Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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Phone Guy

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I agree it's a good price in and of itself, but I have to say I thought it was going to be cheaper. Just on the basis that $32 for a chip available in a $50 mod sounds like a lot to me. But I suppose the demand will be a lot lower on selling chips to end users so they're wanting more margin, and/or there's no competition (yet.)
I would imagine factories like waidea are buying them in much larger quantity and they are most likely made in China so there is no (or little) shipping involved. So that $32 chip for us might be more like $10 or less for them. I'm purely speculating of course. But in the scheme of things, how are they (the cloners) able to make a aluminum milled box, with chip, wires, labor, packaging, etc and sell it at LESS than $65, since we all know focal and fasttech are making profit on it too.

Kind of impressive. Then think how the authentic flask is more than $300.... Not sure if the genuine flask is milled in the USA or outsourced? That would make a huge price difference.

I said this a long time ago, if authentic products were priced with the mindset of low margins and high sales, no body would bother with the clones. But most authentic mods and attys are of the mind set of high margins low sales. I'd rather make $1 profit and sell a million units than make $100 profit and sell a thousand units. But maybe that's why I'm poor. ;)
 

Mooch

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    OK, here we go...
    - The chip-of-many-legs is the MCU.
    - B6284C is a 2A boost regulator.
    - 324N, don't know but could be op-amp or voltage detector.
    - L05A is a 3.0V regulator, probably to the MCU and to power the other chips.
    - KB1492...no idea unless its the main regulator. It's large enough.

    Not sure what the B6284C is doing as its current rating is too low to be the main regulator and it has onboard FETs. Perhaps boosting voltage to the KB1492 so it can drive the MOSFETs harder (reducing heating).

    My guess for the CFT chip...acting as an op-amp to amplify the current sense resistor voltage before passing it go the KB1492. Or perhaps to the MCU, it can also act as the main regulator controller. But then I have no idea at all what KB1492 does.
     
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    AtmizrOpin

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    OK, here we go...
    - The chip-of-many-legs is the MCU.
    - B6284C is a 2A boost regulator.
    - 324N, don't know but could be op-amp or voltage detector.
    - L05A is a 3.0V regulator, probably to the MCU and to power the other chips.
    - KB1492...no idea unless its the main regulator. It's large enough.

    Not sure what the B6284C is doing as its current rating is too low to be the main regulator and it has onboard FETs. Perhaps boosting voltage to the KB1492 so it can drive the MOSFETs harder (reducing heating).

    My guess for the CFT chip...acting as an op-amp to amplify the current sense resistor voltage before passing it go the KB1492. Or perhaps to the MCU, it can also act as the main regulator controller. But then I have no idea at all what KB1492 does.
    I think it's amazing how people manage to reverse engineer things like DNA 40. Yea you could just get all the components and vomit them on a pcb, but programming it to actually work, amazing! Something's telling me it's gonna take more than my high school diploma to understand/achieve that level of intricacy.
     
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    Croak

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    Right behind you...
    I think it's amazing how people manage to reverse engineer things like DNA 40. Yea you could just get all the components and vomit them on a pcb, but programming it to actually work, amazing! Something's telling me it's gonna take more than my high school diploma to understand/achieve that level of intricacy.

    The code for a DNA device is ludicrously simple in the grand scheme of things. With the simplicity of the problems it has to solve, it's falling-off-a-log easy, especially with an ARM processor running the show (enough processing power and RAM that you don't need to be particularly elegant or economical with your code, and it has native DSP support which makes things even easier).

    The board design is the real challenge, not the firmware.
     

    Thorpapa

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    OK, here we go...
    - The chip-of-many-legs is the MCU.
    - B6284C is a 2A boost regulator.
    - 324N, don't know but could be op-amp or voltage detector.
    - L05A is a 3.0V regulator, probably to the MCU and to power the other chips.
    - KB1492...no idea unless its the main regulator. It's large enough.

    Not sure what the B6284C is doing as its current rating is too low to be the main regulator and it has onboard FETs. Perhaps boosting voltage to the KB1492 so it can drive the MOSFETs harder (reducing heating).

    My guess for the CFT chip...acting as an op-amp to amplify the current sense resistor voltage before passing it go the KB1492. Or perhaps to the MCU, it can also act as the main regulator controller. But then I have no idea at all what KB1492 does.


    my friend who is a hungarian reviewer and a mod maker said thid about the CFT:

    The CFT marked component is a programmable reference IC. Depending on the ratio of resistance connected to some of its pins it gives out a specific analogue voltage to the MCU. One resistance is fixed (2L0 - 2 mOhm), the other is a variable (the coil). The coil's resistance will alter the output voltage of the reference IC and that voltage goes into one of the MCU's A/D converter inputs. That's how the resistance is measured.
     

    Mooch

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    my friend who is a hungarian reviewer and a mod maker said thid about the CFT:

    The CFT marked component is a programmable reference IC. Depending on the ratio of resistance connected to some of its pins it gives out a specific analogue voltage to the MCU. One resistance is fixed (2L0 - 2 mOhm), the other is a variable (the coil). The coil's resistance will alter the output voltage of the reference IC and that voltage goes into one of the MCU's A/D converter inputs. That's how the resistance is measured.

    That's great, thank you! Very clever idea.
    Does your friend have the part number or, better yet, the datasheet?

    LOL, so much for some of my long-distance reverse engineering! One of the hazards of not having the board here to scope out. Fun to work through with others though!
     
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    Thorpapa

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    That's great, thank you! Very clever idea.
    Does your friend have the part number or, better yet, the datasheet?

    LOL, so much for some of my long-distance reverse engineering! One of the hazards of not having the board here to scope out. Fun to work through with others though!

    you're welcome :))

    we cant find any usefull photos from this board, until @AtmizrOpin photos him own board :) i ask it about the datasheet :)
     

    Tronk72

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    So my Waidea flask was working fine until last night. It showed a full charge in the screen, but I was getting hardly any vapor. Changed the batteries and it vaped ok for about an hour, but this morning, still showing a full charge, it did it again, even with fresh batteries. So I went ahead and did the cleaning job described in this thread and Voila! now is hitting like a champ. I must say it's awfully tight in there! I almost regretted opening it up. I tried to trap the ground loop between the hex brass nut and the top plate, but then it was impossible to thread the smooth SS nut onto the 510, so I put it back the way it was, but made sure to tighten the SS nut as much as I could against the ground loop. I sanded the underside of the top plate and the matching surface on the body, crossed my fingers, closed it up, and now it seems to be working like it never had. I hope Waidea corrects this in future releases but, for the time being, this corrective measure seems to be essential for the unit to perform as intended. Thanks everybody! I could not have done it without all the useful info in this thread.
     

    AtmizrOpin

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    Well my black Waidea flask died 10 min ago. I was playing with my new VS DNA 40. and I heard crackling coming from under bed sheets. Lift sheets and the friggin flask is auto firing and smoke is pouring out of the bottoms. It's smells like a blown out speaker in my bed room now. WTF! Won't turn on or nuttin. Board died fried. Oh well I guess I know what I'm doing with that Rayn V4 board out of my sliver flask now. Man first I fried my brand new DNA 40D board, now my stock Waidea followed suit. This sux!
     

    Phone Guy

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    Well my black Waidea flask died 10 min ago. I was playing with my new VS DNA 40. and I heard crackling coming from under bed sheets. Lift sheets and the friggin flask is auto firing and smoke is pouring out of the bottoms. It's smells like a blown out speaker in my bed room now. ***! Won't turn on or nuttin. Board died fried. Oh well I guess I know what I'm doing with that Rayn V4 board out of my sliver flask now. Man first I fried my brand new DNA 40D board, now my stock Waidea followed suit. This sux!
    Dude that sux. I'm so sorry. :(
     
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    AtmizrOpin

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    IMG_20150526_190249-1.jpg IMG_20150526_193700-1.jpg I get this today in the mail after working 12 hours digging up 12 inch thick concrete in a customer's basement for a 're-plumb with 3 inch PVC. All happy to play with it, love it and my Waidea flask got jealous and committed suicide! LOL I ripped the top plate off the black Waidea to see what happened and just like what happened to my silver flask with the DNA 40D board, the atty out wire at the bottom of the 510 pin made contact with the positive battery terminal. I put two layers of electrical tape between it but it wore through.:( And yes, this DNA 40 just started the screen glitch. But it goes away quickly right after soft power down. (I knew this would probably happen Vaporshark even said it could glitch in the terms and conditions. I don't care I love it! This thing is crazy tiny!
     

    AtmizrOpin

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    Oh jeez, sorry! Never heard of auto-fire issues on these chips/mods before. Is it possible the button got manually jammed in or something?

    At least you have a board ready to replace it, though. Is the chassis OK, no damage from the batteries?
    Nope no battery venting or chassis damage. Just brain damage.........oh wait that's me.
     
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    dwcraig1

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    Product Warranty
    Focalecig.com chooses quality products to sell based on their excellent designs and proven hardware reliability. We check all of your orders during the packing stage to make sure that accessories are included.
    We have a strict testing process to ensure that your ordered products are functionally correct before they are packed and sent to you. This is in addition to the normal quality assurance checks that all the goods have passed in the factory line. .

    Please read the following after-sales terms first so as to better under Focalecig warranty:
    1. Non-human causes of product problems, we will be committed to 6 months warranty( Drip tip, atomizers excluded), you need to pay the freight.
    2. 6 months after repair the product, you need to pay the freight and cost of repair.
    If the returned products cannot be repaired due to the serious damage or defects, Focalecig will only send back customers the original defective items.

    3. Do not destroy warranty sticker if you found the item doesn't work right.

    4. Disassemble it are Not acceptable.
    Just in case it came from there and for general info.

    If it is to be sent back to a USA location I would go this route, if it has to be sent back to China, I would have to think on it but I doubt it.
     

    AtmizrOpin

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    Glad you're enjoying the VS! I love that drip tip you have on the Lemo 2 there. At first I thought it was some new tank I'd not seen - the tip really suits it!
    Stock drip tip off my Aspire Nautilus Mini I don't use anymore. The one that came with my lemo2 was too open, too big for me. Smaller inner diameter on the Nautilus DT makes for better flavor IMO. Thanks for noticing.
     

    dwcraig1

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    View attachment 459512 View attachment 459513 I get this today in the mail after working 12 hours digging up 12 inch thick concrete in a customer's basement for a 're-plumb with 3 inch PVC. All happy to play with it, love it and my Waidea flask got jealous and committed suicide! LOL I ripped the top plate off the black Waidea to see what happened and just like what happened to my silver flask with the DNA 40D board, the atty out wire at the bottom of the 510 pin made contact with the positive battery terminal. I put two layers of electrical tape between it but it wore through.:( And yes, this DNA 40 just started the screen glitch. But it goes away quickly right after soft power down. (I knew this would probably happen Vaporshark even said it could glitch in the terms and conditions. I don't care I love it! This thing is crazy tiny!
    I missed this post before I made my last post on warranty.... so it's a genuine VS.....I like having the screen on the bottom.
     
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