Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[TheBloke]

So, it looks like there's a version 4 out. I found it on DHgate. they claim it's 40 watt temp controlled with a stainless steel, brass "floating" 510 pin

I'm in the process of confirming this... I also asked about the chip. if it's what they claim and the chip is solid it might be the one to get.... I would have posted a link but I'm on my phone and it's a pita, sorry. but, if you search "vapor flask v4" and go to the dhgate link you'll find it. $86 US, free shipping to the US and Canada

Haha - well it was inevitable of course, but I would have liked to have at least received my device before it was superseded

Though actually, is this an upgrade really? It's spring loaded. Although yes that's accurate to the original, the general consensus (I thought) was that the best option for a clone would be a manually adjustable, non spring-loaded pin. Because for TC you want the best possible connection, which is best achieved with either a fixed pin (but which might not then be perfectly flush if the atty isn't adjustable), or a manually adjustable pin.

Well, I'm sure it'll be fine, and I'm mostly just trying to convince myself that mine is not (yet) superseded

@lenon - unrelated question: your up/down buttons, are they both at the same height? Or is one of them protruding a little further out of the case than the other? I ask because the genuine VF 2.1 has the down button sticking a little further out than the up button, and I haven't been able to work out whether the clones have replicated this or not.

Some of the clones I've browsed on Alibaba seem to use a colour differentiation - like the up button being brass coloured, not silver. But I don't think that's the case on the Waideas?

Doesn't matter at all, just wondering how close the 1:1 is on the Waidea.

 

[lenon]

Haha - well it was inevitable of course, but I would have liked to have at least received my device before it was superseded

Though actually, is this an upgrade really? It's spring loaded. Although yes that's accurate to the original, the general consensus (I thought) was that the best option for a clone would be a manually adjustable, non spring-loaded pin. Because for TC you want the best possible connection, which is best achieved with either a fixed pin (but which might not then be perfectly flush if the atty isn't adjustable), or a manually adjustable pin.

Well, I'm sure it'll be fine, and I'm mostly just trying to convince myself that mine is not (yet) superseded

@lenon - unrelated question: your up/down buttons, are they both at the same height? Or is one of them protruding a little further out of the case than the other? I ask because the genuine VF 2.1 has the down button sticking a little further out than the up button, and I haven't been able to work out whether the clones have replicated this or not.

Some of the clones I've browsed on Alibaba seem to use a colour differentiation - like the up button being brass coloured, not silver. But I don't think that's the case on the Waideas?

Doesn't matter at all, just wondering how close the 1:1 is on the Waidea.

No, neither the Kangxin nor the Waidea flask replicated the one flush one raised wattage buttons.

 

[AnsonJames]

No, neither the Kangxin nor the Waidea flask replicated the one flush one raised wattage buttons.

I'm pretty sure that that button configuration on the original flask is a faux pa as opposed to being an intentional feature.
If my clone has even buttons, a straight screen and no dings then I'll be happy - the cloners would be taking it a little too far if they included these "features" on the 1/1.

 

[Croak]

No, neither the Kangxin nor the Waidea flask replicated the one flush one raised wattage buttons.

Actually, the Kangxin does, eventually, as the hot glue wears off the buttons.

 

[Croak]

Also, yay, found a relatively cheap replacement screen and ribbon cable. Now do I want the original blue, or go with white (I really like the white on my Cloupor Mini)


I also did my own mounting of the Varitube 510 on the Kangxin flask, and it'll work, but clearance is going to be hella tight between the positive lead off the 510 and the hot lead off the battery beneath it, exacerbated by the fact that the positive lead on the 510 will move down when an atty is screwed in. A Fat Daddy V3 Shorty will have the same problems, since it's the same overall length as the Varitube.

Don't mind the crappy finish on the top plate, I did it some violence when first trying to remove the 510 connector...trick is, remove that damn screw disguised as a blob of solder on the side of the Kangxin 510, and it comes right out. Also, don't let the top plate fly out of your hand whilst prying on it, and then slide face first across a rough concrete garage floor.

I used one of these washers, drilled out with a 3/8" bit (10mm-ish) for the connector to pass through. It's a perfect fit in the cutout, it will press-fit in there very neatly.

Painted one of the washers black just to see how it looked, like the result (or, rather, will like the finished result) since I'm going to sand it down proper and shoot some quality matte black on the entire top plate, it should come out nearly as good as new.

Since this is a crown washer, one side is flat and one is slightly domed (the side with the AAA stamped on it), and I placed the domed side down when mounting, to give me a bit more clearance inside, and to look better from the top.

Notice that the 510 is just a bit higher than the flask. I wanted it that way, saves wear and tear on the top plate as attys screw on, but it's a pretty thin gap, as you can see in the second picture below. I suppose you could use a thinner washer if you can find one, this one is just a hair thicker than 1mm, but if you do that, you're losing clearance inside, which is precious.

And here's a shot of the original connector, with the middle gutted, for a length comparison. Leaving the positive connector in place in the original adds about 2mm to the height, making it about 1.5-2mm mm shorter than the Varitube, assembled.

 

[lenon]

Actually, the Kangxin does, eventually, as the hot glue wears off the buttons.

Lol Croak!

 

[lenon]

Hey Croak, I think maybe this isn't the link you meant to post...

http://www............com/item/1pcs-...455828652.html.

 

[Croak]

Hey Croak, I think maybe this isn't the link you meant to post...

http://www............com/item/1pcs-...455828652.html.

Looks like ECF doesn't like that link, it's being auto redacted by the board software.

Search Google for "1pcs-0-69-inch-OLED-Display-with-96x16-Resolution-and-white-backlight-8pins-Interface-IIC-NEW", should be the first listing, from a company with "Express" in its name.

 

[dwcraig1]

So I'm coming home from Home Depot from buying some wire for my up and coming Flask job , stopped at a red light and there's this law enforcement SUV beside me turning left. I then proceed to take a big rip of my mod when the guy yells "HEY".... oh never mind I thought you were drinking...sorry.I think it was the cloud that brought him to his senses
Can you imagine if I was using my Flask instesd of my Hcigar DNA40.
BTW that was 20 gauge solid I bought.(for the power and 510)

 

[Croak]

Solid is overkill for a 40 watt regulated device. And 20awg solid is going to be a right PITA to work with in that thing.

 

[lenon]

Nice. I'd definitely go with the white. Who doesn't want their stuff to be different?

 

[dwcraig1]

Solid is overkill for a 40 watt regulated device. And 20awg solid is going to be a right PITA to work with in that thing.

I have some 22 also

 

[TheBloke]

So I'm coming home from Home Depot from buying some wire for my up and coming Flask job , stopped at a red light and there's this law enforcement SUV beside me turning left. I then proceed to take a big rip of my mod when the guy yells "HEY".... oh never mind I thought you were drinking...sorry.I think it was the cloud that brought him to his senses
Can you imagine if I was using my Flask instesd of my Hcigar DNA40.
BTW that was 20 gauge solid I bought.(for the power and 510)

Have you seen the Evolv specs for wire sizes?

I know this isn't a genuine Evolv, but I assume for optimum TC it's preferable to use the same as they recommend.

So 20 gauge is within spec, but not the recommended (or apologies if I'm misunderstanding what you're doing!)

Oh, and that's an awesome story! Glad he was nice enough to apologise and not hassle you to save face..!

 

[Croak]

Yeah, but 18-22 gauge stranded is a whole 'nother ballgame compared to working with solid wire, especially in the tight and irregular confines of the Kangxin enclosure.

I'm sure it'll work with solid, it's just likely to be more work, and for very little (if any) real-world return in a regulated device.

Just sayin'.

 

[dwcraig1]

Have you seen the Evolv specs for wire sizes?

I know this isn't a genuine Evolv, but I assume for optimum TC it's preferable to use the same as they recommend.

So 20 gauge is within spec, but not the recommended (or apologies if I'm misunderstanding what you're doing!)

Oh, and that's an awesome story! Glad he was nice enough to apologise and not hassle you to save face..!

That is for stranded wire, solid has a much higher capacity so smaller can be used.
I want to tin the ends of the wires and have them still fit into the holes easily.
For the switches and charger I will use some pretty small stranded wire.
I did a sample just now using the 20 gauge solid, I'm pretty sure that's what I'll end up using.

 

[dwcraig1]

Yeah, but 18-22 gauge stranded is a whole 'nother ballgame compared to working with solid wire, especially in the tight and irregular confines of the Kangxin enclosure.

I'm sure it'll work with solid, it's just likely to be more work, and for very little (if any) real-world return in a regulated device.

Just sayin'.

There are only 4 of them.
Also I noticed there are two holes in the board and the displays ribbon for lining it up on the board. I think my Evolv board that I'm removing is still good but the screen fell off the ribbon. I shall attempt to put the ribbon w/screen from the bad KX chip on the Evolv chip after I test it to see if it still works. I cut the button off the board so it will be a fuzz harder to turn on.

On 2nd thought I think I'll change the screen first and then check it

 

[tchavei]

There are only 4 of them.
Also I noticed there are two holes in the board and the displays ribbon for lining it up on the board. I think my Evolv board that I'm removing is still good but the screen fell off the ribbon. I shall attempt to put the ribbon w/screen from the bad KX chip on the Evolv chip after I test it to see if it still works. I cut the button off the board so it will be a fuzz harder to turn on.

On 2nd thought I think I'll change the screen first and then check it

You can buy original Evolv replacement screens with attached ribbon to resolder.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[TheBloke]

You can buy original Evolv replacement screens with attached ribbon to resolder.

Yeah and they're really cheap, too - £7 in the UK ($10.50) : Replacement DNA 20D/30D/40 OLED Screen

And for some reason, the bigger screen is cheaper - £6 / $9 (not much good for a VF, of course): http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/evolv/DNA-BIG-SCREEN

 

[Angel Eyes]

does any have both the regular Kangxin VF3 and the new one with the stainless 510 - we need a comparison!

 

[TheBloke]

does any have both the regular Kangxin VF3 and the new one with the stainless 510 - we need a comparison!

That's exactly what lenon had until he sold his Kangxin (which tells you something immediately) - read back a few pages and he gave a lengthy comparison!

Spoiler: the Waidea "VF3" with fixed pin stainless-steel 510 is physically a better clone than the Kangxin - more 1:1 - and in terms of chip performed at least as well as the Kangxin.