - it was looking so good with Batch 1 but admittedly they were all silvers and silvers are less susceptible, though not immune as @dwcraig1 is finding.
Perhaps something went further wrong with batch2, or perhaps it's just that we didn't see any blacks and that was where the faults mostly lay. We still only have one reported silver fault in batch2 so it may be silvers are generally OK, or at least better.
@JAlexander you should do the sanding whenever you can, it's really easy.
So far we know about:
- batch 1, Silver x3: all fine (Mine, @Unior, UKV_Kenneth of FT forum - assumed as he reported it fine at least 4 days after getting it, and no further posts since)
- batch 2, Silver x1 : ground issues (@dwcraig1 )
- batch 2, Black x3 : ground issues (@JAlexander , sahe69 on FT forum (fixed by sanding) jayceebee on FT forum (fix not yet attempted) )
- batch 2, Black x2 : tube thread issues - uneven battery draining - no ground issues reported (Artvandelay and ChummyBoy on FT forum)
- batch 2, Black x1 : mod turns off when battery caps are screwed on more than half way - seemingly problem with the brass positive pin, first report, perhaps isolated
- batch 2, unknown : no issues (@Matty316 what flask do you have and can you confirm it's still working fine, besides the standard low resistance problem?)
If Allen @ SXK replies to my first email I will send him this list along with whatever other data I have by then. But so far, not so good - it was looking so good with Batch 1 but admittedly they were all silvers and silvers are less susceptible, though not immune as @dwcraig1 is finding.
Perhaps something went further wrong with batch2, or perhaps it's just that we didn't see any blacks and that was where the faults mostly lay. We still only have one reported silver fault in batch2 so it may be silvers are generally OK, or at least better.
no problems here with RBA section on ST mini with 80%VG. That is the v1 RBA with unmodified juice holes. Just works for me! If you want something 'cloudy' i imagine the lemo 2 would be the best bet but, as I said, the ST should work!
I got the Lemo 2 last week and has been on the Waidea flask since then. Just put it down today because my other atomizers were giving me the evil eye. I don't have that many tanks to compare, but this Lemo 2 just works! I built it with NI200 at 0.12 Ohms (six spaced wraps of 28 gauge around a 3mm mandrel with organic cotton wick) and I'm vaping it at between 22-27 watts and TP set at 480º F using a 70/30 VG/PG mix, and seeing how well it performs at that density, I would imagine it would also perform well with an 80/20 or even a max VG mix. It is juce-hungry. I can see bubbles rising after every puff, and I find myself refilling more often than with other tanks. Airflow is wide open; I have it set at about 50% and even then it provides a steady flow of warm and flavorful vapor directly to my lungs (more and denser vapor than some of my RDAs, incredible). On the Waidea, it leaves about a half millimeter gap between the base of the atty and the top plate of the flask, no big deal to me. Also, two days ago I went to the grocery store and had the flask/lemo2 in my shirt pocket, bent down to pick something and it fell atty-first on the floor. It hit hard, and I thought that it was damaged for sure, but after panicking for a little while, I pressed the fire button and it didn't miss a beat. Perhaps my favorite right now, followed closely by the Aqua V2. Hope this helps.
Ya I don't know why the ST MINI doesn't work for me but I find I need to set the airflow almost all the way closed to get it to wick for a 3-5sec hit, the I have to do a primer puff to get the wick saturated for the next drag. Otherwise it instantly hits TP at 460° with a 6 wrap twisted 32g coil at 3mm, .15ohms. I've read and watched tons of tutorials on wicking. I'm not covering the channels on the rba I'm keeping the cotton nice and loose on the tails, somewhat tight in the coil. I just don't think the juice channels are big enough for my chain vaping with large lung/throat drags. I also don't think it helps I have very large lungs. Think I just need to drill some holes in the side of the rba like I've seen some do and wait for the Goliath v2.
The underside of the top plate in
JAlexander's picture sure looks coated , can't get a ground with that on there.
(sorry, I'm not yelling, something goofy with my post)
JAlexander's picture sure looks coated , can't get a ground with that on there.
(sorry, I'm not yelling, something goofy with my post)
@TheBloke
So I am ArtVandelay from the FT thread. I was watching a lot of seifeild that night and could not come up with something clever
. Alexander just so happens to be my first initial and last name, again wasn't felling clever. I think you are right that i drew the short straw here.Here is a video of what the unit is doing
this was shot before sanding and was shortened so i could email it. i have sanded it and still the same issue. i feel it must be something with the positive pins at this point. i can get it to hit right now but don't know if it is only hitting off the one tube. The really strange part is that i really can't get it to work with only one tube, even if i find a sweet spot for a second (backing out the battery cap) it will cut out after a hit or two, unless i apply a good amount of pressure up and to the side. with both batteries in i can get it to hit and it is kind of working but agian its about finding sweet spot for each battery but this is all but impossible because the place each caps works constantly seems to change.
has anyone actually taken this apart fully? how would i do this?
@Quantum Mech have all the flask you purchased been spoken for? if not i would like to ask to purchase one from you
thanks again for the advice
@dwcraig1 sanding didn't seem to do anything. I think the ground in the top plate comes from the screws. the crew touches non coated metal, does a mod like this require much more ground than this? sorry still a newb to actually working on my mod
By design they may have it grounded just via the screws. That's 510 grounded to top plate, top plate grounded to screws, screws grounded to chassis.
I wonder why no one has made a 100-150 watt flask. Easy to do, you already have the dual 18650 tubes to turn it into a series circuit. Just need to make a board that'll fit. Would I buy it, no, but you'd reach a wider audience. I dunno, super board, nuttin on tv, wore myself out watching YouTube videos etc. Thoughtless typing seems to placate me for the moment. 
They will as soon as we buy all the 70's, 80's, 90's, ectI wonder why no one has made a 100-150 watt flask. Easy to do, you already have the dual 18650 tubes to turn it into a series circuit. Just need to make a board that'll fit. Would I buy it, no, but you'd reach a wider audience. I dunno, super board, nuttin on tv, wore myself out watching YouTube videos etc. Thoughtless typing seems to placate me for the moment.
I wonder why no one has made a 100-150 watt flask. Easy to do, you already have the dual 18650 tubes to turn it into a series circuit. Just need to make a board that'll fit. Would I buy it, no, but you'd reach a wider audience. I dunno, super board, nuttin on tv, wore myself out watching YouTube videos etc. Thoughtless typing seems to placate me for the moment.
Atmizr,
You would need to add a balanced charger and monitor circuit.
So are the black flasks selling 3 to one silver or is there something about the black coating that keeps it from groundindg well?
Or none of the above?
Or none of the above?
Ya add whatever you want. Add a 3 inch spike that shoots into your hand if you vape longer than 10 seconds. For safety of course.Atmizr,
You would need to add a balanced charger and monitor circuit.
the top plate mating surface where the 510 plate sits looks clean or is the white/silvery looking part in the picture not clean metal
as long as the screw threads are clean in the case and top plate where the screw heads fit there should be a good path for the earth
although with the battery sled in the case I cant see why its not earthed as well
You want to volunteer for something please do
With the board not having a separate earth from the battery sled
A poor earth circuit from the top plate to case is no different to a loose coil leg & will show high resistance
If the board when under load does not receive full power due to poor earth or live it would not work correctly & anyone with pcb experience would know to ignore the board until good connections have been confirmed
The inherent low readings on working devices is an inaccuracy that may be a fault in design or purposely so SXK can claim lower ohm firing than their board can take to keep pace with other boards
Firing a low ohm circuit increases the work a board has to do & creates heat, the board may not be up to it
Speculation is fine but that is all anyone is doing that does not have the device in the hand with the correct tools & knowledge to fault find
Maybe you could enlighten us with how you would fault find this the correct way ?
@TheBloke
So I am ArtVandelay from the FT thread. I was watching a lot of seifeild that night and could not come up with something clever
Here is a video of what the unit is doing
this was shot before sanding and was shortened so i could email it. i have sanded it and still the same issue. i feel it must be something with the positive pins at this point. i can get it to hit right now but don't know if it is only hitting off the one tube. The really strange part is that i really can't get it to work with only one tube, even if i find a sweet spot for a second (backing out the battery cap) it will cut out after a hit or two, unless i apply a good amount of pressure up and to the side. with both batteries in i can get it to hit and it is kind of working but agian its about finding sweet spot for each battery but this is all but impossible because the place each caps works constantly seems to change.
has anyone actually taken this apart fully? how would i do this?
@Quantum Mech have all the flask you purchased been spoken for? if not i would like to ask to purchase one from you
thanks again for the advice
Yeah seeing your video that must be something wrong with the battery sled
Once I have them in hand & all tested ok will let you know as should be a couple of VF & VS spare
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