Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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got my hana clone box today. threw a batt in and..............'check atomizer' with any and all of my toppers, lol. did some surgery and noticed they never stripped the insulation off of the 510 ground wire when they trapped it under a case screw by the bottom of the 510! so i stripped the wire and soldered it directly to the 510. works great now. definitely not a rayn board. can't make out who made it. reads res good, fires my nife builds, with a temp offset, obviously. slight delay like the rayn. no tp message, which i like. no preheat. still playing with it. for $23 shipped and 5 minutes for diagnosing/soldering, i think it's worth it. did i need this box mod, nope, but glad i got it.
edit.......so after some time with this quirky device, i found the board to kinda crappy, inconsistent, and flakey. will not regulate below 5 watts when in tc. does display "temperature protect", but only when wattage is being throttled back hard, around the 7-5 watt mark. set it at 1 watt and fires about 15, lol. turns off after 10 min. kinda sorta passed the dry cotton test with nife and Ti. has the opposite of preheat; ramps up to your set wattage rather than going above. cute little wannabe is trying though
i'll probably end up giving this away to a new vaper who just started vaping
edit.......so after some time with this quirky device, i found the board to kinda crappy, inconsistent, and flakey. will not regulate below 5 watts when in tc. does display "temperature protect", but only when wattage is being throttled back hard, around the 7-5 watt mark. set it at 1 watt and fires about 15, lol. turns off after 10 min. kinda sorta passed the dry cotton test with nife and Ti. has the opposite of preheat; ramps up to your set wattage rather than going above. cute little wannabe is trying though
i'll probably end up giving this away to a new vaper who just started vaping
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Would anyone like my broken silver Kangxin for spares or repair? The 510 has a bodged fix using putty, and the screen ribbon is broken. The chassis has some small dents but the board is fully functional.
PM me if anyone is interested. I can provide pics and shipping costs. To US is about £5-6.
PM me if anyone is interested. I can provide pics and shipping costs. To US is about £5-6.
Can anyone help me find the switch used under the fire button of the sxk flask? Mine went mushy and I'd like to buy a replacement for when it goes.
If no one knows where I can find one, I might be taking you up on that offer sonicbomb
If no one knows where I can find one, I might be taking you up on that offer sonicbomb
do the sxk buttons look like these. i used these buttons to replace the ones in my waidea VF. picture with the P/N below. hopes this helps. www.digi-key.com
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How time fliesWow, this thread is exactly a year old now.
Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
So here I am giving some long time missing love to my DIY sqounker flask with a fresh SS 430 dual build in an Odin clone. Pretty darn good vape. Had to guess on the temp, set it to 35 watts and 200F. Doing a side by side comparison between it and my DNA200 with a Bellus, also 35 watts (well 45 preheat). Same juice.
Conclusion: beer tastes the same no matter which one I vape last.
Conclusion: beer tastes the same no matter which one I vape last.
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My Kangxin flask 510 disintegrated. The paint fell off my SXK rDNA, it had wildly inaccurate resistance reading and was less powerful than spec, and is now in a drawer along with my SXK flask for the same reasons.
I would think very carefully before ever buying another cheapo regulated clone ever again.
I would think very carefully before ever buying another cheapo regulated clone ever again.
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My Waidea flask is still hanging in there, though seeing limited use in the last six months since I dropped Ni200 and don't do Kanthal either. Never did get around to fixing my original Kangxin flask (button glue failure), it's still a ziplock bag of parts.
Does anybody know the size and/or a source for replacement top plate screws for the SXK flask? I have one that's pretty much stripped and I want to do some sanding under it? Thanks!
My Waidea flask is still working like the day I got it. Not a problem with it at all. It see's use a couple of days a week. I still have the DNA chip and fat daddy's 510 for it laying around for it some where. If it ever die's I'll put them in. Even the finish looks like new.
I'd love to see if the new DNA75 board will fit inside, if they release a small screen version. There's a HUGE market for DNA40 "drop in" upgrades, there's a lot of nice high end mods that would get a new lease on life with more wattage and more features, either as a retrofit, or as a way for mod makers to not have to totally retool their DNA40 lineup.
do you know if the 200 mounts and bezels are compatible with the 75?
probably @Tpat591. judging from the size of the reference dna 75 box, which looks exactly the same size as the 200 ref box, i'd say we're looking at a 200 board rearranged for 75 watts, single cell op.
edit......maybe not tho. looks as tho the 75 + and - buttons are mounted vertically on this config. that might or might not play a role in board mounting.
edit......maybe not tho. looks as tho the 75 + and - buttons are mounted vertically on this config. that might or might not play a role in board mounting.
The plumes guys were showing off what they said were their DNA75 reference mods and provided they are not showing us DNA200 reference mods as a joke or disinformation campaign, sure looks like the buttons on the 75 are side by side. Know that the VT75 was an over/under so I'm very confused.
Figured BRD had an opportunity to see the real thing in person while eating Tacos which was why I asked him.
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