Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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ok. Didn't someone (Croak??) post a fix for that?? If so, you have a free unit!!
I have not disassembled it to figure out the issue...it would read 1/2 charge, but give the weak battery msg...swap the batteries and it would be fine. Pull the batteries and test, and one was drained. I will know more when I take it apart.
I posted what I "thought" was a fix by extending the terminal posts, but after doing that I had swapped the batteries so I was mislead into thinking it was working.
My gen 2 unit still rocks and is my daily vape now.
whoops. My bad. I knew someone posted it. This is a long thread lol!!
Glad all well and truly impressed with F3Vape customer service (although I wish they would ship my unit already!!)
steve
Do you have any pictures of the USB charging port with the wrap on it? Does it line up or is it off? Also, what brand wrap is this?
The USB port is way off, the bottom of the Kangxin port is about as high as the charge indicator light above the USB port on an authentic.
If you order one from J-Wraps, just ask for it without the USB cut-out. You can always trim a little rectangle out if you actually use the port and its 10-12 hour charge time.
If you order one from J-Wraps, just ask for it without the USB cut-out. You can always trim a little rectangle out if you actually use the port and its 10-12 hour charge time.
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You still have a free unit. Just pop the hood and fix it. Shouldn't be that hard. Probably just a wire.
Regards
Tony
Guess whose 510 connector on their vaporflask clone from 3fvape has officially .... the bed? I'll give you a hint: this guy.
I was already having issues with the centerpost being misaligned, I take off the top to see if I can fix it or clean it or something and the positive wire wasn't soldered in well enough to stay attached to the centerpost.the act of taking off the cover was enough to dislodge it. I think the QC is a little off.
Gonna see if I can get someone to replace it with a fatdaddy 510 since I don't own a soldering iron.
I was already having issues with the centerpost being misaligned, I take off the top to see if I can fix it or clean it or something and the positive wire wasn't soldered in well enough to stay attached to the centerpost.the act of taking off the cover was enough to dislodge it. I think the QC is a little off.
Gonna see if I can get someone to replace it with a fatdaddy 510 since I don't own a soldering iron.
If you can't find a personal locally, you can send it with the 510 and I will give it a shot. You want the shorter one.
VAPOR FLASK DNA 40 STYLE 510 VARIABLE WATTAGE MOD - SILVER, ALUMINUM Alloy, 2 X 18650, NO USB CHARGING, Temperature Control - 3FVape this one. Was in the first batch that 3f sold.
One of the guys at work supposedly knows a guy that makes his own mods, so I'm gonna try to throw a few bucks at him and see if he can do it. I have a fatdaddy v4 low profile on hand, hopefully that'll fit
Luckily I picked up a mech mod for my birthday to play with. Had the worst luck with e-cigs lately. First my kayfun v4 somehow managed to break the 510 center screw on my cana and now the vaporflask is on the DL.
You'll probably need to shim it to get it flush with the top plate if you're using the low profile. With the cutout for the 510, a standard thickness (~2mm) top plate would be best.
And looking at mine from the inside, that hole for the 510 is huge, about twice the diameter of the Vartitube 510 I have here, and looks like its press-fitted (I could be wrong).
As a side note, I found a stainless washer at Home Depot that would work great, ON TOP of the Varitube (JB Weld?). It's just a hair smaller in diameter than the 510 cutout on the top of the K-Flask, and the 1/4" ID is just a hair larger than the 510 connector hole, and it's about 1mm thick so it should sit flush with the top plate, sitting on top of the Varitube connector. It would end up looking like that Waidea Flask, the silver one with no air slot. At $0.11 each, what the heck, I picked up a couple. Should polish up halfway decent too, being zinc. Picture shows the rounded side, other side is flat.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-1-4-in-Zinc-Plated-Cut-Washer-807216/204633088?N=5yc1vZc2ck
And looking at mine from the inside, that hole for the 510 is huge, about twice the diameter of the Vartitube 510 I have here, and looks like its press-fitted (I could be wrong).
As a side note, I found a stainless washer at Home Depot that would work great, ON TOP of the Varitube (JB Weld?). It's just a hair smaller in diameter than the 510 cutout on the top of the K-Flask, and the 1/4" ID is just a hair larger than the 510 connector hole, and it's about 1mm thick so it should sit flush with the top plate, sitting on top of the Varitube connector. It would end up looking like that Waidea Flask, the silver one with no air slot. At $0.11 each, what the heck, I picked up a couple. Should polish up halfway decent too, being zinc. Picture shows the rounded side, other side is flat.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-1-4-in-Zinc-Plated-Cut-Washer-807216/204633088?N=5yc1vZc2ck
I'm about to pull the trigger on #2806 (v3 w/ SS 510) b/c it's the only model not listed as "ships randomly".
I'd really prefer the VShark, but it's still in pre-order, & I find my trust a little lean on Chinese pre-orders
Goggling at world from my iPhone
I'd really prefer the VShark, but it's still in pre-order, & I find my trust a little lean on Chinese pre-orders
Goggling at world from my iPhone
Like I said, the low profile is 510 is too thin, it'll sit recessed about 1mm below the top of the device. By adding that washer as a top cap for the 510, I'd fill that gap so it would be flush, and since it's almost the same size as the circle milled into the top, it should look nice. It won't mess with conductivity either.
Or I may just go with the thin 510 and live with the gap, or pop for a FDV V3 short.
I'm not worried about spills at all...for one thing, it'd take a gallon of juice about a decade to get through all the hot glue inside this thing.
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