I said before that I had wait for the sockets so ya I'm committed now.
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
- Thread starter Croak
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Apparently mine is more user friendly than the original, perhaps I should contact Vapor Flask. Ah they should just read the forums like everybody else.
The one with the Taifun GT II with it's big air and larger wick slots is providing some serious competition to the other one. These are my main two squeezes but only one squonks.
There's no ni200 in either but it works quite well in the TGT II
A very stellar vape with either but very different..with the same juice.
There's no ni200 in either but it works quite well in the TGT II
A very stellar vape with either but very different..with the same juice.
Last edited:
I'm trying to track down the 4-window cage for my TF GT2. I really like it, other than it's still a bit less airflow than I prefer.
It's doing the same thing a real DNA40 will do, between 0.08 and 0.1, it'll still fire, but it limits power to keep the amp load down (an authentic will never draw more than 16a, presumably the Rayn board follows similar specs).
I had the same issue with the buttons. A Scotchbrite pad to take all the plating off, then a couple applications of Brasso made them look great in their natural brass finish. Ironically, I think they're nickel plated.
-Kangxin Flask with polished brass buttons
Had the same problem recently start on my Waidea flask up/down buttons too (told you I sweat acid!), so yesterday I did the same thing to all three buttons, looks great now. Easier to do when the sled is out and the buttons are free, but you can do it in-situ as well. You don't really need to use a Scotchbrite pad, for that matter, more elbow grease and just Brasso with a cloth will do the job too. If I get bored one day and I have to tear it down again, I might hit the buttons with 2000 grit sandpaper for an even smoother finish, but as you can see, it doesn't suck as it is.
-Waidea Flask with polished brass buttons
It's doing the same thing a real DNA40 will do, between 0.08 and 0.1, it'll still fire, but it limits power to keep the amp load down (an authentic will never draw more than 16a, presumably the Rayn board follows similar specs).
I had the same issue with the buttons. A Scotchbrite pad to take all the plating off, then a couple applications of Brasso made them look great in their natural brass finish. Ironically, I think they're nickel plated.
-Kangxin Flask with polished brass buttons
Had the same problem recently start on my Waidea flask up/down buttons too (told you I sweat acid!), so yesterday I did the same thing to all three buttons, looks great now. Easier to do when the sled is out and the buttons are free, but you can do it in-situ as well. You don't really need to use a Scotchbrite pad, for that matter, more elbow grease and just Brasso with a cloth will do the job too. If I get bored one day and I have to tear it down again, I might hit the buttons with 2000 grit sandpaper for an even smoother finish, but as you can see, it doesn't suck as it is.
-Waidea Flask with polished brass buttons
So in trying to keep up with this Ni200 stuff I have built my first 26 gauge ni200 coil. 11 wraps with 3 mm id, came out to 0.1Ω. In an Odin bf clone.
By golly I think I'm on to something here...LOL
This is my first single coil in the Odin (clown)
By golly I think I'm on to something here...LOL
This is my first single coil in the Odin (clown)
Last edited:
A couple responses without quoting the original (tapatalk doesn't do multi quote or I don't know how to do that)
IPV4
101vapes has them for $75 in stock. Misthub (or is it mysthub?) has them in stock for $77
To name just a couple in stock no waiting places to order.
The flask squonker looks cool. I'm jealous but that much cutting and modding would take me 3 weeks or more, above my skill set.
I'd also like to find the 4 pane taifun gt2 cage... That would look awesome.
I'm a little disappointed that the spring pin from the fdv won't fit into the single slot 510 of the waidea flask.
That is all for now
IPV4
101vapes has them for $75 in stock. Misthub (or is it mysthub?) has them in stock for $77
To name just a couple in stock no waiting places to order.
The flask squonker looks cool. I'm jealous but that much cutting and modding would take me 3 weeks or more, above my skill set.
I'd also like to find the 4 pane taifun gt2 cage... That would look awesome.
I'm a little disappointed that the spring pin from the fdv won't fit into the single slot 510 of the waidea flask.
That is all for now
Three things while I'm sitting in my car waiting for people and pullin' on my flask:
1. Dwcraig you mentioned the lock cancelling when the device sleeps and basically restarts. I guess that's right for the whole device lock, but it does not apply to the 'settings lock' ie hold + and - for five to lock out changing watts.
When you do so it says 'power locked' which I guess they mean as 'power adjustment' but seems badly named to me.
Anyway, I'm glad about this because the 'settings lock' is the one I use a lot, so am glad it persists the sleep.
2. Quick question about scotch bright as it's being discussed - is that any different to high grit sandpaper? I was directed to it regarding a fix for the IPV4 mirror screen and wasn't sure how it compared to 1k, 2k, 4k etc grit sandpaper.
I know what i need for that fix in terms of sandpaper, just be good to know for future. I think maybe scotch bright is not common in the UK, certainly it seemed both rare and expensive when I searched.
3. I'm ordering the silver Infinite flask when I get home. For SCIENCE, people!
Maybe, given the big changes it describes compared to the devices we have and the recent 50w devices we've seen (mini VF, heatvape), it's a whole new chip. Pretty sure it's the first we've seen with C, and although the screen is only a tiny bit bigger, that's still quite a departure to make for an upgrade to the chip we know about (and if they were going to increase an existing board, why so little?)
Fast tech have it as a 7 day item but I thought I read in one of their discussion threads that someone had it dispatch already. Might have misunderstood, need to check again.
So I shall secure the silver and suck it and see!
Sent by fondling my slab.
1. Dwcraig you mentioned the lock cancelling when the device sleeps and basically restarts. I guess that's right for the whole device lock, but it does not apply to the 'settings lock' ie hold + and - for five to lock out changing watts.
When you do so it says 'power locked' which I guess they mean as 'power adjustment' but seems badly named to me.
Anyway, I'm glad about this because the 'settings lock' is the one I use a lot, so am glad it persists the sleep.
2. Quick question about scotch bright as it's being discussed - is that any different to high grit sandpaper? I was directed to it regarding a fix for the IPV4 mirror screen and wasn't sure how it compared to 1k, 2k, 4k etc grit sandpaper.
I know what i need for that fix in terms of sandpaper, just be good to know for future. I think maybe scotch bright is not common in the UK, certainly it seemed both rare and expensive when I searched.
3. I'm ordering the silver Infinite flask when I get home. For SCIENCE, people!
Maybe, given the big changes it describes compared to the devices we have and the recent 50w devices we've seen (mini VF, heatvape), it's a whole new chip. Pretty sure it's the first we've seen with C, and although the screen is only a tiny bit bigger, that's still quite a departure to make for an upgrade to the chip we know about (and if they were going to increase an existing board, why so little?)
Fast tech have it as a 7 day item but I thought I read in one of their discussion threads that someone had it dispatch already. Might have misunderstood, need to check again.
So I shall secure the silver and suck it and see!
Sent by fondling my slab.
Last edited:
^^^^ it's the pressing of the fire button 5 times to lock that doesn't stay locked for long.
Yeah which basically defeats the whole object of having it.
But for me I rarely want to lock the whole device - though admittedly I would want this more than usual on a DNA 40 device with no way to turn it off.
The settings lock could be a partial workaround. Doesnt prevent firing but at least stops two out of three buttons functioning.
I like settings lock a lot because I want to keep mods in my pocket and be able to take them out and vape immediately. I've not found huge problems with fire being pressed accidentally as it usually requires a bit of force. But I have often found settings change unless + and - are locked.
I don't like talking my mod out and taking a vape only to think the batteries must have died, because - got held down until it's at 1w
Sent by fondling my slab.
Order placed for the 50W silver flask.
I was right that someone in the discussion thread said theirs shipped yesterday. But I have no idea what the ETA said at that time - maybe it was then "In stock" and then they sold out and the "7 business days" is now correct.
So worst case I won't get it for at least two weeks. But fingers crossed
I was right that someone in the discussion thread said theirs shipped yesterday. But I have no idea what the ETA said at that time - maybe it was then "In stock" and then they sold out and the "7 business days" is now correct.
So worst case I won't get it for at least two weeks. But fingers crossed
I used one of these, intended for kitchen use, and it's fairly coarse.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Scotchbrite...=1431292848&sr=8-1&keywords=scotchbrite+scour
Should also mention those pads are excellent for DIY brushed aluminium jobs.
But any paint or body shop should stock the pro-grade Scotchbrite pads:
http://www.evergreen.edu/biophysics/technotes/fabric/finish.pdf
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Scotchbrite...=1431292848&sr=8-1&keywords=scotchbrite+scour
Should also mention those pads are excellent for DIY brushed aluminium jobs.
But any paint or body shop should stock the pro-grade Scotchbrite pads:
http://www.evergreen.edu/biophysics/technotes/fabric/finish.pdf
Oh, and getting back to performance dropping off the Waidea flask as batteries run down, and poor battery performance I've pretty much confirmed that it is ground related, not board related.
I took some quality time yesterday while I had it apart to do the buttons and did a proper sanding job on the top plate and mating surface on the chassis, and even more cleaning/scraping of the anodizing on the battery threads, taking special care to get that top lip before the threads cleaned out (where the inside outer edge of the caps seat), and finally installed a proper ring terminal between the 510 nut and the top plate (previously had soldered the stock cable to the nut).
One or all of the things I did made a huge difference. Ran a single 18650 down to "low battery", no bars showing, and 10% charge remaining when popped in my charger...and it vaped fine all the way down. Been running a fresh set of HE4's in it all day today, three tanks (about 12ml) at 480F/25w on a 0.2 coil, and it's still showing 75%, normally by now it'd be below 50% and performance would be dropping.
I took some quality time yesterday while I had it apart to do the buttons and did a proper sanding job on the top plate and mating surface on the chassis, and even more cleaning/scraping of the anodizing on the battery threads, taking special care to get that top lip before the threads cleaned out (where the inside outer edge of the caps seat), and finally installed a proper ring terminal between the 510 nut and the top plate (previously had soldered the stock cable to the nut).
One or all of the things I did made a huge difference. Ran a single 18650 down to "low battery", no bars showing, and 10% charge remaining when popped in my charger...and it vaped fine all the way down. Been running a fresh set of HE4's in it all day today, three tanks (about 12ml) at 480F/25w on a 0.2 coil, and it's still showing 75%, normally by now it'd be below 50% and performance would be dropping.
Since you seem to like collecting Chinese TC mods, seen this one yet?
Geeco 60w Temp Control Zero clone | E-Cigarette Forum
Has a "Nickel Purity" adjustment, which looks interesting, is 60w, and also does F and C.
Yes I really seem to, don't I? I like Chinese take out! Oh dear. Anyway, at the cost of one good meal - of any ethnicity - I really find these hard to resist, I must admit.
And thanks! As I just posted over there, I'm really wanting to know if this has a 0.74" screen and I'm rather thinking it will have, and that that will be more proof of there being a new Chinese DNA 40 clone out there.
Maybe I'm wrong and this is just the latest iteration of the chip in the Kangxin/Waidea flasks, Kangxin Mini VF and Heatvape, but I'm thinking it's far more likely to be a new 'un.
Anyway, exciting times!
OK great, thanks very much for confirming. So although my problems haven't been so bad, I do have the first warning signs at least since I wasn't able to get down to 3.2V on my most recent batteries.
I'll have a go at the top plate sanding and battery threads first of all since that's easiest. When I first got the mod I went at the battery caps of one tube with a toothbrush, as before I did that it wouldn't even read the battery in that tube. But I don't think I did much in the other tube besides a quick wipe around, and even in the first tube I could go at it much harder than I already did.
Just looking at how the battery caps mate up, there's much better contact to be made on the underside of the caps against the chassis than there is via the necessarily imperfect contact via the threading, so I felt it was important to get that rim as clean as possible for grounding reasons. Both of my rims were completely anodized from the factory.
Regarding the 0.74" screen, that one puzzles me a bit. 0.69" and 0.91" are both "standardized" OLED screen sizes, a widely available and cheap commodity product. 0.74" is not a standard.
And yeah, pretty sure the Geeco 60w is from a different source, the Celsius/Fahrenheit feature alone leads me to believe that.
Regarding the 0.74" screen, that one puzzles me a bit. 0.69" and 0.91" are both "standardized" OLED screen sizes, a widely available and cheap commodity product. 0.74" is not a standard.
And yeah, pretty sure the Geeco 60w is from a different source, the Celsius/Fahrenheit feature alone leads me to believe that.
Oh that's very interesting about the standard screen sizes.
But seems like it must be bigger (rather than being a typo/bad spec), because the display has more spacing in it than the KX/Waidea/Heatvape screens:
The gap between the C/Ω symbol and the 50 is about 1.5 digits worth, compared to (at most) 1 digit's worth on the standard ChiDNA40 screen (and on the original DNA 40)
Could be smaller figures? But I'm assuming that's unlikely (if even possible?)
Other noteworthy point is the right-alignment of the temp/Ω figures, matching the real DNA 40 and different to the current Waidea/KXs.
But seems like it must be bigger (rather than being a typo/bad spec), because the display has more spacing in it than the KX/Waidea/Heatvape screens:
The gap between the C/Ω symbol and the 50 is about 1.5 digits worth, compared to (at most) 1 digit's worth on the standard ChiDNA40 screen (and on the original DNA 40)
Could be smaller figures? But I'm assuming that's unlikely (if even possible?)
Other noteworthy point is the right-alignment of the temp/Ω figures, matching the real DNA 40 and different to the current Waidea/KXs.
Croak, how did you sand the top plate and chassis to get the bare metal and better conductivity? What process did you use? Thanks.
1000 grit sandpaper to take it to bare metal all the way around the chassis rim, and across an equal area on the rim of the top plate, plus special care to clean the inner 510 depression. Wipe down. Follow up with 2000 grit sandpaper to insure a smooth mating surface. Wipe down and thoroughly clean with alcohol to remove loose aluminium.
- Status
Similar threads
