Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[TheBloke]

Cheers mate!

What did you mean by adjustment on the terminals? If I look down the tubes I can see a silver terminal at the end of each tube, is that what you mean? If so, how is it adjusted in the Kangxin? Do you have to take the whole top panel off?

I need to be careful about dismantling in case it is screwed and 3FVape want it returned. I heard that for some people with faults they were saying to keep them, as compensation for inconvenience. I think that was 3F, unless it was fasttech? But then the other day I think I read someone saying that their Chinese vendor wanted it returned. If they do want it returned that'll be a huge PITA - a month wait minimum, plus whatever the postage costs are

Anyway, I can't risk damaging it myself in case they do want it back - or even if they don't, until I've made the video demonstrating the problem.

But if there's an easy/safe adjustment that I can try, I certainly will!

 

[tchavei]

Most electronic will go berserk with insufficient voltage. I would hold a bit before blaming anything and make sure both batteries are fully charged.

My 25R arrived at 25% charge tops and would crash further under load. Nothing a couple of hours on a charger didn't solve though.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[TheBloke]

OK thanks Tony, fingers crossed!

I am going to be very very patient and wait for at least 2 hours charged, I think. That'll be 33% charge on top of whatever was already in there.

 

[WeirdWillie]

Tube 1 = the one below the 510; Tube 2 = the one below the screen (that's just how I refer to them)
Tried four tests: battery 1 in tube 1; battery 2 in tube 1; battery 1 in tube 2; battery 2 in tube 2
With either battery 1 or battery 2 in tube 2 (below screen), it does not turn on at all
With either battery 1 or battery 2 in tube 1 (below 510), pressing fire brings up "DNA 40" then it immediately went blank again.

And this doesn't clue you in that you have a battery connection issue of some sort?
Could be the cap and thread end or could be broken solder joint on the positive end.
Either or both batteries should power it up.
If it were me I'd disassemble it and check and/or hit all solder joints with an iron.

 

[tchavei]

And this doesn't clue you in that you have a battery connection issue of some sort?
Could be the cap and thread end or could be broken solder joint on the positive end.
Either or both batteries should power it up.
If it were me I'd disassemble it and check and/or hit all solder joints with an iron.

Probably right.

I would use those couple of hours to really clean the mod and lube all threads and such. Then we can speculate further

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Cheers mate!

What did you mean by adjustment on the terminals? If I look down the tubes I can see a silver terminal at the end of each tube, is that what you mean? If so, how is it adjusted in the Kangxin? Do you have to take the whole top panel off?

I need to be careful about dismantling in case it is screwed and 3FVape want it returned. I heard that for some people with faults they were saying to keep them, as compensation for inconvenience. I think that was 3F, unless it was FastTech? But then the other day I think I read someone saying that their Chinese vendor wanted it returned. If they do want it returned that'll be a huge PITA - a month wait minimum, plus whatever the postage costs are

Anyway, I can't risk damaging it myself in case they do want it back - or even if they don't, until I've made the video demonstrating the problem.

But if there's an easy/safe adjustment that I can try, I certainly will!

Kangxin have a screw which the waidea doesnt! I just looked. I fear that weirdwillie is right and you have a connection issue but hope for the best when the batts are charged up!

 

[dwcraig1]

Don't panic till after the batteries are charged.(some anyway)

 

[TheBloke]

And this doesn't clue you in that you have a battery connection issue of some sort?
Could be the cap and thread end or could be broken solder joint on the positive end.
Either or both batteries should power it up.
If it were me I'd disassemble it and check and/or hit all solder joints with an iron.

Indeed, that's why I did that test!

Things seem to be improving, ish. I went over to it and checked it after 1:15 of charing, and the red light didn't seem to be on any more (not good). But (good), it then powered on again, and stayed on. Definitely an improvement to 1 hour ago. Still hasn't fired.

I thoroughly cleaned both battery contacts and as much of the inside of the tube as I could, including the contact (reaching in with a cotton bud, so not very hard) and got it to turn on with either battery in either tube.

So quite possibly it was full of gunk, and the batteries had barely any charge, and it was only running on one battery, and it goes haywire (as Tony said) on very low battery..!

Anyway i'm running off now to buy another 2 18650s - well, if they fit, they're AW 20A 2000mah, the only ones I can find to buy locally. And, most importantly, a charger. Only a Nitecore I2 instead of the D I wanted, but I don't care I just want this thing to work!!

Thanks all for the quick support, and apologies if it turns out that I've just been a hasty idiot in not cleaning this properly first!

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Indeed, that's why I did that test!

Things seem to be improving, ish. I went over to it and checked it after 1:15 of charing, and the red light didn't seem to be on any more (not good). But (good), it then powered on again, and stayed on. Definitely an improvement to 1 hour ago. Still hasn't fired.

I thoroughly cleaned both battery contacts and as much of the inside of the tube as I could, including the contact (reaching in with a cotton bud, so not very hard) and got it to turn on with either battery in either tube.

So quite possibly it was full of gunk, and the batteries had barely any charge, and it was only running on one battery, and it goes haywire (as Tony said) on very low battery..!

Anyway i'm running off now to buy another 2 18650s - well, if they fit, they're AW 20A 2000mah, the only ones I can find to buy locally. And, most importantly, a charger. Only a Nitecore I2 instead of the D I wanted, but I don't care I just want this thing to work!!

Thanks all for the quick support, and apologies if it turns out that I've just been a hasty idiot in not cleaning this properly first!

sounds promising. No need to apologise btw! As long as the damn thing kicks back into life with a fresh power plant!! Fingers crossed.

 

[dwcraig1]

^^^^is that "you didn't fire it" or "it doesn't fire"?

 

[Croak]

Nitecore I2 is a fine charger, just doesn't have the fancy display.

 

[ThunderDan]

Nitecore I2 is a fine charger, just doesn't have the fancy display.

It has fancy flashing LEDs though.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Croak is right of course. I have the D2 which is great but viewed in one way, the display is just another thing to break in the long run!

 

[Croak]

And the dosh you spend on the D series for the display is a few quid I'd rather have for something else anyway.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Now you made me feel profligate... lol!

 

[HDMontana]

So now that I have had my Kangxin for a couple of days, I just wanted to give my thoughts on it. Finish looks good. Can't find any imperfections and all the seams line up well. USB charging port lined up with cutout. I backed out the battery screws, up inside, a half a turn. Wanted to make sure I got good contact and have read a couple of places where this was recommended. Threads in the battery slots were nice and clean. Added a couple of fully charged batteries. Buttons nice and clicky and look good so far. Turned unit on. Got the KX-400 on the screen. Added a Kayfun V4 with a .15 ohm ni200 coil. Adjusted the settings. All the display functions seem to work fine. Fired it up and started vaping. Works well and I can see the wattage on the screen changing to try to keep the coil at my settings. This is my first TP mod, so I have nothing to compare it too, but I like how it is performing. Used it for a little while and noticed battery level seemed to be dropping quicker than I would have expected. Took batteries out. Put left one back in and it turned back on. Took that battery out and put in right side. Would NOT turn on. Kept that battery in it and switched the battery caps. Now it turned on. Obviously something going on with battery cap. Compared the two and noticed that the one that did not work, did not have the center nipple protruding out like the one that did. I took a file and roughed it up slightly. Reinstalled one battery and put the non working battery cap back on. It turned on fine and has worked fine since. This might be the issue that others have when they say only one battery is working and discharging in the mod. I have switched out battery pairs twice now and have checked voltage on them after using. Both batteries come out at the exact same voltage per the multi meter I used to check them. I was starting to get disappointed that I had not ordered the Waidea version, since that one has started to get good feedback, but I am happy so far with this one. Nice fit and finish, batteries don't rattle inside, good feeling buttons and works great now that I figured out the battery issue. I did add a 510 heat sink to protect the threads. Reading on the screen reads .14 ohms compared to the ohm readers .15, but I can live with that if it helps protect the threads and the mod from getting overly warm when I chain vape.

 

[TheBloke]

Yeah so I'm pretty sure it's fcked.

I had just written out a long post, explaining how happy I was because it was all working! Then it stopped.

I got 2 x AW 2200mah 20A batteries and an EFest Luc v4 charger. The batteries turned out to be button top, but they fit fine in the tubes and would I assume give a nice snug connection.

Cleaned all the threads again thoroughly, including with a toothbrush, and cleaned the caps. Charged the AWs up to 4.2V, put them in, and it turned on and started firing fine.

Once it was up and running, I took out first one battery and confirmed it still worked, then replaced it and took out the other, still worked. So both tubes are working independently.

It worked for about 20 minutes I guess, using the Atlantis reading 0.58 ohms. Just now I took another vape, and it shut down in the middle of the vape. Screen just went blank. It wouldn't turn back on at first, but a minute later it did - showing DNA 40 then the resistance. Pressed fire and it turned straight off again.

Then it wouldn't turn on for a little while. Took the Atlantis off, pressed fire and it turned on. Put the tank back on, it read it OK, New Up/Same Down. Held fire and it vaped for maybe a second or two, then the vaping stopped, then it turned off.

Again wouldn't turn back on, including this time when I took the tank off. Still hasn't turned back on 10 minutes later.

I took out one battery, the one under the screen, and then it turned on. Put the tank back on, pressed New Up, and it fired, again for about 1-2 seconds, very little vapour, then shut down again.

Took out the second battery and put back in the first, in the other slot. Same thing pretty much, except this time it shut down before it produced any vapour.

Any thoughts on anything else to try before I contact 3F?

 

[TheotherSteveS]

To be honest it really looks like its faulty - probes a bas connection to the board or something. Unless you are up for trying to track down the fault and fix it, I would just call it a day, take some vids/pics and mail 3fvape. Don't know what others think though...really sorry to hear about that

 

[TheotherSteveS]

all this is in normal mode right?? Not temp..

 

[TheBloke]

all this is in normal mode right?? Not temp..

Correct, I turned that off this morning. It shows "Off" at the bottom left when I first turn it on