Mine also throttles the wattage when low on battery but it still has the too low Ohm reading. Ordered a couple of weeks ago from Focal. So if the resistance issue has been fixed it has happened very, very recently.
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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Man, I ordered too soon
I really think the low Ohm reading sucks!
really? I found it consistently reading exactly 20% too low. So you can handle that perfectly via the nickel purity menu what I read. So set it to 65 instead of 70 or 30 instead of 35 and it should work fine. In VW mode you have to set the Watts 20% higher.
But yes, it IS annoying because you know it and you see it, so I can understand that
I think you got that the wrong way round.
In TC mode, if it's reading too low you have to turn the NP setting up
Well yes, it's working. But like I said in one of my previous posts, this is guessing and you can't trust your temperature reading anymore.
In TC mode, if it's reading too low you have to turn the NP setting up
Well yes, it's working. But like I said in one of my previous posts, this is guessing and you can't trust your temperature reading anymore.
Why vape numbers?
I make a dry cotton test, set the temperature to 430F, increase the NP till the cotton gets brown, done. Then I search for the sweet spot. Set the temperature value to 450F - still save - and decrease the temperature to find the best flavor.
Havent really used my SXK 50 watt much as I have been moving. Threw in a couple batteries and am getting the weak battery message. Tightened up the top screws and it worked for an afternoon then back to the warning. Anybody have pics of how they sanded the top plate? I want to be sure the enclosure is good to go before ordering a DNS40 board for it. Also if anybody has a link to The Blokes spread sheet to get around the low resistance reading or another method to get TC to work right. If I can get the TC working properly it will hopefully hold me over until I have time for the transplant
The SXK flasks seem to have more of a problem with anodized coating on the threads of the case where the battery caps screw in, particularly with the black ones so be sure to be looking at that also.
Still having problems with my black VF.
1. Mod just suddenly cuts out and goes dark. Removing and re-inserting the batteries seems to resolve this.
2. Mod refuses to recognize a kanthal build. Even switching TC off does not resolve this. Mod reboot resolves this.
3. In kanthal mode it refuses to go above 44 watts. I can set the wattage higher, but when I fire it the value jumps down to 44 watts, sometimes less.
I've cleaned the battery cap threads as best as I could, but I haven't sanded the top plate yet. I haven't even used it in TC mode yet as with all the problems with kanthal, I haven't seen the point.
When I factor in the inaccurate resistance reading, I'm beggining to think I may have wasted my money on this mod.
1. Mod just suddenly cuts out and goes dark. Removing and re-inserting the batteries seems to resolve this.
2. Mod refuses to recognize a kanthal build. Even switching TC off does not resolve this. Mod reboot resolves this.
3. In kanthal mode it refuses to go above 44 watts. I can set the wattage higher, but when I fire it the value jumps down to 44 watts, sometimes less.
I've cleaned the battery cap threads as best as I could, but I haven't sanded the top plate yet. I haven't even used it in TC mode yet as with all the problems with kanthal, I haven't seen the point.
When I factor in the inaccurate resistance reading, I'm beggining to think I may have wasted my money on this mod.
^^^^ depending on the resistance of your coil you my be hitting the 16 amp limit.
coil would have to be below 0.2Ω in kanthal mode so probably not .
coil would have to be below 0.2Ω in kanthal mode so probably not .
0.29 ohms. I know that with a clone there may be some slight tweaking required, but this mod is shaping up to be bloody useless.
Pfff, so it IS possible but it was a drag! Had to shorten the FDV v3 quite a bit and then ran into trouble because the Kangxin doesn't have battery springs but instead just pushes up the plastic at the top giving even less space above the positive battery connector.
Looks great but I wouldn't go through all the trouble a second time. My advice: if you want a decent 510 on your Kangxin then use the 22mm FDV v3 washer and mount it on top of the Flask.
Looks great but I wouldn't go through all the trouble a second time. My advice: if you want a decent 510 on your Kangxin then use the 22mm FDV v3 washer and mount it on top of the Flask.
I don't suppose you kept a photographic record of the process did you? He says knowing it aint so...
Nope, sorry.
The thing came in the mail and I hadn't planned it really. Just opened up the Kangxin to see what needed to be done and before I knew I was up to my ears in DIY with lots of cursing involved.
The thing came in the mail and I hadn't planned it really. Just opened up the Kangxin to see what needed to be done and before I knew I was up to my ears in DIY with lots of cursing involved.
If you could be bothered to write a description of the process and links to the specific parts on FDV I would really appreciate it. But I also understand if you can't.
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Look for the 510 V3 connector on that page. It's the one on top of the drop down menu (V3 short body set). Or get one from eBay including the 22mm washer: http://r.ebay.com/nc0g3G
Things I had to do:
File the bottom of the lower brass piece as much as possible.
File half of the lower part of the center pin.
Take out the o-ring (so the bottom brass piece can be screwed on further).
File a bit of the top side of the bottom brass piece so it can screw on even further.
Use a blunt object to flatten the soldering joint between the positive battery contact and the wire as much as possible.
Even after doing all these things it's still a VERY tight fit.
Look for the 510 V3 connector on that page. It's the one on top of the drop down menu (V3 short body set). Or get one from eBay including the 22mm washer: http://r.ebay.com/nc0g3G
Things I had to do:
File the bottom of the lower brass piece as much as possible.
File half of the lower part of the center pin.
Take out the o-ring (so the bottom brass piece can be screwed on further).
File a bit of the top side of the bottom brass piece so it can screw on even further.
Use a blunt object to flatten the soldering joint between the positive battery contact and the wire as much as possible.
Even after doing all these things it's still a VERY tight fit.
Thanks I will give them another going over as well. Might try the dremel out on them but not sure of the attachment I would use. Have already used the car battery wire brush and one for cleaning copper pipes for plumbing.
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I did the top plate and top of the case where the plate contacts on my friend's flask the other day by scraping it with a razor blade....with caution. I almost cut myself.
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