Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[garyss]

I have a Kangxin, in red from ft and want to replace the 510. I have removed the top plate and the bottom of the 510 doesn't look like it is normal. There isn't a nut in the normal way but the bottom is about 18 mm and round with the two wires soldered to connections.
Is it removable or will it leave a 14mm hole?

Thanks guys
Gary

 

[Croak]

It will leave the hole. To remove, there's a screw underneath where the ground wire is soldered, you have to remove that or grind it down, then the whole assembly will slide out from the top with a bit of force. You'll need to find a washer sized to fit whatever replacement 510 you want to mount, something with a 10.5-11mm inner diameter. A Fat Daddy 15.5mm V3 Shorty with a washer on the inside, or a Varitube 14mm low profile with a washer on the outside will both fit, giving you just enough (barely) room above the battery connection on that side. Anything longer will not work.

 

[sonicbomb]

I know I don't have the skills to install a FD 510, I suppose my flasks days are numbered. I didn't want a Waida then, and I don't want one now for the same reasons.
Focalcig have a 50W Kangxin for £45, I may nab one of those.

 

[Croak]

On the Waidea, it's dead simple if you can solder (even sloppily), since the FDV V3 is pretty much a drop in.

 

[Unior]

Based on that you have to use NP100 but it won't be terribly accurate (the real value required is a fair bit over 100.)

But are you sure you're getting a -0.06 drop? That's more than anyone else has recorded at those resistance levels. It doesnt normally reach 0.06 until the 0.20 (real) level.

I would say if you're reading 0.08, then the real reading is maybe 0.12, and I would try 0.08->0.10 to account for SR in the atty. which is NP90.

So try between NP90 and NP100, see how you go. Keep an eye on the screen, is your target temperature being reached or at least close to it? If you configure 440F and the mod says it's never at more than 300, then you know the setting is way out and it won't limit temperature. Ditto if TP flashes almost immediately so it limits too fast.

There's a lot of factors at work here so don't be afraid to just try different values. Including varying the target temperature.

Thanks Bloke! So I guess my setting was almost right. Being running a 0.14 that reads 0.10 at 440f with NP set at 95. Since I got home a few minutes ago(left flask at home today) Temp starts out 210f & goes up to 350,360 with a 5-7 second draw at 18w I did have a 0.06 decrease once this morning once. First time it was that low. Will monitor over the next few days.

 

[JAlexander]

ok so more updates:

As i said before my device cut out a few times. I think i found the issue. I took out my second set of 18650s today after work because the power was at about half, strange given the fact i had not much used it. i checked to make sure the batteries were draining evenly. sure enough they were not. one was at 3.7 and the other was at 4.13 volts. i then did some checking to see what was going on in each tube and noticed that they were only sometime making a good connection. The threads did have some of the powder coating (or whatever it is) but they were flush when tighten so i didn't think much about it at first. i cleaned the threads and using a fine point and then checked each tube individually. it seems to be making a much better/full connection in each tube now. I believe this was the cause of the device cutting out and the uneven battery drain. Just a heads up to any of you out there who may have the black device.

 

[dwcraig1]

@Tpat591 Hi, It comes back. "This is a pre-order product. We will ship out in 15~20 business days. A while to wait, we will be the first shop to get this product from factory directly though."

Link?......

 

[dwcraig1]

Maybe I should add food coloring to my juice or change to a clear full tank, I have done it again.
I keep thinking something is wrong with my device because it keeps hitting TP real quick only to find (eventually) that my atty is out of juice...DUH

 

[dwcraig1]

Oh what a piece of cake it would be to make a Squonker Flask from a SXK VF. Top plate comes off far enough for easy access, remove battery positive from bottle side. The only additional parts needed are the FDV v3 bottom feeder pin(s), FDV bottle attachment set and the bottle.

 

[Phone Guy]

The finish may be better, but the chip in the SXK is a whole different ball game. It's slightly tarnished by the low resistance reading, but that can be handled (and hopefully will be fixed in future revisions.)

Spring loaded 510; up to 60W; C temps; Coefficient of Resistance adjustment to use non-Ni200 wires better (or at all) and to do more accurate TC adjusting for atty static resistance; no delay from sleep; working lock; down to 0.06Ω (once the low resistance is fixed)

I can't comment on the black (yet - I may know by next week) and maybe there's more of a finish difference there but the finish on my silver is lovely, really nice feel to it. Good buttons too.

Most significantly, I don't think I've used my Waidea once since I got this. Can't be bothered worrying if an atty is going to be a pain screwing down without the spring 510, so when not using the SXK flask I use the IPV4 or one of my new Kangxin Mini VFs which have the Rayn chip at 50W with spring loaded pin and a flashlight; single battery.

I enjoyed my Waidea, it was a good third mod. But I'd never buy another now. If the SXK black finish turns out to be bad I'd just limit myself to silver.

I respect that. I had heard the silver doesn't have the coating to the same degree as the black, but I can't comment since I've only ever had the black. Plus I never used the chip. I personally look at these as more of vessels for transplants to genuine Evolv DNA40... But that's just me.

I never experienced any issues with the fixed 510 personally, but I did replace with a spring loaded just because I could.

I also think the RAYN v4 board in the waidea worked fine, with its quirks. The end result was an enjoyable vape nonetheless.

But I will agree with you, if the chip in the infinite (sxk) version is less quirky and has benefits, then it's going to be a good deal for anyone considering a flask clone.

As for me personally, after spending $65 for the flask, retail on the dna40 is $60, plus the expense for a fdv 510 spring loaded connector, and still having the small screen, and if what I read was true and accurate about Vaporshark buying or teaming with Vaporflask, and they are going to release a new flask with large screen, and a few additions, at $100 less than the current flask, so I'm guessing around $200'ish... For guys like me who want to retrofit chips, the savings are not there... Maybe $50? But with the authentic you gain the "authentic" part, warranty of some kind, and most importantly large screen. I'm sure I'm the minority... I'd have to think most people buy the clones and vape happily on them without retrofitting new chips to them.

Either way, it was a great find bloke!

 

[Phone Guy]

Maybe too early to tell for sure but it appears I'm turning into an Evolv fanboy...LOL

I have been for a long time. Bought a genuine sx mini to play and while the end result is the same (vapor), I like the different screen but the interface on the yihi chip is funky. Too many steps to simply adjust power setting. I look forward to Evolv next chip, IMHO they are one of the only companies actually being "game changers". Their ideas, design, and concepts are the only ones always being cloned repeatedly.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

I have been for a long time. Bought a genuine sx mini to play and while the end result is the same (vapor), I like the different screen but the interface on the yihi chip is funky. Too many steps to simply adjust power setting. I look forward to Evolv next chip, IMHO they are one of the only companies actually being "game changers". Their ideas, design, and concepts are the only ones always being cloned repeatedly.

One more thing to add about evolv is the their customer service, at least with my experiences. They have always been willing to help me out whether the problem was caused by me or not. I'm wondering if the new VF is going to be a little larger to fit the large screen in it.

 

[TheBloke]

something else i noticed today:

when i first put in my battery the screen comes on and says

ELOVE DNA 40

has anyone else seen this?

it has shut off one more time on me. not really sure what is happening. i gave it a smack and the love message came back up. any ideas?

This is the normal startup message, you see it only when batteries are first added to the mod. Normally one doesn't see it because one tends to hold the mod facing down while putting in batteries, and by the time you've done up the caps and turned it over, it's booted and isn't showing the message.

You've since worked out the problem it seems - you were seeing this message due to poor battery connections which you fixed with clearing out gunk on the tubes/threads.

I think you're the first person we've seen (on this thread/forum) with the black. That clearing of the tubes/threads was something we often had to do with the Kangxin/Waidea flasks but didn't know about re the SXK. Seems it's the same deal there, so thanks for confirming.

It's a shame that it's necessary, but not surprising when one pays $58 for a VF Some manual work will be needed. Well unless you buy the silver

There is no earth wire to top plate I believe

Wheres @TheBloke when you need him

The fix is a light sand of under side of top plate and case mating service

Nice to be wanted However I do not believe the issue described by @Almighty is related to poor ground. The symptoms of poor ground are: saying low battery when it's clearly not low (usually, but not exclusively, while firing); firing but putting out less wattage than it says it is; randomly turning off/not turning on.

Actually the more I think about it the more the issues described by @Almighty are pretty weird:

2 ppls on fasttech posted the same problem with their 60w flasks they just received, heres what they wrote

1. Hmmm.... mine arrived today. Otherwise everything seems to be in order, but the mod won't recognise the resistance of the atty. Just keeps showing 0.0 ohms and when I try to fire it says 'Low Res'. Have tried with several tanks but no change. The mechanical contact seems to be there with the center pin.

Did I just receive a piece of s**t that I need to return or is there something that I can do about this?

2. Hmmmm, got mine today and got the same problem, even mine is the black. Any atty I screw on it is read at 0.0 ohms and vf won't fire... Did you solve this problem? I've already opened a Ticket :-(

This is really odd. I joked higher up about "maybe it's reading the resistance -1.0Ω now!" but this may actually be close to the truth. Not -1.0 of course, but a significant amount.

Because it's clearly reading the atty for these people - it's not saying No Atomizer. So it's reading an atty, it's letting them fire, but it's reading 0.00Ω and saying Low Res.

This does not sound like a wiring/physical problem. It sounds like a worsening of the known resistance/chip problem - to an extreme degree in certain cases.

EDIT: Actually thanks to @Quantum Mech 's comment I just realised it could be wiring - it could be an internal short on the mod's 510 connection.

Edit: three possibilities:
1. They both mistakenly put in a build of 0.04Ω - 0.05Ω (lower than spec) and the usual low reading shows it as 0.00Ω
2. They both put in a build that's within spec (0.06Ω +) and the drop in resistance is showing as even worse for them - at least -0.06Ω potentially much more.
3. There's an internals short on their mod 510 connection. It reads all resistances as, maybe, 0.02Ω, but this gets turned into 0.00Ω by the usual low resistance problem.

I will find those posts and reply to ask them what they did. Thanks @Almighty for the heads up (you're just reporting on others' problems, you don't have this issue yourself - right?)

 

[Almighty]

This is the normal startup message, you see it only when batteries are first added to the mod. Normally one doesn't see it because one tends to hold the mod facing down while putting in batteries, and by the time you've done up the caps and turned it over, it's booted and isn't showing the message.

You've since worked out the problem it seems - you were seeing this message due to poor battery connections which you fixed with clearing out gunk on the tubes/threads.

I think you're the first person we've seen (on this thread/forum) with the black. That clearing of the tubes/threads was something we often had to do with the Kangxin/Waidea flasks but didn't know about re the SXK. Seems it's the same deal there, so thanks for confirming.

It's a shame that it's necessary, but not surprising when one pays $58 for a VF Some manual work will be needed. Well unless you buy the silver



Nice to be wanted However I do not believe the issue described by @Almighty is related to poor ground. The symptoms of poor ground are: saying low battery when it's clearly not low (usually, but not exclusively, while firing); firing but putting out less wattage than it says it is; randomly turning off/not turning on.

Actually the more I think about it the more the issues described by @Almighty are pretty weird:



This is really odd. I joked higher up about "maybe it's reading the resistance -1.0Ω now!" but this may actually be close to the truth. Not -1.0 of course, but a significant amount.

Because it's clearly reading the atty for these people - it's not saying No Atomizer. So it's reading an atty, it's letting them fire, but it's reading 0.00Ω and saying Low Res.

This does not sound like a wiring/physical problem. It sounds like a worsening of the known resistance/chip problem - to an extreme degree in certain cases.

Two possibilities:
1. They both mistakenly put in a build of 0.04Ω - 0.05Ω (lower than spec) and the usual low reading shows it as 0.00Ω
2. They both put in a build that's within spec (0.06Ω +) and the drop in resistance is showing as even worse for them - at least -0.06Ω potentially much more.

I will find those posts and reply to ask them what they did. Thanks @Almighty for the heads up (you're just reporting on others' problems, you don't have this issue yourself - right?)

havent received mine yet ( 50w silver )

 

[TheBloke]

OK I replied on the FT thread (thanks @Tpat591 for collecting the links) to ask for more details from these 0.00Ω Low Res people. Thanks for the cross post @Almighty

I also linked them here and suggested they join if poss.

 

[Quantum Mech]

Two possibilities:
1. They both mistakenly put in a build of 0.04Ω - 0.05Ω (lower than spec) and the usual low reading shows it as 0.00Ω
2. They both put in a build that's within spec (0.06Ω +) and the drop in resistance is showing as even worse for them - at least -0.06Ω potentially much more.

I will find those posts and reply to ask them what they did. Thanks @Almighty for the heads up (you're just reporting on others' problems, you don't have this issue yourself - right?)

Possibly a third too, its early & just opened me eyes so may have missed it

The atty , some show low ohms from the off

I know the Kayfun v4 has had issues for some in particular .... that's why have ordered one

Along with some upgrades to see if I can crack it

Steam Tuners spring upgrade [but will launch the spring] & S4 kit

 

[TheBloke]

Possibly a third too, its early & just opened me eyes so may have missed it

The atty , some show low ohms from the off

I know the Kayfun v4 has had issues for some in particular .... that's why have ordered one

Along with some upgrades to see if I can crack it

Steam Tuners spring upgrade [but will launch the spring] & S4 kit

The atty shows low ohms? Could you elaborate?

I hadn't thought that was possible. I've been thinking about this a bit, like when I first got the SXK and saw low ohms, my first thought was "chip or wiring?"

But then I settled on the idea that low res must be the chip, at least when only a bit too low. Poor wiring/bad connections can add resistance - it can make the resistance worse - but how does it reduce the resistance?

Well, one case - when it has a short. But if the atty itself has a short that means either it's bypassing the coil entirely - and resistance would be nearly 0.00Ω - or that it's touching a later part of the coil which surely would be noticed? In any case, that would be spotted on all ohm readers.

Could you explain what you mean about the KF4 showing low resistance? I know it can show high and variable resistance - it's known to have relatively high Static Resistance, and this can be made much worse eg with the juice control, or without the Spring Update. But I've not heard of it being low?

But now you mention it, actually I suppose I was wrong to say the issues those guys have couldn't be wiring. It could be wiring on the 510, they could have an internal short which would read all resistance at a fixed amount -maybe 0.02Ω which then gets turned into 0.00Ω by the usual low resistance reading problem.

But then I would think it would do that also with no atomizer in at all - it should always saw Low Res when they press fire, because with an internal short it should always think there's an atomizer present?

I have asked them about that.

 

[dwcraig1]

Since I'm probably the only one that uses the on-board charger of the SXK flask I wish to inform all that the "finished" indicator light is blue.

 

[Quantum Mech]

The atty shows low ohms? Could you elaborate?

.

Ooops I did say had just opened my eyes

That would be in reverse as you know .... higher resistance

You would not think electro mechanical engineering is my trade

Edit : Although have read about the K4 & Squape R showing low ohms intermittently, I presume by shorting

 

[TheBloke]

Since I'm probably the only one that uses the on-board charger of the SXK flask I wish to inform all that the "finished" indicator light is blue.

Thanks! I keep meaning to try it out and keep forgetting. Don't suppose you timed how long it took to recharge?

Ooops I did say had just opened my eyes

That would be in reverse as you know .... higher resistance

You would not think electro mechanical engineering is my trade

Edit : Although have read about the K4 & Squape R showing low ohms intermittently, I presume by shorting

Fair enough!