BTW this is my ni200 0.160 coil at 450F after daily use for 7 days (4-6ml)
I vape 87% vg without flavours.
I vape 87% vg without flavours.
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
- Thread starter Croak
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^^^ To check for resistance of the ground, the voltage drop method should be used. With load (atty) attached probe battery cap(negative) with one lead, 510 base (ground) with the other lead. Fire device and read voltage. If there's a problem it will show this way.
Don't worry, of course I am not using Kanthal for TC
(The VF / DNA40 will not allow this anyway, it turns off TC as soon as Kanthal is detected.)I used Kanthal just to check my resistance in general - I wanted to know whether the resistance reading on the screen of my VF was accurate, as I do not (yet) have a separate ohms meter.
But that's interesting that you used a Multimeter to do this test, I wanted to do that too.
So the UNI-T UT61E DMM can measure resistance with two decimal places? Like 0.01, 0.03 etc? In that case I think I will get one - I thought the cheap DMMs could only read resistance down to 100 milliohms (eg 0.01 would read 0.1; 0.55 would read 0.6, etc.)
Could you confirm that you used the Resistance mode of the UNI-T UT61E to measure 0.03 ohms? (I know there are other ways to measure resistance e.g. using Millivolt mode, but that is more complicated.)
If so, that is great, I am going to buy one. I see the UNI-T UT61E £40 on Amazon. You would recommend the UNI-T UT61E as a good one to buy? I would not want to spend much more money than that.
Thanks!
PS. Your English is great!
OK thanks - I am probably going to get a Multimeter for delivery Monday, and will do that test.
BTW this is my ni200 0.160 coil at 450F after daily use for 7 days (4-6ml)
I vape 87% vg without flavours.
So it that 4 - 6 ml a day or total for the week, I'm thinking per day but want to ask anyway.
Is that a contact coil? Wraps look pretty close together.BTW this is my ni200 0.160 coil at 450F after daily use for 7 days (4-6ml)
I vape 87% vg without flavours.
I do see where that is going, you should order the genuine from any number of retailers (vaperev, vapinart, etc) assuming your in the USA. that way you'll get everything perfect (or hopefully) but you should get killer customer service, hassle free (we would assume), and you shouldn't have to deal with quality control and build quality issues those of us who are buying from China mainly for the shell to retrofit our own genuine DNA40 into.
Post some pictures of your genuine so we can compare
Uhh, no. thanks for playing though.
@The Bloke
So the UNI-T UT61E DMM can measure resistance with two decimal places? Like 0.01, 0.03 etc? In that case I think I will get one - I thought the cheap DMMs could only read resistance down to 100 milliohms (eg 0.01 would read 0.1; 0.55 would read 0.6, etc.)
Yes it shows (for example in my case) 0.16 for the coil that I'm using in the image but the supplied test leads got there own resistance of 0.5 but the on the DMM there is a Delta funtion so thats easy.
@The Bloke
Could you confirm that you used the Resistance mode of the UNI-T UT61E to measure 0.03 ohms? (I know there are other ways to measure resistance e.g. using Millivolt mode, but that is more complicated.)
Yes I did
@TheBloke
If so, that is great, I am going to buy one. I see the UNI-T UT61E £40 on Amazon. You would recommend the UNI-T UT61E as a good one to buy? I would not want to spend much more money than that.
I bought mine here in Holland for 77,50 euro UNI-T UT61E Digital Multimeter but you can buy it from china on ebay for around 50$.
There is a different in those versions. The European version is TÜV certified and CE compliant with a improved input protection and also supplied with a usb cable interface vs a rs232 cable interface on the China version, at the moment you don't see many computers with a rs232 interface.
Only important if you want to use the log function of the device to your computer anyway.
I think for the money,the features and accuracy its a good DMM but especially for DC measurement and electronics.
Here is a review https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bz6CYDRl1M8
@dwcraig1
So it that 4 - 6 ml a day or total for the week, I'm thinking per day but want to ask anyway.
You are right 4 - 6 ml a day
@HDMontana
Is that a contact coil? Wraps look pretty close together.
Good notice! First I was also a little bit afraid
for it but it seems I'm so used to make coils such way with kanthal I also made it with ni200, indeed there is only a very little space between the windings.
I used ni200 0.30 11 wraps 2.7 diameter for that coil 0.160 ohm seems to work without any problem next thing i want to try is a coil between 0.3 and 0.5 ohm because like others stated that the accuracy is less harmful in that range. Next week I'm gonna try some Ti coils.
So the UNI-T UT61E DMM can measure resistance with two decimal places? Like 0.01, 0.03 etc? In that case I think I will get one - I thought the cheap DMMs could only read resistance down to 100 milliohms (eg 0.01 would read 0.1; 0.55 would read 0.6, etc.)
Yes it shows (for example in my case) 0.16 for the coil that I'm using in the image but the supplied test leads got there own resistance of 0.5 but the on the DMM there is a Delta funtion so thats easy.
@The Bloke
Could you confirm that you used the Resistance mode of the UNI-T UT61E to measure 0.03 ohms? (I know there are other ways to measure resistance e.g. using Millivolt mode, but that is more complicated.)
Yes I did
@TheBloke
If so, that is great, I am going to buy one. I see the UNI-T UT61E £40 on Amazon. You would recommend the UNI-T UT61E as a good one to buy? I would not want to spend much more money than that.
I bought mine here in Holland for 77,50 euro UNI-T UT61E Digital Multimeter but you can buy it from china on ebay for around 50$.
There is a different in those versions. The European version is TÜV certified and CE compliant with a improved input protection and also supplied with a usb cable interface vs a rs232 cable interface on the China version, at the moment you don't see many computers with a rs232 interface.
Only important if you want to use the log function of the device to your computer anyway.
I think for the money,the features and accuracy its a good DMM but especially for DC measurement and electronics.
Here is a review https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bz6CYDRl1M8
@dwcraig1
So it that 4 - 6 ml a day or total for the week, I'm thinking per day but want to ask anyway.
You are right 4 - 6 ml a day
@HDMontana
Is that a contact coil? Wraps look pretty close together.
Good notice! First I was also a little bit afraid
for it but it seems I'm so used to make coils such way with kanthal I also made it with ni200, indeed there is only a very little space between the windings.I used ni200 0.30 11 wraps 2.7 diameter for that coil 0.160 ohm seems to work without any problem next thing i want to try is a coil between 0.3 and 0.5 ohm because like others stated that the accuracy is less harmful in that range. Next week I'm gonna try some Ti coils.
@dwcraig1
^^^ To check for resistance of the ground, the voltage drop method should be used. With load (atty) attached probe battery cap(negative) with one lead, 510 base (ground) with the other lead. Fire device and read voltage. If there's a problem it will show this way.
I was only checking the resistance between the 510 inside loop-ground cable and the outside negative 510, the reading didn't changed after I tightened it a little bit more.So its not a obvious solution they choose for the ground connection but it works sure a washer is what you expect now days.
^^^ To check for resistance of the ground, the voltage drop method should be used. With load (atty) attached probe battery cap(negative) with one lead, 510 base (ground) with the other lead. Fire device and read voltage. If there's a problem it will show this way.
I was only checking the resistance between the 510 inside loop-ground cable and the outside negative 510, the reading didn't changed after I tightened it a little bit more.So its not a obvious solution they choose for the ground connection but it works sure a washer is what you expect now days.
The benefit of their method is that you can simply unscrew the bottom 510 barrel, freeing up both the positive and negative leads, allowing a clean removal of the top plate. Could have achieved the same thing with a $0.02 brass ring terminal though, and had better conductivity.
Yes, Croak you nailed it.
-CF
Damped, thanks so much! I am definitely going to get that DMM. I can't be bothered with eBay and certainly not China, not this time so I will get it from Amazon. The price is $60 but I can get free delivery on Monday (Amazon Prime).
Sent by fondling my slab.
so I will get it from Amazon. The price is $60 but I can get free delivery on Monday (Amazon Prime). Sent by fondling my slab.
@TheBloke
Damped, thanks so much! I am definitely going to get that DMM. I can't be bothered with eBay and certainly not China, not this time so I will get it from Amazon. The price is $60 but I can get free delivery on Monday (Amazon Prime).
No problem glad I could help you, $60 is a good price, I think you are gonna like this meter, I hope you have read or watched the reviews of it, there are pros but as always also cons.
Have fun with it
Damped, thanks so much! I am definitely going to get that DMM. I can't be bothered with eBay and certainly not China, not this time so I will get it from Amazon. The price is $60 but I can get free delivery on Monday (Amazon Prime).
No problem glad I could help you, $60 is a good price, I think you are gonna like this meter, I hope you have read or watched the reviews of it, there are pros but as always also cons.
Have fun with it
Last two pictures show a Fatdaddy v4 spring loaded center pin assembly screwed into the Waidea VF clone 510
I'm going to remove the stationary 510, be the first guinea pig and retrofit the 510 with the guts from a FD v4 spring loaded and let you guys know how it works
Also I plan on fixing that ......ed half ... ground but using a proper ground washer from a FD assembly.
Willie, Great Job BTW! Look forward to hearing how it works out. I'm sure once that ground is secured, it will be just fine with no connectivity issues at all.
Couple of questions: Did you have to tap an inside thread on that 510 barrel to install the Fatdaddy v4 spring loaded center pin assembly or was it pre threaded? If so what were tap specs? Do you think one should pull the whole sled out to upgrade the 510 to the FD spring loaded center pin assembly in order to get enough room / slack to install it or do you think you could get by with just pulling the top plate? Do you recommend pulling the sled anyway to pull a secondary ground wire to the lower chassis from the open ground pad on the board?
If you had to write a step by step illustrated guide for installing this upgrade for Dummies like me (and many more inexperienced people who have purchased this unit before Waidea institutes a proper production upgrade on that ground) , how would it go?
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That would be awesome if you felt like it, Willie. The more I use the flask the more I realise I'm not going to be completely happy until I have a sprung 510. My Lemo RTA is basically unusable on the VF, even with careful pin adjustments on the atty. Even on attys with consistent resistance readings, I'm never quite sure how far I need to screw down. And I would love to have a second mod with a buttery smooth 510 (my first being the iStick), it just makes day to day usage so much easier and simpler.
I've never done anything like this before but I'm reasonably confident I can manage it with some guidelines to follow.
Besides, I am sure I need to open it up again to check the 510 nut and the ground, so if I'm going to go in to adjust that I'd rather just do the upgrade there and then and hopefully never have to open it again.
Bloke that is a problem with the airflow control causing contact issues on the Lemo. There are fixes posted in Lemo & NI200 threads for it involving adding orings to the AFC. Lemo 2 redesign corrected it.
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Ah really! Even if I don't have the same issue with my other two mods? But I can't do TC builds on the other mods of course. And maybe it's not apparent or as bad when the mod has floating pin?
Now you mention it, I did have the major problem when I tried a Ni200 build on it - it was a bit unreliable on the VF with Kanthal, but I did use it for a tank's worth or so. But when I tried a Ni200 build, it lasted about 10 minutes before it basically stopped firing completely. I guess the issues are identical regardless of wire, but not so noticeable with Kanthal.
I will check those out, thank you!
It's pre-threaded. Since the FDV and Varitube center insulator is Delrin, it sort of "conforms" to a mis-matched thread pitch. And you'd really really want to pull the sled out, tolerances are kind of tight in there, and the 510 ground wire is running very close to the fragile (ask me or DCraig how we know) OLED ribbon cable.
You can sort of do the same thing with the Kangxin flask and its 510, once again a threaded insulator/pin assembly that can be removed from the main body, though it's a bit larger diameter (just a hair) than a Varitube center assembly, but some quality non-conductive thread tape would solve that issue, there's not a lot of mechanical load on that section, even screwing in an atty with a long 510.
Also, f you're having "weak battery" issues and you're not comfortable with the idea of snipping wires and soldering, you could try taking the top plate off, and with the plate off, run those screws into the screw holes several times to make sure the threading is clean and will run down snug, then replace the top plate and torque the screws down as much as you can without risking stripping the heads or being unable to remove them again. Use your fingers to push the plate down firmly whilst tightening the screws, to take out any slack, and do this without the batteries installed.
Why? Because the device is actually sensitive to how tight that top plate is, as the tighter it is, the more contact pressure it puts on the 510 ground wire, and it may be relying on that connection to the main body as a ground path. You want the batteries out for the obvious reason involving live electronics, but also because the batteries actually put upward pressure on the whole assembly.
Doing the top plate snugging can help a great deal and may eliminate the problem for good for some folks.
By the way, if you haven't had a weak battery issue yet, but you get cases of the device firing and the screen brightens, then dims WHILE FIRING (and usually with a big wattage drop), that's a precursor sympton...the weak battery message is coming sooner rather than later.
If you raise set temp on flask above 600 to turn off TP, Lemo should work fine in Kanthal Mode. It is the resistance fluctuation caused by the AFC that is throwing the flask off.
Regarding doing work without removing the sled - this pic I took a while back shows the full amount that I could lift that top plate. The stranded wire between board and 510 is so short as to preclude any further movement; even here, I had to apply a little pressure with my fingers to hold it up enough to take this pic.
So yeah, unless I'm missing some way to free it up any further, it seems to be impossible to do anything without removing the sled except maybe tighten the 510 brass nut immediately below the top plate.
So yeah, unless I'm missing some way to free it up any further, it seems to be impossible to do anything without removing the sled except maybe tighten the 510 brass nut immediately below the top plate.
OK, yeah I had TC off when I had it working. It was still far from perfect even then - resistances jumping around a lot (e.g. 0.7 to 1.1), but I did finally get it settled enough to have a reasonable vape. One problem was that there's very little usable movement in the adjustable pin on the Lemo - less than a half turn between fully tightened, and no connection at all / "Atomizer Open".
Though maybe that's also related to the stupid AFC.
I will read those threads in more detail, but just as a quick initial question: I can't just remove the AFC completely, right? Because I have it fully open anyway, it's doing nothing except getting in the way. Would removing it do anything, or is the o-rings the only way?
I haven't played around enough with Lemo to be an authority, maybe Croak or someone else knows. I just remember reading about the AFC Fix but never got around to it because I didn't have the flask then. I received my subtanks same day as flask never really used Lemo with TP after a somewhat unstable 1st attempt, so I just recoiled w/ kanthal & used it with the Sig 100w & didn't worry about it again. Its on the list, but the list is long.
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