Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[sando7]

Croak, will the top-plate come off completely after taking the screws out, appreciate it if you would give me some details.?...sometimes i'm a slow learner but i get there.


edit: i'm just gonna go ahead and try the top-plate fix, first thing.

 

[Tpat591]

It's that grounding issue again. When I first got mine, it was pre-heating as high as 35w on a 20w setting. Then I popped the cover and it mostly stopped with the preheat, then started firing at low wattages very soon into a hit, and then progressed to the dim display firing, and then weak battery. Sometimes, playing with the USB port or resetting it by unscrewing the battery caps, or running with a single very fresh battery would get it working properly for a few minutes. I suspect all that a reset was doing was cleaning some oxidation/anodizing off the battery caps, and putting some pressure on the top plate making a better ground for a short period. USB charging gave it another ground path.

Once I did that top plate clean-up and torque, it started working great again, preheat on a cold/cool coil, voltage staying in the high teens/twenties while drawing, etc.

So are you saying that the grounding issue confused the chip into unlocking suppressed code imbedded in the chip that changed its behavior to enable an aggressive preheat mode? I hope it happens again because I was liking it.

 

[Croak]

I'm saying the grounding was sufficient for a brief shining period for it to operate properly at full capacity, then it'd oxidize or just become mechanically loose (or both) and back we go to mediocre vaping. Throw a low charge battery in there, see if the vape quality declines, wattages displayed when firing seem lower, etc...that's another indicator of poor ground, because if it's working properly, you shouldn't notice any difference between a 100% battery and a 20% battery.

And it might just be as simple as your wick not performing up to snuff. A good wick feeding and cooling the coil properly can make a dramatic difference compared to a too loose, too tight, starved, or gunked wick. Same temps are reached on the coil in any case, but the quality of the vape is worlds apart, and if the juice isn't feeding properly for whatever reason, it won't even trigger preheat because it's hitting temp quickly.

I should note, unlike an Evolv board, the Waidea version seems to throw pre-heat power AFTER the first second or so, not immediately, and if during that first second it's already close to temp, it can decide to skip the preheat boost.

 

[Croak]

Croak, will the top-plate come off completely after taking the screws out, appreciate it if you would give me some details.?...sometimes i'm a slow learner but i get there.


edit: i'm just gonna go ahead and try the top-plate fix, first thing.

Top plate does not come off completely, it's tethered by the positive and negative leads on the 510 connector. But there should be enough room to get in there and clean it all the way around, just don't tug on it too much for risk of breaking a solder contact, or worse, snagging and breaking the OLED ribbon cable that routes right by the 510 wiring.

 

[Tpat591]

I have only used my Kangxin in TP Mode since getting it a few weeks ago. I run .17 ohm ni200 coils at 450 degrees and 25 watts. I use it in the morning before going to work and in the evenings after I get home. Change batteries every night and they are at about 3.6 on the charger reading. His report of 4 hours is probably pretty close to what I am seeing with mine.

Dual coil atty?

 

[sando7]

Top plate does not come off completely, it's tethered by the positive and negative leads on the 510 connector. But there should be enough room to get in there and clean it all the way around, just don't tug on it too much for risk of breaking a solder contact, or worse, snagging and breaking the OLED ribbon cable that routes right by the 510 wiring.

what would you think about putting some Copper Tape in-between, i have some very thin conductive stuff?

 

[Croak]

I average about 1.5 to 2 hours out of an 18650 in a regulated mod with the way I vape and the atomizers I use, doesn't matter what mod it is. I'm a 10ml+ a day guy, easily, to put it in perspective. Four hours out of a fresh set of LG's in either flask is doing good for me.

 

[Croak]

what would you think about putting some Copper Tape in-between, i have some very thin conductive stuff?

I wouldn't go that far just yet, the copper still has to connect two pieces of aluminum...you'll be getting a better mechanical contact, but that won't matter much if it's already oxidized or anodizing is present on either surface.

First thing I would do is just vape with it, and worry about that top plate if you start seeing symptoms. Lotta folks using the Waidea with no issues. Mine wasn't sanded from the factory, looks like more recent batches might be, and that could be good enough.

EDIT: I should also note that my problems started after I decided to peek inside. Out of the box it was working great. Once I put the top plate back on, I didn't want to over torque the screws, didn't think they needed a lot, and by removing the top plate, I probably increased oxidation by exposing those to surfaces to more air, double whammy.

 

[sando7]

i gottcha, thanks !

 

[HDMontana]

Dual coil atty?

Nope, single 3mm coil. Using a new set of lg4's, lg2's and 25r's.

 

[dwcraig1]

That was my thinking. Besides who stocks nickel that big? You guys know more about this stuff than I do. I'm just throwing stuff out there to see if it might work & since I don't have a V3 shorty here, I can't exactly test it myself.

It was either that or tinning the interior of the barrel threads with solder and re-tapping them.

FT just put up a bunch of Ni200, including 22 and 24 gauge, big enough? What can one do with it that thick?

 

[KenD]

So earlier today I was doing some computer work while USB charging my Black Waidea & I absentmindedly grabbed it, pressed the fire button to take a vape & hear my atty popping away immediately after I pressed the fire button and the vape warmed up immediately into a very satisfying vape. Hit it again & I realize that even though it was set for 20w with my subtank, it was hitting 30w immediately after pressing the fire button, then dropping to 20w for a second or two before hitting temp protection and dropping further. It was like it got confused and suddenly the pre-heat function I've always heard about with legitimate DNA40s was actually operating on the Waidea.

It vaped that way for about 20 minutes and I was really getting into it until I left it idle for too long and let it go to sleep. After that It went back to the way it normally vapes with a 1 second delay from sleep and a slower preheat at applied wattage. It hasn't happened again and I have no idea what occurred to make it get confused and convice the ChiNA40 to act like a Dna40 for a 20 minute stretch of time.

Has anything like this ever happened to anyone else?

Mine has had the preheat thing from the very start.

 

[KurrptSenate]

still haven't shipped mine from Focal's US warehouse

 

[damped]

So earlier today I was doing some computer work while USB charging my Black Waidea & I absentmindedly grabbed it, pressed the fire button to take a vape & hear my atty popping away immediately after I pressed the fire button and the vape warmed up immediately into a very satisfying vape. Hit it again & I realize that even though it was set for 20w with my subtank, it was hitting 30w immediately after pressing the fire button, then dropping to 20w for a second or two before hitting temp protection and dropping further. It was like it got confused and suddenly the pre-heat function I've always heard about with legitimate DNA40s was actually operating on the Waidea.

It vaped that way for about 20 minutes and I was really getting into it until I left it idle for too long and let it go to sleep. After that It went back to the way it normally vapes with a 1 second delay from sleep and a slower preheat at applied wattage. It hasn't happened again and I have no idea what occurred to make it get confused and convice the ChiNA40 to act like a Dna40 for a 20 minute stretch of time.

Has anything like this ever happened to anyone else?

Haven't seen anything like this on mine Waidea, thought preheat was only available on the real thing but nice to hear it should be working also on the china version if we can get it to work lol

 

[GVap3r]

mine is in singapore in transit to Australia! woohoo cant wait! currently have the vaporshark, SX mini M class coming in tomorrow, and VF probably next week!

 

[remyrem]

I read a review made 4-10 that now the Waidea fires immediately from sleep- this right? Or did it always?

mine does this, Ill LOCK it, and then ill leave it for a little bit, hit the fire button and then it will start to fire... It isn't a HUGE deal, but it is kind of worrisome when it is in my pocket and I think I locked it.

 

[ThunderDan]

I read a review made 4-10 that now the Waidea fires immediately from sleep- this right? Or did it always?

I just got mine yesterday, and it doesn't. Out of sleep, press and hold, and see the DNA40 message on screen, that is all. Release, and fire again, and it fires, so still double tap. Still has noticeable fire delay. I wouldn't put any stock into that guy's review.

 

[Treeburner1983]

still haven't shipped mine from Focal's US warehouse

When did you order? I made it just an hour before the April 6 cutoff, and mine shipped Sunday/Monday (label vs. USPS update).

-Treeburner

 

[Hammy75]

I am sending my defective Kangxin back to FT as soon as the RMA number comes in which should be by tomorrow morning. They have taken all their flasks off the site. Should I bother getting another one or just get a credit? I did really like it while it worked.

Does anybody remember if they carried the Waidea and if they did should I try to switch to that? Sounds like it has some problems as well. I am just thinking the sled in it will make it easier to switch to a authentic DNA40 if this board goes bad.

I have built a couple DNA mods already so not worried about the soldering. I would switch my broken one over now but am moving Provinces and all my gear is 14 hours away waiting for the moving truck then it will be in storage for a few months while we search for our new home.

Of course all this depends on if FT can get any flask at all. Thanks guys!

 

[Tpat591]

They had listed a 2 versions of a V4 for about 2 weeks before they pulled all the flasks. Looked like Waidea but did not list them as having temperature control. FT refuses to list manufacturers so anyones guess. I guessed that they were Waideas but Waidea couldn't build them fast enough to adequately supply FT so they just yanked them all.

Get your money back & go with the Focal sale if you want a Waidea. Usa Warehouse ought to catch up to orders sometime soon but it is suggested you talk to Doris to confirm this as info has been messed up since the Honeymoon.