Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[Tpat591]

Great info! I started a thread on the VS clones so you might want to check in over there!

I noticed a review of this on the 3Fvape page which wasn't particularly complimentary..ahem... He/she seems to be saying it failed a cotton burn test I think. Did you try it??

It probably would have when it badly misread the atty at first. Know my kangxin has misread the NI200 occ subtank attys at first but always self corrected after first hit or so. The VS did not correct itself until I pulled atty & declared new coil. Only used I tank of juice in it so far while writing that & haven't set up an RBA yet with it. TP is working fine now that it is calibrated properly.

Don't have time to play w/ cotton burn tests now but maybe next week.

Link that thread? 12 pages of results for Vapor Shark Clone search none of which are it on first five pages.

 

[Croak]

I'm still thinking of using 20 gauge solid wire for the four larger wires. But may not. Last night I say to my son "do you want to learn how to maintain a soldering iron's tip and learn how to solder"? "No" was his answer (15yr old) So I proceeded to clean a re-tin the tip on one of my irons and tinned the ends of a few pieces of 18 and 22 gauge stranded. Switches came yesterday, board arrives today, FTV parts coming tomorrow. I want my Flask.

What switches did you go with?

 

[VoopingCrane]

With the waidea/ sunlay, I experienced some misfires and 2 to 3 second ramp ups with a Kanger OCC coil. Switched over to RBA, and now a non-issue. It could of been the coil about to crap the bed, because in the morning I had a empty tank from a wick failure, I guess.

Temp control is working well. I feel like there was a little break in period with the nickel wire. Took a 20 or so puffs till flavor and resistance started to settle in. All in all, the flask is performing well. Sometimes gambling pays off. (Unless you bet on Gonzaga!)

 

[VoopingCrane]

What temperature do you guys have your flask at?

 

[TheotherSteveS]

It probably would have when it badly misread the atty at first. Know my kangxin has misread the NI200 occ subtank attys at first but always self corrected after first hit or so. The VS did not correct itself until I pulled atty & declared new coil. Only used I tank of juice in it so far while writing that & haven't set up an RBA yet with it. TP is working fine now that it is calibrated properly.

Don't have time to play w/ cotton burn tests now but maybe next week.

Link that thread? 12 pages of results for Vapor Shark Clone search none of which are it on first five pages.

good point about the review on 3Fvape!

thread is here

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/temperature-control/663404-vaporshark-dna40-clone-thread.html

You using mini or nano ST??

 

[TheotherSteveS]

What temperature do you guys have your flask at?

440F @ 25W - coil is 0.22ohms (32g twisted hardened Ni - approx 3mm mandrel - 11 wraps)

 

[Croak]

Don't get too hung up on temps other people use. Tune by taste, not by the numbers, then note the numbers as a good starting point for the next similar coil build, airflow, wick material and similar PG/VG ratio juice.

I said it before, I'll say it again, 450 (or 420, or whatever) is not some magic number, and any number somebody else gives you is almost worthless because of the variables involved. Atty design, airflow (including how YOU puff, not somebody else), leg length, wicking, juice ratio, external temperature, mod-to-atty connection, price of eggs in China, all play a role.

And for God's sake, don't use Ni200 Kanger OCC coils as any sort of validation about the TC working well or as a reference. The legs are very long, skewing the average resistance reading, and the iffy coil head to base connection and the spring loaded center pin on top of that can also throw a curveball at the readings. Because of the long legs, it generally requires the temp limit be considerably higher with nickel OCC heads to get similar results to say, a good rebuildable setup using the same gauge wire and wraps. Which is a perfect example of why you should tune for taste, not numbers, when setting your temperature limit.

 

[dwcraig1]

What switches did you go with?

The only ones that I could find, thought as first the holes were too big but they are the same. Just for to up and down buttons.

Hana "style"
My board seems to have liked Cleveland Ohio 'cause it stopped there on Tuesday night and shows no sign of leaving.

 

[nic_fix]

I found if you go 35w@560f it is very potent on a .15 subtank coil. too potent in fact. might as well enjoy the vape then try to impress people. it will blow more clouds than the aspire though. people are wrong about that. mine is dna40 but I assume sit is the same. I think the subtank nickel is good at 20w and 425f. not that everyone uses a subtank. I am lately.

 

[VoopingCrane]

Not using Nickel OCC coils. Just wondering what everyone else is at. Not looking to copying anyones temp. I'm vaping at 500 degrees because I'm vaping Stash's Forever Young. So, I get the variables that are involved. Just taking a survey.

 

[Croak]

The only ones that I could find, thought as first the holes were too big but they are the same. Just for to up and down buttons.

Hana "style"
My board seems to have liked Cleveland Ohio 'cause it stopped there on Tuesday night and shows no sign of leaving.

Thanks for that, was wondering if those would fit. Broke one of the legs on one of my switches, can't be repaired. Thinking of getting the vertical, two leg version, see if I can use that outer housing to make a more secure fit (it's removable if it doesn't help), and the vertical legs gives me a bit more clearance in there too.

 

[dwcraig1]

Thanks for that, was wondering if those would fit. Broke one of the legs on one of my switches, can't be repaired. Thinking of getting the vertical, two leg version, see if I can use that outer housing to make a more secure fit (it's removable if it doesn't help), and the vertical legs gives me a bit more clearance in there too.

It looks to take in a bit of real estate.
Ordered another board from here: Lonesome Vapors
I needed another one anyway to replace the one that I took out of my Cana, I want my Flask.

 

[Croak]

I'm trying to figure a way to brace the buttons internally, so that the glue or epoxy bond isn't the only thing holding them in place. That bracket gives me something to work with, as does the flat underside of the switch itself.

 

[lenon]

Don't get too hung up on temps other people use. Tune by taste, not by the numbers, then note the numbers as a good starting point for the next similar coil build, airflow, wick material and similar PG/VG ratio juice.

I said it before, I'll say it again, 450 (or 420, or whatever) is not some magic number, and any number somebody else gives you is almost worthless because of the variables involved. Atty design, airflow (including how YOU puff, not somebody else), leg length, wicking, juice ratio, external temperature, mod-to-atty connection, price of eggs in China, all play a role.

And for God's sake, don't use Ni200 Kanger OCC coils as any sort of validation about the TC working well or as a reference. The legs are very long, skewing the average resistance reading, and the iffy coil head to base connection and the spring loaded center pin on top of that can also throw a curveball at the readings. Because of the long legs, it generally requires the temp limit be considerably higher with nickel OCC heads to get similar results to say, a good rebuildable setup using the same gauge wire and wraps. Which is a perfect example of why you should tune for taste, not numbers, when setting your temperature limit.

@VoopingCrane I'm using the OCC coils in my subtank mini with no issues. 40W @560.

Everything you said is spot on Croak, but I would like to point out that the Subtank Mini and Nano do not have that spring loaded center pin.

 

[dwcraig1]

My board has arrived in San Diego, I knew as soon as the 2nd board that I ordered shipped that it would show up. Tomorrows the day I guess. I want my Flask.

 

[dwcraig1]

@VoopingCrane I'm using the OCC coils in my subtank mini with no issues. 40W @560.

Everything you said is spot on Croak, but I would like to point out that the Subtank Mini and Nano do not have that spring loaded center pin.

Regarding the spring loaded center pin on the 25 mm Kanger Subtank. Except for the spring loaded pin the "floating" 510 pin is the same on all three models.
Where one could run into a problem with the spring loaded one would be on a mod that has a spring loaded 510 pin, in which case I would suggest to remove the spring loaded pin from the Subtank. Just how one would go about removing it I don't have the answer just yet, give me a couple minutes.

I'm looking at it now and have no good answer as to how to "nicely" remove it.

So here's what I did with mine, cut off the little pin with flush cutters (old pair) and built up the end a bit with silver solder then sanded it down some on a flat surface.

I've put it on my VS rDNA40 and it's flush, maybe later I'll throw a nickel build in it.

 

[nic_fix]

well if the clone is sturdy might as well go with that. I hate ripping off peoples work but the original was not perfect. which is the only reason they deserve $300. maybe mine got banged in shipping to be fair.

 

[VoopingCrane]

Just started a thread on the Kamry 100w. Feel free to stop by and share your thoughts

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...v-discussion/664275-kamry-100w-do-not-do.html

 

[WeirdWillie]

View attachment 424179

Just started a thread on the Kamry 100w. Feel free to stop by and share your thoughts

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...v-discussion/664275-kamry-100w-do-not-do.html

This has absolutely nothing to do with VF DNA40 clone or temperature control devices.

 

[VoopingCrane]

Wow bro. Take it easy. Where were you during the multi-page discussion on gold jewelry? lol Please put your pitch fork and torch away.