Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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RainZG

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Yeah, you're correct. But add to that at least 1mm for the wire that has to be soldered on and you're left with 0.5mm clearance for it to move down which doesn't sound like it's enough. I don't know how RainZG did it but I'll be receiving one soon so let's just see if it fits. If I can't fit it in then I just use the 22mm washer and mount it on top of the unit like described in this topic.

I soldered wire horizontal and also sanded about 1mm from body, so body length is now ~6,5mm instead of 7,5mm
also sanded 0,5mm from positive pin. With that everything works and my atty's still sit flush

EDIT: You could also play a bit with positive pin on flask so you don't need to sand 510 body
 

Croak

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Here's a pretty good look at the new Vaporshark built Flask:



Notice that the positive battery contacts are totally different than what VF uses in their US-built models. It uses pins more like what Kangxin uses instead of the blade contacts the older VF (and Waidea) use. They may be spring-loaded

Big screen is nice, and I like the flush mount/screen protector, always had a problem with lint, dust, and juice on the recessed screen.

And, it's $200. With 2 amp zip charging.

But all that said, I'm holding out for the SX 350J version next month. Shame that unit still has 0.5 amp charging though. :(
 

AtmizrOpin

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Here's a pretty good look at the new Vaporshark built Flask:



Notice that the positive battery contacts are totally different than what VF uses in their US-built models. It uses pins more like what Kangxin uses instead of the blade contacts the older VF (and Waidea) use. They may be spring-loaded

Big screen is nice, and I like the flush mount/screen protector, always had a problem with lint, dust, and juice on the recessed screen.

And, it's $200. With 2 amp zip charging.

But all that said, I'm holding out for the SX 350J version next month. Shame that unit still has 0.5 amp charging though. :(

I woulda got this if I never ordered the Vaporshark dna and RDNA a couple months ago.
 

Tpat591

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AtmizrOpin

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I recall...have three of them...someplace. Building DNA200s now and loving 'em.
I hear ya, except for the DNA 200 part. Don't have one of them yet. I don't own a computer. And what's the point of owning a DNA 200 without a computer to tinker in escribe. Looking for a cheap laptop. Then comes the 200 shenanigans. I barely even use my Waidea that I converted to a real DNA 40. And forget about my bare stock Waidea. Well not completely stock, FDV V3 Short 510.
 

BlueridgeDog

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Agree! No computer = no joy for the 200 as it is really a geeky thing. However, the ability to set the pre-heat punch and the slope of ramp up and having 200 watts to do it, along with 8 profiles for various atomizers and wire types as well as hybrid wire types (Nickel and Ti, Ti and kanthal, Ti and stainless for example) is eye opening. It is internet aware and soon you will be able to download a profile for the wire you bought! Here is my sub $120 mod:

2015-07-24 15.49.09.jpg
 

yo han

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Unfortunately TheBloke ain't around lately but I have this question:
I was playing around with the NP setting tonight and wondered how we ever know what temperature we're actually vaping at?
Turn NP up and TC will kick in later, turn it down and it'll kick in sooner.
Turn Temp down and TC will kick in later, turn it up and it'll kick in sooner.
So if altering Temp and NP settings are having the same effect on TC, how do you know if the set temperature is the actual temperature at which point TC kicks in?
If I find my vape too cool I can up the NP or I can up the Temp.
If we could trust the Ohm readings of the SXK Flask it would be no problem and I wouldn't touch NP but unfortunately it's reading wrong so you kinda have to mess with it. You could say "does it matter what the temperature is? As long as you like it it's OK" Well yeah but I also know you shouldn't go above certain temperatures if you don't want to overheat PG/VG so I'd really like to keep it below that point.
 

AtmizrOpin

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Unfortunately TheBloke ain't around lately but I have this question:
I was playing around with the NP setting tonight and wondered how we ever know what temperature we're actually vaping at?
Turn NP up and TC will kick in later, turn it down and it'll kick in sooner.
Turn Temp down and TC will kick in later, turn it up and it'll kick in sooner.
So if altering Temp and NP settings are having the same effect on TC, how do you know if the set temperature is the actual temperature at which point TC kicks in?
If I find my vape too cool I can up the NP or I can up the Temp.
If we could trust the Ohm readings of the SXK Flask it would be no problem and I wouldn't touch NP but unfortunately it's reading wrong so you kinda have to mess with it. You could say "does it matter what the temperature is? As long as you like it it's OK" Well yeah but I also know you shouldn't go above certain temperatures if you don't want to overheat PG/VG so I'd really like to keep it below that point.
I was wondering the same thing. I have an SXK Nebula with the updated firmware. The only thing I can think of doing is to build a nickel or Ti coil and set a temp, say 420° F and put a temperature probe from a multimeter, or something else that will read the coil temp, in the I D of the coil and either turning up or down the NP setting till you're hovering around your set temp for that particular coil material, then remember that NP value for that specific coil material. Whatcha think?
 

dwcraig1

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I was wondering the same thing. I have an SXK Nebula with the updated firmware. The only thing I can think of doing is to build a nickel or Ti coil and set a temp, say 420° F and put a temperature probe from a multimeter, or something else that will read the coil temp, in the I D of the coil and either turning up or down the NP setting till you're hovering around your set temp for that particular coil material, then remember that NP value for that specific coil material. Whatcha think?
You might try dry cotton and see what setting that it starts to burn.
 

Flt Simulation

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After reading the majority of these posts concerning the various 'Vapor Flask' style clones, I have decided that the best of the bunch (as far as clones go), would be the SXK 60 watt Vapor Flask clone.

Seems the best price for delivery to the US would be from FocaleCig ($69.82 with free shipping) for the silver colored unit.
$66.89-$69.82 SXK Vapor Flask Style 60W Box Mod With Temperature Protected - Silver

Does anyone here have an idea as to what exact Chinese chipset is installed in this unit? .... SX something?

Thanks,
Ron
 

AtmizrOpin

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After reading the majority of these posts concerning the various 'Vapor Flask' style clones, I have decided that the best of the bunch (as far as clones go), would be the SXK 60 watt Vapor Flask clone.

Seems the best price for delivery to the US would be from FocaleCig ($69.82 with free shipping) for the silver colored unit.
$66.89-$69.82 SXK Vapor Flask Style 60W Box Mod With Temperature Protected - Silver

Does anyone here have an idea as to what exact Chinese chipset is installed in this unit? .... SX something?

Thanks,
Ron
SXK say it's their own chip, but they all claim to have proprietary chipsets. Make sure, or at try to get a flask with the latest firmware update for the resistance issue.
 
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Daisychainvaper

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Already posted in your other thread but: A friend of mine was in heavy contact with Focalecig and he confirmed that the latest batch has also the lastest firmware with the fixed resistance issue. They finally decided not to have a low-voltage warning too, instead the mod lowers the watts when the batter drains <3.5V.

Thats what he said and that is what I can confirm from my sxk nebula. I thought the missing low battery warning is an error, after reading a bit and testing the lowering wattage thing, I like it!
 
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