Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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OK it must be a loose connection - most likely somewhere near the top, near the screen. I'm guessing the connection to the batteries?
Following my last update, I put the AWs back in to charge, so I had all four batteries charging.
I took the AWs off when they were fully charged (4.2V and charging animation stopped.) I put them in the Flask, and it wouldn't even turn on - no DNA 40 shown, screen resolutely blank.
Then I took the Samsungs out - not fully charged yet, showing 4.1V. Put them in, and the screen turned on once, briefly, just long enough to show DNA 40, then off again. Tried again and it flashed DNA 40 for a second, then off, then nothing after that.
Then I just shook it about a bit, not too violently. That did nothing. Then I tapped it firmly in various places near the top screen. That got it to turn on, and it stayed on until I vaped, at which point it turned off (no vapour.)
I tapped it again, more firmly, on the back side, underneath the screen. Then it turned on, stayed on, and vaped. I've taken a couple of vapes since then, still working. (Of course I'm holding it very tentatively!)
This is where I tapped it when it started vaping again:
Argh, so now a dilemma. Do I take it apart and try and fix it?? I do have a soldering iron. I do have solder, and some separate flux. I have used it.. once. It was a bit messy. I could practice first. If I take it apart and screw it all up, and they want this one back, I'm screwed. If I fix it, I have a working device much quicker! And I'll feel like a champion!
Any thoughts on how easy this might be to fix? Any thoughts on whether I can open it up without risking major damage, to get a better assessment? Any thoughts on whether my fix could be good enough for TC etc to still work (I know that probably depends on what exactly is broken, but battery connection is currently looking most likely?) Any thoughts on anything??
Following my last update, I put the AWs back in to charge, so I had all four batteries charging.
I took the AWs off when they were fully charged (4.2V and charging animation stopped.) I put them in the Flask, and it wouldn't even turn on - no DNA 40 shown, screen resolutely blank.
Then I took the Samsungs out - not fully charged yet, showing 4.1V. Put them in, and the screen turned on once, briefly, just long enough to show DNA 40, then off again. Tried again and it flashed DNA 40 for a second, then off, then nothing after that.
Then I just shook it about a bit, not too violently. That did nothing. Then I tapped it firmly in various places near the top screen. That got it to turn on, and it stayed on until I vaped, at which point it turned off (no vapour.)
I tapped it again, more firmly, on the back side, underneath the screen. Then it turned on, stayed on, and vaped. I've taken a couple of vapes since then, still working. (Of course I'm holding it very tentatively!)
This is where I tapped it when it started vaping again:
Argh, so now a dilemma. Do I take it apart and try and fix it?? I do have a soldering iron. I do have solder, and some separate flux. I have used it.. once. It was a bit messy. I could practice first. If I take it apart and screw it all up, and they want this one back, I'm screwed. If I fix it, I have a working device much quicker! And I'll feel like a champion!
Any thoughts on how easy this might be to fix? Any thoughts on whether I can open it up without risking major damage, to get a better assessment? Any thoughts on whether my fix could be good enough for TC etc to still work (I know that probably depends on what exactly is broken, but battery connection is currently looking most likely?) Any thoughts on anything??
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Bloke,
No affine but you are "Beating a Dead Horse". All of us are the same we will even try standing on our heads trying to make our new toy "Not Broken" anymore. Experience tells us it won't work but we still keep trying.
Just contact 3F and let them know I am sure they will fix you up with a good unit.
Also, just my two cents, don't use button top batteries in your unit they are really designed for "Flat Tops" and the extra extension and pressure on the internal contact will make it difficult if not impossible to ever use flat tops.
I feel you pain there is not much worse than a whole bunch of things going wrong when you were all primed to have a good time with your new Mod.
OK it must be a loose connection - most likely somewhere near the top, near the screen. I'm guessing the connection to the batteries?
Following my last update, I put the AWs back in to charge, so I had all four batteries charging.
I took the AWs off when they were fully charged (4.2V and charging animation stopped.) I put them in the Flask, and it wouldn't even turn on - no DNA 40 shown, screen resolutely blank.
Then I took the Samsungs out - not fully charged yet, showing 4.1V. Put them in, and the screen turned on once, briefly, just long enough to show DNA 40, then off again. Tried again and it flashed DNA 40 for a second, then off, then nothing after that.
Then I just shook it about a bit, not too violently. That did nothing. Then I tapped it firmly in various places near the top screen. That got it to turn on, and it stayed on until I vaped, at which point it turned off (no vapour.)
I tapped it again, more firmly, on the back side, underneath the screen. Then it turned on, stayed on, and vaped. I've taken a couple of vapes since then, still working. (Of course I'm holding it very tentatively!)
This is where I tapped it when it started vaping again:
Argh, so now a dilemma. Do I take it apart and try and fix it?? I do have a soldering iron. I do have solder, and some separate flux. I have used it.. once. It was a bit messy. I could practice first. If I take it apart and screw it all up, and they want this one back, I'm screwed. If I fix it, I have a working device much quicker! And I'll feel like a champion!
Any thoughts on how easy this might be to fix? Any thoughts on whether I can open it up without risking major damage, to get a better assessment? Any thoughts on whether my fix could be good enough for TC etc to still work (I know that probably depends on what exactly is broken, but battery connection is currently looking most likely?) Any thoughts on anything??
Bloke,
I didn't even read all your post when I got to the part about the soldering iron... Well don't do it at least contact 3F or whomever you purchased from and see what they can do for you.
Once you open it up and take a soldering iron to it you will be on your own.
If it's any help for diagnosis, it seems that there's four possible things it will do at any one time:
- Won't turn on at all
- Turns on, then quickly off again before I can vape; might turn back on again or not
- Turns on, stays on, but when I vape no vapour comes out (but doesn't restart, otherwise see no. 2)
- Turns on, stays on, vapes
Contact 3fvape first, if possible make a short video of what it's doing or in this case not doing.
If they say hey sorry no problem we'll send you a replacement and you can keep that one.
I'd heat up the soldering iron and get at it on repairing that one and then have 2.
Otherwise have them give you a postage paid RMA
If they say hey sorry no problem we'll send you a replacement and you can keep that one.
I'd heat up the soldering iron and get at it on repairing that one and then have 2.
Otherwise have them give you a postage paid RMA
I still stand on my power connection issue theory.
Yes temporarily you can force ot to get good enough connection to boot up, but when you put a load on it becomes more resistance than the connection can handle thus shutting down.
Willie,
I agree with both this and the post just prior BUT first Bloke needs to contact 3F.
Anyone that needs to practice with a soldering iron doesn't need to attempt a fix for a brand new item.
@ Bloke, even if 3F gives you the cold shoulder and I am very sure they won't you can still go to your credit card people and I am sure they will make it good. besides as soon as 3F finds out you complained to your Card people they will bend over backwards to get you a new one. Remember if they get black-listed by the card people they are in deep do-do i.e. No card access equals no sales.
Yeah don't worry I will definitely contact 3F, I'm going to make a video tonight and send it to them such it's there by the time they get in tomorrow morning (7 hours ahead.)
OK, great, thank you. So that would explain why it will sometimes turn on but then not vape? That's what was confusing me - the other three experiences can be easily explained by a loose connection, either not connected (won't turn on, or turns off when already on) or connected and fully working. What I couldn't understand is the partial operation - where it stays on, but won't vape.
So you think that it can be the case that a connection is good enough for the low power needed to run the chip, but can't supply the higher power needed to fire the coil?
OK, great, thank you. So that would explain why it will sometimes turn on but then not vape? That's what was confusing me - the other three experiences can be easily explained by a loose connection, either not connected (won't turn on, or turns off when already on) or connected and fully working. What I couldn't understand is the partial operation - where it stays on, but won't vape.
So you think that it can be the case that a connection is good enough for the low power needed to run the chip, but can't supply the higher power needed to fire the coil?
Bingo
But I wouldn't rule out a flaky chip either although the kx-40D so far has proven to be quite stable.
If you think about it, it's traveled how many thousands of miles, and was probably rough handled every inch of the way which most likely jared something loose
I would never suggest anyone attempting to repair or re-solder a device unless you are comfortable doing so, which YOU most certainly seem you are not...? Needing soldering iron practice kind of seals the deal to me...
I wholeheartedly agree with Holman, we've all been there, but sometimes it's as simple as "it's broken" and nothing more complicated.
I wholeheartedly agree with Holman, we've all been there, but sometimes it's as simple as "it's broken" and nothing more complicated.
My wife does all the gambling (a lot), me I won't even buy a scratcher, but if I were a gambling man I'd bet my money on the ground screw being loose. Still the warranty being voided needs to be considered before looking into that.
I would never suggest anyone attempting to repair or re-solder a device unless you are comfortable doing so, which YOU most certainly seem you are not...? Needing soldering iron practice kind of seals the deal to me...
I wholeheartedly agree with Holman, we've all been there, but sometimes it's as simple as "it's broken" and nothing more complicated.
I'm definitely going to contact 3F first. I might get lucky and they send out a new one without asking me to return this one, in which case I'll know I have nothing to lose by opening this one.
I'm confident that I can re-solder a broken connection. Might take a few goes, and a few clean ups, but once I set my mind to something I don't give up easily.
My biggest concern would be whether that connection plays any part in the TC system and therefore whether I run the risk of increasing resistance and affecting TC. But if it's the connection to the batteries, I assume that's less likely.
My wife does all the gambling (a lot), me I won't even buy a scratcher, but if I were a gambling man I'd bet my money on the ground screw being loose. Still the warranty being voided needs to be considered before looking into that.
It would be nice if it was something simple! So is that literally just a screw to be tightened, or is it a soldered connection?
In any case I'm not going to take it apart before I've heard from 3F, but it'd be nice to think it was something easily fixable if I do get a chance!
dwcraig1, that was my exact thoughts and was going to post same if no one else had by the time I got to the newest post.
@ TheBloke, I would be hesitant to tear into it just yet. I would certainly contact 3f, send them the video and see what they suggest. If all things align in your favor, you might just end up w/an easily fixable back-up to the new flask 3f sends you as a replacement. Now, how much longer 3f is going to comp everyone the "bad" flask along w/sending them a new one is beyond me.
@ TheBloke, I would be hesitant to tear into it just yet. I would certainly contact 3f, send them the video and see what they suggest. If all things align in your favor, you might just end up w/an easily fixable back-up to the new flask 3f sends you as a replacement. Now, how much longer 3f is going to comp everyone the "bad" flask along w/sending them a new one is beyond me.
I would never suggest anyone attempting to repair or re-solder a device unless you are comfortable doing so, which YOU most certainly seem you are not...? Needing soldering iron practice kind of seals the deal to me...
I wholeheartedly agree with Holman, we've all been there, but sometimes it's as simple as "it's broken" and nothing more complicated.
Ok apparently there is some reading comprehension issues going on here.
I don't recall anyone saying you need to go do this, or that with a soldering iron.
Now admittedly it does sound suggestive but I did say If it were me
Again perhaps suggestive but I did say I'd heat up the soldering iron and get at it on repairing that one and then have 2
Meaning me, myself as to what I would do.
Now common sense the first thing I would do is contact 3fvape, they have a good track record of making things right, however if they want the faulty one back they should rush ship a replacement along with a postage paid RMA, in the past they have told people to keep it because it ain't worth the cost of return shipping.
If that be the case, 3fvape ships out a replacement and not want the other back, then what ever does he have to loose by trying, just might mess around and learn something in the process.
Personally myself knowing it's most likely a 5min fix, and knowing that I have the skill to do it, instead of waiting 3 to 4 more weeks I'd repair it.
My bet too!My wife does all the gambling (a lot), me I won't even buy a scratcher, but if I were a gambling man I'd bet my money on the ground screw being loose. Still the warranty being voided needs to be considered before looking into that.
So can you guys tell me more about this ground screw? Is it what it sounds like, literally a screw that holds the ground wire and can be tightened?
Or will it require soldering?
I'm making the video for 3F now as it's nearly 8am in China. I'll get it over to them in the next couple of hours, go to bed, and hopefully wake up to a response.
Or will it require soldering?
I'm making the video for 3F now as it's nearly 8am in China. I'll get it over to them in the next couple of hours, go to bed, and hopefully wake up to a response.
I would never suggest anyone attempting to repair or re-solder a device unless you are comfortable doing so, which YOU most certainly seem you are not...? Needing soldering iron practice kind of seals the deal to me...
I wholeheartedly agree with Holman, we've all been there, but sometimes it's as simple as "it's broken" and nothing more complicated.
Wish I had read this before I tried soldering my V2 flask, you saw how good I was at that
Ya the dna 40 chip may be encrypted but so is your banks network....they get hacked all the time. Too many failures with the authentic dna 40 chip anyways. Sx350j seems to be the future.
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