Ok...lol. Myepack did have them, Thats where I first saw them I think...I need a vacation...Good news about the new atlantis coils though!
Also just saw the new Vision MK subtank - another sub-ohmer for £19.99! This is getting silly now...
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
- Thread starter Croak
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Ok...lol. Myepack did have them, Thats where I first saw them I think...I need a vacation...Good news about the new atlantis coils though!
Also just saw the new Vision MK subtank - another sub-ohmer for £19.99! This is getting silly now...
Yup!
Or forget all those and get an Aqua V2 (clone), quite possible the only tank a rebuilder will ever need! It is a thing of joy.
4ml capacity; single/dual coil; single 3mm airflow (OK if you want to blow huge clouds you might not want this); you can change the build without emptying the tank; you can refill the tank without tools, and with zero chance of leaks; both PMMA and stainless steel tank sections; adjustable 510 (works great on the VF); hybrid threading if you have a suitable mod; decent build deck; oh, and it's an RDA as well!
The only reason I still use my Lemo, Atlantis, ST mini, VCT, GCT etc is that I only own two Aqua v2s not 8!
The 1:1 Tobeco clone is £20 in the UK from Bon go Vapes (a great, new vendor - mangled link below!), and about $20-$23 from China.
Review of the Aqua v2 from Nicole @ Vaping Cheap.
PS. Damn the auto censorship here can be ridiculous. I hope there's no members here who live in Scun thorpe! And we can't use URL shorteners, either.
OK go to this URL removing the space:
www.bon govapes.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=61
Damn I'm going to have to contact the owner of Bon go and tell him he needs a second URL else he's never going to be able to be mentioned here.
Or forget all those and get an Aqua V2 (clone), quite possible the only tank a rebuilder will ever need! It is a thing of joy.
4ml capacity; single/dual coil; single 3mm airflow (OK if you want to blow huge clouds you might not want this); you can change the build without emptying the tank; you can refill the tank without tools, and with zero chance of leaks; both PMMA and stainless steel tank sections; adjustable 510 (works great on the VF); hybrid threading if you have a suitable mod; decent build deck; oh, and it's an RDA as well!
The only reason I still use my Lemo, Atlantis, ST mini, VCT, GCT etc is that I only own two Aqua v2s not 8!
The 1:1 Tobeco clone is £20 in the UK from Bon go Vapes (a great, new vendor - mangled link below!), and about $20-$23 from China.
Review of the Aqua v2 from Nicole @ Vaping Cheap.
PS. Damn the auto censorship here can be ridiculous. I hope there's no members here who live in Scun thorpe! And we can't use URL shorteners, either.
OK go to this URL removing the space:
www.bon govapes.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=61
Damn I'm going to have to contact the owner of Bon go and tell him he needs a second URL else he's never going to be able to be mentioned here.
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The Aqua v2 is great, though I'm quite enthralled by the Fogger v5 (but it's a pita to build) and the subtank (nano, because I just got it).
I've had the opposite experience. My Subtank mini with a stock nickel head, or a rebuilt nickel head, is rock solid. When I try to use the RBA section though, I often get connection issues. It will spontaneously say "atomizer open", or check atomizer depending on whether or not I'm using my authentic or clone *NA40.
Croak is right about the 25mm Subtank though. You simply cannot use it consistently with TC devices. That floating center pin on it makes for less than stellar connections.
Can you share your thoughts about what might be causing this so I may know what to look for should I experience the same issue in the future?
The 510 pin in the Subtank 25mm and Mini floats. When you screw the RBA base down, it doesn't push the 510 pin down as far as it does with the slightly longer OCC heads, so you can get connection issues. Partial solution is to back the positive post out of the RBA a bit to force the 510 down further, but that creates its own set of problems. Another work around is to use the beauty ring supplied with the 25mm Subtank, which makes better contact with the Subtank's center pin than most mods can.
That same floating pin (spring loaded on the 25mm, sliding in an insulator on the Mini) can cause resistance fluctuations as well, with both the RBA and OCC heads, not usually a huge problem on Kanthal, but enough to play hell with nickel for some folks. And there seems to be quite a bit of variance from Subtank to Subtank, some work better than others.
That same floating pin (spring loaded on the 25mm, sliding in an insulator on the Mini) can cause resistance fluctuations as well, with both the RBA and OCC heads, not usually a huge problem on Kanthal, but enough to play hell with nickel for some folks. And there seems to be quite a bit of variance from Subtank to Subtank, some work better than others.
Rebuilding the OCC coil heads could be an option, then?
I know it was mentioned that the resulting longer leg leads also aren't ideal, but sounds like that'd be preferable to an unsteady 510 connection?
The Kanger heads are simple to rebuild, and as a bonus for the original 25mm Subtank (not the new Plus) it gives you more tank capacity than using the RBA, which takes up more space in the tank than a coil head does.
I know it was mentioned that the resulting longer leg leads also aren't ideal, but sounds like that'd be preferable to an unsteady 510 connection?
The Kanger heads are simple to rebuild, and as a bonus for the original 25mm Subtank (not the new Plus) it gives you more tank capacity than using the RBA, which takes up more space in the tank than a coil head does.
I usually 100% agree with you Croak, but this time I don't. The pin in the ST Mini will slide in and out, and the RBA section can have issues reaching it properly after using an OCC head on it. But as soon as you screw it down onto any mod that doesn't have a spring loaded center pin, it should push in and make contact with no issues.
However, if your mod (like the vaporshark) has a floating center pin, it's possible that the upward pressure from the pin isn't enough to ensure good contact. I can agree with you there. But, that doesn't explain any problems that I have with it on a Waidea flask. The fixed center pin should push that pin up and force good contact every time.
To answer TPat's question, the only thing I can think of is that the positive post on my RBA section is flawed, and a bit short. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes, I can leave the base on my flask, unscrew the tank, fill it, screw the tank back in, and it stops working. Every time that I have problems with it, I screw it only my ohm meter and it reads fine.
I will say I've not had nearly as many problems out of it on my flask and my shark. The majority of the issue with the shark, since it has a floating center pin, are probably what Croak described.
P.S. Remember that I'm not having issues with fluctuating resistances at all. It either connects and works, or says "Atomizer Open"/"Check Atomizer". I've had no issues with either the OCC heads, or the RBA section regarding unstable resistance. And mine works %100 of the time with OCC heads, nickel or kanthal, on all my regulated devices.
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Just an update.
My Waida VF clone did arrive today, surprisingly so did 2 of my Lemo 2.
Give me a few days of tinkering, and testing and I'll do a disassembly and post pictures.
So far the Waida seems to be working as it should.
I'm really liking the fixed 510 over the Kangxin adjustable.
My Waida VF clone did arrive today, surprisingly so did 2 of my Lemo 2.
Give me a few days of tinkering, and testing and I'll do a disassembly and post pictures.
So far the Waida seems to be working as it should.
I'm really liking the fixed 510 over the Kangxin adjustable.
Other things I like much better
larger more comfortable buttons
Battery caps do line up perfectly
Some have posted that the resistance is off, but I see no evidence of that at all, reads exactly the same resistance as on all my authentic DNA40's and Kangxin clone.
3-Lemo's....2-Lemo drops.... 2-Lemo 2...and Delta 2 were tested all with Ni200 have not tested with kanthal yet. those having Ni200 issues are probably using janky Kanger or Atlantis coils builds, notorious for Ni200 issues.
Charging LED instead of battery indicator charge
Overall build quality is pretty dang close to my authentic
Been vaping at 35w 430° have not hit tp
I did do a dry burn test using the Magma and then tested TP buy vaping it dry so TP does work right on par with the authentic and kangxin.
larger more comfortable buttons
Battery caps do line up perfectly
Some have posted that the resistance is off, but I see no evidence of that at all, reads exactly the same resistance as on all my authentic DNA40's and Kangxin clone.
3-Lemo's....2-Lemo drops.... 2-Lemo 2...and Delta 2 were tested all with Ni200 have not tested with kanthal yet. those having Ni200 issues are probably using janky Kanger or Atlantis coils builds, notorious for Ni200 issues.
Charging LED instead of battery indicator charge
Overall build quality is pretty dang close to my authentic
Been vaping at 35w 430° have not hit tp
I did do a dry burn test using the Magma and then tested TP buy vaping it dry so TP does work right on par with the authentic and kangxin.
Rushed home just to check out the Waidea & I gotta give them credit. They did a great job on it! The finish is spot on and the body appears to be milled & not cast. Agree with Willie that the Buttons are way better than on kangin
Damped's extreme close-up of the battery tube had really thrown me off because I had expected to see the positive pin on a flat board mounted on the Sled but it did not appear that way to me when I looked at the pic, but now that I have the unit in my hand it is exactly the way I thought it would have been. The lighting reflection in the pic had thrown me off, but he did a great job nonetheless because that was an impossible pic to take.
I haven't timed delays or anything but from general use, I'm thinking it provides a warmer, more consistent vape than kangxin at same temp setting & is definitely not hitting TP as quickly.
Subtank is definitely sitting high on the 510, but it is working very well. the flask did read the resistance at 0.16 instead of 0.15 and has not refined down to 0.15 like my kangxin would have by now, but that doesn't concern me. still playing with it so haven't let it cool down to room temp to do a new coil read & see if it gets it right then.
Works on a single battery from each tube & caps definitely line up, but do protrude from flush slightly.
So far, I'm very pleased!
Damped's extreme close-up of the battery tube had really thrown me off because I had expected to see the positive pin on a flat board mounted on the Sled but it did not appear that way to me when I looked at the pic, but now that I have the unit in my hand it is exactly the way I thought it would have been. The lighting reflection in the pic had thrown me off, but he did a great job nonetheless because that was an impossible pic to take.
I haven't timed delays or anything but from general use, I'm thinking it provides a warmer, more consistent vape than kangxin at same temp setting & is definitely not hitting TP as quickly.
Subtank is definitely sitting high on the 510, but it is working very well. the flask did read the resistance at 0.16 instead of 0.15 and has not refined down to 0.15 like my kangxin would have by now, but that doesn't concern me. still playing with it so haven't let it cool down to room temp to do a new coil read & see if it gets it right then.
Works on a single battery from each tube & caps definitely line up, but do protrude from flush slightly.
So far, I'm very pleased!
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@Tpat: I'd love to see some close up pictures, especially of the finish. I have a black one, but its like coated... kind of slippery in the hand so to speak.
Not sure if you can tell... This is a picture from my note 4 phone... The best I can do
My first real post, been lurking on and off since the days when the Silver Bullet and the Chuck were the must have toys, Now I have something worth posting.. Just received my Waidea today from Focal, It was ordered 4/18, and guess what??? the pin is spring loaded!! Working like a champ, fit and finish are spot on, vaping a Very Nice Turkish Net @ 450F NI build @.09 ohm 28ga 5 wraps evenly spaced on my Kanger Sub Mini.. Have another one coming from the US warehouse I bought during the Easter sale, it was a race to see which arrived first.. Will see if I can get a Pic, posted if I am allowed... If someone already posted this, sorry for being redundant..
RUG, very glad you're enjoying your mod!
But if you have a spring loaded pin it's not the Waidea, it's a Kangxin. You'll probably find that your battery caps don't line up exactly equal, ie when fully tightened the groove in the caps is not pointing exactly the same in both caps.
There's a few other small external physical differences as well, and the internals look a fair bit different.
And when you turn the device on, it will say KX-DNA 40 rather than just DNA 40.
The Kangxin is a perfectly good device, just not a 1:1 clone as the Waidea is.
Both do great Temp Control which is the most important thing.
Glad you're enjoying it!
Sent by fondling my slab.
But if you have a spring loaded pin it's not the Waidea, it's a Kangxin. You'll probably find that your battery caps don't line up exactly equal, ie when fully tightened the groove in the caps is not pointing exactly the same in both caps.
There's a few other small external physical differences as well, and the internals look a fair bit different.
And when you turn the device on, it will say KX-DNA 40 rather than just DNA 40.
The Kangxin is a perfectly good device, just not a 1:1 clone as the Waidea is.
Both do great Temp Control which is the most important thing.
Glad you're enjoying it!
Sent by fondling my slab.
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