Not the greatest way of grounding anything - nothing beats an actual connection.
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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Sorry I didn't get a chance to get you proper internal photos
All I can say is with regard to the 510 - pulling up the top plate, I could see a sandwich of multiple layered connections:
Outer SS 510
--- Top Plate ---
Brass 510 nut
A silverish braided cable, coming from the board - not like the cables shown in your pictures; bare wire, multi-strand
What appeared to be a circular, silver-coloured washer or nut, connecting down into the battery area (out of sight)
I call this a sandwich because it was one item on top of the other, with the brass 510 nut and the "circular washer" connected to top and bottom respectively of that braided cable such as to create a "sandwich", with the cable as the "filler" between the two nuts/washers.
Does that make any sense?
Willie is getting his Waidea on Monday and I'm sure he'll be dismantling it
Re the ground screw, all I can say is that if the ground screw/wire should be visible with the top panel off, then it wasn't there. I figured when I was looking at it that it must be below the plastic sled/insert that holds the screen, which I didn't ever remove as my problems resolved with just the top panel off.
So this brings with it some questions. This is assuming the Waidea Time VF clone is done the same way.
Is the case on the Waidea Time anodized and is the underside of the top plate anodized? Does anodized conduct electricity? Does it need to be cleaned of the areas where these parts contact each other?
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Anodized aluminum won't conduct anything but by the sounds of Blokes post, the Waidea is ground to the body using a washer.
Actually yeah now I think about it, the washer on the bottom of the sandwich did not seem to have any kind of further connection below it. So that must be the grounding.
I was heavily restricted in moving anything because the cable to the board was incredibly short, however the washer did seem to move freely along with the 510 nut and the cable, not restricted further with any other kind of wire that I could identify.
I was heavily restricted in moving anything because the cable to the board was incredibly short, however the washer did seem to move freely along with the 510 nut and the cable, not restricted further with any other kind of wire that I could identify.
It never dawned on me to mount the board with the on-board fire button facing away from the up and down buttons. My fire button, if i hadn't removed it, would face the 510.That how Kx did it, Aside from the screen placement that would have a whole lot easier as the up/down buttons are a bit in the way
It sounds like the nut that holds the washer onto the 510 is loose.
Here's mine:
The large brass nut must be tight. In your case it does double duty, it provides the ground for the 510 during firing and the connection to the batteries negative.
Just don't expect your 510 to look just like mine. LOL
I want to add that if the nut holding the washer were loose on mine the 510 would be visibly loose on the outside of the mod, probably would spin when changing atties.
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I just took the panel off again and had a nother look. I think it's OK, as far as I can tell anyway. The brass nut is definitely tight and there's no external problems on the 510.
The wire and the washer also seem firm. The washer moves 100% in line with the rest of the 'sandwich'. Actually it does appear to have something below it, not a wire, I can't quite make it out. Edit: yes what I'm seeing must be that same.. "tube with stick" type thing you have below yours, except my 'tube' isn't brass, it appears silver-coloured
Here's the best picture I can get of the sandwich:
Incidentally, while I had the panel off I took another quick go at removing the plastic shed thing, and this time I got it to move a fraction. I could certainly get it out if I wanted to, but then I suddenly thought - what happens to the buttons?
How can I pull that sled out with the fire button connecting through the case into it? Ditto the up/down buttons.
I don't plan to do it any time soon, I'm just wondering as to the correct procedure. Will it move enough such that buttons become loose and can be pulled away from the outside?
How can I pull that sled out with the fire button connecting through the case into it? Ditto the up/down buttons.
I don't plan to do it any time soon, I'm just wondering as to the correct procedure. Will it move enough such that buttons become loose and can be pulled away from the outside?
You would hold the mod with the buttons outsides pointing downward.
I just took the panel off again and had a nother look. I think it's OK, as far as I can tell anyway. The brass nut is definitely tight and there's no external problems on the 510.
The wire and the washer also seem firm. The washer moves 100% in line with the rest of the 'sandwich'. Actually it does appear to have something below it, not a wire, I can't quite make it out. Edit: yes what I'm seeing must be that same.. "tube with stick" type thing you have below yours, except my 'tube' isn't brass, it appears silver-coloured
Here's the best picture I can get of the sandwich:
It appears that the nut that's visible secures the 510 to the top plate. Below that is a cable, there must be another nut below the part that's under the cable .
Mine has the tube on the positive part of the 510 because I made it a bottom feeder.
Question about battery life:
My VF just ran out, meaning I got 22 real hours out of 2 x Samsung 25R @ 5000mah total. About 14 vaping hours. Christ, I vape a lot!
When I took the Sammys out and put them on the charger, both read 3.3V, but 30 seconds later one went up to 3.4V while the other took about 2 minutes to read 3.4V. They're continuing to generally show 0.1V apart as they charge - I'm not quite sure why one has slightly more charge than the other, as I don't recall firing the mod with only one battery in. (I did do several single battery tests to confirm dual-battery function, but only as far as confirming the screen remained on.)
So this is normal, right? For it to say Weak Battery @ 3.3V? And for me to be able to drain from 4.2V to 3.3V in 14 vaping hours? I know that last question is realy entirely based on my vaping habits.
I just want to double-check that it's not possible for a mod to drain batteries faster than it should. Someone yesterday or the day before said something like "battery usage is entirely a factor of ohms law" - i.e. any two mods should drain at the same rate assuming the same watts fired into the same resistances. I just want to confirm again that that's right?
My benchmark for battery is my iStick 50W, where its internal 4400mah battery usually lasted me 30 real hours, which is more like 22 vaping hours. However I do think I was tending to vape at a lower wattage, more like 25W where I've used the VF at 30 - 35W.
Also, maybe the iStick's fixed internal battery has different characteristics compared to 2 x 18650, and can be drained further?
If I consult lygate's Battery Comparator, I see that 3.3V on the Samsung 25Rs indicated I got around 2000mah out of them, 4000mah total. Maybe the iStick is capable of getting nearly all of the 4400mah out of its battery, if it's able to drain it further than 3.3V? Or maybe if the wattages I fired on the iStick would allow firing at lower volts, where the higher watts I've been using on the VF will not.
I really need to learn a bit more about batteries and regulated mods and how this all works exactly! I still don't quite understand why it can't use more of the capacity of the battery; if it can boost 4.2V batteries up to a maximum of 8V of vaping power, why can't it use the batteries down to their minimum 2.8V and boost that to the 4.5V I need for my current fire: 35W into 0.6 ohms?
Anyway I'm fairly confident that what I'm seeing from the VF is to be expected?
My VF just ran out, meaning I got 22 real hours out of 2 x Samsung 25R @ 5000mah total. About 14 vaping hours. Christ, I vape a lot!
When I took the Sammys out and put them on the charger, both read 3.3V, but 30 seconds later one went up to 3.4V while the other took about 2 minutes to read 3.4V. They're continuing to generally show 0.1V apart as they charge - I'm not quite sure why one has slightly more charge than the other, as I don't recall firing the mod with only one battery in. (I did do several single battery tests to confirm dual-battery function, but only as far as confirming the screen remained on.)
So this is normal, right? For it to say Weak Battery @ 3.3V? And for me to be able to drain from 4.2V to 3.3V in 14 vaping hours? I know that last question is realy entirely based on my vaping habits.
I just want to double-check that it's not possible for a mod to drain batteries faster than it should. Someone yesterday or the day before said something like "battery usage is entirely a factor of ohms law" - i.e. any two mods should drain at the same rate assuming the same watts fired into the same resistances. I just want to confirm again that that's right?
My benchmark for battery is my iStick 50W, where its internal 4400mah battery usually lasted me 30 real hours, which is more like 22 vaping hours. However I do think I was tending to vape at a lower wattage, more like 25W where I've used the VF at 30 - 35W.
Also, maybe the iStick's fixed internal battery has different characteristics compared to 2 x 18650, and can be drained further?
If I consult lygate's Battery Comparator, I see that 3.3V on the Samsung 25Rs indicated I got around 2000mah out of them, 4000mah total. Maybe the iStick is capable of getting nearly all of the 4400mah out of its battery, if it's able to drain it further than 3.3V? Or maybe if the wattages I fired on the iStick would allow firing at lower volts, where the higher watts I've been using on the VF will not.
I really need to learn a bit more about batteries and regulated mods and how this all works exactly! I still don't quite understand why it can't use more of the capacity of the battery; if it can boost 4.2V batteries up to a maximum of 8V of vaping power, why can't it use the batteries down to their minimum 2.8V and boost that to the 4.5V I need for my current fire: 35W into 0.6 ohms?
Anyway I'm fairly confident that what I'm seeing from the VF is to be expected?
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^^^ it is a lot better for the (long) life of the battery to not be discharged below 3.2 volts on a regular basis. Watts is watts. Lower resistance requires more amps for the same wattage. The mod uses a tiny bit of battery when it just sits there (tiny). I see nothing in your post to indicate anything unusual.
Besides it probably never left your hand during those 14 hours.
Besides it probably never left your hand during those 14 hours.
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When I ordered my Waidea VF clone from Focal I didn't quite make the deadline for the April 10th batch, April 23rd for mine, I'll learn to read better some day.
Great, thanks!
You're not wrong
I even fell asleep reclined in the chair with it resting on my chest. Woke up, had a few vapes, went back to sleep
Thinking about the 3.2v, that's something I'd really like to be able to choose myself. I'd like to see it in the settings menu of future mods.
It depends of course on the difference in lifetime, if it would be measured in weeks then that's different. But the lygate guy, who tests batteries in the context of flashlights, always tests them right down as far as 2.5v and states them as usable down to 2.8v.
If for example it would last years down to 3.2 but 6 months down to 2.8, I might use the latter. They're not expensive, I'd rather get another few hours more from each full charge. From the graphs it seems that firing to 2.8v would increase usable capacity by 20 pct, which is not to be sniffed at.
Sent by fondling my slab.
It depends of course on the difference in lifetime, if it would be measured in weeks then that's different. But the lygate guy, who tests batteries in the context of flashlights, always tests them right down as far as 2.5v and states them as usable down to 2.8v.
If for example it would last years down to 3.2 but 6 months down to 2.8, I might use the latter. They're not expensive, I'd rather get another few hours more from each full charge. From the graphs it seems that firing to 2.8v would increase usable capacity by 20 pct, which is not to be sniffed at.
Sent by fondling my slab.
^^^^ I have one mod that (the cut off) can be adjusted on... Taifun "the eye"
I made the cut off but my VaporFlask clone from FC didn't ship April 10 - hopefully they're all being packed and processed and it will ship out today or Monday (same with my ipv4 preorder from VapeNW).
-Treeburner
Actually I'm looking forward to the VF moreso than the ipv4 - if it is as good as everyone seems to think I'll probably order another in black.
On a related note, I emailed FC asking about the ship date and got a reply back from Eleven very quickly confirming my order made the April 6 cutoff, should ship by Monday!
-Treeburner
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