Probably more than two - but revisions, not chips. See my discussions with dwcraig and TPat from last night / early hours this morning
Basically we now think that there's always been just one chip, used by Kangxin, Waidea, and also Heatvape for their Intruder.
Each new batch of mods has slight differences to the previous batch, but those same differences are being seen across brand.
So for example an earlier revision showed "---" for the resistance with no atty, the later ones show 0.00. All the Kangxin VFs (that I've seen anyway) show ---, and the earlier Waideas do (e.g. the one in Les' Youtube video) but the newer ones show 0.00. And I think there was some other difference as well, I forget.
A further example: the latest Kangxin we've discussed, the 50W KX-50D, clearly shows 0.00 in the photos, the first Kangxin we've seen with that, and also the first Kangxin released since the newest Waideas have been out. aqua v2
What they all share in common is rotating from 40w - 1W - 40W, and how when you hold down both buttons in locked mode, it usually decrements the temp (it carries on reading the two buttons pressed and translates that into a down command - which the genuine does not.)
At first many of us still thought there were two lines of chips, which is what Waidea themselves claimed, but now - as Croak has said all along! - it really seems that it must be a single line of chips, with each new batch of whatever device getting the latest revision and thus slight changes/enhancements.
Here's a sneak peak under the hood of the Waidea VF clone.
Interestingly enough it appears to have the exact same pin out as the authentic less the onboard buttons.
The second board you see is the charging board with a remote USB connector.
Note the 510 and the way the did the ground ...
Last two pictures show a Fatdaddy v4 spring loaded center pin assembly screwed into the Waidea VF clone 510
I'm going to remove the stationary 510, be the first guinea pig and retrofit the 510 with the guts from a FD v4 spring loaded and let you guys know how it works
Also I plan on fixing that ......ed half ... ground but using a proper ground washer from a FD assembly.
Wish me luck I'm going to put it back together now.
Any ways here's a link to the pics, sorry about the quality I was using my phone camera.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3hbm45kai7oztsh/AACYX1vgHQoj8fUcADaRFBSSa?dl=0
My Kangxin flask shows 0.00 when atty is removed. Also the only real visual defect I've noticed with mine is the atty sits slightly at a angle, I think it's the adjustable 510 pin isn't straight.
My Kangxin shows --- as well with no tank attached. I have only had this one a couple of weeks.ok, mine shows ---
go figure..
From the usa order on the 5th right?mine is suppose to ship Monday!
From the usa order on the 5th right?
Here's my defective Kangxin DNA40 board and charging board.
The top half of the fire button is missing, the on-board up and down buttons are present.
Note the white wire on the top left corner of the DNA board, that came from the charging board with the USB, it supplies 1.5 volts
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Well hopefully you'll get yours first, you deserve it waiting so long for shipment. I ordered from China on the 14th and it shipped on the 16th. I'm expecting mine within a couple of weeks, we shall see.yes SIR my Waidea, at least i hope so!
I have NO CLUE who makes the flask I have. I think infinite? It's been (slightly) different from every picture posted here. Mine had a white plastic tray, no shrink wrap, solder grounded to 510 like a fat daddy connector, spring loaded pin, Philips screws in the top plate not hex head, used a common ground for up/down/fire via a switch board that I removed to keep it simple, has a 1amp usb charger (which I left in and works fine)... Lots of little differences.My Kangxin board is a "Rayn V3" as well, but on mine, they completely removed all the surface mount switches.
I have NO CLUE who makes the flask I have. I think infinite? It's been (slightly) different from every picture posted here. Mine had a white plastic tray, no shrink wrap, solder grounded to 510 like a fat daddy connector, spring loaded pin, Philips screws in the top plate not hex head, used a common ground for up/down/fire via a switch board that I removed to keep it simple, has a 1amp usb charger (which I left in and works fine)... Lots of little differences.
I guess whenever my waidea gets here from China I can look inside and compare.
Well hopefully you'll get yours first, you deserve it waiting so long for shipment. I ordered from China on the 14th and it shipped on the 16th. I'm expecting mine within a couple of weeks, we shall see.
Except, you know, some Waidea units do show the wattage constantly, such as mine.
And Ken, lower your wattage, that should help. Most standard 0.1-0.2 ohm builds in the 400-500f range really only need about 20-25w depending on airflow, and that's just during the first part of the draw. After that, they tend to settle down below 20w to maintain your selected temp.
You're asking for double the power it needs, so you get the temp protect message a lot more often (you shouldn't see it at all if you're tuned properly) because it's seeing this huge delta between what you asked for and what it can give you. It flashes that message as a gentle reminder/nag that it's having to cut power by a great deal.