Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[Angel Eyes]

the torx screws on the black one are pretty much shot. i have to hammer a micro flat head screwdriver into where the torx bit would normally go if i want to unscrew the top plate.

the black one never had Torx screws, nor did your silver one, they both had those crappy cheap soft Chinese allen heads, some of which are now shot - you need to PM me on here and get some of these awesome German made stainless hardened Torx screws - they will never strip out! - they will still look like new even if you remove the cover every day!

 

[AtmizrOpin]

the black one never had Torx screws, nor did your silver one, they both had those crappy cheap soft Chinese allen heads, some of which are now shot - you need to PM me on here and get some of these awesome German made stainless hardened Torx screws - they will never strip out! - they will still look like new even if you remove the cover every day!

well that explains why the torx worked a couple times but eventually stopped working. i did try to find a small enough allen key (i think it's a .4 or something super tiny)but never found one that small that readily available in a store. i seriously doubt i'll need any german allen keys. i have no reason to get back inside of either mod. if something tragic does happen to one of em, i'll smash a flat head down into the allen screw like before. thanks tho.

 

[dwcraig1]

With TC wire the DNA40 will preheat using up to 40 watts while the 25 will be using upwards of 25 watts, that would be the primary difference between them vaping TC wire under 25 watts.

 

[cobalt327]

Don't want to run afoul of the rules but if anyone is interested in an authentic dna 40 or DNA 25 board for much less than Evolv charges, I have one of each plus an Evolv 1A onboard charger. Unused, 10/10 condition. PM for details.

 

[KenD]

They were labelled Rayn v3 or V4 depending on the model. No advantages. Half second delay on fire, TC not as accurate, intermittent or lazy pre-heat punch.

If you do a search of this thread though there were links to where you could buy the SXK chips that had the nickle purity settings/adjust ability. Evolv is rumored to be working on a DNA50 for smaller format mods but again that is rumor. Joyetech also sells their chips upwards of $60us

Less efficient battery use as well.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[dwcraig1]

I just got done bringing out of retirement my 60 watt SXK flask, added my Ehpro eTank F1 to it. 0.21Ω @ 60 watts. Of coarse it read the atty as 0.16Ω but vaped quite well. OK back in the box till next time.

 

[sonicbomb]

I've been using my SXK rDna for the last 8 months which has the exact same chipset as the flask. Not only does it have a horribly inaccurate resistance meter, it also delivers at least 10-15 watts less than displayed. I feel like I've had my moneys worth though as I've run it into the ground. My black SXK flask is still in my backup pile unused.

 

[Tpat591]

The Thread is Still Alive? While you guys are here I wanted to ask those who fully disassembled the clones in the past whether you would would rather try to install a DNA75 board into a Kangxin or Waidea Clone? Thinking the Kangxin would be much easier to get down to the usb port but figure one of you guys would know better than me.

 

[RainZG]

I am working on dna75 in kangix clone. I need to 3d print out few parts ans then assembly will begin

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[Tpat591]

I am working on dna75 in kangix clone. I need to 3d print out few parts ans then assembly will begin

Sent from my LG-H960 using Tapatalk

Can you share your experiences & photos? What parts do you need to print? You doing a whole new Top panel rather than widening the display or are you creating a cradle for Kangxin? How did you handle the usb extension?

 

[Tpat591]

Think the Waidea would be my preferred one to do but it is such a pretty flask I'd be reluctant to screw it up enlarging the screen and ruin the anodizing. While I had taken one of mine mine mostly apart to ground it at the board and replace the 510, I never did pull the usb on it. As I remember it almost looked like it was mounted inside a compression collar. Did anyone ever pull the usb assembly out of a Waidea and possibly have some pics of it?

 

[RainZG]

Can you share your experiences & photos? What parts do you need to print? You doing a whole new Top panel rather than widening the display or are you creating a cradle for Kangxin? How did you handle the usb extension?

I am creating cradle so that I can use different buttons (Kangix is the only clone that has different buttons from other clones).
Top panel will be grinded to fit larger screen.
I will take pictures when I start to work on it. I have all parts now(dna75 board, switches, ss buttons, flat cable extension) and on Wednesday I should have 3d printer ready as well.

USB extension I didn't look at yet, but shold be easy to do.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

Depending on how nice you want it to look, and how skilled you are with soldering and desoldering, the usb and i'm guessing MAYBE the screen ribbon might reach without any extension. Here's my Waidea with a DNA200 laying on it. same dimensions as the DNA 75. minus the balance taps on the dna75.

 

[RainZG]

DNA200 is longer then DNA75, difference is 5mm.
There is no way that you can install screen witout ribbon extension. And as for USB, position is different and you cannot install board in flask in a way that USB will look good in any way + you would need to gind flask. So both of them have to have extensions

 

[AtmizrOpin]

DNA200 is longer then DNA75, difference is 5mm.
There is no way that you can install screen witout ribbon extension. And as for USB, position is different and you cannot install board in flask in a way that USB will look good in any way + you would need to gind flask. So both of them have to have extensions

correct. so not worth it. just wait for vaporshark to release their dna133 flask.

 

[RainZG]

correct. so not worth it. just wait for vaporshark to release their dna133 flask.

Maybe not worth it to you, for me it is. And I do not like new flask form from vaporshark.

 

[RainZG]

Can you share your experiences & photos? What parts do you need to print? You doing a whole new Top panel rather than widening the display or are you creating a cradle for Kangxin? How did you handle the usb extension?

Few photos as promised.
Kangix flask does not have cradle at all, bull.... design Kangix buttons are .... too, so I decided to replace them with Omrom B3F 1052 micro switches. In order to do so I needed also SS buttons which I ordered online. 6mm diameter for up/down and 9mm diameter for fire button.

I have grinned flask internals. What was grinned was top holder of battery (In order to fit fatdaddy v3 short 510 connector) and I have widen a bit part in the middle where board goes. Also, button holes are now 6mm diameter for up/down buttons(they were 5,8mm) and fire button is now 9mm (it was 8,5mm)
Flask is quite old so it is beaten up a lot It will be sanded and painted before final assembly

Today I did test fit of everything. Looks quite good, few more things to sand down and change in design but I am getting there. I will continue to work on it next weekend as I am away on business trip for the week.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

Nice...thanks for the peak.

 

[Tpat591]

Few photos as promised.
Kangix flask does not have cradle at all, bull.... design Kangix buttons are .... too, so I decided to replace them with Omrom B3F 1052 micro switches. In order to do so I needed also SS buttons which I ordered online. 6mm diameter for up/down and 9mm diameter for fire button.

I have grinned flask internals. What was grinned was top holder of battery (In order to fit fatdaddy v3 short 510 connector) and I have widen a bit part in the middle where board goes. Also, button holes are now 6mm diameter for up/down buttons(they were 5,8mm) and fire button is now 9mm (it was 8,5mm)
Flask is quite old so it is beaten up a lot It will be sanded and painted before final assembly

Today I did test fit of everything. Looks quite good, few more things to sand down and change in design but I am getting there. I will continue to work on it next weekend as I am away on business trip for the week.

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Coming together nicely. Great job documenting your efforts! Dna75 belongs in a Flask!. Widening the screen opening and ruining the anodizing has me vexed as to how to re-coat it though.

 

[RainZG]

Coming together nicely. Great job documenting your efforts! Dna75 belongs in a Flask!. Widening the screen opening and ruining the anodizing has me vexed as to how to re-coat it though.

Well, to be 100% honest that is the part I am still thinking how to do. One option is to widen existing display opening and other option is to create new one.
I have decided to go with option 1, see how it will look like. If I will not be happy with looks of it then I will go and create brand new top, probably in the vaporshark VF style.

But this build would be so much easier if it was done on original vaporshark VF or on SXK/Waidea flask.