Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[Croak]

Flask is smaller than you think, more compact in use than a MVP, and really, not incredibly bigger (or heavier) than a Cloupor Mini (plus you have the option to run a single 18650 if you find it's too weighty and your britches want to fall down. )

 

[dwcraig1]

My "stuff" is out for delivery

 

[mesamay2003]

Ok, I read through most of this, and I still don't know which version is best to buy...now fasttech has two different versions of what they are calling V4 one is waidea, the other?? Both fixed 510's how much of an issue is this?

 

[Croak]

Fixed 510 isn't the end of the world, unless you have an oddball atty (like one with a really long or short shaft)...the long one may not sit flush, and the short one may not make contact at all. (I know, that's what she said...)

Do keep in mind that a whole lot of popular mods from 2013/2014 didn't have an adjustable or floating 510, including the original iStick and the Innokin MVP, etc. People got by.

 

[VoopingCrane]

The taller one is probably the waidea. But the specs dont mention TC, even though the pics show TC. I would just go to 3F. Not a bad review on their customer service in here yet. Go waidea.

 

[TheBloke]

Definitely Waidea I'd say - I don't recall that we've heard a single bad thing about it yet, certainly nothing serious. Good build quality, inside and out. Battery caps fit properly and line up properly. Good chip. Working TC.

The Kangxin also works well, but a number of people have mentioned a couple of issues like buttons getting loose, and the battery caps not being flush. And I think it was shown that the Kangxin does not use a proper chip sled, and instead the chip is just glued in position?

That said, they may well have been for a Kangxin v3 so maybe the v4 fixes all those issues. But it'd be an unknown versus the known-good Waidea.

 

[TheBloke]

Fixed 510 isn't the end of the world, unless you have an oddball atty (like one with a really long or short shaft)...the long one may not sit flush, and the short one may not make contact at all. (I know, that's what she said...)

Do keep in mind that a whole lot of popular mods from 2013/2014 didn't have an adjustable or floating 510, including the original iStick and the Innokin MVP, etc. People got by.

Plus many people have said that non-spring pin is preferable for TC, because it ensures a solid connection.

I suppose the ideal would be a manually adjustable pin. I don't know if there's any reason why they didn't put that in already, whether the flask design makes it hard or something.

Some of you guys have mentioned that you're changing the 510 and/or the pin, was that to put in an adjustable or spring loaded one?

But yeah, fixed is going to be fine I'm sure - it can be adjusted at the atty end in many cases, anyway.

 

[KenD]

Plus many people have said that non-spring pin is preferable for TC, because it ensures a solid connection.

I suppose the ideal would be a manually adjustable pin. I don't know if there's any reason why they didn't put that in already, whether the flask design makes it hard or something.

Some of you guys have mentioned that you're changing the 510 and/or the pin, was that to put in an adjustable or spring loaded one?

But yeah, fixed is going to be fine I'm sure - it can be adjusted at the atty end in many cases, anyway.

I ordered the Kangxin with the adjustable 510 pin because the fixed pin didn't sound compelling. However, thinking rationally, a fixed pin would be preferable. The adjustable pins on my Cloupor ZNAs and Minis (well, less of a problem with the Minis) are quite loose and tend to screw down as I screw on the atty. I end up keeping the screw a bit raised so my atties don't sit flush anyway. A spring loaded pin would be great, but considering the risk of a bad connection a fixed pin, or even a replaceable screw, is better.

EDIT: an atty that's not flush is more of an issue with mech mods anyway. When the mod and device won't look like one solid piece a small gap isn't that much of an issue.

 

[TheBloke]

I ordered the Kangxin with the adjustable 510 pin because the fixed pin didn't sound compelling. However, thinking rationally, a fixed pin would be preferable. The adjustable pins on my Cloupor ZNAs and Minis (well, less of a problem with the Minis) are quite loose and tend to screw down as I screw on the atty. I end up keeping the screw a bit raised so my atties don't sit flush anyway. A spring loaded pin would be great, but considering the risk of a bad connection a fixed pin, or even a replaceable screw, is better.

EDIT: an atty that's not flush is more of an issue with mech mods anyway. When the mod and device won't look like one solid piece a small gap isn't that much of an issue.

Ah fair enough.

I've only got two mods so far, both sprung, so no experience - but now you mention it the pin adjusting itself on screw-down totally sounds like something that would happen all the time - I already have enough problems with the wrong bits of my multi-part attys/tanks screwing/unscrewing!

And yeah not-flush doesn't bother me at all aesthetically. It's a slightly bigger damage risk I suppose, more likely to snap if it gets knocked. But the force required to do that is likely to damage either mod or atty anyway, I'd think.

Not making a connection at all is what I'd worry most about, but I'd hope most connections err on the side of too long a pin rather than too short.

 

[KenD]

Ah fair enough.

I've only got two mods so far, both sprung, so no experience - but now you mention it the pin adjusting itself on screw-down totally sounds like something that would happen all the time - I already have enough problems with the wrong bits of my multi-part attys/tanks screwing/unscrewing!

Come to think of it, making the adjustable pin fixed should be easy enough by inserting an o-ring between the base and the screw. I'll try that. Should give the benefits of a fixed pin with the added benefit of easy replacement of the pin if something happens.

And yeah not-flush doesn't bother me at all aesthetically. It's a slightly bigger damage risk I suppose, more likely to snap if it gets knocked. But the force required to do that is likely to damage either mod or atty anyway, I'd think.

Yeah, I don't think the 1 mm or so sticking out will be much of a problem. I knock down all of my mods more or less on a daily basis without major problems (actually, one of my ZNAs has an occasional auto firing problem which is probably caused by it having been banged up too often. Seems that the insides of the top cap have shifted a bit, causing a short when screwing the top cap snug. Not caused by atties not sitting snug though).

Not making a connection at all is what I'd worry most about, but I'd hope most connections err on the side of too long a pin rather than too short.

Yeah, that's my experience as well. I've yet to encounter an atty with too short of an 510 to make contact with a regular fixed connector.

 

[HDMontana]

Just saw that Ficalecig had the Waidea flask on sale for $64.98. Add the 5% off code and it's a pretty good deal. Since I have the Kangxin arriving soon, I guess I'll wait to see how the IPV4 that I have on preorder works before thinking about this one. Maybe an updated version will be out then.

 

[lenon]

So, I've got a bit of minor bad news about the Waidea flask. You knew it had to happen! I built a dual 28g coil around a 3mm rod. I tossed it on the waidea, set the temp to 450, the wattage to 40, and hit the fire button. It never got above about 280 degrees, and wouldn't fire more than 28 watts. So, basically, I got no vapor out of it.

I tossed it on my authentic Vaporshark, and it worked fine. So, it looks like this chip might have problems with a higher coil mass. Or...maybe it's the plume veil. I'll try another coil in it and see.

 

[Ryuukon]

After following this thread for a couple of weeks I finally broke down and ordered a Waidea a couple of days ago from Focal. I hate ordering from China though. The wait is HORRIBLE!

But... it gives me time to prepare. I've already got nickel wire on order in various gauges to experiment with, but one thing I'm not quite understanding is what kind of mandrel some of you are using to wrap your coils. Apparently my google-fu is weak in this regard because I keep coming up with tappered rods and other nonsense that wouldn't seem to work well making a spaced coil. What kind of mandrel are you guys using to wrap on?

 

[lenon]

After following this thread for a couple of weeks I finally broke down and ordered a Waidea a couple of days ago from Focal. I hate ordering from China though. The wait is HORRIBLE!

But... it gives me time to prepare. I've already got nickel wire on order in various gauges to experiment with, but one thing I'm not quite understanding is what kind of mandrel some of you are using to wrap your coils. Apparently my google-fu is weak in this regard because I keep coming up with tappered rods and other nonsense that wouldn't seem to work well making a spaced coil. What kind of mandrel are you guys using to wrap on?

I wrap them by hand. Just wrapped them spaced around a screwdriver, then manually even out the spaces.

 

[cliff87]

After following this thread for a couple of weeks I finally broke down and ordered a Waidea a couple of days ago from Focal. I hate ordering from China though. The wait is HORRIBLE!

But... it gives me time to prepare. I've already got nickel wire on order in various gauges to experiment with, but one thing I'm not quite understanding is what kind of mandrel some of you are using to wrap your coils. Apparently my google-fu is weak in this regard because I keep coming up with tappered rods and other nonsense that wouldn't seem to work well making a spaced coil. What kind of mandrel are you guys using to wrap on?

You can also wrap around a fine threaded machine screw, I've been playing around with it and it works pretty well.

 

[dwcraig1]

I have all my parts, got quite a bit done, got a ways to go yet. The FDV BF kit and v3 shorty 510 had me stumped for awhile (had), no speed records being broken here.
My Flask Squonker clone with Evolv board should be finished tomorrow sometime (Saturday).

 

[gratefulbuddy]

Got my waidea from focal today. So, to the point, here are my first impressions and some comparisons to my silver kangxin:
-overall fit and finish is far superior, feels more solid too
-battery caps just screw down flush and line up with each other
-down button sticks out further than the up button by a hair
-screen will flash "temperature protection" including during stealth mode
-boot screen reads "DNA 40"
-both have near-identical 1 sec fire delay
-both have 'issues' during stealth mode - screen coming on and staying on until next fire
thats all I got for now

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Ahh yes I see, just tried it and it shows this:



So they don't have proper tracking for the UK side of the delivery. I don't know if that's good or bad. It feels bad because I get obsessed about these things and sit there refreshing the tracking every 10 minutes. But maybe it's actually good.. because I get obsessed about these things and sit there refreshing the tracking every 10 minutes

I need to be more Zen about these things. When it has arrived it will have arrived, and we shall hear the sound of two batteries vaping.



Maybe that's your equivalent of "It's in customs", in which case it could sit at that stage for days or weeks. Or do you know that it cleared customs already?

I made the mistake of Googling this mysterious "GBLALA" code, which as TheOtherSteveS said is London's (or the UK's) customs clearing house, Langley. Naturally 99% of the references I see online are people saying "How long will it take to clear customs, I've waited three weeks already!"

Not good for my Zenness. I will remember that for Steve it took only three days, and cast all other experiences from my mind.

I so feel your pain mate. I was doing exactly the same thing, As it happened, I posted here that I had given up on mine literally 5 minutes before it arrived on my desk at work! The Vaping Gods move in mysterious ways.
I bet you get it before Friday!!

Hang in there

steve

 

[TheBloke]

So, I've got a bit of minor bad news about the Waidea flask. You knew it had to happen! I built a dual 28g coil around a 3mm rod. I tossed it on the waidea, set the temp to 450, the wattage to 40, and hit the fire button. It never got above about 280 degrees, and wouldn't fire more than 28 watts. So, basically, I got no vapor out of it.

I tossed it on my authentic Vaporshark, and it worked fine. So, it looks like this chip might have problems with a higher coil mass. Or...maybe it's the plume veil. I'll try another coil in it and see.

Ah well, I suppose it was too much to hope it would be completely perfect!

That said, according to pbusardo's discussions with Evolv, dual coil should not really be used for TC anyway. Or rather, you'd have to get the coils so precisely the same that in practice it's not practical.

Now clearly in your case that build did in fact work on a genuine Evolv. But as you were already at the limits of current TC's capabilities, I wonder if it's possible that it might not have worked on the genuine, either. Like whether just the act of removing it from the VF clone and putting it on the VS was enough to bring it back in tolerance. Even whether it moved slightly as you were re-attaching the Plume Veil.

Have you tried taking that same coil back off the VS and trying it again in the VF?

I mean it's pretty likely that there is indeed a slight difference in performance between genuine and the clone chips. But if that's applying to dual coil only, I for one am not too concerned because I wasn't really expecting dual coil to work anyway, even on a genuine DNA 40 device.

 

[ThunderDan]

Just saw that Ficalecig had the Waidea flask on sale for $64.98. Add the 5% off code and it's a pretty good deal. Since I have the Kangxin arriving soon, I guess I'll wait to see how the IPV4 that I have on preorder works before thinking about this one. Maybe an updated version will be out then.

I saw that too, and jumped on it. I wasn't able to get the 5% off code applied, tried a couple of them, oh well, $65 is still a pretty good deal. I couldn't justify the cost of the real deal to myself, I'm not sure I'll like the flask design yet.

I hadn't researched these at all, but going through the last 30 pages or so it sounds like the Waidea one should be nice. I like the looks of the stainless 510, even if it is fixed, not a deal breaker by no means.