Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[Croak]

That PD4 is a charger board, kinda useful for, you know, charging batteries.

Seriously, the DNA40 doesn't have an onboard charging circuit, if you want to retain USB charging, you need to keep that charging board (and it will work fine with a genuine DNA40). ALL DNA40 powered devices with USB charging have a charging board of some sort.

The part you're having difficulty removing is just a simple microUSB connector, there's no electronics in it, just wiring. Won't do you any good without the charging board.

 

[Pushbutton]

Thanks for the quick replies! I am making good progress!
One last question and again... picture time (shamelessly borrowed an internet search):

Would it be a good idea to connect both 8 AND 11 to the atty negative brass eye? Since i am not seeing any better option for a ground to the battery.

 

[Croak]

Yes, it's a good idea. If you've got the time, you could drill out another ground connection inside the chassis somewhere, but connecting two grounds is still HIGHLY recommended for a DNA40, even if they both route to the same place.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

Thanks for the quick replies! I am making good progress!
One last question and again... picture time (shamelessly borrowed an internet search):

View attachment 504167

Would it be a good idea to connect both 8 AND 11 to the atty negative brass eye? Since i am not seeing any better option for a ground to the battery.

I ran a jumper from 8 to 11 on one board and on another I just used the gnd and didn't solder anything to 11. So the board gets its power from the 510. I've noticed no difference in function between the two mods. It's up to you and how time you want to spend.

 

[Pushbutton]

Yes, it's a good idea. If you've got the time, you could drill out another ground connection inside the chassis somewhere, but connecting two grounds is still HIGHLY recommended for a DNA40, even if they both route to the same place.

Thank you! I sanded the anodizing off the top of the chassis and considering adding a thin film of noalox to help with the connection between chassis and top plate.

 

[funkyrudi]

It´s better to have a second negative connection - from the board to the main body ( screwed or soldered ). Aluminum will oxidze by the time and the issue will start again.
You have taken it apart - why not add one wire?

 

[speed4mee]

The part you're having difficulty removing is just a simple microUSB connector, there's no electronics in it, just wiring. Won't do you any good without the charging board.

This isn't true
I've rebuild my Waidea Flask months ago with an Evolv DNA40. The Tube where the USB port sits in has electronic to load.
The only difference is that the LED turns from red to OFF when it's full charged.
Btw I've used a FatDaddy V4 low profile short, but only the inlay. Works perfect.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

This isn't true
I've rebuild my Waidea Flask months ago with an Evolv DNA40. The Tube where the USB port sits in has electronic to load.
The only difference is that the LED turns from red to OFF when it's full charged.
Btw I've used a FatDaddy V4 low profile short, but only the inlay. Works perfect.

same herenwith fdv's core. just be sure to to insulate the hell out of the top of the battery contact pcb, or risk the the 510 postive connection making contact with it when you screw an atty on (ive fried two boards because of this). i clipped some of the metal contact off that sticks up then slathered hot glue on top of the entire battery contact pcb and topped it off with a clear thin piece of plastic from a water bottle just to be sure. still works great all these months later.

 

[RainZG]

I really do not understand why you all are making such a fuss about grounding in flask?
All that you need to do is connect second GND wire from board to 510 connector GND and that is the best possible grounding method for this and also easiest one

 

[AtmizrOpin]

I really do not understand why you all are making such a fuss about grounding in flask?
All that you need to do is connect second GND wire from board to 510 connector GND and that is the best possible grounding method for this and also easiest one

in one flask i only have one ground wire that serves as the 510 ground and battery ground. works fine, no premature weak battery, correçt ohm reading. so i agree, grounding the board with two wires isnt a must.

 

[KenD]

The Waidea flask and an authentic DNA 40 chip. Will the screen of the chip extend to the "screen window" of the flask without modification? My black flask gave up some time ago and as the case is fantastic I'd like to make it useable again. I'll have no problem soldering the chip (I'll need to add buttons as I've messed up the existing ones), but extending the screen is beyond my "skills".

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[AtmizrOpin]

the clone dna board an the authentic use the same exact screen. you will not have a problem with ribbon length. here are the replacement buttons from www.digikey.com

I had to replace the fire switch on one of my Waidea's but I think the kangxin uses different buttons and or actuators but here's the digi key part number just in case and cheap too.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

did these go the way of the dinosaur? maybe i should change my avatar........to the top!

 

[dwcraig1]

avatar is fine

 

[Tpat591]

Mine are still going strong but getting getting less use these days. They are having a hell of a time pushing the crown tank toppers on them right now and I've gotta take the time to rebuild a couple Lemo2s in the right range for them. Shame the dna40 clone never really pushed a proper full pre-heat punch. Love the old flask form factor but with the Evics, VS200, DX200, Reuleaux DNA200, Nebox, etc, they just don't get the attention they deserve anymore.

 

[dwcraig1]

Wismec has one coming

 

[Tpat591]

Wismec has one coming

They went live on the Vape-Forward site with the Joyetech board already @ $119.99. Don't like that screen being on the side of it. It's just not a flask unless I can read the screen while I got my vape goin on. Zinc Alloy construction is going to make these weigh in a bit heavier and just not sure what to think about the dual battery door.

The Light (Kangxin Mini Clone less flashlight) is $79.99 & The Stout is $89.99.

Of them all I like the idea of the Stout best - but not at $89.99. Half that, might give it a shot. Still waiting on the RX200 and a couple ERM+ kits so I can hold off on these for a good while.

 

[Croak]

Joyetech may have just killed the Classic with the rollout of the Cuboid. Much better display/UI, small form factor, more power (for now) easy battery swapping, and the biggy, at less than half the price. Hell, the Cuboid isn't much larger than the Stout and is half the price of it as well.

And lord, I hope they update the firmware on the VF line soon to ditch that ugly display font (like the RX200 did recently).

 

[Tpat591]

Joyetech may have just killed the Classic with the rollout of the Cuboid. Much better display/UI, small form factor, more power (for now) easy battery swapping, and the biggy, at less than half the price. Hell, the Cuboid isn't much larger than the Stout and is half the price of it as well.

And lord, I hope they update the firmware on the VF line soon to ditch that ugly display font (like the RX200 did recently).

Thought you were a VF Classic Guy who would be buying the new one at any price! Think you know a guy and he proves you wrong!

Aren't they saying cubeoid is pushing 200w? How they doing that on 2 - 18650s?

EDIT: Sorry 150w - I was sure someone said 200w

 

[Tpat591]